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Showing results for tags 'power supply'.
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I am looking for an acoustic coupler power supply for the Atari 830 Modem, the TRS80 Interface II Modem, Cat Novation model CAT Novation 490190 modem, or TI-99/4A Phone Modem (part 490267-4). Note I am only looking for a single power supply, all of the listed modems are the same product with cases custom designed for various computer manufacturers. Preference would be for the Ti-99/4A branded modem power supply, or the Cat Novation part #901017 (this was the manufacturer of all of these variants) . Considering that this item no longer suits any real world purpose, I am looking in the $12-$15 US price range max. TIA
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I have decided, to reduce the number of adaptors I need, to buy an NTSC tv for NTSC consoles. I have a question though, would I need to buy a transformer? What is the difference between US and UK voltage? Thank you for any help.
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So what switch accessories are you snapping up? So far I purchased: -Insignia Carrying case-space for the Switch and 6 game cards, accessories -Tempered glass screen protector-2 pack- The switch screen is plastic and scratches easily, this was a quick order Tried to purchase -Pro controller-still can't find one locally Interested in Purchasing -A second dock-for my upstairs TV, may just have to get off the Nintendo website soon -Larger carrying case, with room for dock, cables, and a pro controller-for hooking up to friends and families TV and such -Charging grip and second set of joycons-but finding it hard to justify the $110 pricetag of that combo (sort of ridiculous really) -Some sort of stand for the switch, as it seems rather obvious at this point that the built in kick stand is flimsy and useless -I heard rumors of arcade sticks being released...and with SSFII coming out this might be interesting What accessories did you get or are you looking forward to?
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Since I don't know what Atari system it was for, I will post it here. When I bought my 7800 power supply today, the same shop had another Atari power supply sitting right by it. It wasn't overly much bigger than the regular 2600 power supply, but it had a barrel plug on it, so definitely not 2600. The back said it was rated at 10VAC output, 9W, 750ma (Might not be exact there, but it was close to that). The employee thought it was from an Atari flashback, but the design and the fact it said 'Made in USA' on it ruled that out. Any idea what Atari system it was made for?
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Probably a very newbish question, What is the difference between the 9900, 9500, 95000, etc. TI-99 power bricks? I've heard that both the TI-99/4's and the TI-99/4a's have the same model number yet different voltages, yet there seem to be many model numbers, and I've heard that some with the same model number have different voltages. My 9500 and my 95000 seem to have different voltages on pins 2 and 4 so I was wondering which ones are safer to use on the 99/4a. Thanks!
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I finally got a chance to open up the 1400XL I found at a garage sale. I'm planning to build a power cable for it that will connect to a PC power supply. I used Jerzy Sobola's 1400XL schematic as a guide: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/244786-1400xl-on-ebay/page-5 I checked each pin of the power jack against known test points on the board. However, the result seems different than what's on the schematic or what I've seen on the power supply pictures elsewhere in the forum. Here's what I'm getting: -5V and +12V appear to be switched on my board from what I've seen elsewhere. I tested my board by checking continuity between +12V on the jack and one end of R140. I also verified that -5V was connected to the other pole of the power switch from +5V. Finally, I verified +5V as connected to the power LED. Am I missing something here? This is one of those things you want to get right on the first try Here's a pic of the board in case that helps:
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I was recently working on my Atari 400 with the case off, trying to fix some issues. When I tested the machine, without thinking, I used a screwdriver to close the interlock switch for the cartridge door. In the process the screwdriver made contact with the heatsink for the voltage regulator. It made some strange noises and I smelled the faintest trace of smoke. The screwdriver was not in contact with the heatsink for any more than one second, and the Atari appears to be in fully working condition after reassembly. Is it possible that I could have damaged something, and do I need to replace the internal power board?
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While going through a box of Atari stuff I got back in the day, I found this homebuilt power supply: I made a quick schematic drawing; the only component I couldn't get a good view of was the small electrolytic capacitor across the output. I'm guessing it's around 10 or 20uF. Does anyone recognize this design (e.g. did it appear in a magazine or other publication)? Any thoughts on its quality? Based on the schematics I've seen of the "official" power supplies, this one seems simple in comparison—only 7 components! I'm a little short on good XL/XE power supplies. Assuming that the components are still good and I get 5V at the output, would this be a reliable supply to use?
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Hi all! So much great info here in the 5200 section. I've been learning so much, but I've just hit a hitch that has me confused and concerned. I recently got a 4-port model, and after an initial hiccup with a bad chip in the switchbox, have been playing it like crazy. I replaced the chip after getting it, and once I did, everything worked perfectly, or at least, as I read it should be functioning. Today, something started feeling "off" about my setup, specifically around the 5200. Here's what's up. Symptoms: - I had a 7800 routed "through" the switchbox as well (as though it were the TV antenna). For the past few weeks, if I left the 7800 on, I could turn the 5200 on and off to "switch between the two", like it was supposed to do. , - As of today, this changed, though the static on the CRT tv is "dark" on that input, almost solid black. When I plug a game in (while the console is off), it brightens and audible static kicks in. This is new. Until yesterday it was standard static when the console was off. - When the console is off, and no game inserted, the power LED remains on but very dim. Once a game is inserted, the LED goes out completely. - I flipped the switch on the switchbox between "normal" and "standby" to see if that was what was up. I can see the "antenna input" in standby, but can't get the switchbox to automatically switch between the two in "normal" mode. Turning on the 5200 will not override the "antenna" input in "normal" mode. - The "click" I'd been hearing from the fixed switchbox isn't happening now. I figure that's a bad sign. - I opened up the switchbox again today, and replaced the chip once more (because I socketed last time), wondering if some other component might have blown the chip and if a fresh one could solve the problem, but the "fresh" chip resulted in the same behavior as the one that's been in there a month. So: - won't switch between inputs automatically - stopped "clicking" - LED will remain on, but dimmer, when "off", until a game is inserted, then it goes out. Diagnosis? Do these symptoms indicate any specific disease? Since most problems with the switchbox seem to be with that chip based on my reading, and a new chip didn't change a thing, I don't know what part of that switchbox could be causing problems. My theory is that maybe the power supply itself (from the wall, with the box, that feeds into the switchbox) could be the culprit? I haven't learned how to test that yet, and don't know what type of components might remain in that box and hold a charge. Can anyone offer suggestions? I unplugged everything when this occurred to me. I'm going to replace the power strip these were plugged into (and probably upgrade to a nicer one as well, just to be safe). I'm freaked and don't want to fry the thing. I promise I'm trying to learn all I can about electronics, and even bought a nice new multimeter, but I'm a beginner, and sort of a "solder-by-numbers" type of heat gun jockey. So if you have any ideas, "basic" might suit me better. And I didn't wanna go stabbing around with a multimeter without knowing what I might be looking for. I'll probably open up the console tomorrow and make sure nothing around the power input looks blown. Despite the behavior that's making me uneasy, it DOES fire up games just fine, and plays without glitches as well. I'm just worried something might be juicing it wrong in a way I can't notice and I don't want any invisible damage. My biggest concern I guess is that it's getting TOO MUCH power, and I know that's no good. I've recently become completely addicted to my 5200. My modest stack of 5200 games has already left the rest of my systems collecting dust. Can anyone help? Please? [NOTE: I do not plan on modding this console unless I absolutely have to. I often like keeping things as "stock" as possible, it's just my thing. So while I appreciate suggestions to do so, they're not what I'm looking for right now.]
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INTRODUCTION: Not everyone knows that ALL of the Power Supplies built back in the day - including original ones - were unregulated AC/DC Adapters. Which means that the outputted voltage was not stabilized. As a result the poor Atari 2600 was continuously feeded with a voltage fluctuating between 9.8 and 10.40V. Not only - The provided current was spikey and badly filtered, which stressed the console causing heat issues thus premature failures. No wonder that, back in the day, most of the issues on both Consoles and Home Computers were caused by ICs dying after power pack failure. DESCRIPTION: The Deluxe Atari 2600 Power Supply is an efficient item which delivers a current which is not only stable but also clean and properly filtered. Furthermore, being it tiny and lightweight, shipping is obviously much cheaper than a heavy, 30 years old, obsolete Atari 2600 AC/DC Adapter. The Atari 2600 Deluxe Power Supply adds longevity and relief to your console. SPECIFICATIONS: • 9VDC@500mA • OVP (OverVoltage Protection) • Highly Filtered S.M.P.S. (Switching Module Power Supply) • 100~240V (Worldwide Usage) PICTURE: PRICE: €18,80 SHIPPING: €6,80 (EU); €8,80 (United States, Canada & Australia)
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I hope someone out there can help me with a question about general electronics and, in particular, the Videopac G7400 power supply. I live in the US and I recently imported a G7400 Videopac from Europe. I originally was going to get a voltage converter, but I was reading the import guide at this website and on step 3 there is mention of swapping the original power supply with a regulated 12V/5V US power supply. I am perfectly comfortable with the actual replacement, but I don't have the technical knowledge about electronics to ensure that I won't do anything really stupid and install an incompatible PSU. So my question is: Can someone give me some info or a link to a regulated 12V/5V US power supply that would be safe to use? Thanks!
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For sale: 12 Atari Lynx official power supplies NIB. Asking price: $200 shipping included for the whole lot, or $25 (shipping included) per unit. If you're in the US, include $10 extra for insurance. PM me if you're interested. Payment via PayPal only. Fast shipping as soon as payment is received. Prices are in Canadian dollars for buyers in Canada, and in US dollars for American buyers. Reasonable offers will also be accepted. Here's a link to our eBay profiles: http://www.ebay.ca/usr/ladyjaye75 and http://www.ebay.ca/usr/ericdestcyr
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I have an old US Colecovision power supply that game with my system, but I've been interested in replacing it for a while - it's been buzzing, and given the periodic graphical screwups I've been concerned that the issue is that power supply dying. I finally bit the bullet and bought a Canadian supply on ebay that was listed as tested and working, etc. Well when I got it and plugged it in, nothing happened. The game screen didn't pop up (though the static patterns on my tv changed slightly). I complained to the seller, who sent me another one he had available... same issue. Now one bad supply could happen, sure, but getting two seems a bit weird. Anyone have any idea what could be wrong, and how I could test that and fix it? The US supply still boots up the system, so I'm inclined to think it's related to the Canadian supplies themselves... unless there's an issue on the power jack's pins or something.
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I put several Atari 8-bit (and a few ATari ST) items on ebay. View my ebay auctions here: eBay Seller: chris82369 Some of the items include: * Qix cartridge + Gauntlet II disk * Atari 850 interface with original manuals * AtarWriter cartridge + paperclip word processors * Visicalc disks with original manual * Atari 800XL power supply. I also have a few Atari ST items: STM1 mouse, power supplies. -
Cleaning out the closet and selling items from the Atari ST setup I had back in the day. Here are the Atari ST items I have on ebay currently: 6 Atari ST games:Sundog F. Legacy,Phantasie 1+3,AD&D,Gauntlet,Transylvania AS-IS http://www.ebay.com/itm/301856623442 Atari ST QMI DeskCart! Complete with Cartridge, Disk and original package. AS-IS http://www.ebay.com/itm/301856628331 Atari 520ST power supply CO70099-3 used, untested, as-is http://www.ebay.com/itm/301856629462 ATARI Power Supply C070091-014 For Atari ST SF354 disk drive UNTESTED AS-IS http://www.ebay.com/itm/301858197722 ATARI Power Supply C070091-014 For Atari ST SF354 disk drive UNTESTED AS-IS http://www.ebay.com/itm//301858197477
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I have a few Atari ST items up for auction on ebay. "Cleaning out the attic". These items were from my own Atari ST setup back in the day. These auctions end today (sorry about the late notice). The most interesting items is probably the Spectre GCR (by Gadgets by Small) hardware Macintosh emulator. Here is the wikipedia page for the Spectre GCR: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spectre_GCR You can also find some youtube videos of this device in action. My current Atari ST auctions. Spectre GCR http://www.ebay.com/itm/301850740308 520ST power supply: http://www.ebay.com/itm/301850753109 Power supply for SF354 disk drive: http://www.ebay.com/itm/301850759871 (another) Power supply for SF354 disk drive: http://www.ebay.com/itm/301850761482 I also have some auctions ending today for some Atari 8-bit stuff. I will be posting up some new auctions for Atari stuff (8bit and ST) soon. Check out my other ebay listings here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/chris82369/m.html
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Hello everyone! I need to make sure that I'm testing my XEGS power supply correctly. Most pinout diagrams on Internet don't specify if the pinout is viewed from the connector's point of view or from the console's plug. Using the pinout configuration displayed on the guides, I get -5VDC instead of 5VDC in the respective pins; therefore, I assume that the guides show the pins reversed (i.e., shown from the console's plug), but I want to make sure if I'm doing the right thing. Any words of wisdom?
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Hello there, I got a quick question for all you atari expert here I'v recently found an old atari 600XL with no power supply or other cables. I've looked up the input voltages and hooked the atari up to a simple 5v, 1.5A ac-dc converter. Now when I turn the atari on I get a red power light on, but my tv cannot find any channels on the rf-output (it can find the signal for the nintendo, so i suppose the tv can't be the problem?) I also came some information that said you should not use an alternative power supply for the 600XL, at least not an unreglated. What exactly are the requirement for the atari 600XL power supply? I've measured the voltages from mine. With the atari off, it gives 5.23 volts. When I switch the atari on it goes to 5.07 volt. That's 3%. Should I assume that the converter I have is unregulated? Or is 5.07 too low? Any information on the matter would be welcome, I hope I can get this nice machine to work again. I'm going to try building a video cable for the monitor connected today, to see if only the rf-module is busted. Thank you! Bram
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I have recently gotten my XF551 up and running by replacing the Mitsumi d503 mech. The previous owner had routed around a broken power switch by cutting a trace and jumpering so it's always on. So I have been pulling out the power cord when I want to turn it off and inserting it when I want to turn it on. A pain, but oh well. Recently that power supply died with voltage going close to zero. I have several of these supplies since they're the same as the 1050, but before I start using another one I will ask this question: could the death of this power supply have anything to do with turning the drive on and off by inserting and pulling the plug? Related question - it would be very easy for me to add a generic switch to the jumpered area -- would any 'ol switch work?
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I live in the US and I recently bought a G7400 VideoPac from Europe. Can anyone comment on whether it would be possible to swap an internal power transformer in an odyssey 2 with the transformer in the G7400 to get the correct voltage to the system? It seems like a reasonable alternative to buying a step down converter, but I don't have the technical background to know for sure. Suggestions or comments? Thanks
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Last week I bought a gem of an 800XL from eBay and have been having a good time with it since. After spending some time in the forum I've noticed several threads about 600/800XLs being destroyed by the "Ingot" type power supply going bad. Upon investigation I indeed have an Ingot. It appears to be working fine--i.e. my 800XL still works--but for the moment I've put it on probation until I decide what to do. Mind you, I haven't voltage tested it yet, but I may not bother if it could go without warning. So do these power supplies give any "warning" or obvious indication that they're going to go, or should I preemptively replace it? Based on the horror stories in the forum, I'm leaning towards trashing the Ingot and attaching the DIN to a modern PS. Good call or undue alarm?
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Hello Atari fans. Possibly a boring post but here goes anyway. I've come across an unusual and official Atari brand CX2000/2600 power supply (UK 240V). I say "rare" because i've probably handled over 1000 2600 PSUs as I recondition the Woody 2600 light sixer models and have purchased 100s of job lots over the last 10 years. The label reads Atari CX-2000/2600 (in that order) It's similar in design to the early 1977/78 Cherry Leisure and Ingersol PSUs which came with UK Sunnyvale light Sixers and the PAL heavy Sixers but must have been made in 1982 (after the Val Proto was made obviously). As far as i'm aware it's unique and interesting that is says 2000 first as it if was made with the Val model in mind? Has anyone ever seen a 120V one of these? Probably not that interesting to most of you, but is to me considering the obscurity of the CX-2000 so I must be the only person with labelled power supply for one. A label error but shows the 2000 was on someones mind at the factory in the UK for it to be produced. Any thoughts?
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I recently received an Atari 2600 (4 switches) which was in working condition from the previous owner. Upon receiving it and plugging it in to my TV, it did not work. I see snow on the TV and I am using the RCA to RF (Coax) connector. I have a multimeter and when I tested the Atari power supply, it shows 20v. Is that an issue given that the brick is rated at 9v? Also, with the power supply connected to an outlet and I plug the cord into the back of the Atari, I do not see the "spark" that other threads mention, regardless of whether or not the Atari is on or off. Unfortunately I do not have a spare Atari power supply or Atari to validate against. If anyone has any thoughts on this, I would appreciate it. Thanks.
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Hello! I'm having a problem with my Colecovision the past couple of days. It's been working great for a couple years now. It was working fine just a couple days ago, but suddenly now it only displays mostly static on the screen when I turn it on. There is no visual of any game/startup screen. The attached pic shows the pattern of static I see. Sorry, it's sideways. The top quarter of the tv is plain black, but then there's like a reddish line and the rest is static (although the bottom quarter seems yellowish). I've tried using different RF Adapters and cables and it's the same problem (maybe the colours a little less noticeable, but same issue). For now, I'm just using a direct cable connection to the tv. I've already taken apart the power switch to clean the contacts on its top and bottom halves. No change. Another piece of info. I recently checked out the voltage readings reaching the main board from the power supply. When the power is off: Blue: -4.6 V White: 4.75 V Red: 9.7 V --Wait, isn't that a bit far off? Then I turn the power on and here are the readings: Blue: -4.6 V (same as before) White: 4.75 V (same as before) Red: 6.4 V -- Is this supposed to happen when the power is turned on?? I'm worried that the problem could be the RF Modulator. But those power supply readings seem strange, but I don't know why the system would work fine for years and then suddenly this would be the problem. Anyway, based on this info, and the picture attached, does anyone have any suggestions/ideas of the problem and how to fix? Thanks, all.
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Hi again I've acquired a PAL version Atari 800, but am trying to get to the bottom of its booting up into a red screen. Removing and reseating the RAM boards one-by-one has no effect, and neither does trying to run Star Raiders. This makes me think that either the ROM board is bust (the chip marked CO12399B at position A402 started to get a bit warm) or there's something wrong withg the power supply (it's a Tadmod 9.5V one - I don't have a voltmeter to hand so can't test it at the moment). So - I'm wonderihng whether there's anyone who have these components to hand and is willing to lend or sell them to me so that I can try swapping them out. If you're within travelling distance (I'm in Manchester, UK) then I'm happy to bring my unit down and try it on the spot. Alternatively, if there's any diagnostic checks that you think I've missed out then feel free to throw them in. Cheers folks!
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