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https://www.ebay.com/itm/404287200688 Magnavox Odyssey Game System w/ Accessories - Complete With Rare Overlays. Red white and blue chips missing. has original box and Styrofoam, box is damaged. 6 pack of games are still in original shipping box from the factory. Games. *NEW* Interplanetary voyage, accessories sealed, unused *NEW* Brain Wave, accessories sealed, tokens still connected, unused *NEW* Wipeout, Accessories sealed, unused. *Volleyball all parts *Basketball all parts *W.I.N all parts
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I picked up an Odyssey and all 10 additional games. I'm starting to research the homebrews and see what is out there. If anyone has any information on any of these homebrews, I'd appreciate if anyone could link me to reviews, screenshots, auctions, etc. If you own any of these games and want to just say how fun it is, I'd appreciate knowing that as well. I'd also like to know if I'm wrong about the status on any of these or if there are more that I don't know about. Released Homebrews: Odball by Revrob Mentis Cohorts by Revrob (I know there's been a dispute about people not getting this one. Did anyone actually get a copy?) Red vs Blue by Revrob Dodgeball by Atariland2600 Odyssey Evil by ManCaveArcade Captain Bruce by Atariland2600 Tannhauser Gate by zhorton Fukushima by zhorton Super Cat and Mouse: Cheesy Castle by zhorton Hunting Adventure by ManCaveArcade Soccer (reproduction) by zhorton Team Volleyball by zhorton Danceoff by zhorton Peacekeeper Command-o by Revrob Spacewar by Mikebloke Odysim Exclusives: Santa's Gift Hunt Spot Hunter Jack-O-Lantern Odyssey Midway's Haunted House Frogger Pac-Man: Eat & Run Space Invaders Unreleased Homebrews: Yar's Revenge by Atariland2600 (Announced 2011) Stomach's Revenge by Atariland2600 (Announced 2011) six² by Atariland2600 (Announced 2019) Trumpocalypse by zhorton (Announced 2019) First Fantasy: Tales of Odyssey by Mikebloke (Announced 2019) The Semi-Impenetrable Fortress of Doom by Atariland2600 (Announced 2019) Zombie Outbreak by ManCaveArcade (Announced 2020) Donkey Kong for Odysim (Announced 2020) Gosub for Odysim (Announced 2020) Squares of Tron for Odysim (Announced 2020) Burgertime for Odysim (Announced 2020) Carnival for Odysim (Announced 2020) Asteroids for Odysim (Announced 2020) Presumed Abandoned: Lava Monster by TheMichaelLant (Announced in 2014. Confirmed Pending in 2015. TheMichaelLant could not be reached for comment in 2019.) Hadeaus War (or War of Semmis) by djfurreh (Announced in 2015. Confirmed Pending in 2017. Currently trying to reach djfurreh for comment.) Hide and Seek by djfurreh (Announced in 2016) Dragonhunt by djfurreh (Announced in 2016) I'm really interested in learning everything that there is to know about the Odyssey and I appreciate anyone giving me anything that can help.
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I wish I could do something more dramatic for this historical event, but this September marks the 50 year anniversary of the home video game console. Like a lot of these things, there is no real set date, in May of 1972 there were a few demo units used to promote the upcoming Magnavox Odyssey and it appears the serial first production run began in August, with a September release. Its very likely that across the US release dates were local and when supply arrived at stores. Magnavox originally pushed exclusive access in their own stores with a number of complications as inidividual stores tried to claim it specifically required magnavox televisions to work, but the system still made its mark. With an extra set of games and the shooting gallery sold separately the same year, and a second extra bundle of games sold in 1973, it pails in comparison to later system offerings, but outside of the dedicated pong systems that followed its production continued into 1975 pretty much exclusively until 'console in a cartridge' systems like the Coleco Telstar arcade, pc-50x line and the Philips telepiel line arrived to little fanfare. 1976 Fairchild beat RCA to the punch of the first ROM based cartridge console system. RCA was one of the companies originally approached for the Odyssey but rejected it and went ahead with their own system. Fairchild itself had pinched a number of experts in the field and some later moved on to found or join companies like Intel. In 1977 the atari 2600 was of course launched and undeniably changed the face of gaming, now considered on par if not surpassing other media industries. Nolan of course was sued by Baer for Pongs resemblance of the odyssey, starting a number of trials that shaped the landscape of copyright of the industry. Magnavox was just the company with the cash to get the odyssey produced though, and it was Baer that was the mastermind of the home video game console on consumer televisions. Magnavox would be bought out by Philips around the time of the development of the Magnavox Odyssey 2 / Philips Videopac G7000 which had superficial similarities in style to the original console. A failed deal between Nintendo and Philips led to the CD-interactive with some Nintendo licenced characters. Common for the time, electronic companies tried to bridge the gap between a gaming device and other functions but like Panasonic and Commodore the CD-i failed to make a huge dent into the market. Sony broke that mold when it broke into the market and famously unseated long time Nintendo rival Sega. The PlayStation 2 stepped up once again with its inclusion of a DVD player that played commercial film releases, and while many consoles before it had CD support, its simplicity and the emerging market for DVD videos replacing VHS finally broke video game consoles into the true complete home entertainment market. Sony tried to do the same next generation with its proprietary blu ray medium at great financial cost, but the generation alongside the Xbox 360 made Internet connection and immersion with live and recorded TV programming standard which continues to this day with Sony and Microsofts ongoing rivalry. But while those two fight amongst themselves, Nintendo finally succeeded in merging handheld devices and home gaming with the release of the Nintendo Switch, gaming has been handheld nearly as long as the Odyssey, but the merging of both systems at an acceptable consumer level had finally arrived. Its difficult to tell what the next 50 years hold for home gaming, but often failed concepts such as Internet connection and downloads, handheld gaming, merging of functions with other consumer products and wireless controllers found their way into the mainstream gradually. Virtual reality has been tipped as the next best thing for decades and has been a viable idea since at least the Atari Jaguar for those lucky enough to have tried it, but has still yet to fully break out and is often a niche interest. The television still has its place... But for how long!
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Have a multicard for the Magnavox Odyssey from @Boojakascha and @Mikebloke and got a handle for it from Laserbear. Took measurements and with the new handle, it's about 11cm x 9cm, and about 1.5 cm thick. I'm looking for a hard case or possibly a shock box to store it, ideally with a little bit of extra space, so I can line the case with antistatic plastic to protect the PCB Does anyone have any ideas on what the most similar cartridge would be in terms of size? (NES, SNES, Megadrive...?) Or if repurposing one of those wouldn't work, does anyone make custom cases that would fit it? Thanks!
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Morning all, I’m very close to getting my original Magnavox Odyssey console back to life – I’ve Frankenstein’d together a working power solution from an Atari 2600 after-market power adapter, with a travel adapter and a 3.5mm-to-2.5mm tip adapter. I also got a multicard from @Boojakascha and @Mikebloke (thanks guys ), and got a handle for it from Laserbear The only remaining problem is the video cable. I mentioned previously in this post that original Odyssey RF cables are rarely listed for standalone eBay sales, and looking for other Odyssey pong consoles (100, 200 etc) with Magnavox’s weird proprietary RF connector hasn’t brought me any luck either. So I think the most practical solution would be to solder a new video cable to the back of the console’s main board, and that this cable will probably need to be at least 7 feet long. Question 1 (RF or composite?): In this video (around the 54min20sec mark) That Tim Guy from YouTube, soldered video and ground directly to the console's motherboard but it's not clear (to me anyway) exactly what cable he's using - in the most recent comment at the top of his comments section, he refers to the cable as carrying a composite video signal. And I guess in theory it's possible that the console could maybe generate composite video on the board, and the original external RF box turned it back to RF? But I'm a little bit confused by this as 1) I had always assumed a stock 1972 Odyssey only outputted RF, 2) I thought you could need something like @Boojakascha's mod board to output composite, and 3) later in the video, he appears to de-modulate the signal through a VCR to get to the CRT, which seems to suggest that the console itself is outputting RF. It's not going to make a huge difference to my setup - the Odyssey doesn't output sound, so either way, I'm going to be running a single cable with either an RCA or a coax connector. I have a well-shielded 7 foot RF video coaxial cable from Blue Jeans Cables (Belden 1505A) that I'm not using at the moment - does anyone know if this would be a good cable to use? If so, I could remove one of the connectors, and solder it to the two points on the board, as per the video. Question 2 (Safety) The video from That Tim Guy is quite long, but the relevant part where he displays the cable solution is only from 52m50s to 54m40s I don't know very much about soldering, and this would be the first mod I've tried myself, but I'm a little bit apprehensive because it seems like this should be more complicated than what's presented in the video (which shows that it's as simple as soldering two wires). It seems to me that there should usually be a little more to it than this. If he is pulling the video signal in this way and the youtube video isn't skipping over anything, does anyone have any opinion on whether wiring it directly in this way is creating a circuit that is safe, and not going to damage the console?
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Have spent a long time waiting for an original Magnavox Odyssey video cable to come up for sale, or looking for other Magnavox consoles with the same weird proprietary AV connector with no luck. So I think the most practical solution is probably to solder an RF cable to the back of the board (seems like there's only two points to be soldered - ground plane and video signal) and connect it up to a composite demodulator/VCR. Wouldn't have been my first choice as I'd like to keep the console in stock condition, but I'm sure it'll be fine. Does anyone happen to know what the length of the original video cable was? Just want to make sure I leave enough slack when it goes into my setup, as the controller cables are quite short. Many thanks @Boojakascha @Mikebloke @Odysseus
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I've been using John Dondzilla's marvelous 233-in-1-multicartridge for the Odyssey 2 for years. A great cartridge, for which I probably would have had sold my mother, back in the day . Game selection is done with the help of ten dip-switches (address) and another four dip switches defining game rom size (2/4/8kBytes). The manual contains a look-up table where one can read the required settings for each of the games. That's what the opened cartridge looks like: I wanted to facilitate the game selecting procedure. I chose the "retro-approach", building it, like something (only a toy) that would have been built 30 years ago: simple and cheap. The cartridge itself is too small to built something into it. An external device must be used. If all dip-switches are set into the off-position, more comfortabel parallel switches can be used for game selection. I put a 15-pin dsub-connector into the back part of the shell, near the handle in a way, that is does not immerse into Odyssey's cartridge shaft. And I connected short cables, taping the dip switches. Not all of the switches are needed. Selector-dip-switch#10 switches on and off "The Voice". Romsize-dip-switch#3 always is "on". The nine remaining selector-switches can be "replaced" (parallelized) by 3 BCD-coded switches, one digit representing three dip switches. There are only three valid combinations for rom-size-switches: 2k - on on on on 4k - on off on off 8k - off on on off This can be replaced by a cheap 3x4 rotary switch (4 poles, 3 positions), connected like: romsize-dip-switch#1 -> rotary switch pole#1 (pos1:on pos2:on pos3:off) romsize-dip-switch#2 -> rotary switch pole#2 (pos1:on pos2:off pos3:on) romsize-dip-switch#4 -> rotary switch pole#3 (pos1:on pos2:off pos3:off) Got the idea? Simple and working . I built the 3 BCD-coded switches, the rotary switch and a LED into a separate housing, attached a cable and a dsub connector and ended up with this: If you want to build something like this you can get uncountable types of switches, that can be used. Some BCD-coded switches really are expensive, so take what you can get cheaply and figure out the cabling for your switches. It's not hard to do. Finally I made a new look-up table for all games. Selecting games now is easy! Want to play KC? Put rotary knob to position 2 (4k) and enter code number 374. Freedom Fighters+? Rotary knob to positon 3 (8k) and code number 136. I hope, you found this one entertaining. I know there is a new mulit-cartridge with a screen selection menu. That's very cool. But I happen to have the "old" one.
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Hello I am looking to buy a copy of Percepts more than anything but I am also looking to complete my collection of magnavox odyssey 1 and 2 games. I’d even consider buying a complete collection. If you have any games at all that I don’t please let me know. All i have currently for the odysseys 1 is a complete American system with everything it came with. I need the international system with everything it had and all the single games that were sold. I also need any of the rare games for odyssey 2 but have about 25% of the second consoles games. I’m also interested in the systems and games and systems from radofin and any other of the very early systems predating Atari. Thanks for any help!
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Morning all, poster from Ireland here, TLDR version: I am utterly clueless when it comes to AV hook-ups for the original Odyssey (and also when it comes power networking more generally). Would really appreciate if someone could review my Youtube/Wikipedia research, so I don't destroy a vintage console. The Console: I have an original Magnavox Odyssey (1972) that I picked up from another guy living in Ireland. I don't know much about Magnavox's distribution history (was the idea of PAL consoles even a thing back in 1972? ) but I'm assuming it's a standard NTSC unit that was imported, as there's a sticker on the bottom saying 120V/60Hz. The guy I bought it from just had it out on display, so there's no game power cord or antenna game switch with it, and I'm just trying to figure out what my best options are to power it on (without wearing out the battery compartment), and connecting it to a CRT. Power (Problem): In Ireland, we run the UK-style "Type G" electrical sockets, that output a standard supply of 230 volts AC (frequency 50Hz). I do have a step-down transformer but would prefer not to use it if possible, as it heats up very quickly. So I guess what I'm looking for is a) a modern power supply that can accept an input range of 100-240V, 50/60 HZ), b) that's well suited to the MA1 console, and c) that has those Irish/UK style pins. Like I said, I don't have one of the original power supplies that Magnavox manufactured for the Odyssey (I have been waiting for a few months for one to pop up on eBay with no joy...), but in an earlier thread linked below, @Clong80 notes that the specs on the original power supply are: INPUT 117 VAC 50/60HZ OUTPUT 9 volts 400ma 3.5mm mono headphone jack Tip positive for polarity Power (Solution?) So after a bit of online browsing, I found this website that sells modern power supply adapters for the Atari 2600. The specs on this unit are: 9V DC 1A Tip: 3.5mm jack (Centre tip positive) https://www.retrosales.com.au/collections/atari-power/products/accessory-power-supply-atari-2600-power-supply-adaptor-pack-9v So that will supply more current than the console needs; I know these numbers don't need to match exactly, but is the difference (9V, 1A vs 9V, 400ma) reasonable enough? I'd also need a standard travel adapter to convert the Australian plug to UK pin-style. Found this unit on Amazon ("This Adapter does not convert Voltage. Please make sure your device supports 220-240 Voltage.") Per Jakob Schuler on YouTube, it looks like the Magnavox Odyssey needs a 2.5mm tip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzXlJSa_VP4&t=6m22s), so I found this 3.5mm-to-2.5mm adapter on Amazon AV Hookup: I don't have one of the original antenna game switches with the hanging hooks, but my CRT doesn't accept NTSC RF anyway, so I don't think that would be the best option for me. However, it will accept NTSC through the composite ports. And I have an NTSC RF-to-composite conversion box, which works great either on its own or with composite switches. I've had no luck finding an original MA1 video cable like this one https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_06_2016/post-32949-0-81329000-1466475134.jpg On the TV end, the little RF adapters are obviously no problem to get from Amazon, but I understand that the other end which connects to the console is proprietary? (I'm not 100% sure about this). End of an entirely-too-long post Would be super grateful if anyone could advise me on 1) whether I've made any huge screw-ups in my choice of power accessories, and 2) how to find a video cable that will connect to the console Many thanks if you stuck through to the end of this post
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Hope this post is okay. I recently won a Goodwill auction that included 2 pre production/prototype Odyssey 2 Games. I have seen the Killer Bees Label before, but have not seen any pre production cart for Nimble Numbers Ned. Using an Atarimax USB dumper, I have included the games below as I need help from others to see if there are any differences than the released games. Enjoy! Killer Bees 11.12.82.bin Nimble Numbers Ned Show Sample May 82.bin
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Hello Sadly I noticed that the Magnavox Odyssey games have risen in price. Personally I want to preserve light gun gaming as much as possible. Therefore I started to do a multi card which can be used as cards 9 & 10. Then I realized that this was a waste of silicon an time and that I should better make a 12 in 1 mutli card. Myself I just own 3, 9 & 10 so I was very into the idea once I had it. Here is a picture of the final card: I put all the PCB files onto my website, so everybody can print one for personal usage. I uploaded the files as GERBER and as .brd files (I prefer the latter...). I wish you all happy gaming! Here is a short video of proof, which shows that the little thing actually works: www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFJGMqS9hTI&t=4m27s
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Building „The Voice“ into a PHILIPS G7400/Magnavox Odyssey and staying fully compatible There I was with my PHILIPS G7400 console and a newly acquired „The Voice“ speech-add-on, which was only made for the PHILIPS G7000, not the G7400, and therefore does not fit onto the G7400 housing at all. And which uses an inbuilt speaker, which makes it sounding odd - speech and sound comeing out of two different sources. Wouldn’t it be nice to put „The Voice’s“ circuitry into the G7400? Problems: Electronically - not all extensions and cartridges are compatible with „The Voice“. It must be possible to switch it off and „remove“ it electronically. Mechanical - how to fit all those components into the G7400 housing and attach them firmly. "The Voice" interrupts a few lines of the regular cartridge interface, to control the speech synthesizer's actions and to provide a memory interface for external cartridge speech roms. So far, this has only been used for „SID, the Spellbinder“, but who knows, maybe some future homebrew project will need this too. The memory interface uses lines, that are not used by most of the game cartridges, except i. e. C7010 CHESS and C7420 BASIC. These plugins do not expect „The Voice“ to be sitting on the lines to the G7400 console. Therefore, to stay compatible, it is necessary to reconnect the interrupted lines. „SID, the spellbinder“-PCB. Cartridge with programme rom and the GI speech rom: Looking at PCB and schematics, I identified six affected lines: Leading from G7400 to „The Voice“: A(!CartWriteEnsble) —> to reset logic IC1 pin 2 B(PlusModeSelect) —> ground E(ChipSelect) —> not connected 1(T0) —> to SP256 synthesizer chip !LRQ 10(A10) —> not connected 11(!ChipSelect P14) —> to reset logic IC1 pin 1 Leading from „The Voice“ to cartridge port: A(!CartWriteEnsble) —> memory interface: C2 B(PlusModeSelect) —> memory interface: serial in E(ChipSelect) —> memory interface: C3 1(T0) —> memory interface: C1 10(A10) —> memory interface: serial out 11(!ChipSelect P14) —> memory interface: rom clock All the other lines are just fed through. I decided to use some simple changeover contact relais, which are operated by a mechanical switch turning on and off 12 VDC for the coils. Mechanically there surely are many possibilities. I decided to shorten the cartridge duct, to gain space inside the housing and to put my switch-device between G7400-PCB and cartridge connector. Be warned: It is a lot of work and I had to abuse the PCBs quite badly. This might not be an adequate job, if you are doing something like this for the first time. Some practice is helpful. There is a chance to destroy your console . I wanted the switching-device to consist only of one board and I wanted the whole thing to be plugable, which makes repairs or future changes easier. I’ll present some pictures, just to give you an impression. I have more. If somebody should have more interest and want to do the same, I can provide more pictures and information. Feel free to PM me anytime. „The Voice“ as we know it: The G7400 ripped apart during a test run: The switch device with the new cartridge connector board: Changes on the duct: New cartrige connector attached: Fom the other side: The G7400 PCB with removed cartridge connector and new connector cables leading to the switch device: The speech synthesizers audio line soldered onto G7400-PCB: „The Voice“. Desoldered cartridge connector and "The Voice" rom board, now connected via cables to gain some space below the cartridge duct: The Sandwich: connector board, switch device, speech synthesizer and G7400-PCB. Look, how the synthesizer board is attached to the upper housing. It is just pinched between cartridge duct and the middle plastic distance holder. PCB and holder can be adapted a bit with a file: Everything back into the housing: That’s what it looks like now. The cartridges are sitting a few centimeters higher, now. With voice on/off switch and a volume knop for speech output. Nice, compact — and working:) Special thanks all the guys at http://www.videopac.nl and its forum, who are providing excellent information on all aspects of the Videopac/Odyssey related systems. A MUST-website for all friends of the platform! And of course to all the guys on all the other VIDEOPAC related websites, where people posted schematics, service manuals or their own papers, with explanations, how the G7000 works. Best regards!
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I have a working rifle with everything it needs to play all the games, I have extra overlays from the main games and extra rifle overlays, and then I have three of the extra gAmes from 72, invasion, baseball, and handball, I also have a flattened empty wipeout box. If you’re interested in any of them comment below and I’ll tell you what price I’m thinking!
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I’ve had my odyssey for a while now and it’s worked perfectly since purchase, I’ve been using it on a ‘94 or so CRT and just recently bought a Curtis Mathis ‘81 to better fit the era (believe me i looked for a 70s... impossible) but now that it’s hooks to this older tv, it’s grainier (not the main issue) but now the wall won’t show! I’ve heard this being an issue before but it was never one for me so I never knew how to fix it. Also there are so many dials on this tv that I have no clue what they do I’ll attack some images if anyone could help me out
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WHAT IS ZOMBIE OUTBREAK and what makes it special? Zombie Outbreak is my 3rd homebrew game for the original 1972 Magnavox Odyssey system, the world’s first video game console. This is the SECOND homebrew game for the 1972 Odyssey that uses the Rifle Accessory (My Hunting Adventure was the first). This game will also feature a NEVER BEFORE RELEASED CUSTOM GAME CARD that makes this game possible. The FIRST custom game card for the Rifle accessory! This is also a SINGLE PLAYER game which is rare for this system however there is a multiplayer game option. GAME DESCRIPTION: STORY: Deep in an underground lab at an undisclosed location, a virus was created while doing research on a biological warfare program. Routine experiments were performed on live human captives. Their bodies piled up outside as they perished from the virus. They thought that the virus would die along with the dead but something else happened. The virus started to mutate and survive inside their flesh. The Zombie Virus was created! The bodies became re-animated and attacked the lab workers, feeding on their flesh. The virus spread through their bites which started the “Zombie Outbreak” that soon spread over the world. A small group of survivors decided to fight back and formed the Z.D.F. - Zombie Destruction Force. This group is dedicated to the cause of eliminating the Zombie population. Your best chance at survival is to join this team. You must prove yourself worthy by passing a series of tests and missions. GAME PLAY: I don’t want to give too much away about these Top Secret Missions that you will find inside each Secret Mission file folders included in the package but I will say that the game starts out in a “Training Phase” where zombie heads are launched DIAGONALLY across the screen after being fired out of a modified war cannon. You must be able to shoot 5 in a row with only one round per head in order to move on to your next mission. This is like Skeet Shooting in the Apocalypse. There is 3 different game overlays and 4 different missions each with a unique style of game play so that it does not get repetitive. To WIN at this game in a single player game mode you must complete each challenge back to back. If you fail one mission you DIE and must start from the beginning. This adds a nice challenge to the game and it’s really fun to try and make it all the way through. CUSTOM GAME CARD DESCRIPTION: This custom game card I designed has multiple advantages and will be used in different ways throughout this game. This brings a new level of excitement and challenge to the Rifle that was not possible before such as the DIAGONAL flying target used in the Zombie Head Cannon. Another NEW feature with this game card is the ability to launch the target with only the push of 1 button which makes setting up each game mission a lot easier than ever before. Game card 9 required a second person to move the target and game card 10 was a pain to get the target set up with both player controllers and both English controllers. All you have to do with this card is set ONE target with ONE controller in a certain position as described in each mission file and press a button, that’s it! This feature makes it possible for a single player to be able to launch his own target without the need for a second player. Another NEW feature with this game card is that it had different effects with different reset buttons and different set up procedures. This really adds another level of unique game play to the Rifle that was not possible before adding new challenges. GAME CONTENTS: 1. A FULL SIZE professional hand built Limited Collector’s Edition box numbered 1-25 of 25 (You can reserve your number if available, AA members that bought my H.A. will have first opportunity to get a matching number) See picture for size comparison to original game box. 2. A matching certificate of authentication. 3. NEW designed Custom game card. This is a unique game card that has NOT been released before! It is required to play and this game would not have been possible without it. This game card will look totally different than the original Magnavox cards. Picture coming soon. 4. (3) Large size game overlays. These overlays are larger than the original “small” overlays but slightly smaller than the original “large” size overlays. They look and work great! 5. A standard size and formatted instruction sheet 6. 4 TOP SECRET mission file folders. Each one of these when open up, contain a description of the mission and game play instructions. 7. Zombie Outbreak First Aid Kit 8. Plastic box protector case to keep your game safe during shipping, storage and looks great for your display. Thanks, Stupus for the tip! I decided to buy a bunch of these and include them as part of the game release to help protect them during shipping. I worked so hard to make these I want them to reach you safe and sound. What is NOT included in this game that is needed to play? · Original 1972 Magnavox Odyssey system · Electronic Rifle (Unless it is the Deluxe kit) How much does it cost? This game will be slightly more expensive then the last release due to the following additional costs: Custom game card, Clear box protector included, purchased key board boxes for shipping (It was too much work making custom shipping boxes so I purchased keyboard shipping boxes that are slightly larger) $85 Plus shipping OFFICIAL RESERVATION LIST: * LIST KEY: [(P) = PAID] [(S) = SHIPPED] [(D+R)= DELUXE PACKAGE + RIFLE] [(D-R)= DELUXE PACKAGE - RIFLE] [(NUMBER BY NAME) = L.C.E. NUMBER ON THE MAIN GAME BOX] 0. ManCaveArcade Ianoid (P) (S) RESERVED (P) (S) STUPUS (D-R) (P) (S) Captain J (P) (S) Dastari Creel (P) (S) EEbuckeye (p) (s) STILL AVAILABLE TPR (P) (S) zodiacprime (D-R) (P) (S) Retrogmr (P) (S) PsychedelicShaman (D-R) (P) (S) Blazing lazers (D+R) (P) (S) Captain Combat (P) (S) ZHorton (P) (S) Atari2008 (D+R) (P) (S) STILL AVAILABLE SOLD (P) (S) BuckeyeFan_4eva (D-R) (P) (S) WalkingCarp (D-R) (P) (S) SOLD thejers (P) (S) SOLD SOLD STILL AVAILABLE SLYDC (P) (S) DELUXE SETS ARE ALL SOLD OUT AS OF 5/8/2020 DELUXE SETS + RIFLE $250 + shipping BOTH RESERVED: This includes the entire game kit above + Rifle + Additional overlay + Bonus material + Large Custom box that will hold all of these items. (D+R) Beside your name. DELUXE SETS - RIFLE ($TBD) + shipping: This includes the entire game kit + Additional overlay + Bonus material + Large Custom box that will hold all of these items. (D-R) Beside your name. I WILL NOT ACCEPT ANY MONEY UNTIL ALL OF THESE GAMES ARE BUILT AND READY TO SHIP! The first prototype game is mostly complete and the rest are still in the production process. I am doing this pre-order based on your integrity to pay in full at the time of project completion which is estimated sometime in MAY or JUNE at the latest. So to reserve your copy, you must make a post here AND send me a PM with your FIRST AND LAST NAME, FULL SHIPPING ADDRESS (This is required to determine shipping, identify you when you make a Paypal payment and for actual shipping), and I will add you to the list. Please do not get on the list if you are not 100% certain that you want one and are willing to pay. I am only making 25 copies of this game because it is such a time consuming (and expensive) project so I don’t want to turn away any serious members who want one and then end up with extras due to non-payment. Be assured that this is a ManCaveArcade quality project and I WILL DELIVER IN A TIMELY MANNER. If there is any delay at all for any reason, you will receive weekly updates. My last games got great reviews so feel free to check out my old pre-order threads for feedback. MORE PICTURES COMING SOON!
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I've got an Odyssey 3000 and I'm tired of using the damn 6C batteries it takes. It has a 9V plug in the back that looks like it fits a 2600 plug but its smaller. Is there a power supply out there that works? It runs on 700mW
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I'm setting up my Magnavox Odyssey (the original from 1972), and I have a few questions about TV's, given the overlays that are required for the Odyssey games. I have a 40" LED Vizio and the Odyssey works on it and gives a pretty decent image, however given the size of the screen the the bezel is too far for me to safely tape the overlays onto it. The other option for getting the overlays to stay on the TV during game play would be to tape it onto the TV screen itself, would there be any potential harm to the TV in doing that? Or is there some type of tape or adhesive which would be safe for using on the TV screen itself? Another thought I had is that I could get a smaller cheap flat screen TV, I used to have a 26 inch in which the overlays fit very nicely actually, I could possibly get a new TV in the 20-something inch range that would be just for the Odyssey (and since it would be a back up if there were any damage to the screen it wouldn't be too bad). Or would the ideal set up be a traditional CRT TV? Thank you for your thoughts and comments, and I hope everyone is doing well.
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Hello, I’m wondering if anyone can identify the wood type the Magnavox odyssey uses on its woodgrain patter, I want to duplicate the pattern with another odyssey inspired project. Does anyone know the type or at least a good substitute? It’s a darker woodgrain
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This game is as simple as it gets in terms of controls. The joystick is used while the button is not. It would have been nice if the joystick allowed you to move left and right and adjust your shot up or down and to shoot you would use the fire button. Still this is a fun two player only game. Best part is the manual with those bright neon colors and futuristic design.
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Wanted: Magnavox Odyssey 2 Games , Looking for these titles, either loose or CIB Pick Axe Pete! Math-A-Magic!/Echo ! Take The Money and Run! Out of this World!/Helicopter Rescue! Casino Slot machine! I have boxes for these, looking for games to fill them. Alternatively, I can sell the boxes and get CIB copies of the above games Also interested in other O2 Games, CIB (Boxed) preferred.
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I have the original Odyssey (the one released in 1972), and I was wondering since the original AC adapters are a bit hard to find, is it compatible with any other AC adapter? I'm fine using the batteries but figured it would be better to just plug it into an outlet rather than cause any wear and tear to the battery compartment.
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Hi guys, I have recently gotten my hands on an Odyssey 2 and it's "The Voice" module. After hooking everything up, I tried my copy of Smithereens! and found that the sound comming from The Voice was rather quiet. I suspected that the capacitors needed replaced, so I ordered a kit and installed them. After the installation I noticed a little improvement (the sound was not audible with the volume at max), but the sound is still very quiet. Has anyone here ever experienced something similar? Are there other possible common defects I can look into? I have read around that The Voice originaly came with it's own power adapter. I only have the stock AC adapter that came with my Odyssey 2 unit (11.5V, 400ma). Could this be the culprit? If so, what are the power specs of the adapter that came with The Voice? Thanks for any advice.
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Hey all, I was perusing my old issues of Odyssey Adventure tonight {I've got 2}, and I couldn't help but return to something I discovered some time ago, but haven't had a chance to explore further. {More on this in a second} Now, at the outset, at risk of ridicule, I always thought, and still think {within reason of course}, all things considered, .... That U.F.O. is the Greatest game of all time!!! OK, let's move on from that. I've fared pretty well on this game over the years, and I finally conquered my childhood high score {it's now 901}. But, with my strategy I find it to be more a test of patience and focus, trying to always be ready to flee that unexpected death ray that could come at any moment, and I have always found that the one thing holding it back from the echelons of greatness in many other peoples' minds is the lack of the ability {or a trick if you will} to aggressively and consistently go on the attack against that dreaded and sometimes wholly unfair Starship. Well, back to the discovery, there was a guy name Shawn Watson {High Score - 11,090} who clearly must have discovered that trick. I just can't believe someone could get a score like that without being able to confidently go on the attack against that starship. I may not have the reflexes of a kid, but I've tried to figure this ship out, and I can do it 5 or 10 times or so, but that thing will always win in short order. Well, if there is anybody else out here {and I'll go to the Videopac.nl site soon as well} who likes this game too, and thinks they know the "trick" {Note: A video would be worth a 1000 words} or knows this Shawn Watson guy , then me and perhaps 1,2 or many others will be most interested in hearing. I've also attached some tips from Odyssey Adventure in case it helps someone enjoy this game more {that one from Krista Cugno could maybe stand some explaining or further investigation though}. Sorry for the length, but I'm too tired to proofread it down. Thanks for any thoughts.