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Found 12 results

  1. There's been a new discovery and I'm here to explain how to get certain Atari 2600 and 7800 controllers to work on your Atari 5200 for a pretty reasonable price. The 2600 and 7800 controllers will only be working on 5200 games that have a single button involved in the gameplay, not two. Also, I need to point out that the games that require analog movement (ie. Breakout, Kaboom, Missile Command) can't be effectively played with the 2600 and 7800 controllers. First, you'll need the PC gameport to 5200 controller adapter (the one I have is made by fellow Atariage resident 5200 expert, bohoki, and it's a good design at a quite reasonable price). If you own one of these, you will want to get a PC joystick and/or gamepad with two buttons to go along with it (to play games which require two buttons like Defender). The schematics are available online if you choose to make one on your own. Secondly you need to buy an Atari 2600 to PC gameport controller adapter (schematic is available if you pm me). This adapter is currently made available on Ebay by ikonsgr74. Here is the current Ebay listing: http://m.ebay.com/itm/AMIGA-ATARI-AMSTRAD-COMMODORE-DB-9-PIN-JOYSTICK-ADAPTER-DB15-PIN-PC-GAME-PORT-/111807334682?nav=SEARCH The two adapters can be connected together allowing for a 2600 or 7800 controller to be put into use for games which have compatibility with digital controllers. This is going to essentially give you something kinda like a Masterplay Interface adapter, but with a couple downsides. 1) The original Atari-made 2600 joysticks, paddles, and trackballs that I've tried are incompatible. The heavy sixer CX-10 could work, though. I don't own one of those. Wico bat handle sticks are incompatible. I have 4 or 5 Atari-made/Wico-made joysticks and a single trakball and not one worked properly. 2) Even though you'd think it'd work with Genesis controllers, it's not compatible. I've been looking for a workaround but have come to the conclusion that the design of the 2600 to PC Gameport adapter is preventative for getting the power to the Genesis controller circuit that requires +5 volts (and that includes attempts to use an Edladdin Genesis to 7800 conversion cable). If you want to hear any details of my attempt to wire in an external power supply, pm me. 3) If you have a Pointmaster, Spectravideo 2 button, Quickshot 2 Deluxe, or Colecovision controller you were hoping to use, you'll be disappointed. The upsides are: 1) One controller that works and works well is the Slik Stick which is a favorite of mine. 2) it not only works with an Atari-made 7800 Proline controller, but a couple of my NES-to-7800 conversion controllers (converted NES Epyx 500xj and a converted rectangular NES controller). I figure it'll also work with the rectangular Atari-made European pad, too, but I don't have one to test out. You get single button compatibility out of all of them. 3) Sega Master System gamepads and Control Sticks work and work well for single button games. (But not the Sega Sportspad) 4) Wired controllers made for the Atari Flashback 2 system work and work well. 5) Sears Video Arcade II joysticks (not the paddle part), Gemsticks, Mindscape Power Player trigger-joysticks, Epyx 500xj, and Coleco Gemini joysticks (not the paddle part) all work great. Well, there you go. It's not exactly a Redemption adapter, but for less than $30 you can enjoy many 5200 games with a reasonably good number of controllers. I never got an opportunity to use a Masterplay Interface (or a Redemption adapter for that matter), but now I'm seeing the true value of what many have come to appreciate before me... and it didn't cost me an arm and a leg! If you're concerned about whether it's safe for your game system, I will say that nothing bad has happened to my 4 port system over the past couple months of hot swapping various controllers into the connected adapters with the 5200 on. If you haven't tried 2600/7800 compatible controllers on your 5200, you now have a great opportunity.
  2. Well, I've done some more experimenting and have managed to find a way to attach wired PS3 and Xbox 360 controllers to the 5200 to play the games that offer digital controls (as opposed to the analog-only games like Missile Command). This required a number of video game controller adapters/cables and a USB power supply. Here's how it's done: The adapters needed to get the wired PS3 controllers compatible with the Atari 5200 are as follows: 1) a 15 pin PC Gameport controller to 15 pin Atari 5200 adapter. These are obtained by contacting Atariage member, bohoki. He makes these for under $20 (shipped within the U.S.). 2) An adapter that converts Atari/Amiga/Sega controllers with a 9 pin connector to a 15 pin PC gameport. These are available on Ebay from "Ikonsgr74" and can be obtained for under $20 (shipped anywhere in the world). 3) A Tototek Joypad Convertor version MD (for Playstation controller compatibility on the Megadrive/Sega Genesis). These adapters are under $30. 4) A Brook Game Controller Super Convertor for adapting a PS3/PS4 controller to a PS2 console. These can be had for under $40. 5) a USB splitter cable ($12 or less). 6) a powersupply with a USB cord (5Volts) OR a USB Hub with connected power supply. To get the Xbox 360 controllers compatible with the 5200, you'll need one additional adapter. It is the Mayflash Universal Adapter for Xbox360/PS3/PS2/PC USB. These may be found at Amazon. Current price for these on Amazon is $30, but that is subject to change. Mayflash adapters tend to become scarce and go up in price. If any of you have interest in a video presentation on this (as well as a quick explanation of how to fix a potentiometer controller problem) here's the link for that:
  3. This is a 6 button 8 directional gamepad for the TI-99/4a natively. (No Adaptors needed) It's meant to be a D.I.Y. project. Total cost to me was Aprox. $19.00 US for 2 gamepads and 20 diodes. Controller Source - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EAM862S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Diode source - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T6Q3RE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't know who created the original schematic, I find it all over the web. But the original in the upper left of my picture below is of a 2 port atari adaptor for the TI-99/4a created by someone else. Same goes for the pin out diagram for the TI side including the 2 db9 pictures. Add to that other materials used (solder, wiring, glue) for pennies PLUS time and you have yourself 2 TI-99/4a Gamepads, one for each console. If I were asked to build one for someone, I'd ask for $20 $40 per joypad completely modded as shown. I had to up the price because it takes me a couple of hours to complete a mod on one Joypad including setup and breakdown times. I highly encourage you all to do this MOD yourself but if you really want me to do it for you, I have to ask for more money due to time. Looking at the attached picture will show you how I did this with the materials I had. I'll give some notes here: 1. Plan ahead with your own drawings that you understand. Your wire colors may differ depending on the controller you go with. Test them all and make your own chart for pin#, colour, board location.You'll want a controller that has all 9 wires to be certain. Sega Genesis controllers are like that as far as I know. 2. Test every wire and connection from the cable end to the connection ends as you go along. Check all solder points and pad connectivity as you go. One at a time. 3. It's easiest to do the Joy1 and Joy 2 connections first since they do not have diodes associated with them. 4. Be sure to isolate all traces. I used a dremel to obliterate the logic chip in to dust and cut all the lines. I isolated each solder point the gamepad already had and made sure joy1 and joy2 check lines were isolated from each other. review the photo and follow the traces. It should all make perfect sense. 5. I used Hot Glue to hold things in place and I applied it as I went along ensuring I isolated all possible shorts (using hot glue as an insulator). 6. I also drilled holes next to all the already connected wires on the board to allow me an easy path for my connections. You can see the unused holes in the picture for lines 1->7 and 6->5. 7. I was fortunate that the gamepad board had exposed round pads of bare solder. I suppose those were for Q/A testing. I drilled holes next to the ones I needed for new connections. I had to scratch the enamel off the common trace for J1 Signal sitting in the middle of the 4 directionals due to lack of circle solder pad. You can see the circle pads I soldered to, there are a few unused. Look at the ones near the middle buttons that went unused in the picture below.... 8. Be careful not to short any bare wires, be aware not to close holes that were there already (for encasement pins) and of course be aware of your drilled holes when applying hot glue if you choose to mimic my method. 9. I borrowed a program from another Topic thread to test. There was a typo in the original, find it and fix it. - Source = http://atariage.com/forums/topic/166557-proplay-new-4-button-gamepad-for-ti/?p=2058171 Already fixed and slightly customized code. Note: I think it's inefficient for game controller code but works for testing. My Test Results. 10. Use it as intended. - You can certainly use this gamepad as a single player Joy1 for any existing games you have. OR play two player games on one gamepad.(WHuh?Why? I know) However; the joy 2 buttons are just that, for Joy 2. So if you press them in conjunctions with Joy1 buttons in a game such as PARSEC (pressing up on both Joy1 and 2 at the same time) it will allegedly cause glitches or something undesirable (no damage just in game controller glitch). Don't blame the joypad. If you connect two TI joysticks and did the same thing, you'll probably get the same glitches. It doesn't make sense to use the controller in this way for existing games that aren't coded for this. 11. Further modifications were necessary. The bottom half of the controller housing has cylinders molded in to fit flush against the PCB. I needed to give 'em a little shave with the dremel to fit the wiring and hot glue. 12. Don't hold me responsible if you destroy the planet by attempting or using this modification. Or even if you break your console or something less destructive than destroying the entire planet. I knew the risks and now you do too, If you follow these instructions, any part of them, in real life you do so at your own peril. Just because it worked for me....doesn't mean it'll work for you in the sense that it could have been my fault. Last but not least. You will need games specifically coded to work with the full functionality of this controller. The game pad directionals and the X button are the Joystick 1 directionals and fire button. Y/B/A/C/Z buttons are for Joystick2 as follows in same order Up/Down/Left/Right/Fire. I attempted to make my connections standard. So anyone who wants to make their own 6 button gamepad for the TI to code for, please take in to account the button assignments. Together we can establish a new standard in TI gaming and ensure our programs work across the board with any controllers folks my make on their own utilizing this Topic Thread,. THE START BUTTON IS UNUSED AND DOES NOTHING. Of course, I rate this project as easy for an ametuer. But do ask and learn, I used a heat sink for every solder point to protect the diodes. I don't know it that's unnecessary, but I did it anyway. Thanks to everyone here for encouragement and help. Now it's time to start making games that can take advantage of this design and layout. Get creative. Street Fighter? Tanks game where you can move one way and rotate the turret another? Puzzle games where you have to control 2 characters to solve the puzzle ? (Castle of Dr. Creep anyone? - (C64 game) or The Goonies?) RPGs with spell, attack, defend, jump, dodge buttons? What would you like to play on your TI with a 6 button gamepad? Make it, Code it, Play it. Share it. Do it.
  4. There's now a way to make 80s and 90s PC joysticks, steering wheels, and gamepads compatible with the Atari 7800 one and two button games. For the one button games all you need is this adapter: https://ebay.us/ON1DA8 For the two button games three adapters are required: Adapter #1: Edladdin Seagull 78 Adapter #2: Sega Master System Rapid Fire Adapter Adapter #3: 15 pin PC controller to Atari/Amiga adapter made by Ebay seller Ikonsgr74 Also included in the presentation is a unique way to play Robotron 2084 with combined gamepads. Enjoy enhancing your 7800 games.
  5. I checked the Nintendo store and the OEM high capacity battery is sold out. They probably won't bother to make more. Prices have already spiked on ebay into the hundreds. Do we have the next Gamecube component cable here? Luckily there are a few 3rd party options on Amazon, one as high as 3600 Mha, but being 3rd party who knows what the durability is on those..
  6. I have figured out a way to use adapters and a powered USB hub to get Sega Master System and Genesis controllers compatible with the Colecovision 2 button games. In the presentation I use the controllers to play Rock 'N Rope, Space Fury, Cosmic Avenger, and HERO. The adapters and cables used are not hard to locate online, so this can be accomplished by anyone who'd want to get their favorite controllers fully compatible. Check it out, and subscribe to my channel for more controller fun:
  7. So several years ago my girlfriend (at the time, now wife, lol) knocked my Wii U gamepad off our coffee table where it flipped onto the floor landing firmly on the left joystick. From then on, instead of clicking in as it should (used in a number of games) it is squishy and doesn't do anything. Luckily the directional aspect still works. Several years ago I contacted Nintendo and they said it would be $80 to fix the damn thing, no matter what. Whether it was run over by a bulldozer or if it just had one small $5 dollar part needed (like I assume mine does.) Has anyone attempted to ever repair their gamepads for any issue. Any possibility of finding parts for this? Only a couple games really have a critical need for that left joystick click, but the more I think about it the more I realize I hang onto Nintendo consoles for decades so i'd really like it working for the years ahead and maybe should just suck it up and pay the "nintendo" tax before I can't get it repaired at all anymore... Thoughts?
  8. Just put up my new article on the transition from joysticks to gamepads and what caused people to prefer the gamepads. My viewpoint is that gamers were looking for improvement in their hand comfort and the NES gamepad felt better than holding a joystick. Agree? http://www.nerdko.com/2016/10/29/from-joystick-to-gamepad-the-untold-story-of-what-nintendo-did-for-video-game-controllers/
  9. OK, Here's my first try at adding images to a post, so hopefully it works. The first photo shows the "Prototype" coupler I built for playing Robotron using 2 2600 joysticks. It's made of layered plywood, 25x5x2 inches with 12 inches between the joysticks and weighs around 2 pounds. The joysticks are removable. They have 2x2 inch velcro squares under each of them and the joysticks fit securely in the holes even without the velcro. It has 2 holes in the front edge to allow the cords to come through along with a nylon carrying handle in the front and 4 non-slip feet on the bottom. I added a chrome strip between the two joysticks, just to break up the all black look and to better fit with the 7800 console. My score on Robotron tripled the first time I used this thing! The next photo shows a couple of custom controls I did for the 7800. The gamepad is a modded NES controller, with a small ball-top joystick added to the directional pad, and the start and select buttons removed. I also did a quick and dirty paint job, along with a new overlay and Atari logo, just as a test mostly. My masking tape failed around the logo, so the edges there look really bad. It was the first one I made before I started selling them, so I still like it. The 7800 proline in the photo has a shortened throw, by cutting down the joystick and the original knob and adding a rubber buffer to keep the joystick from being forced too far in any direction. I'll add more photos as I finish the other projects I have in the works.
  10. I've managed to have success getting adapters plugged in to the Colecovision for the purpose of getting Playstation controller compatibilty. Watch the experiment in action here: Here are the adapters you'll need: 1) 9 pin Sega Genesis extension cords (2) 2) Edladdin Seagull 78 controller adapter (converts Genesis controllers to be fully-compatible with the Atari 7800) 3) Tototek Joypad Converter version MD (converts Playstation controllers to be compatible with the Sega Genesis console) 4) PS1 Multitap 5) Speedlink Redeemer Beyond Total Control Playstation 2 mouse/keyboard adapter 6) powered USB hub with power supply The method: 1) Plug in a Colecovision controller into port 2 of your Colecovision (consider connecting a 9 pin extension cable to it in case you want to sit a little ways away from the console.) 2) Plug a 9 pin extension cable into port 1 of your Colecovision, but don't plug any adapter into it yet. (wait) 3) Connect all the above adapters/PS1 Multitap together but leave the Seagull78 adapter unconnected to the 9 pin extension cable that's plugged into port one of the console. 4) Plug your Playstation controller into port A of the multitap 5) Plug the Speedlink Redeemer into port B of the multitap 6) Connect a powered USB hub (with power supply plugged into the wall) to the lower USB connector of the Speedlink. 7) Turn on your Colecovision and use the keypad of the port 2 Colecovision controller to make your game selection and start up the game. 8 ) Now plug in the adapters to the extension cable that's plugged into port 1 of your Colecovision and play your game with the connected Playstation controller. This method works for many, but not all Colecovision games. The ones that are incompatible with this method are the ones which don't allow a keypad controller that's plugged into port 2 of the console to start up the game, but only a keypad that's plugged into port 1 of the console. If you want to know how to get around that with a 9 pin splitter cable method, take a look at the video presentation. The nice thing about using Playstation controllers is that both buttons- not just one button- will work in the games that have the 2 button access. Another really nice aspect is that you can use a flightstick to play games like Zaxxon and River Raid. Also, it's nice to be able to use an arcade stick to play games like Q-bert or Ladybug.
  11. hi, i would like to know if anybody tried usb gamepads together with atari emulators. I want to connect 2 gamepads, one is old sidewinder dual strike and second is dualshock. I tried this on atari800win, because it supports multijoy4. is such option present also in altirra? (couldnt find multijoy there) anyway, problem is that those gamepads have 8+ buttons and only one works as joystick fire. others has F5,F6,F7 functions, which is pretty annoying, because you can easily push them during game by accident.(function keys are used in emulator, so it changes speed, pauses emulation, sets autofirem etc.) do you know some SW which can remap buttons, i.e. set all buttons to behave like button1? also stupid dualstrike gamepad has very annoying way of using axes... it has kind of joint (no joystick) and these axis are mapped as joystick controls... it would be better to map DPAD there. help appreciated Martin
  12. Hello all! Recently picked up a PC Engine and a copy of the excellent Street Fighter II Champion Edition for the system. Great, great game, except that the PCE gamepad's paltry 2 buttons makes playing the game with some characters really kludgy (but about on par with playing the Genesis version on a 3-button pad). I know of at least one gamepad for the system which has 6-buttons and works with SF2:CE, that being the Avenue Pad 6. So if anyone has an extra one of those they'd like to sell for a reasonable price (say, $30 shipped), I'd love to take it off your hands. I've seen a few listed on eBay from Japan for around $45 shipped and up, but I just can't bring myself to pay that much for a game that I'll really only use for one game that gets played at most a few times a year. Thanks guys! - [email protected]
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