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Found 62 results

  1. ****UPDATED October 20, 2017**** Scroll down to see photo's. Atari, Commodore 64 and Sega Master System controllers for sale. I've tried to make these a bit more budget friendly but still have a nice design with quality parts. I can do button placement on the right or the left of the joystick. PM me with special requests. The joysticks are made with IL Eurostick joysticks* with cherry micro switches. The buttons are concave Happ buttons. Cables and strain relief boot are brand new. Nyloc nuts are used to prevent loosening over time. The Atari joysticks work with both the Atari 7800 (two buttons) and the Atari 2600 (both buttons act as "fire"). * The iL Eurojoystick may be better known as the original HAPP Competition. iL (Industrias Lorenzo) is a Spanish manufacturer of high quality and extremely durable arcade parts. Originally known for manufacturing HAPP parts (such as the Happ Competition Joystick) until HAPP moved production to SUZO facilities in China, iL continued to provide high quality parts under their own label. Poorly lit video demo of joystick in use: https://youtu.be/0KPjN-yAEDI What I have to offer: Standard Edition in both Black and White. $68.95 Special Edition Controllers with Atari characters (Boxing, Q-bert, Pitfall, Etc.) $75.95 AND UP (Depends on design - see photo's/pricing below) Single button 2600 Edition $63.95 (Works with the Commodore 64 and Atari 2600) Commodore 64 Joystick $63.95 (Works with the Commodore 64 and Atari 2600) Sega Master System (Mark III) $68.95 (Works with the Sega Master System) Orders are accepted for anything you see here. If it's not in stock I can make one for you. Lead time is usually 1 1/2 to 2 weeks depending on what parts I need to order. Shipping cost depends on location. It varies from $9 up to $17 (Priority mail with tracking). If you send your zip code I can give you an estimate. Paypal Accepted. STANDARD EDITION BLACK: ($68.95) STANDARD EDITION BLACK - RIGHT SIDE JOYSTICK: ($68.95) STANDARD EDITION WHITE: ($68.95) SPECIAL EDITION BOXING: ($74.95) SPECIAL EDITION Q-BERT: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION PAC-MAN: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION DONKEY KONG: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION PITFALL: ($85.95) SPECIAL EDITION DOUBLE DRAGON: ($77.95) 2600 SINGLE BUTTON EDITION: ($63.95) COMMODORE 64 EDITION: ($63.95) SEGA MASTER SYSTEM (MARK III): ($68.95)
  2. I had some Coleco Gemini Controllers included when I bought some games off a kijiji ad and when I bought a system. My problem: I opened them and cleaned them and there was black gunk all over the connectors. I first ran it through stella with the 2600 daptor 2 and it was funny. The dial moved the ship in defender and the stick when I pushed up would shoot but when I had the case off it would work no problem. I tried ms pac man on a 2600 and it worked the button worked and the joystick worked (with the case on). When I tried it on breakout the dial worked but I had to press up on the joystick to shoot the ball (This was also on a 2600). Now what I think it is I used too much rubbing alcohol and took something out of the board but I just want to fix and remedy it. There was possibly some black gunk that was supposed to be there possibly? HELP!
  3. Hey there guys and gals! This afternoon I got a couple of Retro-Bit's new 6 Button Sega Genesis controllers in the mail from Amazon, and since a lot of folks around here have been curious about them I thought I'd take a few minutes to do a little review of these controllers and compare them to Sega's own 6 button controller from back in the day. First off let's take a look at the packaging. Retro-Bit did a really nice job on the box, which as far as I can tell looks almost identical to the boxes that Sega shipped their 6 button controllers in back in the 90's. The plastic insert inside the box that holds the controller in place is rather flimsy feeling, but the controller it holds is most certainly not. To cut straight to the chase, let's take a look at Retro-Bit's offering next to an original 6 button Genesis controller from 1994 that I purchased brand new on eBay a couple months ago and have only put a few hours of use on since then. From the outside it's clear that Retro-Bit's partnership with Sega on this project was a fruitful one. The color, feel, fit and finish of the controller's shell is absolutely identical to the original Sega controller and the cord looks and feels the same as well; with the only difference being that the Retro-Bit controller features a 10 foot long cord as opposed to the 6 foot cord on the Sega controller. Aside from the lack of a "TM" next to the Sega logo on the front and the addition of the Retro-Bit logo on the back, the text on the controller is just the same as the original and the only obvious difference is that the finish on the D-pad and A/B/C buttons on the Retro-Bit controller have a soft matte texture to them whereas the D-pad and A/B/C buttons on the original controller are slightly glossy. As long as we're on the subject of the D-pad and buttons, when pressed down the only difference I could feel between Retro-Bit's D-pad and buttons and the original were that the Retro-Bit ones required ever so slightly more pressure to activate; somewhere in the area of 3 to 5 grams of actuation force if I had to venture a guess. To give them a proper test with a fairly demanding game I popped Mortal Kombat II into my Genesis and first did a full play through of the tournament mode with my original Sega controller, then upon beating the tournament did a second play through with the Retro-Bit controller. After two play through's of MK II's tournament I'm pleased (and a little surprised, to be completely honest) to say that I could find no discernible difference in build quality or function between Retro-Bit's new Genesis controller and Sega's original from 1994. During the 45 minutes or so I spent playing through MK II's tournament mode with the Retro-Bit controller I never once experienced a false input and in practice the tiny bit of extra force required to move the D-Pad and buttons was negligible. My thumbs didn't feel any more tired after playing with Retro-Bit's controller than Sega's and none of my movements felt any slower or less precise. In order to get a better idea of why Retro-Bit's controller performed every bit as good as Sega's original, let's open them up and take a look inside. Peering inside, it quickly becomes apparent why Retro-Bit's new Genesis controller performs so well. It is in every respect, down to the millimeter, an exact copy of the original Sega design. They are so identical that I would be very surprised if they weren't using the same mold that the originals were made with. With the exception of the screws that secure the two shell halves together (which are slightly longer on the Sega controller) every part is 100% interchangeable between the two controllers. In fact, when I swapped the silicone button and D-pad contact pads from the Sega controller into the Retro-Bit one the actuation force required to press the D-Pad and buttons became exactly the same as the Sega controller had; which makes it pretty clear that the only reason the Retro-Bit controller's buttons and D-pad required a tiny bit more force to press is because it has brand new silicone pads in it and the Sega controller's silicone pads are about 25 years old at this point. The especially nice thing about Retro-Bit's controllers being internally identical to the original Sega ones is that if you do ever manage to wear out the silicone button contacts or any other part then they can be easily replaced with any of the numerous replacement parts on the market made for Sega's original controllers. With that future proofing in mind I give Retro-Bit's Sega Genesis 6 Button Arcade Pads my highest recommendation. Never in my life have I encountered a third party controller for any system that was such a perfect copy of the original first party controller as these, and at only $15 each and officially licensed by Sega there's absolutely no reason whatsoever that I can think of to go try and hunt down a used original Sega controller when Retro-Bit's new Genesis controllers are available. They are, for all practical purposes, the exact same controller. Whether your looking for some top quality wired controllers to pair with your new Analogue Mega Sg or just need a good controller or two for your trusty old Genesis, I don't think you'll find a better option than Retro-Bit's Sega Genesis controllers anywhere; past or present.
  4. Hey all, With a keen eye I spotted this 'untested' 'Modded???' drive on eBay. Sure enough it had a genuine Happy board, later 8KB SRAM revision, and Controller, but the mechanism needed some TLC. It was definitely stored for a long time in a humid environment because there was a bit of rust, and Aluminum oxidization that cleaned up nicely with an IPA wipe-down. The stepper motor and the top clamp spinner were totally seized. The stepper released with a little force and seems to be behaving now, and the top spinner and rails received a healthy dose of 3-in-1 oil. Now onto the testing! As you can see in the 'before' pictures the lower switch was busted off. This switch selects the write protect mode, which operates a little differently than the standard DIY mods in that the LED is an indicator of Write enable, even when in the lower position - It will actually turn off and on live depending on what the optical sensors see. The middle and top positions function as usual (always read only / always allow write) so I spent this evening replacing the broken switch with a spare On-Off-On switch. I didn't have one with the side-mount pins, so I fabricated it by soldering the bendy leads from the old switch onto mine, and then onto the PCB. It was a little tricky, because too much heat and the graft would let go. It's also not the same 'flat paddle' style switch, but it's not too practical to search & wait for a custom order for that... But I might still replace it I come across one in the future... so it matches that little paper printout The board has 4 wires that connect to a pin-header on the Happy board itself, and to the write-protect sensor & emitter pin header at the back of the drive. The removed sensor/emitter header then plugs directly into the controller board so it can monitor, and intercept or pass-through the real write-protect status. Anyhow, I believe there's been some interest in the 'Happy Controller' companion board for Genuine Happy 1050 upgrades, and maybe some detailed pictures may help someone someday in reproducing these. I've used Happy since forever, but its my first time with my hands on this little add-on. The upper track-buffer toggle switch is interesting, as it will actually still operate in Ultraspeed SIO, but with long gaps between each sector on a regular skew disk similar to USDoubler on a standard skew disk. I haven't yet tried a disk formatted with Ultraspeed skew. If you'd like to see any other views, let me know!
  5. SmellyJelly

    The Controller Bin

    From the album: Smelly's Setup

    All of my controllers that I've collected overtime. The controllers that I use frequently aren't typically in here.

    © SmellyJelly

  6. Repairing an Arcadia 2001 Controller I had problems with a fire button of the left Arcadia 2001 controller, not firing anymore. The Arcadia-controllers are very simple and were cheaply made. Even working, they are not great controllers. In the end nothing will help, but making complete new controllers of quality components, with real switches. I might do that sometime, if there should be some games I really like and want to play decently. Not sure yet. But for the beginning a repair should be enough. Simultaneously I'm using the opportunity to preserve that technology by uploading a few pictures. That's my left controller: Inside everything is glued together. By pulling carefully the parts can be separated. The mylar is quite corroded and a bit dirty: Showing the color scheme the plug: The wiring of the mylar itself, in case somebody wants to make a reproduction (or wonders, why pushing the "2"-key, also triggers the gun). Both red fire buttons are wired in parallel. They are just simple buttons, no rocker switches, no up and down. It is a 5x5 millimeters grid in the background. I cleaned the corrosion and without heavy rubbing, not only oxidation went off, but also the printed conducting traces. They really are not bound firmly with the plastic carrier. Look at the red circle. I cleaned away part of button and wire, by using alcohol, an ear pad and too much pressure and rubbing. Cleaning must be done extremely careful: For the first time I tried to repair with conducting silver, since soldering is impossible. I made a mask of transparent tape for painting the new trace. I learnt, painting one time is not enough: To lower electric resistance, the trace must be thicker. I painted three times. Narrow traces are bad, too. They have to be wide. Contact with the original traces must overlap as far as possible to make good contact. Left picture: painting a few times. Right picture: pulling off the tape. I also re-painted the conductive pad of the fire-button later on. I took no photo. Before reassembling I protected the new traces with transparent tape, since the silver color can't get inside the mylar's surface and gets scratched off quite easily. Reassembled the controller, checked it, working again! I can't predict, how long the new pad of the button will last, of course. Hopefully some time...
  7. (not mine) Vectrex "MiniVex II" controller, with Rapid Fire, twin analog joysticks Brand-new, twin joystick controller for Vectrex! It's got a tough, all-metal case. Size is about 3/4 of the factory unit, see photo 4. The two joysticks are analog, like the factory controller. The left and right cables correspond to the left and right joysticks, and a toggle switch on the back selects the left or right cable for button inputs, so you can use the buttons with EITHER joystick, when only one cable is plugged in, or you can plug in both cables and use BOTH joysticks at once! (The toggle switch prevents overlapping button inputs.) Thus this controller is compatible with Robot Arena, and (hopefully) the upcoming Stramash Zone. Now, if those homebrew designers would only grace us with Crazy Vector Climber, and Vectrex Widow, and Cloak & Vector... The buttons on this controller are smaller and stiffer than the factory controller, but there's a remedy for that...button #4, most often used for firing, has a rapid fire feature. Just hold it down and bangbangbang! The other toggle switch on the back selects rapid or normal fire, and with the rotary pot you can adjust the firing speed to YOUR liking. This controller is not cosmetically perfect...I make them by hand, so they're not going to be perfect. Please see my other auction for a simpler, single joystick version of this controller. I'll guarantee this controller for 30 days from the day you receive it. If it fails within that time, I'll repair it at no charge. Paypal only, will ship anywhere EBay's Global Shipping goes, and THANKS FOR LOOKING! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vectrex-MiniVex-II-controller-with-Rapid-Fire-twin-analog-joysticks/222794918982?
  8. up2knowgood

    Backs

    From the album: Jaguar

    The back of the two controllers, grey buttoned on the left, and black buttoned on the right.

    © David Haring

  9. From the album: Flight Yoke to use on the 5200 (w/ PC to 5200 controller adapter) or on PC (with a 15 pin to USB controller adapter)

    Best for use on Atari 5200 with a PC to 5200 controller adapter for games like Rescue on Fractalus, Star Raiders, and Star Wars the Arcade Game. If you use it on PC to play flight games (ie. Star Wars) , you'll need a 15 pin to USB controller adapter.
  10. Hi, I have come into possession of an ASCII Stick Alpha for the Sega Master System. I have done some Google/Atari Age searching and have come to a limited understanding that trying to use it on a 7800/2600/800XL might be a bad idea, but I don't understand why and under what circumstances (if any) that it might work. But then I have a buddy who swears that he has played some of his Atari games using a different SMS controller for decades and it hasn't caused him any problems. What happens when one tries to play his or her Atari with a Master System controller? Thanks for your time, --SilvaHaloOne
  11. Hi Everyone, I have for sale: 1. one Atari Video Touch Pad Controller: System: Atari 2600, Model Number: CX21 Also known as the Star Raiders controller, functionally identical to the Kid's Controller and Keyboard Controller. Also included is an overlay with commands, for use with the game Star Raiders. The game itself is not included. 2. one pair of Atari Keyboard Controllers: System: Atari 2600, Model Number: CX50 Functionally identical to the Kid's Controller and the Video Touch Pad. Included are overlays with commands, meant to be used with Basic Programming. Can be used with the following titles: Basic Programming, Brain Games, Codebreaker, Game of Concentration, Hunt & Score, MagiCard and Memory Match. The titles themselves, are not included. Asking € 10,- + shipping for the Atari Video Touch Pad Controller and € 15,- + shipping for the pair of Atari Keyboard Controllers(PayPal Gift of IBAN bank transfer) I can ship worldwide from the Netherlands. The items are listed elsewhere. Thanks for looking.
  12. So i'm pondering dropping some cash on a splitter and second controller for my CDi. At this point, I have most of the good games for the system and i'm not sure if any of them are two player. Even the 1 or 2 games I have that are two player seem to be alternating turns which require only one controller. Does anyone happen to play two player CDi and know what games support two player simultaneous, or alternating with two player? Is it even worth bothering? If there are even three decent two player games I'm all for it. There doesn't seem to be a definitive list anywhere or much information that I can find; so i need some resident CDi expert input. Thanks!!
  13. So I recently acquired an Odyssey 2 and some games. When I bought it, I checked to make sure it booted up and everything, which it did. Unfortunately, I didn't actually try playing a game. I sat down today to play one, and it seems the player 1 controller has an input problem, because the player is always walking to the left. Its acting the same as if on an N64 where if you have the analog stick held down when you boot the console, that input repeats itself until you reset. I plan to open up the controller and console this weekend and give it a cleaning, but I was wondering if anyone had insight as to what to look for or any videos to point me to. Thanks!
  14. Hi looking to buy 1 or more of these. Redemption 5200 Controller Adapter, thanks
  15. Who was the giant idiot at Atari Corp. who thought that the Jaguar controller was in need of a friggin' keypad?? The controller would have been better off looking like a larger version of the PC Engine controller. Its because of the controller scheme mainly that made the Jaguar fail in the end. :mad: :mad:
  16. I am lacking a second controller for my Super Nintendo due to sales of spare systems I had. I thought I had one more but I guess I didn't. Send me a PM and tell me about or show me pictures of any wear. As long as it is fully functional and you don't have to jam any of the keys in in order to get the buttons to work I'm ok with it. I don't care if it's yellowed or has the "Super Nintendo" logo wearing off. I'm going to see how many offers I get and take the cheapest one.
  17. I just finished this, it took quite a while but I got it working. I am finally free of the CX52 joystick! I was so sick of the mushy buttons on the CX52; when I push the system buttons, it feels good to have them push back! I'll post a schematic later if anyone is interested, though I suspect anyone capable of building one of these already knows how.
  18. Hi all! (I reposted this from the Homebrew thread) Im new here but have been a Jag fan forever. I wanted to replace my Jaguar buttons from red to Orange. I prefer the classic Atari color scheme so...there ya have it. WHile i was making the orange I decided to play around and see what other color combinations i could come up with. The buttons and D-pads are made from 2 piece silicone molds and filled with liquid plastic resin. My silicon moulds made from original Jag Controller parts "Classic Orange" (right) "Blackout" (left) "The GT" "Ivory" A Fresh Batch of Uncleaned Ivory, Blackout, and a Grey color Im calling "Winter in Michigan" Random Parts ready for cleaning Thoughts? Judas-Prime
  19. Forgive me if I'm posting in the wrong place, I didn't know where else to post this. I'm looking for a pair of keypad overlays for MouseTrap, if anybody has an extra pair laying around. PM me with your price and shipping cost. Original overlays HIGHLY preferred. Nothing against repros, it's just not what I'm looking for in this one instance. Thanks much, everyone!
  20. Hi all, This is my first post here, but been lurking and taking in all the useful advice re atari! I'm looking for one of the black plastic controller ports thats soldered on to the pcb of an atari flashback 3-7. Can anyone help me please? I currently have one good and one melted one, that I accidently destroyed whilst trying to remove for a raspberry pi project. Any help greatly appreciated!
  21. From the album: My Collection

    I did not do this, This was done back in the 80's by somebody who REALLY liked this controller and wanted to use it on their Atari computer (Probably) The controller does function but the controls are reversed forcing the player to hold it backwards,also it has a dead zone the size of Kansas, all or nothing whatsoever. Yes That is Duct Tape
  22. From the album: My Collection

    I did not do this, This was done back in the 80's by somebody who REALLY liked this controller and wanted to use it on their Atari computer (Probably) The controller does function but the controls are reversed forcing the player to hold it backwards,also it has a dead zone the size of Kansas, all or nothing whatsoever.
  23. From the album: Accessories

    CIB. Box was opened, but the controller was never used.
  24. From the album: Jaguar

    Two Atari Jaguar Controllers.

    © David Haring

  25. Who have found a replacement knob for the Vectrex Controller? One that fits the shaft as a screw on replacement. One that will still allow the controller to be stored. One that matches well. Chrome. Black. Light Gray. In metal or plastic. Preferably, one that does not destroy or degrade another old controller. But hey, Vectrex before Atari! or Tandy. One that is reasonably priced. Reasonably being somewhat mutable based on what it is. newly machined knob with chrome / polishing will be more expensive than a 3D printed knob.
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