Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'game gear'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Atari Systems
    • Atari General
    • Atari 2600
    • Atari 5200
    • Atari 7800
    • Atari Lynx
    • Atari Jaguar
    • Atari VCS
    • Dedicated Systems
    • Atari 8-Bit Computers
    • Atari ST/TT/Falcon Computers
  • Classic Consoles
  • Classic Computing
  • Modern Consoles
  • Gaming General
  • Marketplace
  • Community
  • Community
  • Game Programming
  • Site
  • PC Gaming
  • The Club of Clubs's Discussion
  • I Hate Sauron's Topics
  • 1088 XEL/XLD Owners and Builders's Topics
  • Atari BBS Gurus's Community Chat
  • Atari BBS Gurus's BBS Callers
  • Atari BBS Gurus's BBS SysOps
  • Atari BBS Gurus's Resources
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's CC65
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's ASM
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's Lynx Programming
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's Music/Sound
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's Graphics
  • The Official AtariAge Shitpost Club's Shitty meme repository
  • The Official AtariAge Shitpost Club's Read this before you enter too deep
  • Arcade Gaming's Discussion
  • Tesla's Vehicles
  • Tesla's Solar
  • Tesla's PowerWall
  • Tesla's General
  • Harmony/Melody's CDFJ
  • Harmony/Melody's DPC+
  • Harmony/Melody's BUS
  • Harmony/Melody's General
  • ZeroPage Homebrew's Discussion
  • Furry Club's Chat/RP
  • PSPMinis.com's General PSP Minis Discussion and Questions
  • PSPMinis.com's Reviews
  • Atari Lynx 30th Birthday's 30th Birthday Programming Competition Games
  • 3D Printing Club's Chat
  • Drivers' Club's Members' Vehicles
  • Drivers' Club's Drives & Events
  • Drivers' Club's Wrenching
  • Drivers' Club's Found in the Wild
  • Drivers' Club's General Discussion
  • Dirtarians's General Discussion
  • Dirtarians's Members' Rigs
  • Dirtarians's Trail Runs & Reports
  • Dirtarians's Wrenching
  • The Green Herb's Discussions
  • Robin Gravel's new blog's My blog
  • Robin Gravel's new blog's Games released
  • Atari Video Club's Harmony Games
  • Atari Video Club's The Atari Gamer
  • Atari Video Club's Video Game Summit
  • Atari Video Club's Discsuuions
  • Star Wars - The Original Trilogy's Star Wars Talk
  • PlusCart User's Bug reports
  • PlusCart User's Discussion
  • DMGD Club's Incoming!
  • DASM's General
  • AtariVox's Topics
  • Gran Turismo's Gran Turismo
  • Gran Turismo's Misc.
  • Gran Turismo's Announcements
  • The Food Club's Food
  • The Food Club's Drinks
  • The Food Club's Read me first!
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's Rules (READ FIRST)
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's Feedback
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's Rumor Mill
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's Coming Soon
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's General Talk
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's High Score Arena
  • Adelaide South Australia Atari Chat's General Chat & Welcome
  • Adelaide South Australia Atari Chat's Meets
  • Adelaide South Australia Atari Chat's Trades & Swaps
  • KC-ACE Reboot's KC-ACE Reboot Forum
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Lost Gaming
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Undumped Games
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Tip Of My Tounge
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Lost Gaming Vault
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Club Info
  • GIMP Users's Discussion
  • The Homebrew Discussion's Topics


There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


  • AtariAge Calendar
  • The Club of Clubs's Events
  • Atari BBS Gurus's Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start










Custom Status



Currently Playing

Playing Next

Found 23 results

  1. Any help on this... Recapped my GG (retrosix SMD cap kit), all working now except; Screen is pretty much washed out (contrast adj. works fine) Not all games work (sonic pretty much always works but others either boot to a green screen or nothing at all) Have reflowed the card connector, and screen ribbon. Interestingly once I recapped the sound and power boards, the screen was in colour, but after trying a few games it went back to really washed out. Are there things I should know about the LCD? Places to push or check etc.. Power board outputs correct voltages, both on power and on batteries. I will have a modern upgrade on the power board coming in a few days just in case the regulator/transistors are faulty. Carts have been taken apart and cleaned thoroughly, same deal. This was done because the games are intermittent (the ones that work) which led me to believe connection issue with the games. So everybody, what is next to try? I have a multimeter etc. so can take readings, measure cap values etc. Thank you so much in advance.
  2. Hi Guys, New here but long time stalker! I have recently been recapping and modding a couple of game gears with the genuine McWill LCD kit from retrosix.co.uk. Really happy with the results but one thing I cant work out is if it is possible somehow to control the backlight brightness level using the original wheel or some other method? I have seen it in action on a YouTube video I stumbled across using the original wheel and I would really like to implement it if possible because I find the default brightness to be a bit hard on the eyes (especially if laying in bed at night) and because it is on max brightness all the time I find it still runs the batteries down fairly fast. From what I can tell it would appear that maybe some clone units now have the ability to have adjustable brightness but not the genuine real McCoy McWill ? Does this sound correct? Does anyone know of a a clever way to add this in potentially? Pics of my install below. I currently have 5v connected to pin 1 of the brightness pot and ground to pin 3 as per the instructions on console5 but do not have the backlight or cysnc points connected as per the instructions as I am not using the VGA output. I assume the 5v and Ground to the pot are still necessary though? Currently the brightness wheel doesn't have any effect at all.
  3. I just did the cap replacement on my sound board and main board. I double and triple checked all polarities and caps. I have NOT done the power board yet. Still waiting on the caps. I decided to test it with a few games. I am still getting white screen and no sound. Could this be because the power board is bad? I really hope so... I was so looking forward to resurrecting this childhood system.
  4. Morning all, I pulled my old childhood GameGear from my crawl space a year ago and decided to do the cap replacement since it wasn't working properly. Well, here we are, after doing the main board and the soundboard - still no luck. NOTE: I have not done the power board yet - those caps are on the way. The first time I put batteries in it and powered it on, I saw random small colored rectangles on the screen for about 2 seconds, then it faded to white. Now all I get is a white screen with no sound. I am testing this with multiple games. Turning the volume knob is only met with crackling sounds from the speaker and the brightness knob works, but does not change the screen from anything other than white. I have double and triple checked my caps and their polarity. All solder joints are strong. All polarity is good. A user on another forum mentioned the bubbly ends on my backlight tube... but like I said, the brightness knob works, so I think my tube is fine. I have looked (with amateur's eyes) at the other components on the board and everything looks okay. Could this be because I have yet to do the power board caps? All my caps looked fine with no leakage, but I'm sure that doesn't mean they are still working fine. I am hoping that the power board is the culprit. But in the meantime, anything I should be looking at? [Ignore the red cap in this picture. I know it's bent over the grounding area, but I fixed this before I powered it on as you can't close the case with it like that anyway.]
  5. here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200988746344?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649 Any Qs - be in touch! Many thanks
  6. Hi everyone, I go through a lot of Game Gears and feel that I'm very familiar with them. Recently I acquired a couple, one blue and one grey, which showed "Made in China" on the back label. I found it strange as up until then I was used to seeing Japan, Taiwan, and Malaysia as the country of origin. I opened them up and found they had Japanese VA1 (837-9024) motherboards. The grey one has a different texture on the shell (slightly rougher) but the color is generally the same. The blue one has the same texture difference but is a darker blue than the others I have on hand (Japanese manufacture if I recall). It's bordering on more of a navy blue. Interestingly the screws for the motherboard and shell have a courser thread compared to my other examples. I wasn't aware Game Gears were manufactured in China up until now. I've also never seen another dark blue one in my travels. Everything seems legit and after a full cap replacement they look and work just like any of the others I've refurbished. What's the story on these? I will try to get some pictures up once I get home and get a little time.
  7. I found a variant of the Sega Game Gear front shell that I've never seen before. There are factory molded "holes" or notches on the left side of the d-pad. At first I thought these were cracks or other wear, but after seeing a few other GGs that had the same thing and opening it up, it's clearly intentional. Out of about 100 GGs I've gone through, I've encountered about 8 of these. The d-pad is not different from any other GG and I have no idea why they would do this. Does anyone have one of these and does anyone have any idea why they would do this? It doesn't appear to affect the usage of the d-pad in any way (good or bad).. -gamegrid2084
  8. From the album: My Collection

  9. DoctorSpuds

    Sonic Chaos (Sega)

    From the album: My Collection

  10. DoctorSpuds

    Sonic 2 (Sega)

    From the album: My Collection

  11. I'm in need of a working recapped Game Gear board revision VA0 or VA1 for a mod I have on order. This is what I have for trade. Gameboy Color with IPS screen mod (brightness control is attached to the IR port, I'll throw in my small loose cart collection as well) Everdrive N8 Famicom (with blank 4GB micro SD card) Everdrive N8 NES Mega Everdrive X5 Mega Everdrive V1 deluxe edition (with blank 8GB SD card) I'm in North Carolina 27707
  12. Need some cash to help fund some recent comic book purchases, so I'm looking to sell off a couple bundles! First up: AV-modded ColecoVision system from our very own Yurkie, tested and working, complete with a pause button. Comes with AV cables and AC adapter. Asking $115 shipped within continental U.S. SOLD Next: Game Gear lot, tested and working. Pretty sure it was LCD modded, which would make the Game Gear ~$75 alone. Does not come with plastic cover that generally goes over the screen, but the screen itself is in good condition. Not interested in splitting up the bundle; great starter set! Asking $100 shipped within continental U.S. MOTHERBOARD ISSUE Pics: http://imgur.com/a/ntoiL
  13. I've got a couple of the hard to find and highly sought after Sega Genesis Model 2 consoles and Sega Game Gear systems which both were made by Majesco under license from Sega. I'm guessing if you're reading this you're already "in the know," but the Genesis Model 2 made by Majesco (MK-1451) towards the end of the Genesis' life is the "holy grail" of Model 2 systems, as it has the best video and audio encoders of any of the Model 2s. It has the fourth revision of the Model 2 motherboard, known as VA4. I can do console-only or complete in box on these. Meanwhile, the Game Gear made by Majesco is sought after because it has better quality capacitors than earlier Game Gears, a better LCD screen and also is newer overall, since they were made in 2000. Of note, this model Game Gear is incompatible with the TV Tuner (worthless now anyway) and requires a specific brand of Master System adapter if you're into that, called the Nuby Converter. Everything I sell is cleaned and tested and working. You're always able to purchase with confidence when dealing with me. Look no further than my AA feedback, which will show you I've been selling on AA for more than two years and have been an AA member for more than three years. If there's interest here, I would be happy to provide pictures and discuss pricing via PM. Otherwise, I will likely look to eBay in the coming weeks to unload these. Thanks!
  14. I recently saw that an AA seller has listed a Sega Nomad here. This has sparked my curiosity. Does anyone have any particular memories about this handheld? Might as well plug the posting (not mine) while I'm at it: http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/191168-for-sale-sega-nomad-system-16-games-power-controller-case/page__fromsearch__1
  15. DoctorSpuds

    Formula One (Domark)

    From the album: My Collection

  16. The jailbreak for SD card loading is supported with the cart adapters after all.
  17. The long-awaited cartridge converters for Game Gear and SMS cards on Analogue Mega Sg are here!
  18. Austin


    meh.. decided to trade most of it in locally, and hold on to some of the other items (3DO games). Whoever has already paid, your package will be shipped out tomorrow or the next day.
  19. Hi all, TL;DR; I have re-capped Game Gear did not boots into games and now has a glitched license screen at start and I would really like to know what is the problem. A few day ago I bought a faulty Game Gear hoping that I could fix it. There was battery leak in the left battery holder and the previous person did a terrible re-cap attempt (cold solder joints everywhere, some of the capacitors already fell off). It was a VA1 (Europe). Both pads of C55 were missing but everything else seemed to be in good shape on the motherboard. I connected the negative leg of C55 into R45 and the positive leg to the farthest leg of Q9. I also made a jumper wire from Q8 to the positive leg of C55. The rest of the re-cap was straightforward. Once I turned on the Game Gear with a game, it come up with a white screen and the contrast wheel was also working. I thought that my job (with the motherboard) was done but when I put in a game, it never passed the license screen ("Produced by or under license from Sega Enterprises LTD.") even after I cleaned the game with isopropyl alcohol and re-inserted it a bunch of times. (I have tested multiple games.) I have never seen this issue before. I have checked the board for corrosion thinking that the battery leak might has caused some problem but the only thing I found was something that looked like flux residue between the legs of IC3. (MB8464A-10L) I have cleaned it and resoldered each leg anyway. I have also checked for broken traces in this area but found none. My next idea was that there might be a cold solder joint for one of the legs of the cartridge connector. I have checked each leg and found nothing on the visual inspection. I have reflowed each leg just to be sure and this is where things went from bad to worse. The license screen was still showing up as before but now it is glitched. I have reflowed each leg again but nothing changed. Another wierd thing I noticed is sometimes when I turn the Game Gear on without any game in it, the license screen still appears but is much smaller. Like when you are playing Master System games though a Master Gear Converter on your Game Gear. I was a little desparate at this point and used sandpaper to "clean" the cartridge connector but it did not help. I also looked for bent pins inside the cartridge connector but as far I can see, all of them are alright. (I only have a cheap chinese USB microscope and looking into the cartridge connector is not an easy task so I would not bet my live on it) My final idea was that I might have screwed up the cartridge connector somehow (I feel stupid) so maybe I could just replace it with another one from one of the dead Game Gears I have. I only have VA0 (Europe) Game Gears for spares but the cartridge connector looked like it might fit however once I desoldered all of the legs I have realized that it is also fixed with rivets to the motherboard so removing it is not that easy. I kind of clueless about what I should do next. I really appreciate any help you can provide. UPDATE: This is exactly the same issue I was having before screwing with the cartridge connector: The Game Gear now shows a glitched license screen (or TMSS screen if you will) and starts in Master System mode even without any game inserted which is weird. I don't own a working Game Gear with TMSS but I am assuming that it should come up with a white screen when turned on without a game. I am wondering what could make it think that there is a game inserted that requires Master System mode. I have also checked all traces under IC3 in case what I have found was not flux residue but corrosion but none of them is broken.
  • Create New...