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Found 15 results

  1. Links Website Forum Topic Notes Composite and S-Video output Video only. No audio output Premade kits available Plug n Play version available for revisions containing a CD4050 chip Keeps RF circuit intact. Can use RF in conjunction w/ Composite and S-Video to output to multiple TVs at the same time NTSC & PAL support
  2. Links Website Review by Ben Heck Notes Composite and S-Video output Stereo Audio Design only, premade kits no longer sold
  3. I purchased an S-Video cable from a UK seller on ebay. He thought it would work fine. It displays only in black and white and no sound. I found a thread on your forums from Google search, but it was really old which is why I'm starting a new one. In that conversation people were talking about faulty boards, soldering fixes etc, but also someone pointed out that a UK cord wouldn't work properly on NTSC system. Is that all it is? Wrong S-Video cable? If so do you all know where I can pick up an NTSC Jaguar S-Video cable?
  4. Hi, some years ago I gave a promise to an ABBUC member to make a video-out solution for his Atari 400 without the need of changing parts, scratching conducting paths or any other destructive mod to his Atari 400. He´s a real "hardcore" collector with no way in give-and-take regarding this point. After tinkering around with an "add-on" PCB for the GTIA socket I failed, because there´s not enough space. Of course - from a collector´s view - it´s a No-Go to remove the metal cabinet, so I decide to create a complete new CPU board with the needed components directly on it. I´ve reached the goal by 99%. A very little bit of soldering is required and the need to drill one hole into the metal assembly - the shielded video cable needs a place to break out, there´s no way else than making a new 5 mm hole somehwere in the upper part of the metal assembly. So here´s my solution: The Super Color CPU Card for Atari 400 and Atari 800 systems This PCB is a complete replacement for the original CPU card in any Atari 400 or 800 using PAL or NTSC. This PCB works NOT with SECAM. You are able to use both CPU-types found in the Atari 400 and Atari 800 series, the standard 6502B MOS CPU (without HALT signal) and the Atari-specialized version 6502C, also called "Sally". Chips (CPU, ANTIC and CTIA or GTIA) are not included and must be pulled of the built-in Atari CPU card. But they are always in sockets, so it´s easy. Circuitry on this PCB is nearly 100% the same like at the genuine Atari CPU card with some changes to make it possible to use both CPU types. You only need to set five jumpers to select the desired CPU type. Addiitonal the PAL color clock generation circuit is onboard for PAL systems. There´s a seperate jumper to select PAL or NTSC - this jumper connects the GTIA "PALC" pin to either the output of the PAL color clock generator or directly to 3,57 MHz system clock (NTSC). Only for clarifying this: You can´t just switch the jumper and make a NTSC system to a PAL computer or vice versa. At least you´ve to change ANTIC, GTIA and of course the system clock crystal at the mainboard At least a third jumper block (not existing an the prototype shown on the picture above) enables/disables the 75 Ohm termination resistors for Luma, Chrominance or CVBS output. This setting must be tested depending on the connected monitor or television - sometimes the picture quality is better with, sometimes without termination resistors. The video out solution is based on the Atari 800 XL video circuitry without mixing Luma and Chroma together. Of course the well-known mods are already integrated. The final signals are amplified and filtered by the Fairchild FMS6410 VideoAmp. This chip also generates the CVBS signal. So you can use either S-Video (Y/C) for best picture quality or CVBS for common monitors and televisions which doesn´t accept S-Video (Y/C) input. Please notice: This video solution can´t performing magic. I test it on different computer monitors and televisions. The best performance - as ever in every setting with old computers - will be shown on CRT (tube) monitors or televisions. Of course for Atari 400 owners EVERYTHING is better than the antenna (RF) output, but don´t expect a higher quality than the regular Atari 800 S-video output. It might be better, but I can´t promise. That´s impossible by the dozens of different monitors, cables, T.V. systems and so on. Scope of delivery One PCB "Super Color CPU Card" for Atari 400 or Atari 800 computers, capable using 6502B or 6502C CPU, runs on PAL or NTSC systems A manual (illustrated installation instructions) in german and english (sent by email with shipping out notice) One DIN connector 5 pin to lead out the video signals (optional for Atari 800 users) approx 50 cm shielded cable for video out approx 50 cm shielded cable for internal audio connection (optional for Atari 800 users) I offer two versions of the PCB "Standard" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, standard HASL surface (as shown in the picture above) "Gold" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, gold-finished (ENIG) surface (like my Sys-Check and many other solutions) The ENIG (gold-finished) surface is more rugged against rust and fouling. Because the naked PCB price doubles when choosing ENIG at this board size, I offer two versions. Prices One "Standard" PCB = 48 Euros each One "Gold" PCB = 59 Euros each Registered and insured shipping 1 or 2 piece(s) worldwide = 9 Euros Registered and insured shipping 3 or 4 pieces worldwide = 12 Euros More than 4 pieces or specialized = please ask Info: After some bad experiences with some postal services I only ship insured now. Time schedule I will collect orders and payments until the end of January, the 22.th 2017 (GMT) At the end of January I will order the parts and PCBs Assembling and shipping out can take up to 6 weeks, because there´s no holidays for me, assembling will be done in my spare time Depending on shipping time you will get your PCB(s) in March or April 2017 - This is the worst case, but I won´t promise things I can´t realize. So this is a safe suggestion. First payment, first serve: I can´t make all PCBs at one time, so small batches will be made. Date & Time of cleared payment sets the order of shipping out Please sent me a PM (personal message) or leave a post in this thread. You will get an answer soon. Practical hints for Atari 400 users The Atari 400 hasn´t any S-Video/CVBS output and no standard monitor jack, just an antenna (RF) cable. This cable is replaceable, so the best way is to remove the whole cable. You can use the hole in the case where the antenna cable was now for the new video out cable. At the end a standard DIN 5 pin connector coupling is applied. You can use ANY standard CVBS or S-Video cable made for any Atari XL or XE (or the Atari 800) to connect your Atari 400 to a monitor or television. The sound signal must be clamped from the main PCB. Nothing is destructive, only two solder drops at the mainboard of your Atari 400 must be made and one hole with ~5 mm diameter must be drilled in the metal cage for leading the video cable out. Practical hints for Atari 800 users Remark: The Atari 800 has already a quite good video output (S-Video). The CVBS output ranges something in the middle of existing video solutions. The need of my Super Color CPU card isn´t really mandatory for an Atari 800 owner, but it CAN improve video quality. Of course without any promises. I repeat that to make this point of view clear for all interests. The first option is to go ahead like the Atari 400 user. Replace the antenna cable with the new video cable. The existing monitor connector is always out of function when replacing the Atari CPU card with my Super Color CPU Card. Second option for Atari 800 users is to use the existing monitor jack with the new Chroma, Luma and CVBS signal. For this purpose the best way is to bend away the three connections from the mainboard to the power-PCB transmitting these three signals. This is reversible, non-destructive and needs only four additional drops of solder at the monitor jack. The manual will show how to do and also point at the junctions where to grab the audio signal, too. If you want, the external monitor DIN 5 pin coupling connector is already soldered. Leave your wish with your order, otherwise I will ask when confiming your payment. Any questions? Feel free to ask Jurgen
  5. Hi, do you have experience with Ambery S-Video to HDMI Converter Scaler (item#DVH3). I'm mainly concerned about the conversion lag, is it something to worry about ? I have tested their S-Video to VGA converter, I'm ok with the image quality but for the future use the HDMI seems to be better option. Thank you in advance. Best regards, Peter
  6. I'm looking for a legitimate set of S-Video cables that will work on the SNES, N64 and GC. From the reviews I am reading on various sites some cheaper S-Video cables are actually just a passthrough for a composite signal. No! What is the point of that. Below are a set that I found on Amazon and appear to be pretty cheap and actually put out an S-Video signal. Can anyone confirm that based on the listing? If not is there another set somewhere you can confirm are legitimate S-Video signal cables in the Nintendo output style? My application is for an SNES mini and N64 being hooked up to my CRT with S-Video inputs. I have found S-Video looks great and is the best way to get a decent picture out of your system without resorting to mods (which I often do anyway, lol) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LE3EAIK/?coliid=I1LBKDS0R8LAYR&colid=3C9JYID8UW0H3&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  7. I know it's been asked on here before but I have some other specifics that I would like to know for the Amstrad GX4000. First off I live in the U.S. and dont have a TV compatible with SCART. I use an Atlona PAL to NTSC converter that I use to display PAL games on my NTSC AMIGA CD32. I was looking at maybe getting a SCART to S-Video cable like this one https://www.amazon.com/MonsterVideo3-SCART-Stereo-S-Video-Adapter/dp/B0000D8CIC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1481618378&sr=8-6&keywords=scart+to+s-video and I know I will need a step up converter too. I haven't really looked at one specifically but do you guys think a 300 watt one will work? and If so, will I be all set with this stuff? Thank you
  8. Hello! I have been drawing a new layout for the "Little Brother Grows Up" schematic this afternoon. Since I am only an amateur and lack some technical knowledge (e.g. I do not understand why there are two further capacitors - C1 and C5 - necessary in this schematic, both just connecting the top of C188 - a mainboard capacitor - to its bottom). I put them in anyway. If one only wants composite, it should be perfectly "legal" to leave out R12, AFAIK. Since I also sincerely doubted the necessity of another CD4050 on the board (since there already is A111 on the mainboard and in the original schematics, the output signals from this CD4050 are directly fed into just another CD4050), I left it out (this has been done with the 2600 s-video mod from the FAQ already, with good results). AFAIK, Instead of tapping the CD4050s output from various resistors on the mainboard, it is also possible to bend up pins 2,4,6,10 and 12 and solder the mod to these pins. Please check the design for any mistakes (as I said,i am an amateur) before trying it yourself. Oh, and sorry for the lying resistors depicted - several of them need to stand upright, but the software I used doesn't allow that.
  9. Just before the New Year, I got my very first Sixer. So far, I've only owned 2 Juniors (older 84' Short Rainbow and newer 91' Long Rainbow), a Junior-like clone and a Vader-style clone, but never even saw a "Woody" with my own eyes before. This one came from a local auction site, at the price of $22 with P&P included. I knew it's going to need some work, because it was being sold as "TV can't detect it" (and it wasn't the original owner, but a re-seller who specialises in grabbing retro stuff from a german flea market - so typical in Poland, we just never had any market for consoles till 90's), but hey! it was the only way for me to get one below $60-100 in here. When it's arrived, it was dirty on the outside and literally full of filth inside. It didn't have any of the original 6 screws, but instead some random 3 to just barely hold it all in one piece. The reason for it not working quickly became apparent... some idiot has replaced the original cable with an antenna one, breaking off the plastic tab in the opening for the cable, to be able to push the bigger plug thru. And sice the antenna plug is bigger than the RCA-type socket on the switchboard, he's squashed it with pliers or something, to hold it in place. Of course it has broken loose, and since the cable was a total shit anyway, I've temporarily replaced it with one of mine to test the picture. But the TV still didn't detect anything... I touched the volage regulator and it was cold - sure sign of nothing going thru. Fortunately it didn't require any detective work, as I've quickly found a broken solder joint on the power adapter socket. Cleaned it up and secured with huge blobs of solder. In the meantime, the case took a bath. I've cleaned the black residue (oxidation) on the switches with CIF cleaning cream and a dense sponge, worked quite well. Everything was ready for the final test. Then came a nasty surprise. I plugged in the first cart around - Outlaw and... the second cowboy kept firing contantly. At first I panicked that it's a dead TIA and I will have to either desolder it from the younger Junior, or simply take it out of the socket on the older one, but I didn't want to sacrifice that one! Luckily, the Sixers differ a bit and it wasn't a TIA issue, but damaged hexbuffer chip (4050), as described in this topic . For starters, I bridged the pins 6 and 7 to see if that helps, and it worked like a charm. Since I'm just learning how to solder/desolder, I couldn't pass on the opportunity and decided to put in a socketed replacement. I've managed to find a perfect match (CD4050BCN) in my usual electronics store. Since I've already tampered with the motherboard, why not install a small inductor-bypass mod so that I don't run into trouble trying certain games. Now that the VCS was in perfect working order, it was time for S-vide mod. I did identical one on my older Junior and it was very happy with it, no need to disable the modulator, no cut traces, no soldering components to the motherboard like some crap AV mods. Just a wire-ribbon going from TIA socket to the mod board. Later secured it with hot-glue, before closing the metal box. I already had a bunch of RCA sockets attached to pieces of wire, from my attempts with the Junior, to quickly test if everything works ok.: Not to drill thru the metal, I've let the ribbon out using the opening meant for trimpot access, and closed the box. At the top of the picture, you can see the large blobs of solder that hold the power socket I mentioned earlier. All that was left was finding a nice spot for the mod board to sit at and secure it in place with hot-glue. The cable going outside is detachable (using a standard 2.54mm raster "gold-pin" connector), so that I can replace it with another one, or a bunch of standard sockets installed at the back of the console without touching the mod board itself. Right now, I'm using a cable that splits into 4 RCA jacks, to connect to my Commodore 1084S monitor. Having all the bits inside, it was the time to close the case, but the foam dust-protector discs were missing. I cut out my own from a piece of 2mm PVC craft foam. They were a bitt too large, so I needed to snip off the excess on the sides, so that they don't collide with the "support pillars" where the case screws go. Good that I chose to cut square openings in them, so that they won't turn sideways! I've put in new (sheet metal) screws and voila! The unit plays great and I've stress-tested it for hours now. Doesn't glitch, likes all carts, works perfectly with joys, paddles and driving controllers. Definately worth all the effort, considering the initial price. Last step will be repainting the decorative orange strip around the switches' panel, I'll post the results here once done. Comments and questions more than welcome.
  10. From the album: 2600

    Scrap built S-Video mod to 2600 Jr. Cell phone photo Zenith 27" CRT.
  11. So I made a bunch of RGB, S-Video, and AV mod kits for various systems. They are all licensed under CC-BY-NC-SA 3.0 I do not know anything about who has the intellectual property rights to the circuits themselves, I only designed the boards. [i will eventually go back and either link sources or come up with my own circuits to negate potential claims] on a related note I need an O-scope If someone has a claim and does not want these listed/sold etc, PM me or something. I only sell the ones that I have rights to. (To clarify the THS7314 RGB mod kits I sell are pretty much exactly what is in the specs in the PDF for the thing itself. I have rights only over the physical board design) Specifically for personal use and or installing inside of other peoples systems I don't care at all if you print these and install them as part of a 'mod service'. https://easyeda.com/hotdog6394
  12. ElectronicSentimentalities http://electronicsentimentalities.com/InstallationServices.html Spectacular...If I had to choose one word to describe both my dealings with and the end results of the service that ElectronicSentimentalities offers, spectacular would be that word. I have had the pleasure of purchasing and currently own the Best 7800 Composite mod system, a 7800 system mod from Yurkie, and now one from ElectronicSentimetalities. Yurkie was dead on the money recommending their service after discontinuing the one he provided. The recommendation meant a lot to me, knowing how satisfied I was and how awesome Yurkie's work was on the 7800, for him to recommend another - I knew it had to be good. I was wrong. It is not good, but excellent. Joe was friendly, fast, and a pleasure to deal with; including shipping my console back way before the expected return date. Further, the price is extremely reasonable. You get S-Video, Composite, and audio out jacks. The composite picture is the clearest I have seen and the S-Video is even more stunning. Being that I own a "CPS 7800 Diagnostic Test Cartridge'', the console was tested, and the color calibration was shown to have been performed perfectly as well. The console was packaged very carefully when sent back including a second box with padding/insulation in addition to the one I utilized sending my system out. Externally, you could not tell (Outside of the new connectors) the system was even touched. In fact, it was wrapped nearly exact the way I shipped it. You're not a DIY console mod person or not very good at it; or just want the ease and convenience of having your 7800 system mod done beautifully and professionally with spectacular results, this would be the place your console needs to go. Highly recommended and highly impressed - Bravo, Joe/ElectronicSentimentalities.
  13. From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component

    My Atari 2600 4-Switch Woodgrain Console Modded for Composite A/V, S-Video and YPbPr Component using Tim Worthington's (etim's) 2600RGB Mod. with an additional 2600RGB to Component Add-On Board. I'm very happy and pleased with this mod.

    © Activision Man aka SavyIsJoshoArts

  14. Links Website Notes Composite, S-Video, and RGB output Easy install if TIA is socketed Six different color palettes Supports NTSC and PAL Premade kit available 4 Switcher Installation Guide
  15. MUNCIE INDIANA LOCAL PICKUP ONLY - MUST HAVE A TRUCK OR VAN this will NOT fit in your sedan; even if your seats fold down. Have a dolly/hand-truck. 37" screen, great picture and sound. Just replaced wheels and the speaker cones were all but dust;;; replaced with some $45 car audio speakers from Wal-Mart. The speakers wouldn't fit so I cut the holes bigger with a Dremel, not the prettiest job but you can't see that because the speaker covers hide it. They sound as good/better than the original speakers. See pics, the back has additional hookups for satellite speakers, though the built ins, I believe most people would find more than sufficient (miles better than the tin-cans TVs have now-a-days). The CRT has no scuffs/scratches. The console has some minor scuffs hardly noticeable, and one pretty good one on the top right (a few inches long). The glass door on the front works, but needs re-mounted properly. I'd not used it, and when I put it back on, I didn't have the proper screws/mounts so its not on super-sturdy, but easily fixed. Dual S-Video hookups; perfect for some old school gaming. The CRT is not removable from the console/cabinet - it's all ONE PIECE. It weighs probably ~150+ pounds; guessing. When you push it across the carpet, it's so heavy it wants to roll up your carpet if your not careful. It is 45 1/4" tall. 39" wide. 21 1/2" deep (at base). and of course the CRT is 37" diagonal. Looking for $100 even. Would trade for Atari 8-bit (800/xl/xe series; not 2600) stuff, nothing particular, but even if I already have, I love spares/extra I just don't have the room for this monster floor model :-(
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