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Found 5 results

  1. I just got a "Mexican" Tandy Color Computer this weekend from a local seller. The computer albeit dirty is powering just fine and showing up video (both RF and Composite). However, I cannot get any key to be recognized. Initially thought it may could be an issue of the dirt accumulated both on the computer and keyboard. So dismantled the whole thing and gave a soappy watter + magic eraser treatment (and a bit of retrobiting) to the plastic pieces. The electronics received the usuak IPA rubbing and contact cleaner treatment. I noticed nothing really bad there... no apparent broken traces or anything. However after putting the computer back together I am still not getting any response from the keyboard. Checked Power supply and voltages.. all seem ok. I searched online and got the service manual for this model. However, keyboard troubleshooting is quite skim. Just a few checks: Check flex cable and CN2: both seem to be ok, No visual disconnects or broken lines on the flex membrane (at least not at the visible part of it coming out of the keyboard). BTW, I noticed the flex cable has 16 pins and pin 3 is connected to nothing as the whole trace is not there, however that seems to be like that from the factory. Check Pin 23 (CS2*) of IC5: Not really sure what to look for here. With the multimeter this pin seems to be set to 4.47 V Check D8-D11, C18, C19, C22, C23 and IC14 (NAND Gate): All these components seems to be just fine, tested with multimeter for shorts or expected behaviors. I aksi tested IC14 and given the inputs of the 4 different gates it contains seems to be working just fine. Not sure where to take it from here... I dismantled the keyboard, cleaned thoroughly all the keys, springs and sprungs. Gave the membrane a good cleaning with IPA.. however, the keyboard refuses to give any sign of life. Any pointers? How can I troubleshoot the membrane? Are there any replacements available? Regards.
  2. https://www.ebay.com/itm/284342035708?hash=item42341b24fc:g:hWUAAOSwQMVg0UVT Predator Rad Warrior Downland with manual Clowns & Balloons Dungeons of Daggorath & Roman Checkers with manual These are on Ebay now, but while it's still up if someone here can make me an offer let me know & I can remove it & deal with you directly Thanks for looking
  3. https://www.ebay.com/itm/284349789195?hash=item423491740b:g:N2YAAOSwc3Bg2PR9 These are on Ebay now, but while it's still up if someone here can make me an offer let me know & I can remove it & deal with you directly Thanks for looking
  4. $399 OBO for the Coco3 w joysticks & cables : https://www.ebay.com/itm/284349789195?hash=item423491740b:g:N2YAAOSwc3Bg2PR9 $100 OBO for 6 games: (Predator, Rad Warrior, Downland with manual, Clowns & Balloons,Dungeons of Daggorath & Roman Checkers with manual) https://www.ebay.com/itm/284342035708?hash=item42341b24fc:g:hWUAAOSwQMVg0UVT Thanks for looking. Being the Coco is a pretty niche part of retrogaming, hope some of you might be interested here.
  5. Well I finally got my Coco 3 today...Hooking it up to my TV & firing up Super Pitfall gave me the biggest wave of nostalgia I've had in a while ..It was like I was transported right back to the floor of my parent's living room in the late 80's lol I had the black, non self-centering joystick though when I was a kid, but this time around I got the Deluxe model. Super Pitfall & a couple other games played with no problem, but others like Thexder & Rad Warrior I couldn't get to work right. I read the manual online about the switches on the bottom & dials on the top that I was never familiar with, but no matter what I tried, nothing seemed to help. Sure it's one simple thing I'm overlooking. For Thexder the button is making him jump, but the joystick does nothing...Same with Tetris, the button drops the tiles down but nothing else works...on Rad Warrior the character just runs on his own until he gets stuck in a corner where he proceeds to run in place lol..Same thing with a couple others I've tried so far, button works but joystick doesn't...yet there are a few games where I have no issues Another thing...I was disappointed to see vertical lines on the screen on my flatscreen with the composite input. They're not bad enough to where it's unplayable though at least, but I could def do without them...I haven't tried the RF yet, but I imagine it would look worse. The picture from my modded 7800, Genesis & Super NES composite outputs is clear on the other hand....But my NES, when I 1st hooked it up to this TV it appeared to be fine..Shortly after the AC Adapter went bad (Generic universal NES/SNES/Genesis plug)..Once I got a replacement (Official NES) I now get thin wavy lines in the background of every game I happen to be using the same RCA cables on the Coco 3 that I was just using on the NES..But the chances of the cable itself being the problem would be too good to be true I'm sure...I have no others ATM, so no way to test another set anyways..Can anyone shed any light on any possible solution? I don't want to get a seperate CRT TV or play on a monitor (nor have the space if I wanted to) Thanks in advance, Steve
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