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Found 113 results

  1. Hello All, Hopefully relevant to someone here: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 173715476628 Before listing, I had no idea these were desirable or rare. Any info appreciated as to "why" if anyone happens to know. Also selling an Atari 1040STf (eBay Auction -- Item Number: 173715477837) and a Commodore 64C (eBay Auction -- Item Number: 173715479035). Regards
  2. Hi, I loved Battlezone when it came out in the 1980s. I just discovered yesterday I could play it online via my PC. I have to use the arrow keys and space bar to aim and fire. I'm looking for a joystick with a usb that I could use. Any suggestions on joystick/controller that will work, and where to buy it? Thanks, Chris P.S. I can't wait to get higher scores using a joystick.
  3. This thread is about how I went about getting controllers to work with the Atari800Win emulator. My first problem is that three of my four notebooks have broken down (after repeated repairs, both professional and DIY) and therefore I'm running my emulator on an HP Mini, a small notebook computer. This presents some various obstacles, of which I will explain. Like most people who first begin to use emulators, I had no controllers to use with the emulator and was therefore using the keyboard to play the games. The first problem I encountered was that being that I was using a mini laptop and did not have a full sized keyboard. With no number pad or NumLock key this was a drawback. Needless to say, I quickly had a desire to use a real controller rather than arrow keys, etc. for my gameplay. I did my research and read up on how to use a joystick/controller with Atari800Win. The results were disappointing. It seemed, from what I'd read, that I needed special controllers or adapters, designed to be plugged into either the printer port or the game port, neither of which I had on my laptop. Darn! Frustrated, I decided to hold off on playing the Atari800 games and wanted to revisit some of my old Super Nintendo favorites. So I downloaded and installed ZSNES and a few roms. It quickly became apparent that my lack of a controller was now even more detrimental to gameplay because of the many more buttons on the SNES controller versus the original Atari controller. Since the only available place my computer had to plug in a controller was a USB port, logically I began to read up about use of USB controllers with emulators. After looking at the various classic USB gaming controllers available on Ebay, and watching some reviews on YouTube, I settled on the SNES USB Controller made by Tomee. I went ahead and ordered two of them. They were very well made, the price was quite reasonable. The convenience of Plug and Play made using them with the ZSNES emulator quite easy. I simply went to the emulator's menu and clicked Config>Input>Input Device #1, and began to assign the D-Pad and buttons. It worked perfectly! Then I went back and tried to get these controllers to work on the Atari800Win emulator. Not quite as easy initially but I did get it figured out. Do the following steps: Step 1) Plug in one or both USB retro gaming controllers. NOTE: My laptop computer has two USB ports on one side and one on the other. When I had both controllers plugged in on the right hand side the emulator would NOT recognize both controllers. When I moved one to the left side (i.e. one plugged in on the left and one on the right) then it DID recognize them both. Step 2) Click the following: Input>Joysticks, the Joystick Options dialog box will popup. For Joystick 1 select "2Axes 11Keys Game Pad". If a second controller is desired, then for Joystick 2 Select the other 2Axes 11Keys Game Pad (there should be two) from the drop down menu. Remember, if the two controllers are plugged in next to each other then the emulator may not "see" them both. If using a desktop computer perhaps plug one on the front USB port and one in the rear etc. Step 3) Recommended: In the Joystick Options dialog box click Advanced. The "Advanced Options" dialog box will popup. Then make sure "Do not toggle options using joystick buttons" is checked. This will allow full use of the controller's D-Pad and ANY other button on the controller may be used as the fire button. Step 4) Play! I hope that this will be of some help for people who are having difficulty getting their controllers to work for the Atari800Win emulator.
  4. I am ready to take sales for the 7800 Prosystem Joystick. I have parts on hand to assemble 11. Orders after the initial 11 will be pre-orders for the next batch and will take 3-4 weeks to be ready. Hopefully sooner. A lot of the people that expressed interested did so before I had the final design and price so I am not sticking to that list. Plus another competitor showed up. I am asking that you send me a PM to order. Hopefully this works out ok and doesn't upset anybody. I shouldn't have a problem filling all orders in a reasonable amount of time. I also answer emails and don't plan to disappear. The joystick is wired like the 7800 Proline joystick. So it has the same system compatibility. Atari 2600, XE, etc. Features: Aluminum Case Leaf-switch buttons Modified Sanwa JLF 8-way joystick with circle restrictor, silent switches, heavy spring Aluminum ball top Polycarbonate laminated overlay 9 foot replaceable cord I have spent the weekend playing a variety of games with this joystick and I love it. To me this joystick is the right size, weight, and has the correct feel for these games. Pac Man will never be as good as playing it with the original midway joystick but this is pretty good. I didn't feel cheated while playing it. I was skeptical of the Sanwa verses a real leaf switch joystick, but with the mods to it this joystick is fantastic. Overlay: The overlay turned out really good. I ended up making the silver band darker than the original 7800. CMYK printing just doesn't do silver very good. The first proof was lighter but wasn't sharp. Making it a little darker turned out a lot better. How to Order: Send me a PM and let me know which side you want the joystick on. Also give me your email and shipping address. Price is $200 plus shipping. Priority Mail $17.00. International shipping is fine just ask for a price. Feel free to ask questions. Thanks!
  5. Anyone use these RETRO2600 brand replacement joysticks? I need a couple sticks for my system, and saw these on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/p/Joystick-Controller-Pad-for-Atari-2600-System-Joy-Stick/1229344204
  6. Just got my Harmony cartridge and it's great. But, have an odd problem. With my Sears video arcade II joysticks on the menu it always defaults to the paddles even if I have the button on the console set to joystick. also, the button does not work when not in the menu. No big problem as I hardly ever use the SVA II joysticks but use power player joystick. Still, something to point out to see if anyone else has ever had the same problem and maybe Fred can address in some future BIOS update.
  7. Been using the Retrobit 9pin-usb adapter for joysticks. Works a treat with emulators and my old wico stick for when I had the real computers. Thought I'd share with all. RT
  8. Hey everyone. I'm trying to get a general idea as to what joystick is great for the 2600. Any ideas? Thoughts?
  9. Hi, I had this joystick ever since I got my atari 2600 jr. off of ebay and I've been wondering if this joystick is a rarity. From what I can gather, the joystick is called the "Microblaster" and it's made by a company called "Replay". It has micro switches in it and it has a rapid fire switch on the bottom of it. I've tried multiple times to find another one of theses off of ebay but came up empty. Hopefully someone will know more about this thing then I do.
  10. OK, Here's my first try at adding images to a post, so hopefully it works. The first photo shows the "Prototype" coupler I built for playing Robotron using 2 2600 joysticks. It's made of layered plywood, 25x5x2 inches with 12 inches between the joysticks and weighs around 2 pounds. The joysticks are removable. They have 2x2 inch velcro squares under each of them and the joysticks fit securely in the holes even without the velcro. It has 2 holes in the front edge to allow the cords to come through along with a nylon carrying handle in the front and 4 non-slip feet on the bottom. I added a chrome strip between the two joysticks, just to break up the all black look and to better fit with the 7800 console. My score on Robotron tripled the first time I used this thing! The next photo shows a couple of custom controls I did for the 7800. The gamepad is a modded NES controller, with a small ball-top joystick added to the directional pad, and the start and select buttons removed. I also did a quick and dirty paint job, along with a new overlay and Atari logo, just as a test mostly. My masking tape failed around the logo, so the edges there look really bad. It was the first one I made before I started selling them, so I still like it. The 7800 proline in the photo has a shortened throw, by cutting down the joystick and the original knob and adding a rubber buffer to keep the joystick from being forced too far in any direction. I'll add more photos as I finish the other projects I have in the works.
  11. finally i'm having one of my SG1000/MSX1 Boriel’s ZX-Basic examples working on ColecoVision The problem is that i don’t know why the joystick (accessed from i/o) is not working as expected (i don’t want to use the bios routines since i think it wastes that precious ram area, and i’m still not comfortable enough with that), and i can’t use halt as waitvbl (i think that there should be some code related to nmi there?) about the joystick, perhaps i should use di and ei before and after accessing the joystick from i/o? or is it something else? the sources (in Boriel’s ZX-Basic, and the intermediary .asm for debuging) and the resulting .rom file is there
  12. So what's your favorite item that came packaged in with a video game? Is it the 2600 Omega Race Booster Grip or maybe the Coleco Roller Controller with Slither? Maybe you liked the mouse that came packed in with Mario Paint or the Rumble Pack you first got with Starfox 64. . . or coud it be that you liked the Reel Fishing fake fishing reel? Can you honestly say you weren't tempted to buy a Saturn when you noticed that Virtua Cop came out packaged with the Stunner? I spent quite a bit of time researching the great pack-ins of video gaming, and here are the ones I'm convinced are in the top eschelon: http://n4g.com/news/....ed-with-a-game What are your top 5?
  13. Not my video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zd3GD2NO3dI I searched the forums and couldn't find anything. I must be getting senile in my old age - I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to pair the joysticks to the FB9 Gold via Bluetooth until I found the video. The Bluetooth pairing insert in the package was barely readable and confusing. (Off-topic) At least they included an HDMI cable in the box. Edit: Apologies to Bill Loguidice for the negative comment regarding AtGames. It was not meant to offend (admittedly it was not in good taste) but to comment on how the clarity of the instructions could have been improved. I have removed the offending remark.
  14. I have a Joystick controller that came from an Atari Flashback console (Flashback 2 I believe) that has worked fine until recently. All of a sudden the right direction stopped working. I took it apart and re-soldered the wire for the right direction, but nothing changed. At first it went up when I pressed it to the right, but that was only due to a sloppy soldering job (the solder was connecting the right and up directions). After fixing this, the problem was not fixed. Would it be a problem with the controller's connection to the console? If anyone has any advice I appreciate it.
  15. Just wanted to share here today that I've managed to find the best method for getting a mouse working on quite a few 5200 games- 1 and 2 button 5200 games. Here's what you need: 1) A Masterplay Clone that doesn't only make Atari joysticks compatible with the 5200 but has 2-button game compatibility designed to get Sega Genesis controllers working (mine was the 2016 model made by Atariage member, Atariguy1021) 2) A Commodore 64 mouse (model 1351) 3) a 9 pin splitter cable (1 female end to 2 male ends) and a Sega Genesis controller- this is only necessary if you're wanting to play the 2 button games. The setup is explained in my latest presentation which includes a lot of gameplay footage:
  16. Other than my main Atari 7800 console, the other (retro) console that gets a workout in my household is the Intellivision. I've always found the controls frustrating, especially the disc. Since I have two systems, I can actually compare what they are supposed to be like since one seems to have the controls working properly. The unit that's a bit more beat up cosmetically is the one that seems to function better. So I'd like to get the main unit we use working in the same way. I searched for replacement controllers, considering building my own out of arcade parts, and even debated about swapping the controllers. In the end I came across RWAP's replacement membranes. Interesting enough, I found the original thread here at AA after purchasing them. I have an Intellivision I, made in Hong Kong circa 1979 so I figured perhaps over the years the component degraded and worthwhile doing the replacement. I ordered mine and about a week or so they arrived from the UK. May have arrived sooner but with Covid-19 I wasn't really going to the mailbox every day. The pair of membranes look in pristine condition and pretty much identical keypad buttons. Here we are in 2020 and one can get amazing parts for an old system. Having done replacements in various Atari controllers, the Intellivision version takes more patience and I personally found it tricky. Unscrewing the controllers shows the simple (non-)mechanical nature of this controller. The trick to get these out is to slide the side buttons up. The 5 layers should come off easily. My circuit boards said REV E 1 and 2 for each of the controllers. The Replacement Process Open the controller by removing the four screws Once open take out the disk and the spring. Keep track of the plastic thin disc that goes between the two controller layers. Slide up the two side buttons. Pull out the entire plastic circuits. Nothing should be attacked or glued to the controller. I suggest you make a note of the order. The replacement pieces come gently pre-folded. On the two shorter keypad pieces do a proper fold on the two sides. The better you fold it, the nicer it will sit snugly on the controller. On my controller, the attached foam pad ended up being too thick. I used the replacement pad provided. Peel the thicker pad gently. Fold the longer membrane with the clear piece sitting in between. DO NOT fold it too much or you may break the circuit lines, fold in the clear sections to keep its shape. No that the disc contacts are set lower than the keyboard, so you will need to. There should be two plastic pins above and below the keyboard that allow you to guide the mylar replacements and provide alignment. The tricky part will be to replace it. Align the longer parts focusing on the keypad section. Place the two smaller keypad pieces above it. Push the two side button sections in and put the buttons back in. You may need to push the sides in a bit more although I found the action of putting the buttons back helped. Make sure the disc section sits centrally. Place the white disk between the clear and the bottom layer. Place the spring and the plastic disc controller over the circuit. Screw the controller case back in. I should note that the first time I installed it, I skipped the plastic thin disc and nothing worked properly. That's when I also noticed the bulge due to the thicker pad. Layer Order The layer with the circuit contacts with the foam attachment goes to the very bottom, while the gold keypad will be the top layer. The transparent long piece will go in between the two longer circuit membranes. Observations It's a tricky set-up and takes patience. Before this I never bothered to see how the internals of the Intellivision worked. It's great that RWAP included the thinner variety of the foam pad. For Snafu or Space Armada, I can notice the difference. For Pac-Man and Lock'n'Chase it's pretty much the same, so I'm guessing it's the game or my skill. I will probably order another pair just to have the parts. I'd love to find replacement brand-new side buttons or disc just to spruce things up a bit. Overall I'm very happy with the replacement part.
  17. New MiniVex controller for Atari 2600 / VCS combines a joystick, paddle, and driving controller all in one unit! Up until now, MiniVex controllers were made for the Vectrex (with the exception of the MiniVex Pedal I, which is compatible with both Vectrex and Atari) but this one is strictly Atari compatible. Compact size fits right in your hand, see second photo for size comparison. ONE cord and ONE plug, you can play your favorite games, one after the other, without having to unplug and plug in all the different controllers. Case is made of tough steel, has a weighty feel to it. Two toggle switches on the back. One selects joystick or paddle function, and the other toggles between paddle "A" and paddle "B." The black button on the back enables and disables the driving controller. Two buttons for your convenience, no matter if you're left or right handed. Either button can be used with any of the three controllers. Driving controller on the left, paddle on the right. Joystick in the center has the feel of an analog stick but functions like a digital one. All new parts used in the making, so there'll be no jittering during Breakout or Indy 500. This and other MiniVex controllers are hand-made by me, so they aren't cosmetically perfect. They do come with a 30-day repair guarantee. A handful of these will be auctioned on eBay during the next few weeks, as they get made. The hand-making process is slow, and how many will ultimately be made remains up in the air at this point. Please see this and my other eBay listings under seller name "classicgamesandcarsfan." Larry
  18. Good afternoon Atari friends hope everyone had a great turkey day! Several months ago I delved into the Atari 7800 world and I love this thing. Except for the Pain-Line controllers, I bought 4 of them, One almost new. None were very responsive and very hard to use. I think everyone could go on and on about these controllers and very few people actually like them. I love the "look" and that's about it. Thus, begins my journey... First I did the simple NES controller MOD. LOVE IT. You don't have to "think" about using the controller, It just feels natural. I figured, what the hell, I'll get some CX78s from best... $40!? Eek but worth it for the hardcore Atari collector. also, do not look on ebay for these things unless you want to pay $70+... insane. New old stock, they are nice but button placement is strange and the D-pad does not feel as natural as the NES Controller. I still went back to the NES controller... I found "new" SNES aftermarket controllers in my controller bin and thought, why not, and modded it to work with the 7800. utilizing every button. L & R bumpers all 4 buttons and start and select. The left bumper and the left buttons and select are all FIRE1 and the rest are FIRE2. This was a nightmare to mod, took too much time as I was also trying to wrap my head around the 7800 controller circuit. It works great, but too many buttons. Almost too confusing to play with. So I decided to make my own controller. Osgeld was kind enough to offer some guidance AND his controller plans, which were just to complicated for me to reproduce. I set off on learning some PCB creation software. I'm a hardware guy, so learning new software is a pain. 3 programs later I landed on a freeish program called Diptrace. I designed the PCB within this program and boy was I in for a treat. I have a hobbyists knowledge of circuits and CAD programs, in layman I knew nothing. I had to create this layout twice the first being a cleaner design but the files did not save properly. I rushed to get the second design printed and almost screwed up royally. SOLDER MASK GOES WHERE YOU DON'T WANT SOLDER MASK SOLDER MASK GOES WHERE YOU DON'T WANT SOLDER MASK SOLDER MASK GOES WHERE YOU DON'T WANT SOLDER MASK SOLDER MASK GOES WHERE YOU DON'T WANT SOLDER MASK so when you layout solder mask you have to put it in areas you do not want solder mask not where you WANT the solder mask... are you following? I didn't follow. I put it where I WANTED mask. This would have covered all my button contacts with solder mask making some expensive beer coasters. In the PCB world that is wrong, but I caught this RIGHT before I sent them In to print. Its all an acceptable learning process, this is an ultra simple PCB design and makes me appreciate real creators like Bryan and his UAV and Curt with the XM. After weeks of back a fouth with chinese suppliers I found a resonable place for black NES controller shells. I ordered the DB9 cables and PCBs and I'm off with a rolling start. I still would like to print custom labels for the controller but it was not cost effective ATM. Maybe If I ordered large bulk (100+) I could get costs down. This design is from a forum member as well but I cannot for the life of me find that post and would love to give credit where its due, but I also am not using this on this run. But this first run is just the prototype phase, which will always be more expensive. R&D is never cheap! What do ya'll think? Am I on the right path, or should I stop while I'm ahead?
  19. Although I probably would not want to marry her- my love for Carol Shaw runs deep. River Raid was one of the first games that got me "into the zone" whilst playing. So I took the chance and had myself a joystick made by a fine german guy here named David L. You can look him up @ http://www.norths.de/ Ergonomically it's far from a 10/10, but apart from that it plays very fine, and I mean- look at it, right?! Just wanted to share some 2600 love across the pond. Hope you and your loved ones are healthy. All the best for 2021, Nick
  20. Let me preface this by saying that this is my first time on AtariAge and frankly, I'm a kid who has no idea what he's doing- But that's why I'm here! Also apologies if this isn't the right place for this post. Let me know if I should repost in another place. It's my Dad's birthday soon and he's always dreamed of being able to play Robotron 2084 with arcade joysticks again. I'm trying to find the easiest and cheapest way to get him that experience again. I have Midway Arcade Treasures on Gamecube, but the Gamecube controller joysticks don't do the trick for him. I also am in no position to spend thousands of dollars on a cabinet or buy parts and learn to make one. I wish there were a console/emulator(?) I could buy that I could connect via HDMI into a TV, and a dual joystick setup that I could plug into it. What's the easiest way to play Robotron 2084 with classic arcade joysticks? Thank you all in advance. Apologies again for my ignorance of any of this. I've tried doing some research on my own, but it's been more complicated than I expected.
  21. There's now a way to use the X-Arcade Tankstick trackball on your 7800 to play some specific games that really can be extra fun with that kind of controller. The games I have in mind are Alien Brigade, Centipede, Crossbow, Crack'd, Commando, Dark Chambers, and Xevious. I've spent some time figuring out what adapters are necessary to accomplish this, and even included info on using other PC compatible controllers like my custom Tron 80's Arcade multicontroller with the 7800. Check it out:
  22. Hi, I have an Atari 5200, but need more ways to use joysticks/controllers than just the refurbished orginal ones. I wonder if someone here sells/makes connections/adaptors/cables to make PC 15 pin joysticks or say Sega Master/Genesis controller on the Atari 5200. Regards,
  23. I just did a very quick search and didn't find a picture of this so I thought I would post it. It's from a 1984 Montgomery Ward Christmas Catalog (page 535). It may just be the picture, but this controller does seem to look a little different than the standard Proline controller from the 7800. This version appears to be designed for the Atari 2600 (most likely the same as the 7800 proline I assume). Anyway here's the full catalog page:
  24. I have done some brainstorming for a YouTube video that has to do with classic video game controllers that people pay over $100 for. In the end, I'm thinking people don't pay that kind of money for 2600 controllers... but could I be wrong? I know there's a Wico that has an extra large base that people look for. Do you think that one would fetch more than $100? Here's the link to the video if you're interested:
  25. Greetings, I downloaded Atari800MacX. I then downloaded the ROMs. I can use BASIC and play some .atr games using keyboard. Bought a retrolink joystick. Having trouble making that work. Played around with USB Overdrive and Joystick Mapper, but not having much luck. Any advice? Thanks.
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