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This video attempts to cover many aspects of the newly released (JediMatt / ElectricLab) TIPI! After owning this device for about a month, I felt it was time to attempt to document what has been learned so far. I truly hope you enjoy it. It will basically step you through everything (how to put it together, burn the .img file for the Pi and using various apps.) Video run-time is ~42min., so grab your favorite beverage, kick back and enjoy! This video covers the following: * Brief Intro. of the TIPI * Assembly of the 32k Sidecar + TIPI * New Case for the above (Awesome design and perfect fit!) * Creating the TIPI Disk Image for the RPi * How to configure the TIPI to your WiFi Network * How to use the Built-in Telnet client to connect to your RPi (can also be used to connect to BBS's) * How to use TI-Artist with a Mouse + TIPI * Demonstration of MYTI99.com programs including: Chatti, Chess and (my favorite) SNEK! * How to access your TIPI via a UNC Path and copy files * How to use the TIPI Web Administrator to create folders and new TI Files * Demonstration of loading your TI Files (from the TIPI) on the TI-99/4a * Where to purchase a TIPI + 32k Sidecar and also the 3D Printed case https://youtu.be/5NPYWeCx-lk
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Hi all, I recently pulled my Atari 2600jr from storage for testing. I only have one cart to play with (Battlezone) and it's not really working. I'm connecting it via RF using the original cable. There is sound but video is very very distorted and from time to time disappears altogether. Basically it's unusable in this state. What could be the culprit? Thanks
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Here's a video that I put together for Scramble. I cannot say enough good things about this homebrew! NOTE: Be sure to play the video in one of the 60FPS modes on YouTube for best results. I'm not sure why the flicker looks so much worse in this video than it does on the screen. I was capturing it from a Raspberry Pi in 1080p with an El Gato capture device. I'm sure that probably has a lot to do with it. The game is loads of fun and I swear the flicker does not look as bad when playing it through normal hardware!
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- atari 2600
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Check it out people, I dont want to brag, but I uploaded a video of me beating Alien Invaders-Plus!. That's right. Billy Mitchell of the Odyssey2 right here. ;'] Check it out: youtu.be/4UhbvCfEhDE BTW, feel free to subscribe to the youtube channel! I plan on continuing to post gameplay and videos from my classic aka "Retro" systems. If you're reading this message board, somehow I suspect you might like some of my planned videos. Or not. It's entirely up to you.
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- alien invaders plus
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From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component
My high score on Atari 2600's Vanguard. This is on my modded Atari 2600 4-Switch Woodgrain console using YPbPr Component output using Tim Worthington's 2600RGB Mod kit installed.© SavyIsJoshoArts aka Activision Man
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From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component
High Score on Activision's Oink! Played on my Atari 2600 4-Switch Woodgrain Console modded using TimWorthington's 2600RGB Mod showing it in YPbPr Component Video Output.© SavyIsJoshoaArts aka Activision Man
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From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component
My high score on Activision's H.E.R.O. played on my woodgrain 4-Switch Atari 2600 using YPbPr Component Video Output.© SavyIsJoshoArts aka Activision Man
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So, I'm going to be away for a few weeks (more than a few) and away from my home-base where I can record new videos. So, in this thread I wanted to post those videos that have been created in the past couple weeks. I will be creating more, I know in the last video it appears it's the last, but it isn't, I just knew I'd be away for several weeks (i.e. 5ish due to work assignment out of town ). I have more ideas after this series that I want to develop but I won't be able to for at least a month and I have new items on order that have not arrived to review. So, it's not the end of the TI 99/4a Wagner's TechTalk videos. If you haven't seen these, I hope you take the opportunity to look around and hopefully it will be fun/helpful for you. Please comment below with any recommendations and I'll do my best to add them when I return in late April (I will have internet access, just not the ability to create new TI content as my TI will be at home and I won't be). Best to all! -Jon Part I - TI 99/4a Home Computer Introduction and History - Part I https://youtu.be/mFZgnH32Kag Part II - AWESOME TI 99/4a Upgrades - the nanoPEB - Part II https://youtu.be/hsQD0i4pZFk Part III - Preparing and Managing the nanoPEB CF Card with TI99dir - Part III https://youtu.be/cJ5v9d3LeJg Part IV - TI-99/4A Part IV - Various Upgrades: Video converters, TI99Sim, FlashRom99 and more! https://youtu.be/-0bffE-61qo
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This is my first post here, happy to have found it (thanks Gregory)! The TI-99/4a was my first computer, I spent countless hours on it when I was about 14ish. It was this machine that helped me decide what I wanted to do later in life, Software Engineering. Recently, I brought all my TI stuff down from the attic and have been having a great time going through my stuff but also catching up on a lot that I've missed over the years. I've had so much fun, I decided to create a video series on the TI-99/4a, below is the first episode : TI 99/4a Home Computer - Part I https://youtu.be/mFZgnH32Kag I'm working on the second episode, which will likely be much longer. Here's a list of things I'm planning in this next video (or two, depending on how long it turns out in the edit room) : Next Episode ideas 1) Connecting the TI cassette cable to the output jack of a PC/Raspberry Pi to transfer a program to the TI. 2) Connecting the TI via an RCA Cable to an HDMI converter to display on an HD TV 3) Using a nanoPEB to load/run programs 4) Using a null modem cable between an RS-232 port/PC/RPi to transfer data between the two 5) Using the FlashRom99 to run carts Obviously, the next video will get a bit more technical but not so much so that it will be too boring. At least, that's the plan. If you have recommendations for segments you think should be included, please post below. I hope to release Part II here in about a week or two. Please like/subscribe if you enjoy this video. I won't be shy, I'd like to someday be able to monetize my YouTube videos such that it can help fund my addiction to technology ps. I also have a Wagner's TechTalk page https://www.facebook.com/jwagnertech . There I have videos about building RPi arcade cabinets, a custom robot my son and I built, an LED face for Alexa (works via bluetooth), etc.
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Hello, I'm looking to solve an issue I am having with my Atari 800. I bought an S-Video cable years ago off of eBay. It produces crisp video on my Atari 800, but the colors seem off. Additionally, bright colors seem to produce a ghosting effect. Please see my attached screenshot of River Raid. I'll also include a screenshot of Basic to show how characters look (A, M, N, and W in particular). Any thoughts on what the problem is? With an RCA cable, I don't get the ghosting effect, but the colors still seem off. I have an 800XL and the colors look fine with this cable. It's been years since I've used these systems, and I never looked closely at the video output until now. EDIT: In Basic, lowering the luminance of the text seems to help with the ghosting issue. Is there any way I can fix this at a hardware level? Thanks in advance!
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I recently purchased a couple of UAV kits from Bryan, so I thought I'd document my installations. http://atariage.com/forums/gallery/album/2096-uav-installation/ Initially I found it difficult to find installation information, but I soon realised that it was in all the forums, it just wasn't all in the same place. The installation of the UAV mod in the XEGS was extremely easy. The most difficult part was deciding how I wanted to implement the mod, and my decision changed a few times and still is not yet complete. I usually want to keep my machines in mint condition, unless something about them indicates that its not really worth it...maybe a broken case, repaired electronics, or I have more than one machine of a particular type in my collection. In this case, the machine I chose to mod had already been repaired by me. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/258432-xegs-repair/?hl=%2Bhawk+%2Bxegs I had originally planned to remove the 4050 chip when I installed the UAV but realised that if I did that I would lose the RF output. I don't use the RF output if I can help it but I wasn't sure whether I wanted to totally remove it. From the monitor photos you'll see that I went to the trouble of replacing the original LCD driver board with a TV tuner LCD controller board. https://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-controller-board-Kit-diy-VGA-HDMI-USB-TV-for-LCD-LED-Display-Monitor-Panel/152446068465?hash=item237e7e66f1:g:PlsAAOSwdGFYxLsS that allowed me to use RF in for some of my older machines including my 400. I ended up soldering the socket that came with the UAV kit directly onto the pins of the 4050 chip and then plugging in the daughter board. It almost worked first time, however I hadn't realised that I had to provide a colour input signal to the daughter board. I removed the centre pin of the composite out socket from the motherboard and wired the UAV output directly to that. I also included the extra ground wire. I didn't have any small shielded cables so I used regular hookup wire. You'll see from the photos in the album that there was not a great difference in the compisite signal before and after the mod. To be honest, the image was pretty good to start with. However, the S-video output made a big difference. I'd forgotten that my LCD monitor couldn't handle S-video, so I had to test it out on a CRT TV. I had yet to take photos of the S-video. I am also deciding how to fit the S-video socket on the rear of the XEGS. The socket I was able to buy locally is not the one that I'd prefer so I'm putting off installing that for a little bit longer. I'll update again after I've completed that mod...then it will be on to the 400. The 400 will be delayed until I can receive an Audio mod card from Bryan so that I can also get sound after bypassing the RF.
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From the album: UAV Installation
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From the album: UAV Installation
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From the album: UAV Installation
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- Atari XEGS UAV video mod
- Atari
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Since I have begun dabbling in programming for the Atari 2600, I have become interested in running a PAL system for testing purposes. I have one wood-grain 4-switch NTSC VCS, and there are multiple PAL VCS's for sale on eBay at reasonable prices. My main question is about displaying the signal. I obviously don't have a PAL CRT, and the only way to get one would be to pay a fortune to ship one from across the pond. Not to mention that I would need to power it with the proper voltage at 50Hz. I have heard that the Commodore 64 1080/1084 monitors will accept PAL signals, though (I think), but getting a PAL CRT is pretty much out of the question for now. I was thinking of instead getting a signal converter so I could display the picture on a NTSC CRT, something like in this video. It seems too good to be true, but could something as inexpensive as this converter be all I need? One other question. I noticed that my power supply converts from 110V 60Hz to 9v DC. If I plug a PAL system into a US wall outlet, will it work properly? Or will I need a different power supply? I would assume that both NTSC and PAL systems run at 9V, but I may be wrong.
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Good day to you all! I've been pretty successful in modding old PAL 2600 Junior Consoles to Composite Output. But now I stumbled upon 1 (2 in fact) very stubborn one. I would be glad if you guys could help me troubleshoot this, and lend me some advice on how to find out what is broken. I already checked the usual stuff like power and power supply. It has 9v power and the led is also shining brightly red. The only problem is, there is no video output from it. It is the board revision F.1.1 (the other one is Rev F). There are no visible damaged components or capacitors so I am all out of ideas. I already made the Composite mod, to quickly check if there is any video output and the parts of the mod are all okay and working correctly, as I tested it on another console successfully. The strange thing is, R28 had a capacitor soldered onto the same pins as the resistor itself. I desoldered it and tried it again with no success. It looked like the one on C12 (yellow blob). So, to get to the point, is there anything I can check to find out what is wrong? I own a multimeter and all the tools necessary except for a logic analyzer or an oscilloscope. I would be endlessly glad if you could help me get to the root of this by any means, so I can gift another old console for Christmas. Thank you and best regards/great holidays. Fleder
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When assembling, there are several different screen enhancements that could use to make the experience more enjoyable. One way is to change the background and foreground colors. This is the shot from the previous installment: By pressing a certain key (or key combo) on the keyboard, it will bring up a screen saying what color you want to use. That screen might look something like this: As indicated on the screen, press 0-9 or A-F to choose the appropriate color. When you press one of these buttons, the color beside the "current" heading changes to the selected color. For example, if you press "3," while in the palette shown above, you will choose purple. You can also toggle between foreground/background color choice by pressing the "/" key. To change palettes, press up/down. There are seven different palettes, plus one palette you can customize. The chart below shows the seven fixed palettes: Each row is one palette, and each palette has a different theme. They are based on palettes from older gaming and computer systems. Palette 0 - Apple ][ Palette 1 - Commodore 64 Palette 2 - Mattel Aquarius Palette 3 - Commodore VIC-20 Palette 4 - MSX Palette 5 - CGA Palette 6 - ZX Spectrum Palette 7 can be defined using your own colors. Each color in every palette is stored as a 24-bit RGB value. I will get to palette 7 editing in another post. Using the Apple ][ palette, let's say you decide to change the background to dark blue and the foreground to aquamarine. This is the result: If you don't want to change the colors, hit the ESC key. This causes any changes to be cancelled, leaving the background/foreground colors as they are. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Another thing you could do is have some picture to look at while programming. To change the background to a picture, press a certain key combination. Pictures can be uploaded from flash drives. If you have a flash drive installed, it will list all the picture files on it. The screen would look like this: Press the appropriate button (0-9 or A-Z, depending on the number of pictures) to choose the picture. If there are too many picture files to fit on one page, press left or right to move to another page. For example, let's say you want to use the following image. It's the back of an old McCormick food coloring box from 1975. This picture was taken from Etsy: When pictures are loaded into memory, they are stored as 24-bit RGB values for simplicity of decoding. The picture is also scaled to a size of 480*360 so it can fit on the screen. The picture replaces the background color. Here's how the screenshot at the top of the page would look with this picture as the background: You can change the picture by going back to the picture menu. Plus, you can choose to go back to a solid color background by going to the background color change menu. The foreground color change menu works the same. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In addition to pictures, you could also use a video for the background. The video loops forever. Like with pictures, you could upload videos from a flash drive. They can be in any format, but each frame is converted to 24-bit RGB format before being displayed. Frames are buffered. You could also choose to play two or more videos in a continuous loop. After one video ends, the next one starts. After the last video, it wraps back to the first one and the cycle repeats forever. Next, I'll mention code-as-you-go, one of the most important aspects of this type of computer.
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What do you look for in a video game review show on YouTube and elsewhere? I'm thinking about starting one myself and I'm looking for ideas on what you the Atari age user would like to see in it. Are there any games that might not get enough coverage? Is there a certain style that's pleasing to you? Are there any YouTubers I should watch or avoid? I am very interested in everyone's input and am looking forward to hearing back from some of you. I'm just in the pre-production stage at the time I'm posting this (11/6/17),but I'll give you this much: The name of the channel and show will be The Matty Matt Show (stylized as Matty Matt) The review will be five minutes exact. (Trust me, I know how to get there ;3) The reviews will be family friendly. The games featured will cover the gambit from the 2600 and beyond (Perhaps throwing in some newer games and homebrews for older systems). I'd like to stick to multi player games, simultaneous or not. And I look to have a segment on the channel where I interview someone while playing the game with them.
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Wonder if you folks can help... I'm trying to restore a friend's 800, which is giving... well, just awful video. Using the RF mod, when powering on the 800, the screen definitely CHANGES, but the screen is close to static (you can almost see a distorted frame as the display cycles around). We attempted composite video from the 5-pin DIN, but didn't get much of a picture, although trying the O-scope on the composite port yielded the below picture; it's trying, but not giving a picture. We found the repair manual and followed the flowchart for grey/black screen, tracing all the clock pins (which all seemed to look OK). Pin 25 of the GTIA gives a nice clean (composite sync?) signal. Since the flowchart recommended replacing the GTIA, just in case, I bought a "known tested" CPU board from eBay, which gives the same results. So I don't think it's the GTIA, but maybe something in between it and the RF mod/DIN port. But I'm not sure what to check next. I found this schematic https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_06_2012/post-26063-0-46972400-1338873000.jpg, but it'll be mildly painful to trace the whole thing through and I'm not 100% sure what I'm looking for. Any suggestions for the next step? Thanks--it'd be quite a thrill to get this working again. Oh! One more clue (maybe?)--I haven't owned an 800, so I don't know; the speaker never seems to make any sound, either when powered on or when trying control-2 (which I hear buzzes). Is it supposed to? Not sure if that helps.
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I've got an older Odyssey 2 (the kind with the beige switchbox that it needs), and I'm having video trouble. I've attached a quick video of what it does. It looks like it switches on for a split second, turns off, repeat..? I had a buddy go over and check the power supply, check the traces on the board, and still no difference. We also tried tapping the RF directly off the internal RF convertor, bypassing the proprietary cable that comes off the back. I'm hoping this is a problem someone else has encountered.
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Help Needed: Troubleshooting 800XL monitor output
Ganesha303 posted a topic in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Hi guys! I dug out my 800XL from my mom's house this past week and hooked it up to my Plasma TV using one of these Atari to Composite cables: https://www.8bitclassics.com/Atari-800-XL-XE-5-Pin-DIN-S-Video-Cable.html?search=AXL-SVIDEO However I cannot get it to work. The 800XL power light comes on but the TV just says no signal. I tried with both composite (Yellow, Red, White) and S-Video connections on the cables, and also tried composite on another LCDTV in the house. I also have two of the same cable converters linked above and both had same results. Same thing for all tests, "no signal" on TV. I am not sure what to do next. Is it likely that there is an issue with the monitor out on the 800XL? Or is it just that my TV's cannot recognize the signal? Maybe I need a different converter? What steps should I take next? I appreciate your help 8-biters! Gabriel- 8 replies
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- 800XL
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Hello, today I became the brand new owner of a six switch atari 2600 which I got from an auction on ebay. I never owned an atari before, so I have a few questions about mine. When I got the system it was a little unstable, but that was fixed with a little solder to hold the power jack in place. Then I wasn't able to get a stable picture, but a bit of fiddling with the RF modulator and fine tuning the TV the atari is now functional, it however still has a few flaws. First, the sound doesn't really work, all I hear is loud static, I assume that this is due to the fact that my atari is from a PAL A region and my TV is PAL B. The colours are also off I think, combat game 0 is supposed to a beige(I think, I'm a little colourblind) but in my TV it's a puke green and neither of the tanks have any colour. Any help with these issues? I've attached a picture of combat game 0 as it appears on my TV. On a slightly different topic, I'm using the aerial lead that came stock with the system, but I'd like to have it output composite. If any of you have ever messed around with a ZX Spectrum there's a very simple composite mod and since both Spectrum and the 2600 use an RF modulator I was wondering if that mod would work on the 2600. Obviously it wouldn't have any sound, but I can always pull that out of some pad in the console if I'm not mistaken. The ZX Spectrum mod consists in disabling the RF modulator power supply and splicing the video input of the modulator and connecting it to a composite cable since the Spectrum RF modulator is converting composite to RF, is this also what's happening on the 2600? Thanks for reading all this, I'm a bit of a noob, I know.
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For years now I've been hoping to see a series like this for various retro computing platforms (Atari 800, Apple II, TRS-80 Model III, Fujitsu FM7, C64, VIC-20, Atari ST, TI-99, SG-3000, X68000, Acorn, BBC Micro, Color Computer, PC-88, Spectrum, Adam, etc...). https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLOT5j3ELi5BaSrb24fJEKvTqlRK4fg9wS In this case, it's for the Amiga. If others decide to make YouTube tutorial series' like this, please let me know. There are a bunch of platforms that I'd like to learn. And if someone can recommend a free video screen-capture utility that is Windows Vista compatible (and doesn't contain viruses), I may actually do more of these. Oh, and maybe an app that can add captions since YouTube is no longer offering annotation and captioning services as part of their site tools.