Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'jr.'.
Found 4 results
Hi everyone. I've been working on this broken 2600 Junior for the last week and since my huge amounts of research usually lead to this forum, you guys seem like the perfect bunch to ask since I'm now stuck. A bit of backstory: I believe this Jr. encountered some tough times as the RF shield is very rusty. It turned on, but only tuned to a black screen. So on opening it up, the board was a bit messy but it did clean up quite well using isopropyl and white vinegar. I also reflowed a bunch of solder joints that were looking a bit dull, but this didn't change anything. Just to clarify, the equipment I'm using to test this Atari (RF cable, game, power adaptor etc) have been confirmed with another working 2600 Jr I own. So, this rules out anything external - the problem lays somewhere in the Atari itself. Onwards with the research, I learnt that the power regulator is prone to failure. Reading the pins, 9.03v was measured on one although the other measured at 4.93v - pretty low. So, I replaced that and it now read 4.98v and 9.06v - much better! The 2600 still wasn't working, however, now showing a colourful garbled mess of static instead of a black screen. I then checked a few voltages over the board. 4.98v was tested going to the cartridge slot, the TIA, the RIOT 6532 and the CPU 6507. I also confirmed continuity to those chips by measuring between their Vss's and the ground pin of the vreg. This tells me the chips are powering on (I'm assuming 4.98v is adequate) but I do not own an oscilloscope to test that they're behaving as they should. For what it's worth, neither get too warm while the console is operating. Hoping that it's not any of the chips that are the problem, I scoured the board for anything that seemed out of place. Two components stood out to me; C38 and R43. The legs on both were corroded and the pads below were a bit of a mess. I have no means of testing the cap, but the resistor (when removed) measured about 8.8K oms, while according to the schematic it's supposed to be 9.1K. That was replaced easily enough, while the cap was replaced with a 0.1uF ceramic disk type - a recommendation I found in this thread: Here are some photos of the replacements soldered in. They soldered in fine from the bottom of the board, but do you think the pads on the top are too corroded? I couldn't get any solder to stick. I'm not sure if they connect to traces on the top or not and if a connection is being severed. If it helps, here are a few more photos I took of the board overall. Thanks for reading. I look forward to your answers!
Hey I was watching Ben Hecks portable single chip Atari video. He showed a brief image of the bottom vents with a couple sentences on how to spot it. I got curious and started looking at my Jr. It kinda looks like his image... Im not sure it wasn't great instructions. I was going to open it but its never been opened before and I don't want to pierce the serial number label. Anyone got a sure way to spot one without opening it. Perhaps certain serial numbers, or physical differences in the casing or labels. Let me know if any of you have knowledge of this.
OK, I didn't know if I should post this here or in Hardware, so I just put it here. I just got a 2600 Jr. today and it has a few issues. When you first turn it on, with any game or the Harmony cart, it takes probably 10 seconds before the picture shows up on the TV. When you put a Battlezone cart in and turn it on, it takes a few seconds, then you get the radar and some other random bits of the picture kind of jumping around the screen, then it will show up correctly, but with a very dim picture. In a couple of seconds, the picture brightens up and the colors are all good. If Demons to Diamonds is inserted, same wait time on start-up, but the color and brightness are good. Now, here's the big problem. When you hit reset to start Demons to Diamonds, it goes from color to Black and White. Unplugging the rca cable from the back of the console and then slowly putting it back, will allow you to see a split second of color before it goes B&W again. The same thing happens using the Demons and Diamonds .bin on the Harmony Encore. Also, With the Harmony, if you switch it off, while it's B&W and then switch it right back on, the Harmony menu is in B&W. Switching it off and on again, results in color. The Jr. isn't modded and an inspection of the board showed no bad solder joints or leaky caps. The Serial is A1781245617 The board is CO21503 Revision C On most games, it looks great, the colors and the picture are better than my AV modded Vader and 7800, other than the lack of a picture for a few seconds when you turn it on. Demons to Diamonds is the only game I've found so far that triggers the B&W issue, but I feel like that's a sign of something needing repair. So, does anyone have an answer as to what's wrong with it?