Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'power'.
-
My latest project is to bring my 800XL back into use after years of being boxed. Step 1: Power. Not wanting to risk the original power brick, I got a USB to DIN cable. Tested it, it seems fine. I have many USB power adapters, so all should be good, right? A 3A adapter from a wireless charger: Dead. A 2A adapter for an iPad: Dead. A 2A adapter for a Samsung phone: Dead. A 2A adapter on a power block: Dead. Even tried the multiple USBs on my desktop PC: Dead. Not a flicker. None of them work! So dead Atari then? No, cos connect the original power block (after testing it of course) and it lives! Which is nice... but why!? The odd thing I don't get is, the output of these adapters. They all should be more than enough amperage, but they're supposed to be 5v, right? But all but one is putting out only around 3v. Only the Samsung is more, and even that's only 4.7v, and still doesn't work. What am I missing here?
-
Do the system GROMs get their +5V power separate from the rest of the motherboard? The schematic in the back of the blue TI tech manual seems to indicate everything gets the same +5V, except for the VDP and its RAM, which has an inductor on it. I've been trying to figure out why my non-QI 99/4A is unstable. I \measured the +5V pin at the cartridge slot, and found it has 4 volts on it. This morning I opened-up the console and put a clip lead on the +5V pin that feeds the motherboard, then used an ohm-meter probe to see if there were any breaks in the power traces. At the GROM port I measured 5.5 ohms between the input +5V line and the cartridge +5V pin. Then I tried to follow the trace on the motherboard, reading about 5.5 ohms along the way, including the rail-thing along the CPU chip. I followed the trace to the motherboard GROMs, and still found 5.5 ohms. The half of the CPU chip next to the rail-thing (seems to be fed by the rail) also measured 5.5 ohms. It doesn't help that the rail seems to be a power (and maybe ground) conductor. The side of the CPU chip nearest the power connector, and the power pins on several of the TTL chips, all measured 1.1 ohms. The meter leads themselves were about 1 ohm (cheapie $8 meter). Any thoughts or hints where to look? Anything that might not be in the schematic? K-R.
-
In my quest to solve the BATcomputer 's power problems, I found some small DC converters. The BAT's power supply is a very noisy battery pack that puts out 21V. I need to convert this to +/-5V and +12V to run the console, and +5V for the NanoPEB and the USB keyboard adapter. To this end, I've been rather a pest on the forum about power supplies, DC converters in particular. Some parts I have found are: CUI P7805-2000R-S with +5V output from Mouser (courtesy of Shift838) Same part from Digi-Key CUI P7812-2000R-S with +12V output from Digi-Key Several models modules from Pololu (courtesy of matthew180) The above models all have positive-voltage outputs. Here's one I found that puts out either + or -5V, depending how you wire the output leads. I had doubts about it, so I ordered a couple and wired one up along with a P7805-2000R-S to see if it would work. It did! Next step is to wire them up with my battery pack. I've recently seen several conversations about re-wiring PE Boxes and boards, so I thought I would mention these to the group at large. Forgot to mention that the CUI units take a minimum of 8V input, while the Pololu units will work on 3V. I poked around the Pololu site, but did not find any that put out negative voltages. K-R.
-
I have a 4 port 5200 that seems to work okay (video, audio, gameplay, etc) when turned on, but when plugged in and turned off the power LED blinks erratically. When it blinks "on" the TV static changes as if it's getting some sort of signal. For a bit of history, I've had it for a couple years and recapped it at the time. I had a switchbox, but it was never reliable and stopped working at all (it seemed to provide power, but no TV signal) so I installed the swtichbox bypass kit from console 5 about 6 months ago, and things worked well at the time. The console really belongs to my 16 year old retro obsessed son, and a couple weeks ago he wanted to play some 5200 games for the first time in a few months, and it's been acting up since. I just replaced the 4013 flip-flop IC with a brand new one, since I read those can go bad and cause power circuit problems, but it doesn't seem to have helped. I'm sure something is happening in the power circuit, but I'm not sure what to test. Like I said, it seems to work while turned on, but I'm worried something might be going bad that could end up damaging something. I'm happy to post pictures of anything that might be helpful.
-
Yes, I have read many of the threads on what adapter replacement to purchase for a 2600, but "most" of these tend to end with long technical discussions or have bad links. Anyone have something current for 2023 that is reliable, not junk nor something that "may" damage my vintage 6er over time? I have seen new-old-stock on ebay, but that seems like just ending in the same place, non working vintage power supply, sooner then later. -
Hi - TIA for any replies!! 1) Can you confirm if this is the correct power brick for the 520ST? 2) Where is a good source for such information on the ST line? 3) Is there a great FAQ for the ST line like the one Michael Current maintains for the Atari 8bits? 4) Can you share a diagram of the pin-out of the power brick so I can test it?
-
Hi - Does anyone know of a good replacement for the on/off power rocker switch for the 520ST? Mine is stuck and will not budge at all. Unlike the 1040 the 520's power switch is mounted vertical and is attached directly to the PCB. I am not finding any good replacements on PCB-Way. What kind of power specs do I need for such a switch for the 520ST? TIA On Digikey I find some toggle switches like the one pictured below which look like they may fit. What kind of power specs do I need for such a switch for the 520ST? I would like to find a rocker switch like the original above rather than a toggle switch like below. However, I will settle for whatever works.
-
Hi, I've just bought 2 power supplies for my Atari 130XE and my Atari 800XE as I lost my previous power supplies during moving. I've bought the new power supplies from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/324218268282 Now, this seller has MANY positive reviews and experience, so I'm probably reading every schematic / pinout wrong. The adapters do look hand made though - the connector part - maybe a mistake was made. I've connected both supplies to my 130XE, and nothing. No signal, completely dead. Ok, I've tried the 800XE. Same, dead. I've measured the power supply and it gives 5volts, it is rated at 1amp. Still nothing. But then, I started noticing the polarity might be wrong. It's reversed from just about any picture / pinout I can find. So I've opened the computer and measured. Please see photo attached. Is this the correct polarity, and my Ataris just died, or is the polarity reversed? If reversed, did I just kill my computers?:( Thank you all a lot.
-
Morning all, poster from Ireland here, TLDR version: I am utterly clueless when it comes to AV hook-ups for the original Odyssey (and also when it comes power networking more generally). Would really appreciate if someone could review my Youtube/Wikipedia research, so I don't destroy a vintage console. The Console: I have an original Magnavox Odyssey (1972) that I picked up from another guy living in Ireland. I don't know much about Magnavox's distribution history (was the idea of PAL consoles even a thing back in 1972? ) but I'm assuming it's a standard NTSC unit that was imported, as there's a sticker on the bottom saying 120V/60Hz. The guy I bought it from just had it out on display, so there's no game power cord or antenna game switch with it, and I'm just trying to figure out what my best options are to power it on (without wearing out the battery compartment), and connecting it to a CRT. Power (Problem): In Ireland, we run the UK-style "Type G" electrical sockets, that output a standard supply of 230 volts AC (frequency 50Hz). I do have a step-down transformer but would prefer not to use it if possible, as it heats up very quickly. So I guess what I'm looking for is a) a modern power supply that can accept an input range of 100-240V, 50/60 HZ), b) that's well suited to the MA1 console, and c) that has those Irish/UK style pins. Like I said, I don't have one of the original power supplies that Magnavox manufactured for the Odyssey (I have been waiting for a few months for one to pop up on eBay with no joy...), but in an earlier thread linked below, @Clong80 notes that the specs on the original power supply are: INPUT 117 VAC 50/60HZ OUTPUT 9 volts 400ma 3.5mm mono headphone jack Tip positive for polarity Power (Solution?) So after a bit of online browsing, I found this website that sells modern power supply adapters for the Atari 2600. The specs on this unit are: 9V DC 1A Tip: 3.5mm jack (Centre tip positive) https://www.retrosales.com.au/collections/atari-power/products/accessory-power-supply-atari-2600-power-supply-adaptor-pack-9v So that will supply more current than the console needs; I know these numbers don't need to match exactly, but is the difference (9V, 1A vs 9V, 400ma) reasonable enough? I'd also need a standard travel adapter to convert the Australian plug to UK pin-style. Found this unit on Amazon ("This Adapter does not convert Voltage. Please make sure your device supports 220-240 Voltage.") Per Jakob Schuler on YouTube, it looks like the Magnavox Odyssey needs a 2.5mm tip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzXlJSa_VP4&t=6m22s), so I found this 3.5mm-to-2.5mm adapter on Amazon AV Hookup: I don't have one of the original antenna game switches with the hanging hooks, but my CRT doesn't accept NTSC RF anyway, so I don't think that would be the best option for me. However, it will accept NTSC through the composite ports. And I have an NTSC RF-to-composite conversion box, which works great either on its own or with composite switches. I've had no luck finding an original MA1 video cable like this one https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_06_2016/post-32949-0-81329000-1466475134.jpg On the TV end, the little RF adapters are obviously no problem to get from Amazon, but I understand that the other end which connects to the console is proprietary? (I'm not 100% sure about this). End of an entirely-too-long post Would be super grateful if anyone could advise me on 1) whether I've made any huge screw-ups in my choice of power accessories, and 2) how to find a video cable that will connect to the console Many thanks if you stuck through to the end of this post -
I've been troubleshooting a 1571 drive for a while now and I've pretty much exhausted everything on the mainboard. I'd like to work on the PSU, but it's wrapped in a metal cage and I don't see how it opens, short of cutting it apart. Does anyone know how I can get into the power supply on my 1571 drive?
-
Does anyone know the volts, milliamps and the polarity of the original Gemini power supply? Also is it DC or AC?
-
I've managed to bring one of my XEGS's back from the dead (New RAM and CPU) but the power switch is seized in the off position. Has anyone managed to repair one of these switches? If not any ideas where I could find a replacement, preferably in the UK? Is the TK-II-XEGS available from anyone other than the brewing academy? It's going to cost about £40+ whatever customs duty to get one over here, and I don't want to spend that much Thanks
-
Been going on a bit of a repair kick lately and got myself into a bit of trouble / mystery. Way back in the olden days, I got a catalog in the mail from some outfit named INTV Corporation. I ordered an INTV System III from them - so I could have my very own Intellivision to haul off to college! In the ensuing years, that system has gone through quite a lot, even tolerating my "repairs". One time when opening it (another story there, let's just say it needed fixing), I essentially destroyed the ribbon cable connecting the power board to the main board. I hacked together an absolutely horrible solution, and so it stayed for the past 15 years or so. I started using different systems as "daily drivers". I finally decided to remedy the hacky repair, because the system was unstable due to … shall we say … some extremely bad work on my part. At the time I did the "repair" I damaged the traces on the power board where the ribbon cable used to be, and age has not been kind to that board. (In my defense, I did the repair using materials at hand and a soldering gun -- yeah, that was fun!) OK, backstory done. Let's move to today: I removed the mess from the old "repair" and put in something more tidy and less prone to accidental grounding-of-things-that-should-not-be-grounded. However, the damage done so many years back must have caused more issues. The system seemed to work -- until I closed it all up. More investigation revealed further connectivity problems due to damaged traces. So, I reworked the connections again. More stress on an already compromised board... Now, I still have a really bad multimeter. If you're curious, it's this one. So while I can say the voltages on the connector pins are "ballpark", I can't say with any confidence that they are "in spec". Here's the weirdness: One controller does not work. (the right controller). But only with this power board. If I connect a different power board, both controllers work just fine. With this super duper hacky-fixed-up power board, only the left controller works. Using the 4.1 test cart, the chips all pass tests, etc. but I get zero response from the right controller... Swapping back to the brand new power board, everything works just fine. Ideas? I'd like to keep the original parts intact - hacked up damage and all - if possible. Plus it's useful to have a functioning, separate power board available for testing things like this. -
ok, I was just perusing our own favored webstore, Arcade Shopper, and I read the description (who does that anymore?!?!), and I came to the part about external power not being necessary, if you mod the speech synth with 1 wire on 2 points. Pin 1. (Excellent Description). I am still ubernoob in the TI world, but the fact that this simple oversight on TI seems... ludicrous? Unless.... the peripherals connected beyond the SS would have been externally powered. Well I will tell you what mod I am doing after I get home tonight!! -
So I'm trying to consolidate the amount of damn mains plugs for my Atari stuff (among others) and after searching previous topics, the 9v requirement of peripherals seems to be a bit of stumbling block. I have absolutely no knowledge of power conversion and related topics, so can anyone electrical confirm if this solution would work for powering 1050s and the like, assuming the correct barrel connector is used? A multiport fast USB charger such as this along with step up USB cables such as this? And after typing that lot out i realised I was a bit of a dunce as 1050 etc. use AC power...Interestingly however, I did find this USB inverter that has completely the wrong type of connector of course, but shows that in theory (I think?) such a thing is possible. Anyone any thoughts?
-
This is more of a feeler listing as I would like to find out if it's possible to get a G5 1.6GHZ compatible AGP video card with at least 128MB VRAM(256 preferred, but dependent on cost) for a more reasonable amount of money than the +$100 listings i've seen on eBay. All things being equal, I would rather not dump a log of money into a machine that has somewhat of a checkered history as far as it's reliability is concerned. I don't have any hardware that I could use to flash an AGP video card myself, so I can't just buy a PC ROM card and flash it. As long as it works with my system and preferably has a VGA port in addition to DVI, I wouldn't mind a flashed GPU if it meant it was a bit cheaper. I was hoping to stay under $30 shipped if at all possible. Thanks for reading. -
I had just done a McWill update and everything was working great. It ran fine for a few hours and a few on/off cycles, then I couldn't turn the Lynx on. I assumed the MOSFET has failed, ordered a couple, put it in and then POP, TP18 blew up real good! Perhaps I didn't purchase the right MOSFET, or just a coincidence? This is the MOSFET I ordered from Digikey: NDT2955CT-ND NDT2955 MOSFET P-CH 60V 2.5A SOT-223-4 Assuming nothing else blew and I have the right part, I've heard there was a zener diode I should be replacing as well, but I don't know which one or it's value. I, of course, need to replace TP18 -- what part is that? Thanks in advance to you all.
-
I'm looking for a good Raspberry Pi setup I have the following Xbox to trade or possibly sell (includes) IDE Adapter to Sata Card 80 pin high speed ribbon cable 750GB 7200 Rpm hard Drive Clear "Ghost" Case 2 Controllers Dukes Power Cable Hi-def component cables Red lighted Controller Ports Blue Lighted Top Power Switch On the Controller Clear DVD Cover Mod vid_1.mp4vid_2.mp4 PM me for details Thanks for looking!
-
Hey all, As I didn't really see a 'dumb questions' topic, I'll just ask here: I've dusted off my Atari Lynx yesterday and tried to boot it using the original power cable. Sadly it didn't really seem to want to boot (it did get power when I fiddled a bit with the plug part that goes into the Lynx). So I scavenged for 6 batteries, put those into the Lynx and it boots without any issues. So either the power port is dirty / worn out or the adapter (the plug part) is dying. To verify this, my plan is to get an universal power adapter with a 3.5 mm x 1.35 mm plug (if I'm correct, that's the one the Lynx uses?). I could also look into somehow cleaning the power port (I'm not sure how to go about that though...). Any advice or does this problem sound familiar to anyone? In the meanwhile I'm looking for my second device as well (which may still be at my parents actually), which also has it's own power adapter... I'm at least trying to get a completely working Lynx to get the McWill mod done. It feels a bit of a waste if it only works with batteries... Thanks in advance!
-
Hello all, I'd like to begin by saying that I am by no means a negligent/careless owner. I was never rough with my Jag. However, despite this, it stopped working a while back for reasons currently beyond me. The last few times I'd played it, it had serious controller issues; on Cybermorph, the T-Griffon wouldn't stop jetting forward and moving upward, while on Tempest 2K, I couldn't stop shooting. Not long after these incidents, my Jag failed entirely, and won't even power on. All I know is that these consoles are very sensitive to electrical mishaps (shorts, overloads, etc.), and that something to do with the controller inputs failed/shorted out, and this somehow eventually led to total failure. Yet if that is the case, wouldn't that mean that one of my controllers is defective and causes shorts? I've no soldering skills, and even less of a clue on how to find the replacement parts necessary for this system, so the chances of me fixing this are slim. For the meantime, I've purchased a new Jag system (I shouldn't have to explain how expensive they've become), so I want to ensure that this doesn't happen again. The main things I want to know are: *What caused this? *Is this (cheaply) fixable? *What can prevent this? Sorry about the long post, but as a long-time Atari fan, I just want to ensure the fun doesn't stop here. Please feel free to ask me anything you'd like to know.
-
Is anyone else running into audio/video popping when using a Suncom Tac2 with a Sears Video Arcade II? It only happens when I press the orange buttons on either side of the controller. The 4 switch woody 2600 I have has no issues with it. I wonder if it's a power/feedback issue with that specific model. It's kind of comical to watch the screen jump and audio crackle in Berzerk every time you shoot an alien. Also the regular Atari controllers (cx-40?) do not have the issue. I am using a non-Atari branded 9VDC 1A adapter with polarity like (-)-©-(+). Wondering if maybe it's a power issue, although the Arcade II exhibits no other problems with any other devices. There seems to be zero consensus on what the ideal V/A or even polarity or AC/DC should be on these forums and interwebs for this console but I do believe it has to have a bridge rectifier if it can handle both VDC and VAC adapters. I just got this unit with the Tac2 over the weekend locally so I have no idea if it ever didn't do this with the tac2. My guess is it's just the fact that it's a clone that wasn't completely vetted with 3rd party accessories since it was originally destined to be the 2800 in Japan.
-
Ok so I got a power supply that is good on +5,-5,but the +12 registers at like 124 and such. Anyone ever had the thought of opening the innards of the coleco and adding the electrical components inside to offset needing to dremel the power supply open? Just looking for alternatives although knowing I would need to be able to retro fit the interior if I get a new power supply and all. Just thinking inside the other box and all. Thoughts are welcome here.
-
I was given a PAL 7800 recently. The unit came as-is, untested with neither the power supply or controller, but 2 games including DKJr (One of my favorites), so I was pretty chuffed. I searched online for some info on a quick fix, and ended up hardwiring a SEGA MegaDrive 2 PSU. The console powers on and plays games! However, after a minute or two of play, the screen will crackle and the picture will disappear, only to glith back to normal seconds later. It repeats this process every few minutes. This issue has reoccurred every time I've tested the system. Any pointers folks?
-
I have an Atari Jaguar, but lost the power adapter a long time ago. I've seen people saying the first-gen Genesis power adapter works for the Jaguar, but what about the MK-1602-1 adapter? It's intended for the first-gen Genesis, which requires 9V and 1.2A, but the adapter is 10V and 1.2A. I don't know why they made it 1 volt more, but it's meant for a system that requires 9V, so would it work for the Jaguar? From pictures people have posted, it looks like the same company might have made the same power adapter for multiple companies.
-
I'm getting a Colecovision soon, without a power supply. These things are a nightmare, as you know - they have an obsolete plug and also supply the unit with +5, +12 and -5v dc. My question is this - Can the Colecovision be modded to a common 2.1mm barrel plug to take a 12vdc supply - powering a 7905 -5v reg and a 7805 +5v reg? Thus, giving the machine it's 12v, 5v and -5v supplies? I would also use some big custom heat sinks or Traco switching voltage regulators to keep the heat down inside the machine.
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord