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Does anyone have them around in the UK ? I tried buying one from eBay, but it was being sold by a Polish guy from Germany - who said basically that the cost of shipping it is going to be high. Still waiting for him to come back to me, but in the meantime I was wondering if anyone has them in the UK? I couldn't find anything on ebay .
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Friday rainy day project = Fit Ultimate 1MB into my 65XE Remake. Not being happy with the pillar style of mounting the U1MB and that I was only able to find a mounting bracket for the 800XL ( Jeff Thiele Design ), using this as a basis I designed one specifically for the XE models. Like the 800XL version, it only uses the one PCB mount screw to hold it in place, it also has a very small bump to locate it into the RF sheild PCB through hole and to hold it square. Being offset means you can still unscrew it from the main XE PCB with out having to unmount the U1MB from the Mount. I have uploaded the STL to Thingiverse for those wanting to print their own. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6009020 Enjoy
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Does anyone know of a good drop-in replacement for the color/tint trimmer pot on the 130XE? The one in the pictures has ‘500K’ stamped on it. Does that mean ‘500 kOhms’? I am working on a 130XE that does a random bad color shift every so often. I can usually get the colors back normal by painstakingly adjusting the tiny color pot via the little hole on the underside of the case. I was planning to install a UAV so I did so hoping maybe the UAV would not be impacted by the original color pot. However it is impacted just as before… an unexpected color shift kind of at random maybe once every 30 minutes which can be temporarily fixed by tweaking with the color pot. I took the pot off, disassembled, cleaned it and put it back together and soldered it back on. The pot action is much better now, it’s a lot easier to adjust with a much greater range of color/tints to choose from. However I am not sure I eliminated the random color shifts… rather I only made them easier to adjust when they occur. So to be safe I am looking for a replacement part. Bonus question… did Atari use the same trimmer pot on all the 8bits? If yes I’ll order more than one new one. Color/tint trimmer pot is the one painted pink at R38 pot removed (top) pot removed (bottom) with UAV installed.
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Dear Atari-Friends, Now that the ABBUC SW-Contest is finished, I am glad to present to you an extended Version of the contest runner up, now available for PAL/NTSC systems as free download. - there is a recommended 128k RAM version, which inlcudes a nice additional 3D rendered 256 color animation. In principle, this version will also run on any 48k/64k RAM A800 or XL, but will not be able to play back the 3D animation unless you have 128k RAM. BreakIt22Extended128k.xex - for reduced loading time on stock 800/XLs, there is also a 48k RAM version, which is identical except that it does not include the 3D animated scene, which does not play anyway on 48k/64kRAM machines. BreakIt22Extended48k.xex Compared to the initial ABBUC SW-contest, the here released extended version has the following addiiiotnional featues: - 12 additional theme-levels, reminding of Jump Man, Bruce Lee, Mario, Space Invaders, Pack Man, Pitfall, etc., just in time for the Atari 50 year aniversary 🙂 - 256-Color 3D-Animation Intro (plays on 128k machines, such as 130XE, or XL with equivalent RAM extension) - Various in-game music themes The game itself is a color and action loaded remake of Arkanoid, coming with additional power-ups, new levels, many many colors, combinable power-ups, and very lively game flow and speed. The current 2022 version supports Paddle/Mouse/Stick/Keyboard controls (cursor left/right & shift). The supported power-ups are as follows: • B: „Bomb“ - removes blocks one by one automatically, but the ball still has to be kept in the game • 😄 „Catch“ - allows to catch the ball and release it by the trigger • E: „Extend“ - increses the pad size • L: „Laser“ - allows to shoot at blocks • M: „Madness“ - makes the ball dance around like mad, but will remove several surronding blocks if activated in the right moment • P: „Pad“ - extra live • S: „Slow“ - slows down the ball • T: „Triple“ - splits into three balls • W: „Wall“ - keeps back the ball, but fades away with every hit of the ball • X: „Xplode“ - splits into three balls, once an enemy is hit • @: „@!#%“ - destroys the pad and will cost a live I hope you like the present version and have some fun, OliverNach obe
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130XE that was upgraded to 320K (sometime in the past) exhibiting intermittent RAM Test Failures. Sometimes it passes, sometimes one block fails and sometimes a different block fails. I've cleaned the board with alcohol and replaced the main filter cap, C1. Power supply is new from Brewing Academy. I reflowed the power switch connection, removed the SIO caps and reflowed one loose bodge wire. But I haven't touched the rest of the bodge wires yet. It looks like I'd have to remove and replace most of them since they are so tight against the chip connections. Photos are attached for your entertainment. Any advice in troubleshooting (or an alternate path for repair/upgrade) is welcome. Note: This machine has a Omniview ROM with a selector switch mounted in the case. Note 2: I've been using Side3 with this machine. When cold, the machine will boot to Side3 SpartaDOS, Atari stock OS, Omniview XE OS or a Qix 8 Bit game cart just fine. But it has a heck of a time booting to the Side3 Loader screen until the computer has been on for a few minutes. Even when warmed up sometimes the machine will lock up or not load games.
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Hi, I've just bought 2 power supplies for my Atari 130XE and my Atari 800XE as I lost my previous power supplies during moving. I've bought the new power supplies from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/324218268282 Now, this seller has MANY positive reviews and experience, so I'm probably reading every schematic / pinout wrong. The adapters do look hand made though - the connector part - maybe a mistake was made. I've connected both supplies to my 130XE, and nothing. No signal, completely dead. Ok, I've tried the 800XE. Same, dead. I've measured the power supply and it gives 5volts, it is rated at 1amp. Still nothing. But then, I started noticing the polarity might be wrong. It's reversed from just about any picture / pinout I can find. So I've opened the computer and measured. Please see photo attached. Is this the correct polarity, and my Ataris just died, or is the polarity reversed? If reversed, did I just kill my computers?:( Thank you all a lot.
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Dear 8-bitters Your advice on which Atari micro to purchase would be greatly appreciated! I thinking of getting back into the Atari 8-bit scene and plan using the machine with some regularity but am not sure if I should go with an Atari 130XE or Atari 800. To me the Atari 800 is very special indeed as it was my first micro computer so it holds an enormous sentimental place in my heart but then again I might be better off with a machine that has more RAM, has BASIC built-in and can enjoy a larger software base. In addition to this, I would like to get one of those newer hardware add-ons like the FujiNet which I know very little about but keep hearing about or an SIO to SD type of device, something I have also only heard about. The plan is to avoid the need for a floppy drive on either system and if I can load software from the LAN it would be pretty incredible. Can both the 800 and 130XE benefit from either of these hardware add-ons? Can the Atari 800 enjoy a RAM upgrade today and is it relatively affordable? What advice would you offer? Kind regards —Alex
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SOLD! For sale is a MINT, NOS Atari 130XE. This was purchased new from B&C, and used only to test the modifications. This is a PAL computer but because it has the DVI output, it can be used in US/Canada to play all the European games/demos, etc. that depend on PAL! I've used it with Dell S24221 new monitor as well as the classic Dell 2001FP, and the picture is perfect. Here is everything included in the sale: 1. NOS PAL Atari 130XE Computer itself, with professionally installed sockets for GTIA, MMU, ROM and POKEY 2. NEW, latest version, Ultimate 1Mb installed 3. NEW, latest version, Sophia 2 DVI installed, and DVI port mounted in the back - soldiered to the motherboard for a solid connection 4. NEW PokeyMAX V2 sound chip, full version (Quad + Covox). It is installed in the socket and fully working, but not connected, so it currently functions as a Pokey mono replacement. I can replace it with the original NOS Pokey for a $75 discount on the total price 5. NEW SIDE3 cart included - this is the ultimate (pun intended?) combination, allowing for full PBI: hard disk emulation, cart emulation, SDX DOS, etc. 6. NEW power supply from Brewing Academy 7. Original box and manual The computer looks and works perfectly! Looking for $650 + shipping from Charlotte, NC, US. Paypal or local exchange.
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I have an abused 130XE that was failing memory testing. I removed all the RAM and went back with sockets. I now have the first bank of RAM in place and thought I would test before the 2nd bank is in (because I have not soldered the sockets yet on the 2nd bank). Will a 130XE boot with only a single bank of RAM (essentially with 64K instead of 128K)? OR do you need to make a mod to do so?
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I have a 130XE that boots straight to the memory test and shows all red and some orange (instead of green). Before I unsolder, socket and replace the 16 memory chips I wanted to ask if there are other memory options for the 130XE. Questions: 1) Could I just install an Ultimate 1MB upgrade? OR does U1MB require the underlying default 64K (or 128K) to be available and functioning? 2) I see the '64k SRAM Module for XL/XE' upgrade on The Brewing Company site. Could I use this to get to 64K of RAM and just leave my faulty RAM on the board? Obviously this would only give me 64K rather than 128K but then I suppose U1MB could be installed. 3) Other options short of replacing the original 16 memory chips?
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Hi; So I hauled out my 8-bit collection (that has been modded for various reasons back when I used it heavily back in the '90s). I have forgotten soooo much! This 8-bit stuff got me through a dissertation, online database searching and early attempts at running a profession-related BBS before the Internet was ubiquitous. Current problem. I'm trying to efficiently figure out what to do to resurrect a 130XE that currently only boots to a blank green screen. I noted that a different computer (Also Atari 8-bit) booted to green screen when the ribbon cable for the keyboard was badly inserted (a corner was folded over itself...straightening that out allowed it to boot correctly, but that was not the problem with the unit at hand). First question: I have a pretty horrid/beat up 65XE that I was thinking I might scavenge for parts/chips, BUT other than memory are the 65XE chips the same as the 130XE? Next question: Is there a step-by-step logical process for teasing out the most efficient process for diagnosing/repairing the green screen issue? Thanks Stuff I have on hand... CSS Black Box with Floppy Board (Bob Puff was my main go-to guy back in the day!) SpartaDOS X with R-time-8 cartridge 130XE with 320 RAM upgrade/Multiplexer OS (in good working order) 130XE with a ROM board/switch that can switch/boot between 3 different chips (this is the machine with the problem) 800XL standard/good working order 65XE with horrid case and keyboard with many dead keys (I might be brave/foolhardy enough to try and desolder this for parts). 1050 disk drive XF551 disk drives (2) Hard drive with various Sparta/MyDOS boot partitions and utilities. Various game cartridges and 8-bit software mostly on 5.25 disks.
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Hello guys! I need your help Atari 800, ATARI 800XL/600XL owners! If you guys own a caliber I urgently need to know which size in millimeters (or even better in keycaps unit 1U) the following keys: ATARI 800: - CONTROL key (to my measurements using pictures found on internet) 1.5U - LSHIFT key 1.75U as well as the RSHIFT - FUNCTION KEYS (Select, Start...) 1.5U - CLR SET TAB key 1.5U - RETURN key 1.5U ATARI 800XL - CONTROL key 2.0U - LSHIFT key 2.25U - RSHIFT key 2.0U - CAPS LOWR key 1.25U - RETURN key 1.75U - ESC key 1.25U - FUNCTION KEYS are spaced as 1U keysize. The only correct keyboard I can check is the Atari 130XE style... In attachment the PDF layouts of those keycaps (used by MaxKeyboard) and the keysize in keycap units. Please help me, Gianluca atari-800-xl-style-maxkeyboard.pdf atari-xe-style-maxkeyboard.pdf
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Got a display cabinet from a garage sale (IKEA DETOLF) for only $10. I think it looks pretty good. Sadly the 800 didn't fit. Quite happy with my XEs all fitting though! (Will post more about some of these items in the future) ;-)
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Atari 130XE 4164 best replacement or upgrade RAM chips?
E474 posted a topic in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Hi, I recently got a couple of "dead" 130XE's thrown in as part of a deal. The first 130XE only powers the RED keyboard LED, and doesn't output a TV signal (can't be found with the TV's auto-tune). It's also playing dead when I try it with a SysCheck board, so I am putting it aside for the moment. The second 130XE can be tuned in, but gives no picture. When I try it with a SysCheck board, I get U14 marked as bad. So, I need to get some more RAM chips. Is there any reason I should get anything other than 4164 dips? What I'm trying to ask is, are there any mods that involve replacing the 4164 chips with some other chips, giving more available memory? I'm guessing that this would be the ideal time to do such an upgrade, rather than ordering a load of 4164's that I don't need. I should point out both 130XE's have 16*4164 chips, so I would probably order 32 * 4164 to simplify shipping, etc. My plan is to just replace the defective U14, but I don't know if the other bank of memory (the extra 64K of a 130XE) has defects (I don't think this is tested by the SysCheck board - though I think it should be!). I don't think I can test this until U14 has been replaced. Although I have seen a lot of advice saying it's best to replace all the RAM chips, I don't want to do this unless absolutely necessary, as they are all soldered on. On the other hand, if there is a mod that involves replacing them all with another set of RAM chips, this might be a good time to do so (if you see what I mean). Finally, the second 130XE runs quite well with the SysCheck board plugged in (I'm really pleased with the SysCheck board, btw). I was playing Mercenary on it (48K and high res versions) from disk, and the keyboard is fine, apart from the 'H' and 'J' keys not working. I'm tempted to try swapping the keyboard from the set aside 130XE, but I don't want to do too much unplugging/plugging as I have heard that 130XE keyboards can be quite fragile. Any advice on the best RAM chips, and keyboard swapping strategy would be appreciated. Thanks! -
According to the Atari Museum, the 800XE wasn't such a great machine. To put it more bluntly, it sounds like it's the mongrel/bastard of an already cheapened 8-bit line. Atari Museum quote: "The Atari 800XE was the last of the XE line of computer systems. Having said this it would be assumed that such a system would be the most reliable and well designed system. However the 800XE turned out to be more of exercise of simply using up existing spare parts and dumping them onto the European market. The 800XE is plagued with timing issues, incompatibilities and poor reliability since its chipsets are a mis-match of various revision levels and some of the semiconductor components were not within spec or were poor quality components which failed to meet their own spec's. While the 800XE was produced in small numbers and in the European market, it may be a nice item to add to a collection, but a 130XE is a better choice to actually use in a productive manner." I'm interested in hearing from 800XE owners as to their personal experiences with these machines, if they mirror what's said about them in the Atari Museum quote. Are they really this bad? If they are, how much work is necessary to get one into satisfactory condition?
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The other day a friend was over and we were testing an Indus drive that he fixed up with my 130XE. The drive worked fine and we loaded up a RAM Test program since it was on the test disk. Much to my surprise, the program reported that I had bad RAM at location 01F6 (502 decimal). I ran the internal ROM test and I got this result: There is a white box on the first row. It's the sixth box from the right-hand side. (It might be hard to see in this picture). This means I have bad RAM, right? I re-ran the memory tester today and the RAM now turns out okay, as in these three pictures: According to "Mapping the Atari," decimal memory location 502 is part of the stack for the OS. I tried POKE and PEEK commands there from BASIC, but I get unexpected results (which, I think is normal). I'd like to run a burn in RAM test program, probably overnight, that will test all 128K of my 130XE. Can anyone recommend such a program to me? Adam
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I recently managed to snag an Atari 8-Bit lot at an estate sale. I mostly bought it for the accessories it came with (since I already have an 800), but it also came with a 130XE. However, when I turn it on, it boots to the self-test. I pulled it apart and noticed the 320k upgrade had been done to it (according to a sharpie label on the RF shield, it was done in July, 1987). How do I interpret the memory test? Is there any set of steps I should take to try and fix this? I've attached pictures of the mod and the memory test screen (the white box one being tested in the photo passed).
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Ok all... please be gentle as I'm way out over my skis here! Lol. I've been an avid late 80's/Early 90's 286-486 PC collector for some time and have been interested in getting into Atari's 8-bit machines for a while but haven't taken the plunge. Well, I stumbled across this lot in a box at Savers today and couldn't leave it there as I never see stuff like this in the wild. Problem is, I have no idea what I'm getting into! From what I can tell both the 800 and 130XE have been modified. The 130XE has an Omnimon board by David Young but it won't boot... I tried both the 'Monitor' out and RF and both screens look the same. The 800 boots but keys "esc through 6" on the top row are unresponsive, could be something simple but I haven't cracked it open to see what's going on. I started to open it and found what looks like additional RAM/ROM and figured it was time to post pictures and get some more information from the experts. Excited to learn but a little overwhelmed with them already being modded. I'd love to sort the 130XE and fire up some games. And sorry about the PCjr looming in the background!
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I purchased an Atari 130XE on Ebay back in 2001 and used it quite a bit for a couple of years until I upgraded my PC and no longer had a serial port and couldn't use APE as a file server. It has been put up since 2002/3 and when I got it out recently to try out again, I discovered the video is trash. I didn't show the RF video but it looks like the composite photos only more blurry. Below are photos of the Pac-Man title screen and the boot screen in composite and s-video (custom cable using chroma and luma signals) and I have also included the same screens from my Sophia DVI mode for reference. Pardon the "Input out of range" box in the middle of the Sophia photos. My monitor doesn't like the signal. Can someone give me suggestions on why my Composite and separated video look like crap? The chroma/luma (separated or S-Video) video jumps and displays wavy color distortions like RF interference but this wasn't present when I packed up the computer in the early 2000s. Prior to packing up, the composite was the video mode I used most and it looked good. Now it's vertical gray bars. Could this all be due to the RF Modulator going south on me? I understand some signals (composite) come from the modulator but can that also inject color garbage into the CHROMA signal? Boot screen using bad s-video (chroma/luma separated video) (custom cable) Boot screen using bad Composite (should be blue but has gray bars) Boot screen from Sophia DVI (monitor shows input out of range error) Pac-man title using bad S-video/separated video Pac-man title using bad composite video Pac-man title using Sophia DVI (monitor doesn't like DVI signal)
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I recently got my old first computer out of storage. It's a 130xe and it's been dead for 30 years, and I wanted to repair it. It shows a solid black screen when running. I ran a logic analyzer across a variety of pins on the system to see what seemed to be working. The address and data lines across all ram chips, the sally, antic, and gtia all seem to be good. The BASIC chip also has solid connectivity to these lines. The OS Rom chip was socketed by the former owner of the machine (I bought it in 1986 used,) and most of the pins on this socket aren't making contact to the address and data lines. This is likely the cause of the fault in the system. The socket doesn't seem to be gripping the pins very well and the chip comes out a bit too easily. But the other thing I found is that P5 on ANTIC, which goes to P20 on GTIA, and P23 on GTIA are all solid logic low, when the Sam's guide says they should be going back and forth between low and high. Most of the other pin the wave form is provided for seem to have good signals on the analyzer. (I don't have a scope to verify the waveforms though.) Would the OS chip being disconnected cause it to be a solid black screen all on its own, or could there be some other problems with the GTIA and ANTIC? I'm going to be ordering a new socket for that (and maybe a new ROM, just to be safe,) and wanted to order any other chips that could be bad at the same time so I don't need to wait around twice if the first thing doesn't fix it. (I already have sockets for the RAM chips, and new ram chips on the way, since I figured this is a common failure mode with a MT ram based 130xe's.)
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I took a chance on an 130XE on eBay no video cable or power supply. I have tested it with the power supply I made for my 800XL and the video cable from the same that only has composite video and audio. If I buy a cable that has separate luma and chroma, that should improve the video, right? Thevideo is already better than on the 800XL, but since I need to buy a cable anyway, I want to get something optimal.
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Hi guys, I got myself an Atari 130 XE recently (after a 20 year gap) and I finally found the time to open it to see the conditions inside. I found a couple of hacky looking wires in there and I haven't a clue what do these fix / improve. Can someone here recognize it as a typical mod / fix? Thanks for any comments!
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Does anyone know if there is a working version of Rogue for Atari 8 bit computers? (not A-Rogue, but Rogue) The only versions I've found are .cas and .xex and none of them work properly/fully in emulation on Atari800MacX or on my stock 130XE (the .xex files; no real, hardware cassette option): all of the versions of the games play but none allow you to access your pack*, the contents of which are fairly important for the function of this game. Am I missing a control option? Are the commonly circulating copies flawed or "incomplete-ware"? This looks like it could be an amazing game. According to what I could find this game should be compatible with 400/800, XL and XE. Thank you very much for reading and considering my question! Thank you for any help or insight you all might have! Apologies if there is an answer to this question posted previously elsewhere; I searched google, AA and atarimania and some .rom and .xex sites but could find little more than the non functioning versions of Rogue and 1 youtube depicting Rogue working on an Atari 8 bit computer. * To clarify, when the white cursor + symbol is moved over the pack contents nothing happens; there is no menu popping up for accessing/using the pack item contents.
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A couple of weeks ago I purchased a beaten set of 8bit machines. One of them, a 130XE, booted into an unknown (to me that is) OS: After booting the ROM, the machine doesn't respond to anything, but the RESET button. I've contacted a couple of folks that could know more about this, but that came up empty, hence this post. A couple more shots of the inside of the system with things that stood out (to me): Anyone got some more info on this? I plan on creating a dump somewhere next week, but any info on the ROM is welcome. Kind regards, Senor Rossie P.S. Happy New Year !