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Found 46 results

  1. Hi, some years ago I gave a promise to an ABBUC member to make a video-out solution for his Atari 400 without the need of changing parts, scratching conducting paths or any other destructive mod to his Atari 400. He´s a real "hardcore" collector with no way in give-and-take regarding this point. After tinkering around with an "add-on" PCB for the GTIA socket I failed, because there´s not enough space. Of course - from a collector´s view - it´s a No-Go to remove the metal cabinet, so I decide to create a complete new CPU board with the needed components directly on it. I´ve reached the goal by 99%. A very little bit of soldering is required and the need to drill one hole into the metal assembly - the shielded video cable needs a place to break out, there´s no way else than making a new 5 mm hole somehwere in the upper part of the metal assembly. So here´s my solution: The Super Color CPU Card for Atari 400 and Atari 800 systems This PCB is a complete replacement for the original CPU card in any Atari 400 or 800 using PAL or NTSC. This PCB works NOT with SECAM. You are able to use both CPU-types found in the Atari 400 and Atari 800 series, the standard 6502B MOS CPU (without HALT signal) and the Atari-specialized version 6502C, also called "Sally". Chips (CPU, ANTIC and CTIA or GTIA) are not included and must be pulled of the built-in Atari CPU card. But they are always in sockets, so it´s easy. Circuitry on this PCB is nearly 100% the same like at the genuine Atari CPU card with some changes to make it possible to use both CPU types. You only need to set five jumpers to select the desired CPU type. Addiitonal the PAL color clock generation circuit is onboard for PAL systems. There´s a seperate jumper to select PAL or NTSC - this jumper connects the GTIA "PALC" pin to either the output of the PAL color clock generator or directly to 3,57 MHz system clock (NTSC). Only for clarifying this: You can´t just switch the jumper and make a NTSC system to a PAL computer or vice versa. At least you´ve to change ANTIC, GTIA and of course the system clock crystal at the mainboard At least a third jumper block (not existing an the prototype shown on the picture above) enables/disables the 75 Ohm termination resistors for Luma, Chrominance or CVBS output. This setting must be tested depending on the connected monitor or television - sometimes the picture quality is better with, sometimes without termination resistors. The video out solution is based on the Atari 800 XL video circuitry without mixing Luma and Chroma together. Of course the well-known mods are already integrated. The final signals are amplified and filtered by the Fairchild FMS6410 VideoAmp. This chip also generates the CVBS signal. So you can use either S-Video (Y/C) for best picture quality or CVBS for common monitors and televisions which doesn´t accept S-Video (Y/C) input. Please notice: This video solution can´t performing magic. I test it on different computer monitors and televisions. The best performance - as ever in every setting with old computers - will be shown on CRT (tube) monitors or televisions. Of course for Atari 400 owners EVERYTHING is better than the antenna (RF) output, but don´t expect a higher quality than the regular Atari 800 S-video output. It might be better, but I can´t promise. That´s impossible by the dozens of different monitors, cables, T.V. systems and so on. Scope of delivery One PCB "Super Color CPU Card" for Atari 400 or Atari 800 computers, capable using 6502B or 6502C CPU, runs on PAL or NTSC systems A manual (illustrated installation instructions) in german and english (sent by email with shipping out notice) One DIN connector 5 pin to lead out the video signals (optional for Atari 800 users) approx 50 cm shielded cable for video out approx 50 cm shielded cable for internal audio connection (optional for Atari 800 users) I offer two versions of the PCB "Standard" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, standard HASL surface (as shown in the picture above) "Gold" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, gold-finished (ENIG) surface (like my Sys-Check and many other solutions) The ENIG (gold-finished) surface is more rugged against rust and fouling. Because the naked PCB price doubles when choosing ENIG at this board size, I offer two versions. Prices One "Standard" PCB = 48 Euros each One "Gold" PCB = 59 Euros each Registered and insured shipping 1 or 2 piece(s) worldwide = 9 Euros Registered and insured shipping 3 or 4 pieces worldwide = 12 Euros More than 4 pieces or specialized = please ask Info: After some bad experiences with some postal services I only ship insured now. Time schedule I will collect orders and payments until the end of January, the 22.th 2017 (GMT) At the end of January I will order the parts and PCBs Assembling and shipping out can take up to 6 weeks, because there´s no holidays for me, assembling will be done in my spare time Depending on shipping time you will get your PCB(s) in March or April 2017 - This is the worst case, but I won´t promise things I can´t realize. So this is a safe suggestion. First payment, first serve: I can´t make all PCBs at one time, so small batches will be made. Date & Time of cleared payment sets the order of shipping out Please sent me a PM (personal message) or leave a post in this thread. You will get an answer soon. Practical hints for Atari 400 users The Atari 400 hasn´t any S-Video/CVBS output and no standard monitor jack, just an antenna (RF) cable. This cable is replaceable, so the best way is to remove the whole cable. You can use the hole in the case where the antenna cable was now for the new video out cable. At the end a standard DIN 5 pin connector coupling is applied. You can use ANY standard CVBS or S-Video cable made for any Atari XL or XE (or the Atari 800) to connect your Atari 400 to a monitor or television. The sound signal must be clamped from the main PCB. Nothing is destructive, only two solder drops at the mainboard of your Atari 400 must be made and one hole with ~5 mm diameter must be drilled in the metal cage for leading the video cable out. Practical hints for Atari 800 users Remark: The Atari 800 has already a quite good video output (S-Video). The CVBS output ranges something in the middle of existing video solutions. The need of my Super Color CPU card isn´t really mandatory for an Atari 800 owner, but it CAN improve video quality. Of course without any promises. I repeat that to make this point of view clear for all interests. The first option is to go ahead like the Atari 400 user. Replace the antenna cable with the new video cable. The existing monitor connector is always out of function when replacing the Atari CPU card with my Super Color CPU Card. Second option for Atari 800 users is to use the existing monitor jack with the new Chroma, Luma and CVBS signal. For this purpose the best way is to bend away the three connections from the mainboard to the power-PCB transmitting these three signals. This is reversible, non-destructive and needs only four additional drops of solder at the monitor jack. The manual will show how to do and also point at the junctions where to grab the audio signal, too. If you want, the external monitor DIN 5 pin coupling connector is already soldered. Leave your wish with your order, otherwise I will ask when confiming your payment. Any questions? Feel free to ask Jurgen
  2. Hung on my wall for many years - recently photographed and restored best I can. http://imgur.com/QL3JYQn Perhaps one day I will recreate in glorious vector. Originally created by: THE COMPUTER CENTER Millrock Rd. Old Saybrook, CT 06475 203-385-1587 ATARI hardware & software. Programming seminars, books, magazines, T.I., Northstar.
  3. WHAT IS IT? 'Atari 800 - Best Game Pack' is an All-In-One game pack includes the best Atari 8-bit games, screenshots, adverts, covers, manuals, the spreadsheet of high scores club and easy-to-use front-end. The objectives of the game pack are 'Preservation of best Atari 8-bit games and their database' and 'Providing user friendly front-end for running games and accessing database'. DOWNLOAD - Click here to download the latest version SCREENSHOTS - Click here to see screenshots in the official blog LICENSE - Freeware (Commercial use prohibited) SOFTWARE DEVELOPMENT TEAM - starwindz (Front-end programming, Games and database integration) - Paul 'Mclane' Irvine (Software test, Feature recommendation, General advice) - Greyfox (Logo creation, General advice) IMPORTANT LINKS - Official development blog - Official manual FEATURES - All-In-One! No other installations needed. - Atari 800 emulators(Altirra, Atari800Win Plus) included - No setup needed. Just extract a .7z file and run main executable - Includes top 600+ Atari 8-bit games mentioned on atarimania.com and atariage.com forum - Includes screenshots and extra data from gamebase(by Mark Hardnman) and atarimania (Adverts, Covers, Manuals) - Searches and displays High Scores - Spreadsheet (Original version made by champions_2002 and now it will be updated by me.) - Displays atarimania user scores and comments - Game browsers to select a game while seeing multiple screenshots - User created game list - Random game selection - And more...
  4. From the album: Atari 800 Keyboard Fix

    Turns out this approach allows for some pretty frantic Defender or Dropzone
  5. From the album: My Collection

    It's funny how the Atari 8-Bit is both the smallest and largest, how greedy.
  6. Hi all, Now my 1200XL has had it's Ultimate 1MB fitted my 800 with Incognito is now for sale. It's a PAL machine with the latest firmware, in excellent condition bar a small (and I mean small) nick in the top cover as seen in the last photo. Absolute beauty with no yellowing, supplied as bare machine as I'm sure you'll have your own power supply and monitor cable I will include the 1GB CF card, full of Atari goodness! Price for AA members is £200 GBP plus postage if needed (I'm in the United Kingdom), I will ship anywhere in the world, as long as you pay the postage and any customs charges! If you want any more pictures or have any questions please ask. Thanks to you for looking and thanks to AA for use of the site. Cheers Dom
  7. Shouting from the rooftops for a fourth run of Incognito's. Oh, Candle... Hear our prayer.
  8. Hello, If anybody would like to sell one of their boards I would be very happy, thanks.
  9. Hi, Last night I pulled out my family's Atari 800, so that we can play some M.U.L.E. and Dog Daze over the holidays (it's a kind of holiday tradition -- we've been very fortunate with how well the machine has held up over the last 34 years). Unfortunately, I ran into an issue last night. Would anyone on this forum be able to help ID the problem based on my description below? I'm trying to figure out the extent or cause of the problem. The machine boots up initially just fine, and will go to a DOS command screen (if the disk starts there), or to a "Game List" screen (not sure if that's what it's called), if it starts there. It will even begin loading a game ok ("beep beep beep", etc.). BUT -- as soon as it starts the game's graphics and/or sound for half a second, the screen freaks out -- lots of ghost images plastered around the screen, off-set graphic text, partially loaded images, etc., and it freezes. I tried hitting start, just to see if it can continue even w/weird graphics, and that's a no go. I also tried this with a dozen different disks & games, and it was all pretty much the same. Given that the problem seems to begin when there is more memory intensive stuff going on, I am guessing (unfortunately) this is a memory chip or CPU issue. But I know very little about the insides of an Atari 800 -- as I say, we've been blessed with 30+ years of a (mostly) functioning machine. Any guesses on the issue here? I can post more info if that helps, too, just let me know. Thanks in advance for your help! I hate to be a newbie on a forum just asking for help w/o any help to offer others, and with much more limited knowledge. So thank you for your patience! Looking forward to learning. -Josh
  10. Hi folks! I have an old Atari 800 computer with a 1050 Disk Drive and haven't messed with them in years. I recently set things up and the computer comes on just fine...cartridges boot just fine and games can be played as usual...without cartridges, Memo Pad comes up as expected. When I hook up the 1050, put in a disk of any kind, DOS, blank, bootable files, I get the same result...computer drops into Memo Pad and no disk access occurs (without cartridges), or pops into BASIC with that cartridge installed, but, again, no disk access of any kind occurs. If I have the "READY" prompt in BASIC, and type "DOS" it drops into Memo Pad. If I type a LOAD command with the correct syntax, I get an ERROR 130. What do you suppose is the problem? I have 3 different i/o cables and the results are the same with all three. Do I have a bad circuit board? Keyboard works, sounds and graphics all work. I am puzzled. Thanks in advance for the help!
  11. Originally posted here: FifthPlayer, on 23 Sept 2018 - 11:32 AM, said: I realized this was the cool ability I discovered while hacking Miner 2049er where they had the green helmet for Bounty Bob. I'd love to add this ability to the Moon Patrol sprite hack we are doing. I work mostly with hex editors so I was wondering what this PRIOR register would look like in hex? I found this reference on De Re Atari: Another question I have is: would the fifth bit also be the fifth mode? If so D6 and D7 would be 00? But the main question so I can search for it in the code is what the hex code would be for the PRIOR statement? ------- Below is the graphics hack of Moon Patrol for the Atari 800 where the colors and sprites have already been altered. Combined color would offer a third color for the windshield on the moon buggy. Here is the rom if you'd like to reference it for the above question on the PRIOR statement: moon-test-n2b.bin
  12. Price doesn't include shipping, but will entertain any reasonable offer Cleaned, tested, works 100% perfectly fine. Power supply is not pictured, but will be included with purchase. If you're interested please PM me as I'm more apt to see it
  13. The Adventures of Bounty Bob, brave Cananian Mountie on the trail of Yukon Yohan. Bounty Bob, who looks neither like a Mountie, nor like the miner on the box covers and as the title would suggest. Until now. With sprite designs by TIX, and sprite hacks by your's truly, I introduce to you the burley Miner 2049er! Click here to download Prior revisions and the thread on how this was hacked here
  14. I have Atari 800 keys available for sale. All keys are available. They are $0.35 each plus shipping. US shipping is $2.54. International shipping is $12.99. If you are interested PM me. Thanks.
  15. Hi again I've acquired a PAL version Atari 800, but am trying to get to the bottom of its booting up into a red screen. Removing and reseating the RAM boards one-by-one has no effect, and neither does trying to run Star Raiders. This makes me think that either the ROM board is bust (the chip marked CO12399B at position A402 started to get a bit warm) or there's something wrong withg the power supply (it's a Tadmod 9.5V one - I don't have a voltmeter to hand so can't test it at the moment). So - I'm wonderihng whether there's anyone who have these components to hand and is willing to lend or sell them to me so that I can try swapping them out. If you're within travelling distance (I'm in Manchester, UK) then I'm happy to bring my unit down and try it on the spot. Alternatively, if there's any diagnostic checks that you think I've missed out then feel free to throw them in. Cheers folks!
  16. I scored a great deal yesterday on an Atari 800 computer with a boxed 1050 disk drive, 810 disk drive, the Communicator, Numerical Keypad, with some books and carts. The only thing wrong with it is that it's missing the letter "A" on the keyboard. Does anyone have an extra letter "A" key cap they would be willing to send to me? The keyboard works great. it's just missing this key. I took a picture of another key cap in case there are different types. Thanks.
  17. Ogien

    AtariKeyboard

    From the album: Scratchpad

    Missing 8 Key from my Atari 800
  18. So I got my father's Atari 800 out again recently, and tried to start figuring out just what upgrades he had done to it, and how they might be useful. He told me at one point, and this was something like 30 years ago, that he was trying to get the 800 so that it would work like an XL (I had the 800 XL). The OS board has had work done on it, and the #2 memory card has a switch. Using SysInfo, it shows a 1920K (!) Axlon RAM bank. Searching AtariAge last night, I couldn't find a way to get into that bank for testing it, but I was able to use a couple of ATR files off of my SIO2SD to get it to successfully create a RAM disk. But I still have no idea what the actual capacity is. Here are some photos. All cards in the Atari 800 with the top off. OS Board RAM from slot 1 RAM from slot 2, with physical switch
  19. I'm closing a deal right now to get a working Atari XE game system. While it should contain Missile Command, Flight Simulator II and Bug Hunt, I'm looking at some Atari 8-bit cartridges to get along with some XE games. There's quite a bit of overlap out there as some of the 8-bit cartridges are games I already own for the 2600 and 7800. So I'll throw this question out to you Atari 8-bit enthusiasts. What are some good Atari 8-bit cartridges to get?
  20. http://youtu.be/7wGdWxKfN10 The purpose of this competition is to have fun, share your experiences with others and test your skill at surviving in one of the greatest, most challenging, ground-breaking sandbox RPG games of the 20th century, Alternate Reality: The City for Atari 800. All players will receive a rank and posting of their highest character, so post your screenshots and participate! See rules, tips, and survival guide below. Automate playing on PC using the AR Wrapper: http://www.giors.com...oadarwrappernow (Right click AR Wrapper and Atari800Win in subfolder, select Properties, Compatibility tab, and select XP SP3, and Run as Admin on both) (To learn how to manually play Alternate Reality on your PC or MAC : click here) CURRENT PLAYER RANKINGS #1 Jim Norris #2 Dan0 #3 Chunder #4 axewater #5 dgiors #6 Xebec's Demise #7 Gunstar #8 WestofHouse #9 SilverAR #10 smartwhois #11 Goochman #12 Chenzy #13 Angry Jedi #14 Bunsen #15 eclecticmonk Rules 1. No Cheating - there's really no point is there? Don't waste your time. 2. Alternate Reality: The City focuses on your game skill, knowledge and strategy for the survival and the development of your character in a hostile alien virtual world. Thus, no character backups are allowed. Backups would allow you to survive indefinitely and would not be a test of your skill in playing the game. Just like any other video game competition, once you die, you're dead. You can save your character to continue later, but using copies or backups for the purposes of this competition is not allowed. If you die and want to try again, start another character. 3. To be fair and start everyone off on equal terms, you must create a new character. To show that you created a new character, try to take a screenshot of the initial skills that you roll in the skill selection screen at the beginning of the game and post it here (be prepared to take your screenshot, F10 in Atari800win Plus), you don't have much time after rolling your stats before the image disintegrates so you have to be quick. If you miss it, then take a screenshot of your new character at the floating gate. Here is an example: 4. Each time you gain a level, take a screenshot and post it here. I will keep your highest level obtained listed here in this post. For fun, do try to show interesting things in your screenshot for others to see, such as your weapons, clothing or items. 5. Keep in mind this is a VERY challenging game! Don't give up. Expect to go through about a dozen characters before finally being able to survive past the first few levels. Most of all, just have fun playing one of the most realistic incredible virtual world games of its time! Tips Create or use a map. Here are the original game map, a 64x64 (City size) blank graph paper, and a completed map (spoiler): ar map.pdf Try playing a good aligned character. That way only half the population will be out to kill you and you will be pretty safe during the day. To do this, only attack neutral beings such as thieves, muggers, fighters and warriors if they take a swing at you first. Do not try to Trick them or Charm them; only try these acts on evil beings. If you surprise a neutral being like a mugger or fighter, always Hail them. If they Attack you, then you are free to attack back. The Following is a list of evil beings. Dragons, Thieves and Warrior classes are not evil. They are neutral, but their intro sounds similar to that of evil beings so be careful. Notice that the only evil human life form is the Assassin!: Assasin Orc Giant Rat Black Slime Spectre Imp Gnoll Troll Wolf Ghost Zombie Ghoul Goblin Nightstalker Brown Mold Wraith Gremlin Skeleton The first thing you should do is try to buy a Dagger or Stiletto. Straight from the floating gate go to Occums Weaponsmiths 19E, 32N hours 05:00-21:59 in the NW of town. If he does not have a Dagger or Stiletto then go to Sharp Weaponsmiths 54E, 9N hours 04:00-20:59 in the SE of town. Usually one or the other will have one. Occums is the cheapest by 23%. You can usually make an initial offer of less than half of the asking price. For example, if the Dagger is being sold for 200, then start by offering 90. Keep bargaining by meeting the Smithy a little less than half way of his counter offer i.e. if you Offer 90 and he counters with 130, then Offer 110. You should be able to buy a Dagger or Stiletto for between 100-120 Coppers depending on your CHR and skill at bartering. The very next thing you must do is head straight to the Tavern in the NW corner of town, 20E, 62N, (See map linked below) whether you were able to buy a Weapon or not. You can find or buy a weapon later, but for now you need to supply with food and water. After entering the City Wall, turn right or East and go through 19 secret doors. To be safe, after 18, you can turn right or south and try to enter. If you have counted correctly you will not be able to. Just turn left or back east and go through one more, turn right or south again and try to enter. You should enter the Tavern. If not, and you have messed up your counting somewhere, continue checking every south section of wall until you find it. If you go further than 19 secret doors you will have to exit the City wall and start over, so if you lose count, then try to error on the low end as you can keep checking until you find it. Once you have located the Tavern, go inside and buy a free Water. This will help save your Water Flasks from being used. Then, if you have any money, buy as many Food Packets and Water Flasks as you can, saving about 10 copper so that you can pay for an Inn. Buy Food Packets/Pemmican and Water Flasks so you always have twice as many Water Flasks as Food Packets. This is because Water Flasks are used up twice as fast. Pemmican = 1 Food Packet and only costs 16 Copper. If you do not have any money, then wait outside the Tavern and try to get some by defeating evil or neutral (if they attack first) beings. You can continue to go into the Tavern to get Free Water ever couple of hours so that your Water Flasks do not get used. You can tell an hour has passed, by the white text on the screen flashing ever 2:50 for NTSC and every 3:50 for PAL displays. Its a good idea to use a stopwatch to keep track of the hours, that way you do not have to watch for the text to flash. If the Tavern does not have Water Flasks or Food Packets/Pemmican, the menu will change every hour, so keep checking. Try to stock up with as much food and water as possible, remembering to keep about 10 coppers to sleep. If at any time, you are very low in Hit Points or Tired, then turn left or East, go through two secret doors, turn right or South and exit the City Wall. Head SW to the Warriors Retreat Inn 28E, 54N (see map linked below) and Sleep on the Common Area Floor for 12 Hours for 7 Copper. Try to go to sleep before it gets dark, you gain maximum hitpoints if you go to bed before dark and you choose a time to awake that is in the morning daylight. After you awake, you should either try to go buy a Dagger or Stiletto again if you did not get one, or go back to the Tavern and continue drinking free Water and stocking up on Food Packets and Water Flasks while fighting the beings that you encounter while waiting outside the Tavern door. If you get a surplus of money or Gems or Jewelry, vist the bank, Grams Gold Exchange 2E, 61N, which is close by in the NW corner and make a deposit so that you have a reserve of cash. Original Alternate Reality Homepage FAQ: http://www.eobet.com...reality_FAQ.txt How to Survive - Alternate Reality: The City 1. Make a complete map of The City and list of potions first. Also note what stats each guild on the map raises. You will appreciate and cherish your own handmade map for many years to come, but if you don't enjoy mapping or do not have the time, then print one off from sites such as eobet's The Original Alternate Reality Homepage: http://www.eobet.com...ernate-reality/ or here: http://web.archive.o...s/AltrReal.html 2. When rolling your stats, focus on STA, WIS and SKL. These three often-overlooked skills do not rise from potions or in-game use. They also happen to be very important for initial survival. SKL determines how easily you can escape an encounter without being stolen from and also how well you dodge blows. If you have a high SKL and average STR, you will be able to punch muggers to death with your Bare Hands, even 1 point at a time without them hitting you! WIS helps you determine what type of potion you have found - a single potion can change the outcome of your game! When you are a poor, weak character, it is very important to know what you are drinking! The right potion could be great, but the wrong one will surely kill you! WIS also helps you determine if a weapon is cursed or not. A Cursed weapon can also result in a bad start for a new character. STA is very important because it determines how many Hit Points you gain when going up a level. Even if you start with low hit points as a result of focusing on STA WIS and SKL, you can gain an additional 20+ Hit Points if your STA is near 20, just from gaining 300 experience, which is quite easy. On this basis, Hit Points are actually the least important in the long run because they can go up so quickly, unfortunately many people focus on them when rolling their characters. STA also affects your resistance to hardships and is likely to affect disease, hunger, thirst and tiredness - I am still confirming this. The best you can possibly roll in these three important skills is a total of 63, three 21s, but I have never seen it. Any combination above 50 is really good. You can pretty much ignore the other skills when rolling, they will go up with use and also gain much easier when leveling. 3. Play a Good Alignment to begin with! You can always switch later. Never Attack, Trick or Charm Good beings. Only use Trick or Charm on Evil beings. Never Attack Neutral beings first. Neutral beings, such as Fighters and Thieves, have the same intro music as Evil creatures so be careful. Always wait for Neutral beings to take the first swing. Dragons are Neutral also! When you Surprise Neutral beings make sure to Hail them. They will then begin to leave you alone. This is especially important for encounters with the more skilled and powerful Thieves, Knights and Dragons. If you have a good alignment they will normally let you go and most of the time will leave if they surprise you! Otherwise, they will try to steal your vital food, water and coppers and you will find it very hard to survive. If you are Evil, then Guards will constantly be after you also. Basically, by being Good, you cut your enemies in half and avoid being hunted by Guards and stolen from by Neutrals. This is very important for the survival of a new character. 4. If you have 110 coppers or more, the very first thing you should do within the game is head straight to Occums Weaponsmiths and barter for a Dagger or Stiletto. If he does not have one, go to Sharp Weaponsmiths. Depending upon your CHR they will usually be offered for between 150 to 220 coppers. Start by offering about 80 coppers. The Smithy will then cut his price by about 70%! Then meet him a little bit less than halfway of his counter offers. If you barter well, even with low CHR, you can get a Stiletto or Dagger for 110-120 coppers! Remember to ready it as soon as you leave the Smithy. Practice this with Temporary characters until you are good at it. It takes some skill and knowledge to do it well without being kicked out. 5. The very next stop should be the Assassin's Guild. A new character starts out with a Surprise modifier of 00. This stat raises slowly per level just like any other stat, but the Assassins Guild will give you +30 to the stat! Yes, that is +30, not +3! This will make a huge difference in your encounters. Also near the Assassins guild is the Sleeping Dragon Inn, the cheapest Inn in town. One of the cheaper taverns, the Flaming Dragon Tavern, is also right across from the Inn. There is no better place to restore your Hit Points if you are low and do not have enough coppers for the Healer. Always consider the healer first though; because sleeping will use up precious Food Packets which cost a minimum of 16 coppers each as Pemmican at The Tavern. Another option is to navigate your way to the Physicians Guild and Star Wizards Guild which will both give you some more Hit Points. These 8 Hit Points from the Guilds may be enough to survive, allowing you to kill that next aggressive mugger in order to gain even more Hit Points from gaining a level. 6. If you have decent Hit Points, your very next stop should be The Tavern in the City Wall. Your next most important strategy for survival is to spend every copper you can on getting Pemmican/Food Packets. Always save 7 coppers to use for sleeping in the Warriors Retreat Inn close by on the East side of The Arena. Do not buy Water Flasks! They are a waste of your precious coppers. You can get as much water as you want for free at The Tavern. Even being Very Thirsty will not begin to affect you - you actually have to be Parched for a couple of game hours before your stats start dropping. Sit outside The Tavern and every hour the menu will change, hopefully offering Food Packets or even better, Pemmican. Buy as many as you can. You can use a stopwatch 2:50 for NTSC and 3:50 for PAL is a new AR hour; you can also tell by the lower white text portion of the screen flashing once, but you have to pay attention or you will miss it. I use the stopwatch on my watch and just let it run, i.e. 2:50 is the first hour change, 5:40 is the next hour change and so on. Every time you go in The Tavern, get free water. Your thirst does not display "Thirsty" until reaching a level of 04 and each water will reduce thirst by 4. You never know when it might not be available. Never waste any coppers on any food either unless you have not found any Pemmican/Food Packets and are "Famished" AND losing more than a couple of each stat. If this is the case, then try to buy Bowls of Chili, which reduce hunger level by 4 and only costs 8 or Sandwiches, which reduce hunger by 3 and cost about the same. Most other food is much more expensive or only reduces your hunger level by 1. While you are waiting outside The Tavern trying to collect coppers and supply yourself with Food Packets, try killing muggers and fighters that attack first, imps, gremlins, skeletons, zombies, orcs, gnolls and goblins. These are fairly easy to kill. Always try Tricking or Charming Evil creatures first as you may get lucky. 7. When you become "Tired" AND begin losing stats, head as quickly as you can to the Inn and use the 7 coppers you were saving to sleep on the Common Area floor for 12 hours. Only sleep if it is dark or close to being dark. You will recover much faster if you are sleeping at night and awake in the morning or daylight. The optimum sleep time is from about 1800, when it turns dark, to 0600, when it turns light. If you sleep at that time, you will fully recover just from sleeping in the Common Area floor for 12 hours, even if you are Tired and have lost all your stats and almost all your hit points! A good strategy is to wait safely inside the Inn until about 1800. You will be safe inside the Inn no matter how Tired you are. Check the hour in the Inn and when it becomes dark, then sleep. Otherwise, you will be wasting your Coppers and your Food Packets sleeping and not recovering anything. 8. Do not attack Giant Rats! Avoid them at all costs. They are easy to kill, but you will be setting yourself up for disaster as they almost always infect you with Rabies! Remember, in the long run, Rabies will cost you at least 200 coppers to cure unless you get lucky and find a Cleanse potion and it may also cost you your stats or life. You will very rarely get more than 200 coppers off a Giant Rat, so fighting them is not worth it. In fact, they rarely have any treasure at all. Do not fight Giant Rats! Also, still in testing, but it seems that you consume water and food faster, get tired more easily and do not gain stats as well when infected with Rabies or any diseases. 9. As soon as you have a good supply of Food Packets, you can begin making your way to the guilds and raising your stats. Try to raise stats in the most balanced manner that you can. This is because often, the highest stats do not raise when you go up a level. So, if your STA, WIS and SKL are your highest stats, as suggested to begin with, DO NOT go to guilds that will raise these stats higher. Save these Guilds for later, otherwise it will be a waste. Visit these guild when you have gained a STR, CHR and INT that are higher; it will inevitably happen, as STR CHR and INT go up between levels with use. 10. If you want to gain some STR, Parry Trolls. For every 255 hits, you will gain one point of STR. You can usually gain 2 to 3 points of STR off each Troll before losing stats to Tiredness. By Parrying, if you have a high skill, it will be very difficult for the Troll to hit you and you will not damage him enough to kill him. If you are doing more than 2-3 points of damage per hit, try using your Bare Hands or a worn out Stiletto to Parry the Troll. As long as you are not losing stats to Tiredness, Hunger or Thirst, you can sit there and ramp up your STR. STR determines the amount of damage you do, so eventually you will begin doing more damage than the Troll can Regenerate, but it's a good tactic for mid-level characters. 11. Once you have a good supply of food and water and can survive well, head to the SE corner of town. Sleep in the Inn there during day, and fight the monsters at night. There is a good chance of running into easy monsters there that have a high percentage of treasure, such as Trolls, Imps, Gremlins and Goblins. 12. Always get your Gems and Jewelry appraised at all three banks. Many times, one will appraise double that of the other two. It will take you some time, but the difference between a Completely Worthless gem and one that is worth 4 gold could be as big as the difference between life and death.
  21. Holy crap this place is awesome! I sold a bunch of this stuff to some of the good people who enjoy some time here :-) I am selling my house and have unpacked the Atari stuff which has been in boxes since the early 80's. My son is grown and I am minimizing, and I really didn't expect this. These are actual Atari's my little brother and I grew up on! Make an offer for what's left! C'mon! who wants the rest of the lot... - Atari 800 w/power supply, basic cart, 48k - Atari 400 w/power supply, basic cart - 810 Disc Drive w/power supply - I have pretty much everything but the computer boxes, even have the Atari 800 dust cover. - original controllers, track balls, paddles, early flight style joysticks, and a rapid fire controller thingy - Books (I also remember sitting for hours with my brother and typing in games and programs I really don't want to move with it! The $ goes right in my son's college account :-) Thanks everyone! This place is great, makes me want to get back into all the Atari stuff.... ok maybe not, but I'll probably go and buy a couple of Atari t-shirts or something now. SOLD so far: Basic Fun book Compute's 3rd Book of Atari All the Atari game cartridges All the original games and software on disks (omg that one was a steal!) :-) BTW- My son actually left for college on Feb 7th :-) !!!!!
  22. Looking to sell as a lot for $300 shipped or for the prices listed below. PM me if interested Koala Paint Pad & Cartridge $40 Shipped Atari 810 Disk Drive, Manuals, DOS Disks $100 Shipped Missile Command $8 (plus shipping) Asteroids $9 (plus shipping) Pilot $10 (plus shipping) Atari 800 Computer w/ Dust Cover, OEM Power Supply, Owner's Guide, and Disk Guide $200 Shipped Your Atari Computer paperback $10 Shipped VERBATIM Datalife 5 1/4" Head Cleaning Kit $23 SHIPPED VERBATIM Datalife (10 Cleaning Disks) 5 1/4" Head Cleaning Kit Brand New $40 Shipped
  23. Over the past few months I've been given many Atari hardware items and software. These belonged to a friend of mine who was an avid member of the local Atari user group. He died about two years ago, and his son passed away about a year ago. I have been receiving various bits of documentation, paperwork, hardware and software from their family members in the time since they passed away. I've been asking what has and has not been archived and I've been doing my best to make sure that it has been archived (thanks to Allan Bushman for scanning and taking care of this 8-bit material-- he's such a great archivist!). Until this point, I've not given too much thought about using some of the hardware like the 1050/810 disk drives. These were all stored in an outdoor barn/shed. All of the hardware (the computers included) is very dusty and I'd be shocked to learn that any of disk drives work at all. A couple of months ago a friend of mine suggested that he would like to see an Atari load-up some floppy disks to play some games. We can do that already, as I have a disk drive emulator for the Atari and various AtariMax flash carts, but he wants to see some real 5 1/4" floppies booting to some game or other. In addition, included in the last batch of Atari items that I was given, was quite a bit of the Atari 8-bit public domain PD library on 5 1/4" floppy. It might be neat to load some of that stuff up on real hardware. My question is: is there a FAQ or repair/restoration manuals and/or videos on how to go through and restore Atari 810/1050 disk drives. I guess, at the minimum, I'd need to learn to clean/lubricate gears/motors/heads. Adam P.S. I also have several Atari 410 program recorders, but I'm not sure that restoring those would even be worth the effort. Or is there a reason to have these around?
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