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Showing results for tags 'composite mod'.
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Hi all. Happy new year! For the past ten years or so, I have been fixing Atari consoles and often I install AV mods as part of the process. At the beginning I was using a simple amplifier as many projects on the internet do, but I was not very happy with the video quality, so I quickly moved to the digital buffer approach. As I convert a far number of consoles every year, from time to time I will run out of PCBs and, instead of just re-ordering the same design, I try to improve it and make it easier to install, better video and audio quality, etc... Around 2018 I joined my AV design with my game pause mod: Here are some examples of my previous mods: The last PCB on the right is the one I used until mid last year. There were a few things I liked about it: It had AV and pause integrated, so it was easier to install than two separate mods There was no need to modify the console case for the AV cable The pause was controlled by the COLOR switch, so no extra switch installation The pause could be completely deactivated and the COLOR button could be used to switch the game to BW It could be mounted directly on top of the TIA and the labels on the pins made it easier to know which pins to connect for NTSC and PAL consoles. The connections were made straight down which avoided making wrong connections As it was time to order PCBs again, I started working on a new design to include some features I collected on my wish list: An easier way to configure the board for NTSC or PAL. On the last board I made, a resistor network for this, which meant I needed to decide if I wanted it to be used for NTSC or PAL as I built the mod and it was not possible to change it afterwards Gemini support. As the Gemini has a different TIA, I had to reroute the connections manually, which made the installation much more complicated and error prone An LED indicator for the pause state Better connections for the AV cable A better solution for the audio and video chaos while the game is paused. The old board had addressed a lot of the problem, but that was a lot of room for improvement So I came up with the design above which has a single jumper to configure PAL, NTSC and Genesis and the legends next to the pins show which TIA pins should be connected for each console type. This makes it easier to install the mod and also change the console type after the board was build. The other features are also included: 2600Mod_en.mov This is how it looks like installed in a Gemini: So far I have converted a couple of dozens of PAL, NTSC and Gemini consoles with this new mod and I am quite happy with the result. This time I ordered a larger number of PCBs though, so if anyone would like get one of these mods, I will soon put them on eBay for 29€, or you can pm me here. Cheers.
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- atari 2600
- atari 2600 jr
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I recently acquired an Atari 2600, 4 switch Darth Vader PAL model. I installed a composite video mod but my console will not produce any sound or video signal. Sometime it gives a beeping sound with varying pitch, other rare times it gives static on the screen, but most times no video signal and just static. The seller stated that the thing was tested before transport and was well packaged. Things I've done: Replaced the two capacitors with 830pf 50v ceramic ones. Removed all the required components for composite mod. Checked all the traces, including mods, all good. Checked the voltage regulator, all good. Checked the transistors and inductors, all good. Checked the chips for activity, getting a signal. Checked the AV sockets, getting 1V with the video out. I'm out of things to test and can't come to a diagnosis. Is there anything I've missed? These are pictures my current progress, still no luck.
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First, I know there are other threads about issues after doing a composite mod, but I haven't seen the issue I'm having. The composite mod I did was the one from tfw8bit. I followed the instructions for NTSC and it was done on a 4 switch model. I've included a picture of the issue I'm seeing. And before I did the mod it wasn't there. I've replaced the 2200uf capacitor and went back and checked all my solder joints. I'm at a loss as to where to look next. Any help would be appreciated.
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Hi Everyone: I previously posted in this thread, but it was suggested we break this out to its own thread for folks with similar hardware and issues to reference going forward. Back in April 2017 I purchased an NTSC composite-modded Woody 4-switch CX2600A from @Osgeld. It had been working great but was in storage for the past year unused (climate-controlled, dry finished basement in closed Rubbermaid storage container). I recently pulled it out after purchasing a Harmony cart for it, and when I hooked it back up it was not displaying color, only black and white. The black and white switch still works, as evidenced when playing Adventure and switching it I can see the grayscale changing. Here's a picture of the composite mod, which Osgeld mentioned in the previous thread: In the other thread, it was suggested I clean out and adjust the R213 pot which affects color. I used some electrical contact cleaner and adjusted it back and forth to free up any corrosion, but it did not fix the issue. I know it's getting voltage as I measured it, which I'll reference below. I also noted I can see some convergence going on when adjusting it either way, so it seems to be working as intended. The good folks in the previous thread asked me to take some voltage measurements of the areas of the board responsible for the color signal, which I've copied here: R213 - 6.22 R212 left side - 9.52 R212 right side - 6.23 TIA pins 9 and 20 - 5.02 TIA pin 10 - 4.66 I put in Asteroids, and yes voltage on pin 9 changed to 2.75. Turning the pot clockwise about a quarter turn increases voltage slightly to 2.82. Counter clockwise a half turn and it goes down to 1.81. For Pin 10, turning the pot clockwise about a quarter turn increases to 5.95. Counter clockwise a half turn and it goes down to 0.35. I was also asked to measure the voltage along the traces for multiple resistors. For orientation, please reference the picture below: ^ Top; v Bottom C210 "bottom" - 4.78 C210 "top" - 5.02 R210 "bottom" - 4.98 R210 "top" - 5.01 C211 "bottom" - 0.19 <- I wonder if this could be the problem? C211 "top" - 4.98 R222 "bottom" - 0.19 R222 "top" - 0.00 C215 "bottom" - 0.19 C215 "top" - 0.00 Upon close inspection, C211 doesn't look to be a stock resistor (maybe part of the mod performed?) and might suffer from a cold solder joint as referenced by a poster in the other thread: Or maybe those voltage readings are completely normal...I dunno. Here are some other pictures of the circuit board and mod for reference: The good folks @ChildOfCv, @DrVenkman, @fdr4prez and @-^CrossBow^- helped me get to where I am now, but I need some help to further diagnose this issue and identify a fix. Also, as I mentioned, this will be a good reference in the future for others with this mod setup. TIA!
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I've been trying to mod my intellivion 2 to output composite video. I almost have the thing working, but the video signal is still having problems. text characters will start to shake after about 3 seconds of running, and there is a white line going down the screen lined up with the characters. I tried putting a 2000uf cap across the 5v line, but that didn't do anything. Ive checked the mod board multiple time times, but haven't found any problems with it that fixed the signal. also the rf modulator never output any video signal so i don't have any way to see if its a problem with the console. also don't have any extra rf modulators or consoles to test with. -
I noticed that when my mod board is connected the 12v connection for the rf modulator drops to like 4v. also noticed that when its disconnected it's still only like 11.4v. And one of the chips on the board gets very hot. I'm wondering if this is why after a few seconds of use the picture becomes less stable (text characters basically shake) Also i took the cage off the rf modulator to make room so not sure if that has anything to do with my problem. been trying to get this thing to work for so long its kind of annoying.
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Has anyone used the Vintage Gaming and More composite mod for the 2600/7800 on the 5200 machine? I know the RF modulator needs to be removed but do any other resistors or transistors need to be removed also? I searched You Tube but I only found 5200 mods using a UAV board. -
Composite modded 4-switcher has quiet sounds and ghosting picture
Kenal posted a topic in Atari 2600
Hi, everyone! I own 1981 Woodgrain Atari VCS CX2600A which I modded for composite video output and it has several issues. The first problem is ghosting of the picture. And the second problem is about the sound: volume of the 2nd audio channel is a lot lower than the first. I noticed the sound problem playing Pitfall as well as Synth Cart: all sounds in Pitfall are quieter than in other games, and in Synthcart when I turn on a beat on the right keypad it sounds very quiet too. When I switched the right keypad to bass or lead sounds they sound much quieter than sounds on the left keypad. The console has Rev. 13 PCB and AMI 8116XF TIA chip. The PCB hasn't 7805 buffer chip. I modded the console with this scheme: http://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_11_2017/post-62422-0-00139200-1511299299_thumb.png Previously, I tried to mod it with TheFutureWas8Bit's Composite Mod Kit, but the picture was really dark and colors were dull, so I decided that mod amplifies the signal not enough and replace it with the mod on scheme above. I replaced 5K trimmer on that scheme by just a wire because when the resistance is close to zero the picture was better, and when resistance was increased by trimmer, the ghosting effect became worse and the picture was really blurred. Beside the modding, I changed all 3 capacitors in the console and remove and resat all three chips in their cradles. Can anyone suggest what these problems may be related to? The only reason I can imagine is that the TIA chip is defective in some way. Or maybe I should test something else? -
I just got done doing a composite mod on an atari 2600 and thought I would go over some issues incase anyone else experiences the same problem I had. Instead of getting the parts and doing it myself I figured I'd just buy the kit because it came with everything plus has a nice looking PCB and also it was about as cheap as me getting all the parts separately but here is the mod kit I got http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-2600-7800-Composite-Video-Mod-Upgrade-Kit-DIY-/311653998049?hash=item4890069de1:g:JV0AAOSwnbZYHzc7 I bought two of them and will be modding another 2600 to compare and post back the results. Well to start off with I bought a GPX KCLD8886DT under cabinet TV to put at my work bench thinking it would make a good TV to test consoles. Well I hooked up my atari flashback in thru AV and everything was fine, it looked perfect. Then I hooked a Vader 2600 to it thru RF and looked normal for RF. I did the mod upgrade with the kit and then I hooked it up to that same TV but this time thru AV since mod was done and sound was perfect but had no picture. I kept checking around the board looking for loose solder joints then wiggled the wires right near the ground, +5V and video signal where the RF board used to plug into. The picture came on and looked fine. I'd turn off the console and start it back and same issue again so then I'm thinking I must have a bad solder joint. I look at it real close both sides of board solder looks fine. I reflow it anyway. Still same problem. So then I check the +5V with my oscilloscope, and video signal and used the ground right there first pin for my ground incase the ground was broke somewhere one the board. Everything looked fine I had a video signal there and +5V. Then I look at the video signal on the output and I had a video signal there but still no picture. After scratching my head for awhile I decided to try the Atari 2600 on another TV. Picture perfect(other than some fine vertical jailbars but looks like all the composite modded consoles I've seen pictures of online have that). Took it back to that GPX TV and still had same issue. I figured by that point the problem is that the signal wasn't amplified enough for the GPX to recognize it as a signal so therefore blue screen, and what was happening was I guess when I was wiggling wires and probably touched the video signal and it caused a signal to go up high enough to trick the TV to display the picture. So I decided to show the comparison of the two video signals incase anyone runs into the same problem. I'm including pictures of two separate video out signals with space invaders plugged in. The stronger of the two is the flashback which plays fine on the GPX. Very disappointing because the sole purpose of me getting this TV was to have something small at my workbench and be able to test consoles on. I guess I'll have to get or build a separate amplifier now to plug consoles in that don't have a strong enough video signal. My appologies for the poor picture quality, I took some too with an Iphone but couldn't find the cord and have no service here so couldn't email them to myself so I had to take them with my junk phone. I might try to upload the higher quality images of the scope tomorrow once I can email the pics to myself. My biggest concern with doing this mod if doing for other people is not knowing who's TVs this will work on and who's it will not so I think I will change some values and try to get it to more closely resemble the amplitude of the flashback unit. I'm going to wait first until I do another mod and make sure the other 2600 also has a weak signal like this one to make sure it isn't anything I overlooked with this console but I don't believe there is. If anyone has any questions or comments about this let me know.
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So, Hi As the title states, I'm searching for PAL A8 items in working condition. - 1200XL - Atari 5200 (no preference over 2 or 4 ports) - PSU for Atari 1010 (got 2 tape players, NONE with a PSU !) - A8 accessories or related goodies (manuals, advertisings, Atari/Koala pad, etc...) In working order, loose, eventually with the PSU for the 1200XL (I have a step-down converter, don't worry), RF cable not mandatory, box & manuals not mandatory ! If you have a bundle of cartdriges for XL/XE pal computers for cheap, I'm interested too I am in France, and I'll pay for the shipping TRACKED and SIGNED FOR even from the USA. PM If you have any of what I'm searching for...
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