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Found 3 results

  1. Hello all, I'm new to these forums, but I'm an avid classic gamer, and I'm ready to step back a decade into the joy that is Atari. Having done some reading and being a collector at heart, it seems clear that to "do this right" I need to buy an Atari 2600 Woodgrain Heavy Sixer (1977, Sunnyvale) with original controllers. I don't care about boxes, manual would be nice but not necessary. Not looking for any games to start unless they are complete in box. While I don't collect my consoles CIB, I *do* collect my games CIB. It's also important to me that the console be in very good to excellent cosmetic condition and function properly. Finally, I'm wanting to get two of the original joysticks that make the lovely "clicking" sound when pressing the red button, and two of the original tennis paddles that have the Atari logo rather than the word "paddle." Hookups for modern-day televisions would be a plus but if not, I can scrounge that separately. If you have all of the above, please reply or PM me ASAP! To summarize, WTB: - 1 original Atari 2600 Woodgrain (NOT Sears) "Heavy Sixer" (1977, made in Sunnyvale) - without box is fine, manual would be nice, but not crucial - must work properly and be in very good cosmetic condition - 2 original joysticks (the kind with the red buttons that "click") - 2 original tennis paddles (the kind with Atari logo instead of word "paddle") - Not interested in pack-in games unless they are complete with box; while I don't collect console boxes per se, I only collect 100% complete games Thank you everyone for your time and hospitality!! (Edit: I now see that there is a separate "Wanted" sub forum. If any mods would be so kind as to move this post there, I would greatly appreciate it! Sorry for the oversight!)
  2. I heard at one point that just as there was an original model of the ordinary paddle which had the Atari logo instead of the word "paddle," there was also an original model of the driving paddle which similarly had the Atari logo rather than the word "driving." The closest I've seen to one is on eBay there was an auction for driving paddles "CIB" and the box had a picture of driving paddles as I described above. However, the actual paddles inside the box in this auction said "driving" rather than having the logo. Does anyone know for sure whether these mythical driving paddles exist? Better yet, does anyone own one that can post a picture? I'm trying to collect an entire set of "first run" Atari hardware including the heavy sixer with original accessories and controllers. Thanks!
  3. Mrs. Shake found a Craigslist post and tipped me off. She said she’d seen it listed for about a week, and finally contacted the guy. She even drove us out there yesterday evening. She knew by the photo it was a Heavy Sixer, and she knew I’d been wanting a Tele-Games console of some kind for my collection. I dig that swirly woodgrain, and we’ve already got a Tele-Games game storage center in our living room to match. (They look fantastic together.) I’ve already got what I call a “Half Sixer” -- a H6 top and guts with an L6 bottom put on during an early-‘80s refurb. It plays and looks great. But it’s not quite the same as THIS. Mrs. S didn’t realize that the CX-10s in the listing photo, assuming they worked, were the icing on the cake. It was (to us, in our market) a really good deal. And it was a great sort of situation, too -- literally a middle-aged guy selling stuff from his mom’s house in the ‘burbs, most likely his own console from back in the day. No sleazy resellers, no eBay-style price gouging, no junk-shop nonsense. Which meant this hadn’t been rotting in a landfill for decades, and was pretty clean. It all smelled overwhelmingly of mothballs and had a serious case of “dust crust”, but I gave it a bath in the kitchen sink and that helped a lot. I tried to be very careful not to get let any of that hot, soapy water splash down in the cracks and mess up the electronics, either. [Just kidding -- I disassembled the whole thing and left the guts on my desk, and even put plastic/tape over the serial sticker.] Once it was clean, it looked great. Switch cleaner in the switches, compressed air on the board. And I took internal shots for all you fine folks, ‘cause I know how much some of you love innards. It was initially giving me some fairly staticky picture, but I swapped the (stock?) RF cord for a “known” good one out of a Vader, and the static dissipated (see Question #1, below). I need to adjust the color a little, but it’s most certainly a keeper. One of the CX-10s works perfectly, one doesn’t even register, which I hope I’ll be able to diagnose easier than a “partially working” one. I figure it might just be a loose connection or something -- both controller ports on the console are fully functional according to the test cart. And while I prefer a nice and TIGHT joystick (like a new-out-of-the-box CX-40), this CX-10 is like a revelation. I’d never played on one before, and it’s just so SMOOTH! No hex discs, but no big deal. I still need to clean the paddles to see how they play, too. Two questions: 1) Why is it that the “nice” RF-style cables I’ve purchased or acquired ($10-$12 at modern electronic stores) almost always give inferior, staticky signal compared to the old ones I’ve “borrowed" from other VCS consoles? 2) What would you experts say a haul like this should be priced at these days (summer 2015)? Again, I’m very happy with what I paid, but four-year-old posts saying “Pfft, I’d never pay more than $XX for ____.” don’t really tell one much of anything as far as “current market price". That was then, this is now, right? I’m not planning on selling, or even parting with it, but I’d love to be able to thank my wife by letting her know just what a good deal she sniffed out. I’m stoked. My first “true” H6. Now if you’ll excuse me, I have some Berzerk and Pac-Man 8K to play. ----------- Sears "Heavy Sixer" Model - Cartridge Telegames System Video Arcade (Sears) Serial - 88378T Sticker Type - White, single Mfg - Sunnyvale, CA QC Date - 1172.S / "99 33700008 . #" Casing Date Hotstamp - (None) Motherboard Rev. - Rev 6 (CO10433) Switchboard Rev - Rev 5 (CO10462) Other Markings - (see left joystick port sticker)
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