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Showing results for tags 'power'.
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I was given a PAL 7800 recently. The unit came as-is, untested with neither the power supply or controller, but 2 games including DKJr (One of my favorites), so I was pretty chuffed. I searched online for some info on a quick fix, and ended up hardwiring a SEGA MegaDrive 2 PSU. The console powers on and plays games! However, after a minute or two of play, the screen will crackle and the picture will disappear, only to glith back to normal seconds later. It repeats this process every few minutes. This issue has reoccurred every time I've tested the system. Any pointers folks?
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I have an Atari Jaguar, but lost the power adapter a long time ago. I've seen people saying the first-gen Genesis power adapter works for the Jaguar, but what about the MK-1602-1 adapter? It's intended for the first-gen Genesis, which requires 9V and 1.2A, but the adapter is 10V and 1.2A. I don't know why they made it 1 volt more, but it's meant for a system that requires 9V, so would it work for the Jaguar? From pictures people have posted, it looks like the same company might have made the same power adapter for multiple companies.
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I'm getting a Colecovision soon, without a power supply. These things are a nightmare, as you know - they have an obsolete plug and also supply the unit with +5, +12 and -5v dc. My question is this - Can the Colecovision be modded to a common 2.1mm barrel plug to take a 12vdc supply - powering a 7905 -5v reg and a 7805 +5v reg? Thus, giving the machine it's 12v, 5v and -5v supplies? I would also use some big custom heat sinks or Traco switching voltage regulators to keep the heat down inside the machine.
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While messing around on my 800xl yesterday, the colors on screen were sometimes strange. Turn off and on, wiggle cables, the colors would return to the correct colors...but change after a while. Then while in Basic, I watched as the background color drifted from blue to green over a 30 second span of time. At first I thought it was the monitor cable connector, but ended up discovering that I could make the colors change by slowly wiggling the cable of the power connection where it attaches to the connector plug. If it were an "ingot" I'd probably just toss it. But it is a black brick, so I'd prefer to keep it if it's easy to fix. A couple questions... - I've seen the pin outs for the plug. 3 +5 and 3 grounds. Are there actually 6 wires inside that power cable, or is it just 2 wires, each attached to 3 pins? - out of curiosity, I've wondered a few times through the years why Atari used a power connector with so many pins. Are those 3 "pairs" of pins connected to different parts of the circuit board, or are the 3 +5v pins tied together and just connected at one point on the board. If tied together, what was the point of having 3 separate pins? - back in the day I was into programming...the software side of things, not the hardware, so I never bothered to learn much about circuits, etc. But again, out of curiousity, how would a loose connection in that cable cause the odd color shifting I was seeing? I would expect a bad connection to cause the power to just cut out completely, not shift screen colors but otherwise keep functioning. Unless the 3 pins do have separate connections and just the pin going to the video circuit has a loose connection? - and lastly, the most obvious question.... What's my best source for getting a replacement connector? And possibly with wiring already soldered to the pins so that I can skip that somewhat difficult (for me) step and just splice the wires. Much thanks for any replies.
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Here's a quick power LED mod I did for my 4-switch woody 2600. It's not pretty but it works so far. I didn't want to mess with the original look of my Atari, so I chose not to drill a hole at the top or through the power switch itself. I used a 150 Ohm resistor and used the 5V and Ground on the main board. I didn't want to solder directly to pins 2 and 3 of the voltage regulator but I could have done that instead. The short pin on the LED goes to Ground. I also made sure the wires did not touch the 'heat plate' surrounding the voltage regulator, which can get very hot.
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I recently picked up a 5200 4-port. It's missing several case screws. Can anyone confirm the correct screws used for the case? I think the screws that came with this 5200 are type b #6-20 3/4 sheet metal screws. Is that what it should be or perhaps these were used to replace the original screws that were of a different type? Here's what was in my 5200: It didn't have a power supply, but I found one elsewhere. It's an 11.5v version. I tested it with a multimeter and it's outputting 14.5 volts. From what I've found the voltage regulators in both the case and the switchbox should be capable of handling over 30 volts. Do I have any reason to worry about using the power supply? 3 volts over seems like a big difference, is that typical or should I start looking for another power supply? The traces (or is it the soldermask) on the back side of the board on is wrinkly (see the POKEY to C104 wire image below). Is that normal or is it a sign of something I need to be worried about? It looks like the VCS adapter compatibility mod was applied to this board, but I also see a capacitor between pins 1 and 17 on the POKEY and a wire on the underside between pin 1 of the POKEY and C104. Is this a known mod? Any idea what it's for? Trying to smooth out power to the POKEY perhaps? In the middle of the rat's nest that is the VCS mod, I see a resistor and a capacitor (?) wired in parallel from between the two resistors connecting R11 and C10 as part of the VCS mod. There's also a diode wired to either side of R10. Any idea what they're for? The parts side of the pcb, marked CA018087, has no revision. The solder side, marked C018085 is rev 7. I will probably apply the mod to separate the power from the RF. I was also thinking about doing the mod for composite and/or s-video, but doing that would make the VCS mod pointless, right? If I did the composite/s-video mod I could pull the VCS mod out. If I did that would I need to reconnect pin 24 on the cartridge slot to ground? Thanks for any help/information you can provide. I hope to get this 5200 up and running soon.
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Hey guys, I recently got a TI Silent Type 745 Terminal, but it is missing the power cord. It seems to be something old from the 70s and as I live in Germany, it is kind of hard to get information about it. Anybody's got a clue what kind of cable this is, and how it is called, or where to obtain it? The plug is about 3cm wide, with is about 1.1inch and has three terminals. Thanks. falk
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Hello all! Very, very new to the TI-99/4a. A college friend recently sold me one for $20. After picking up a TI Extended Basic cart, I found myself very interested in learning Basic as a hobby. So, I went on eBay and found a "mint condition new in box" black program recorder. If "new" means missing the manual, missing the cable, and came in a box that reeked of mildew. That's eBay for you. The tape deck itself seems fine, and I cleaned up the cable that leads to the computer. (Cable was definitely coated in mildew... ew... ) I also already had a manual, but there isn't much to it so wasn't worried about that. However this brings me to the topic at hand. C batteries will add up fast. I noticed there is an option for a DC adapter. Anyone know where I could find a compatible DC adapter? Or even an original AC adapter?
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Hello Everyone, I just got a hold of a Darth Vader and am trying to get it into working order again and am having video difficulties. It's a Rev 17 board and I'm currently in the process of putting in sockets as I remove the chips. The pictures attached show what my lovely screen looks like as is. Currently I have a known working RIOT chip in it and a new On/Off switch. The RF cable, Missile Command, joystick and power supply all work fantastically with my Woody, so if you have any suggestions that would be great. I was thinking the TIA chip, but before I start desoldering it, I thought I might get some ideas. Cheers
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I have long been an observer, but I am now finally joining to contribute, so hello world! My question revolves around something I read on another thread. Essentially, it was that even while turned off the design of the lynx's power regulator means that the lynx still drains the batteries unless you remove one. My question revolves around the fact I notice (at least in the case of the lynx 2 I own) that the unit does not power on without a cartridge inserted. Since as I understand it, the lynx is in a perpetual "standby mode", but does not respond without a cart, is that high enough in the circuitry that the regulator does not run without a cart inserted, or is it just necessary in closing the switching circuitry? If it still drains power without the cart inserted, does anyone know a workaround to this problem? I'm considering changing the power switch into a hard switch and disconnecting and reconnecting the batteries that way. Thank you in advance! Matt
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For the next few weeks I want to spend some quality time with my real iron and spice up my working standard PEB (featuring TI 32K, TI serial, TI controller and a single TI SSSD drive). Some immediate improvements would be to replace the noisy fan and to add a Lotharek drive to the box. Further down the road I also have a non-working US PEB I would like to run on 230 V. Much further down I might even tinker with some custom-designed expansion cards. Now I'm a noob when it comes to the analog aspects of hardware, but the one thing I remember about the PEB is that it can provide only 1A of power safely. For running non-standard stuff, e.g., dual drives, one should do the 2A mod. On the other hand, back in the day my original (and now lost) PEB did have two slim drives, and I doubt that the vendor applied this modification to the PEB. Question 1. Will I be able to run the TI Disk Controller with a single TI SSSD Drive and the Lotharek drive (plus the other cards) safely together, or do I need the 2A mod? The 2A mod refers to the 12V line, but Lotharek uses 5V only. Question 2. Could I additionally power a standard 12V PC fan from the drive power line? This has been done, but what about the 1A power limit? (On second thought: Papst 2600 rpm @ 1,3 W / 12 V = 100 mA, but Papst 1000 rpm @ 0,35 W -> 30 mA seems OK?) For my broken PEB I would at the very least have to replace the fuse, which is hard to get at (rocker switch PEB). Worse, I need to handle 230 V. So I considered replacing the entire power supply with a modern PC one, knowing full well that this is obviously considered a bad idea by several people. If I understood above articles correctly, the PEB requires 8V and 16V instead of the PC 5V and 12V, but all cards will do their own voltage regulation anyway and thus can handle 5V and 12V as well. I absolutely do not doubt these experts and their experience, but still ... When I look at the TI RS-232 interface card, which happens to lie on my table right now, it states as input power requirements . + 7.5 TO + 10.0 VDC @ 0.600 AMPS + 14.0 TO + 18.0 VDC @ 0.100 AMPS - 14.0 TO - 18.0 VDC @ 0.100 AMPS . Question 3. Is it really safe to run a PEB on 5V/12V? Would that also solve the power (amp) shortage from above? If I'm not mistaken, the (European) console power brick also delivers 8V and 16V. Question 4. Couldn't you butcher something for the PEB out of that? And if I ever get around to play with PEB prototyping, I only have the "TI 99/4A and Peripheral Expansion System Technical Data" manual right now. According to that manual, a PEB card may draw up to 250/500/30 mA. Question 5. So did I get this right that the 1 A limitation above only refers to the floppy drive power cable and that I could run up to 8 cards at 500 mA each on the bus? (If so the fuse part confuses me ...) Question 6. Are there any other good resources for creating PEB cards? Are the schematics and/or sources for the PEB prototype board available somewhere? Sorry, that's a lot of questions ... Have I already mentioned that I'm a power noob?
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Does anyone have any long-term experience with running a US TI 99/4A with a European power supply? Looking at the power bricks they supply slightly different voltages, but this thread deems it as safe. That was in 2010, though, so maybe there are new insights by now. My model that arrived in the mail today also has only two power pins in the socket -- does this make my machine a QI model? And if so, is it still safe to use a European power supply? (I do have a step converter, but I think it's a pain to use that.) I also noticed that I need to do the composite video mod to get a picture. While most European TVs handle NTSC nicely I simply have no clue how to connect those flimsy appendages that come out of the modulator.
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Hi all, I've recently ordered a 130XE from the US. I live in France but this kind of machine became recently hard to find. So it was easier and cheaper to buy it in the US. I'll soon receive it, but I have some question regarding the connection: - What kind of power cable do I need to plug it? Does something like that will do the job? http://www.amazon.fr/HQ-P-SUP-32-HQ-Convertisseur-tension-vers/dp/B000MRY5CU Also I'll need to plug to computer, but also the floppy drive, which comes from the same seller. - What's the best way to plug the 130XE on the TV screen? Can I use a Scart cable or a AV composite cable? Or is there a better way? Thanks. Can't wait to receive and play with it!
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Hello! Been lurking here a bit and find the game inventory very handy, as well as the forums. I am cleaning out my stuff and have a Sears Video Arcade II- does it have the same power specs as the 2600? I also have a 5200 I need to test out. I have an Atari branded power supply, labeled AC Adaper Model No. C017539. Google says it's for the Atari Modem- would this work on anything else? Thanks in advance to anyone that can help
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...just what the title says. I sold the only one I had several months ago and I'm itching to start playing again. LMK if you guys have one that you wouldn't mind parting with. Thanks! Edit: I'm also looking for a Microsoft branded Xbox controller (s type)
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After years of hunting for a maching that the price is right for it's condition, AND is close enough to not cost a ton to move it (as much as I like my car, there is no way my poor little Hyundai is moving a cab) I found one. I paid someone $10 to move it for me, and that's it. I was happy, they were happy they didn't have to pay to get rid of it. The machine is in SAD shape. It's been stored in a carriage house for years, and took on some water damage. The plus side to the water damage, the back was easy to pry off, found just shy of $30 in quarters! The cab gods want this machine to live! It's currently an off-brand billiards game. There's stickers all over it from small cab maintenance & sale companies. It's changed hands several times, and I think rebuilt each time. After studying it for a few days, I've come to the conclusion it started life as an Atari Berzerk Cabinet. Since It's been gutted so many times, I think I'm just going to go all-out on a MAME cabinet I don't see ANY potential collectors' value. After a inspecting wiring (and disconnecting the original transformer which was still getting power for some reason, just not outputting to anything) I gave her some juice! The light came on, but nothing else. I double checked a few failsafe switches, and fed it come currency hoping I could get a noise, and prove the screen dead, but nothing nothing. It think it's the new power supply. However, I don't have a comparable replacement available. I'm really torn right now. I want to fix it, just for the experience. I'm really uncomfortable working around the CRT, and would rather just gut it, and sell the boards. (Or trade/gift the boards since I can't verify condition) Thoughts/opinions? I'll add pictures when I can. If anyone has any useful links ot MAME threads, that'd be appreciated too!
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Hey Guys, I recently got hold of a 400 that's not in working condition (unfortunately it's also missing a bit of the case at the back next to where the RF lead comes out, seems to have taken a hit during shipping). Basically there's nothing on screen (though it's not straight up noise) and no key-clicks, so I set about debugging the issue using the Field Service Manual. I got as far as the step for the black/grey screen chart that says to check for 12V on Pin 2 of the power board -> mother board connector (J201 from memory). I do not have 12V on that pin, (the +5v and -5 pins seem good). The flow chart says to check 3 caps and a diode, the diode seems good and two of the caps have 12V across them which would be what I expect. One cap however, (C203?) is a smaller green type, wedgedbetween the big black sheild/heatsink and RF modulator. I managed to hook some wires around the legs of the cap to get my multimeter onto it, and on there I'm seeing a voltage of around 26V. I know it's a long shot but can anyone confirm if it's supposed to be that high or if that's an indication of the fault?
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Anyone have one of these they would be willing to sell? I posted the issue I'm having under classic gaming>sega. Got to thinking that maybe I can replace this entire piece if anyone has one available. Hopefully it's ok to post this here under Wanted. I don't want to cross post but thought this belonged here more than under my original post? I'm attaching a picture of the piece I'm hoping is the issue. I'd like to try the circuit board along with the red and white wires. My other option is to see if someplace local can repair or send it back for a refund.... meh! Thanks.
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Anyone have one of these they would be willing to sell? I posted the issue I'm having under classic gaming>sega. Got to thinking that maybe I can replace this entire piece if anyone has one available. Hopefully it's ok to post this here under Wanted. I don't want to cross post but thought this belonged here more than under my original post? I'm attaching a picture of the piece I'm hoping is the issue. I'd like to try the circuit board along with the red and white wires. My other option is to see if someplace local can repair or send it back for a refund.... meh! Thanks.
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Hello! I'm having a problem with my Colecovision the past couple of days. It's been working great for a couple years now. It was working fine just a couple days ago, but suddenly now it only displays mostly static on the screen when I turn it on. There is no visual of any game/startup screen. The attached pic shows the pattern of static I see. Sorry, it's sideways. The top quarter of the tv is plain black, but then there's like a reddish line and the rest is static (although the bottom quarter seems yellowish). I've tried using different RF Adapters and cables and it's the same problem (maybe the colours a little less noticeable, but same issue). For now, I'm just using a direct cable connection to the tv. I've already taken apart the power switch to clean the contacts on its top and bottom halves. No change. Another piece of info. I recently checked out the voltage readings reaching the main board from the power supply. When the power is off: Blue: -4.6 V White: 4.75 V Red: 9.7 V --Wait, isn't that a bit far off? Then I turn the power on and here are the readings: Blue: -4.6 V (same as before) White: 4.75 V (same as before) Red: 6.4 V -- Is this supposed to happen when the power is turned on?? I'm worried that the problem could be the RF Modulator. But those power supply readings seem strange, but I don't know why the system would work fine for years and then suddenly this would be the problem. Anyway, based on this info, and the picture attached, does anyone have any suggestions/ideas of the problem and how to fix? Thanks, all.
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I am trying to get the Atari 2600 to work but the power light won't turn on. Can anyone fix this?
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Hi I'm YarJr. and I have a Sega Genesis question so what better place to ask than an atari forum? lol (was not going to be my first post here but since I have a legitmiate issue might as well ask. I should be talking about my lovely Atari jr. though) See Ive been ressurecting my old consoles and I lost my power supply and a/v cables for my genesis so I picked some up but the damn power supply is for a genesis 1 and I have a 2 and 3. My question is could I use a Sony 7.5 v supply with an input of 120v ~ 0.37 A and an output of 7.5v -2.0a for a Genesis 2 or 3?
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From the album: Chromebook Unboxing Mar 2013
What comes in the power supply box. Small and light, fairly standard power supply really but nice that it isn't bulky and will travel well© 2013 Curtis Mitchell
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EDIT: SIGH. Opera messed me up, I thought I posted in the main forum. Can a mod move this thread to 2600 General? THANKS. My parents surprised me with a new LED TV (replacing my 20 year old CRT monster, thanks!) and an AC adaptor for my Atari 2600! Finally, I can dust it off and start playing again! Then I realized how poorly I treated my stuff when I was a teenager, and I'm starting to clean everything up (cleaning paddle pots, joysticks, console, etc) This might turn into a "help me fix it" thread, but I don't care. I have two 2600s, both from Pizitz department store. one was a unit behind glass (so it wasn't touched), the other was an open unit that has "DEMO UNIT" red sticker. It also has red paint instead of orange, although I think that's typical from the Taiwan factory units. Anyway, the first 2600 I have (the open one) has a very finicky power switch. it was switched on and off every day for months in a store full of grubby-handed kids, so I'm amazed it's held up this much. It's also the one I ripped all the shielding off to replace it once (and cut myself BADLY doing so). The second 2600 is the dream unit, not a scratch, or a problem... EXCEPT some weird ghosting. I expect it's always been this way, but certain colors (like blue) will ghost really bad. Yars revenge title screen on boot is really mushy looking, but everything else is fine. Is this just NTSC being an abomination to the planet, or is this something I can fix? I think it might be a number of things, from my old Computer/Antenna switchbox to the fact that this thing is 5 years older than I am. I want to be sure that I'm not missing anything. Note that this is the ONLY problem with the unit. there is no static in the signal whatsoever, not even an occasional stray white dot. -
Had this atari for a while and always worked fine. Was playing the other day, turned off, came back later. Now it will not turn on. Flipped power switch and nothing. Any ideas?
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