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Showing results for tags 'capacitors'.
Found 11 results
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As some might know, my Vectrex died on me about 3-4 years ago. It just suddenly stopped working. I get nothing except crackling in the neck bulb of the CRT. I suspect it's a power board issue but have no idea if the CRT is working. So my plan is to take out the boards and do a rebuild, starting with a recap. I'll work on the logic board first. If I can get that working and producing something, such as sound, then I know I have a fair chance of getting some of the other stuff working. Whether or not I'll ever get the rest of it working is another thing but it'll at least give me the option of selling the boards as refurbs or keeping them as spares for when I get another machine. I've never recapped anything before, though, so how hard/easy is it on the Veccy? My worry is trying to do the power board because of the voltages involved. Are there cap kits available in the UK?
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Hello I have an Atari 2600A (4-switch wood panel) Rev. 13 board. I was wondering if anyone might know the voltage rating on the capacitors used in the Oscillator circuit on the Rev. 13 board? I haven't been able to find an Atari Service manual for the Rev. 13 board either to help identify the voltage rating. Thank you, puppet -
Hi, I am looking to replace the audio capacitors in my Atari 2600. The existing ones are 820pf Polystyrene and I am trying to find a direct replacement I can order from RS or Mouser here in the UK. Can anyone give me a some guidance on what I can use to replace them? I have been told I can use 820pf MLCC but do not know any more about the specs / datasheet in order to decide which to order. Any help is greatly appreciated. Alternatively does anyone in the UK do these kits like console5? https://console5.com/store/atari-2600-total-refresh-kit-new-capacitors.html The postage to the UK just makes ordering from those guys way too expensive. Joe
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I just got my Model 1 VA6.x (not sure if it's 6.5 or 6.8) recapped with new capacitors from console5.com. Got them soldered by a local PC repair shop. But I'm pretty sure it's not suppose to sound like this. It's pretty loud and drowns out alot of detail in the music and the treble seems high and shrill sounding depending on the instrument playing. My original childhood VA7 however sounds great in comparison, with punchier bass and percussion. It's much more balanced sounding. And the VA7 is supposed to be the "stinker" model 1s. What's the deal? Is there another component on the board bad on the VA6.x? Something to do with the low or high pass filter? I pretty much don't know anything about electronics/circuitry. Any idea what the problem could be? Thanks!
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I noticed Cosole 5 has a cap kit for the Jaguar: http://console5.com/store/atari-jaguar-cap-kit.html Anyone ever bothered or felt the need to replace caps on a jag? I feel like I've never noticed jailbars or rainbow banding, but someone was talking about it in a recent Raiden thread. Would a new Cap kit help with that or is it an unrelated problem? Having had many of my handheld and other consoles re-capped recently, and now having access to an awesome local AV mod guy, I am considering it. Any thoughts on new caps for the Jag, necessary, unnecessary, etc?
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Did ceramic caps replace the 104 0.1uf caps on c56 and c57 on the motherboard? I was told this would work in place of them https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=104pF&_sacat=0 Is this information correct?
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Hello, So first a bit of a disclaimer - I am a bit of a noob when it comes to electronics repair et all - my soldering is crap, and I am definitely learning this stuff as I go along - so please pardon what I am certain is going to be apparent ignorance. I have a 2600 jr rev E which is displaying poor colors (screen appears mostly greyscalish/monochromatic with some yellow/green tinting on the sprites. I tried adjusting the color pot, which you can tell is affecting the underlying colors but onscreen the result is just changing the grey levels so the screen still remains mostly monochromatic. Adjusted the RF pot to no effect either. Low hanging fruit (IE assumption on my part) seemed like it might be a bad cap, so I purchased a recap kit from console5 for the JR. Replaced the caps (polarity on the caps is correct) Turned the machine back on, colors were perfect for 1 second, and then it reverted to the same symptoms, only this time with audio distortion as well. Ordering ESR meter from amazon to check caps, but while I wait the two days for prime to deliver, I would love to get the communities input. 1) What should I be checking to troubleshoot this? 2) I have another 2600 jr that works (I haven't opened it yet so not sure what rev the board is) - so I could desolder and swap TIA if that's appropriate (my inclination is to socket the chips as well, my board has all three chips soldered to board - so if there is room, I think I will socket them) 3) This is probably a really dumb question - but I am curious all the same, the Jr cap kits comes with new caps for C20, C26, C27, C29, C37 c26 is obviosuly the big cap @ 2200uF 16v the other four c20, c27, c29, c37 are listed @ 4.7uF 35v in the console5 wiki (https://console5.com/wiki/Atari_2600) That said the kit from console5 only comes with 3 replacement caps instead of four. My particular revision lacks c29 so 3 caps were fine, but are there revisions which have all four caps on them? Or does each board revision have only a combination of three of those four caps? . Thanks Xamfear
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Hello everyone. I have a Sega Genesis Model 2 (more specifically an mk-1631). It was having problems loading known good games past the Sega Logo. These games load on two other Genesis systems that I have. So: 1. I tried to re-tension the slot. That didn't work, and the carts were still loose, so. 2. I soldered in a new cartridge slot, did a continuity test on all of the pins (it passed) so I tried again. Still, wouldn't pass the Sega screen. 3. I soldered in a new reset button at this point for good measure. The old one had a worn out rubber cap. That works correctly now. 4. So, I tested the capacitors, some were bad, so I re-capped the board. All new capacitors passed a capacitance test and the new connections passed a continuity test. So I tried again. Same issue. Won't pass the Sega screen on known good cartridges. My question is, what do I do now since, in theory, there isn't a problem with the cartridges, cartridge slot, or capacitors? -
I recently acquired a Triton Super XB cart and am having trouble booting it. I have 2 TI's and it doesn't boot in one of them. On the other it boots if I have it seated just right. I really can't explain what "just right" means - it takes a few tries fidgeting with the cart. Once the cart is bootable, it will always boot until I pull it out of the slot. I've already reseated the socketed chips, and I think I will try replacing the capacitors next. I just want to make sure I have the right values though... As far as I can tell there are two types, but I need some help identifying them. The first type is an orange one with the marking "33-16". Google tells me that this is a tantalum 33 uF cap. The second type is a blue one that has the marking "104M". This appears to be a 100 nF ceramic cap. Pics of caps and cartridge board are attached. Am I right on the cap identification? Is there something else I should be doing with the cart to get it to boot?
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Lynx Model 2 - Capacitor Replacement
-^CrossBow^- posted a blog entry in -^CroSBow^-'s Hardware Videos
Just did a capacitor replacement on my Atari Lynx model 2 this weekend. One of my two units was suffering from some nasty audio clipping, distortion and overall low volume. The camera was on a lower quality shooting mode and I did realize until I was done with the filming. I apologize for that but you can still make out enough to get see the overall process and results afterwards. -
I am about to purchase a Sega Genesis Model 1. My local plan n' trade has a few "High Definition Graphics" models available, and I have had them set aside a TMSS one and a non-TMSS one for me (I'm a good customer What are peoples thought's on this? Here is my take right now- TMSS Model- Higher video/audio quality due to higher quality capacitors. Downside being some games locked out... Non-TMSS model: Will play all games, Dry capacitors can lead to rainbow banding and other picture/sound quality issues. I'm thinking go with the TMSS model and if a few games are locked out, so be it, it will be worth the higher video/audio quality. I'm thinking that's a cheaper option than replacing the capacitors on a non-TMSS model? What are your thoughts?
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