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  1. I figured I’d try my hand at making a few different 5200 controllers, and as a Paddle Controller was never commercially available…I figured I’d start there. So unveiling my - 5200 S.S. Edition – VVG Paddle Controller: I found a few examples online of how others have done something similar, but as I wanted a “full-featured” & “stand-alone” 5200 handheld Paddle Controller, I wasn’t going to be able to start with any existing controller as a donor. So the base enclosure is a Hammond Mfg. black anodized, extruded aluminum enclosure, with aluminum end plates and a slide-out aluminum belly plate. Needless to say the enclosure is extremely robust, machines very well, and is only slightly larger than a normal CX-52. Normally the selection of a potentiometer for the control in a paddle controller is kind of a no-brainer. Pick one with the resistance value that you require, and that has the physical attributes that will allow for its installation in your project. But when researching paddle controllers others have made/modified for the 5200 and 2600, I had read complaints that some felt the controls were too sensitive for some games or not sensitive enough for others. So I chose a 2-Gang, 500k ohm linear potentiometer wired through a SPDT switch, so that I can switch between 500k ohm and 1M ohm at the push of a switch. The 500k ohm setting is less “touchy” and allows for finer movements and control, while the 1M ohm setting allows for super quick on-screen movements, like those necessary in the higher levels of Kaboom! The resistance selection switch is located on the lower end plate and is protected from accidental in-game switching, by a clear flip-cover. The switch to the right of the resistance selection switch is a SP3T (ON) – ON – (ON) paddle rocker switch, which is wired as the controller’s Up/Down controls. This allows me to maneuver around my AtariMax Ultimate SD Multi-Cart menu line by line for game selection. For the games I intend to use this with, I don’t know that I really need both 5200 buttons, but I figured as I was going all out, I might as well include both the Top & Bottom buttons… …and to make it ambidextrous, I installed them on both sides: The side buttons are Sanwa SDM-18 arcade test buttons. They feature concave plungers for a great vintage feel, and have a nice light/short press to make the contacts. Of course it wouldn’t be a “full-featured” & “stand-alone” 5200 controller if it didn’t have its own 12 button keypad and Start/Pause/Reset buttons, so I installed a 4x4 membrane keypad with a custom overlay modeled after the original CX-52 buttons. This allows for all game selections and auxiliary controls, without the need for a wye cable and/or a 2nd controller to be used in tandem. Lastly as I don’t normally sit within 2’ of my gaming consoles, and I don’t like using extension cables if I don’t have to, I bought and wired a 10’ 5200/Neo-Geo extension cable for the cord w/ molded plug end. The plug end has the longer/deeper cut required for the Neo-Geo, but I don’t have any issue with it on my 4-Port. I think the control knob itself has a good vintage look, and I like the aluminum disc in the center, but I think I’m going to keep looking for something different. The potentiometer has a standard ¼” shaft so there are lots of options on the market…I’ll see if I can find something I like any better. Additionally I’m going to make an inline 5200-to-2600 adapter cable so that I can use this on/with with Atari 2600/8-bit games, and I'll make a properly pinned wye cable so that I can plug (2) of these into (1) 2600/8-Bit controller port, for 2-player 2600/8-bit games. Enjoy!
  2. Hi, I recently aquired a pair of Best Electronics paddle controllers with the upgraded pots. When powering on the 2600 with the Harmony and paddles connected, the menu will scroll uncontrollably from page to page and will never stop, making it impossible to select a game. Turning the paddles or pressing the fire button seems to have no effect. The paddles do work fine in-game however, with no issues that I can detect. I have tested on 2 separate 2600 systems with the same results. I have also tried an older set of paddles (with bad jitter) that do not exhibit this issue. Any idea what the problem could be?
  3. A box recently arrived at my house. In it was a handful of 2600 homebrews, including Medieval Mayhem, Gunfight, and Warring Worms. Now beforehand I considered myself a "pro" at games like PONG and Warlords. I was good enough at PONG aka "Video Olympics" that I was about an even match for my buddy using the difficulty switches to handicap myself, with me using the small paddle and him using the larger one. And I could whup him in Warlords, too. I remembered the AI being really easy to beat on the original Warlords, but when I popped in the Medieval Mayhem cart, I got my @ss handed to me on a silver platter. At first, I played a round with the default "fast" setting on 3 balls, then "slow", then "Medieval," getting beat every time, and after reading the manual, I set it to "Kids" with 1 ball, disabled holding on all but my own paddle, and set myself up as the Blue Castle, which seemed to be the strongest CPU player. I still kept getting whupped, and I couldn't win a single round, ever... My score (Medieval Mayhem, "kids", 1 ball): 0-1-4-5. It seemed like the "speed" setting only slows down the rate of the balls, but not the reaction of the AI players. Instead, the CPU players hit the ball every time with ninja reflexes, and the rounds drag on forever, sometimes with me (blue) eliminated before the red and green even had a single hit on their castles. I thought to myself, "I know I don't suck this bad," and their doesn't seem to be any option to actually "dumb down" the CPU opponents. It's like I'm playing the same "expert" opponents regardless of what speed I set the balls at. "kids" mode with 1 ball just made the gameplay painfully slow. I didn't recall sucking that bad, so I popped in the original Warlords and started a 1 player game. Like I expected, it was a total shutout within a few very short minutes. My score (Warlords, single player, variation #4): 5-0-0-0 While I must admit, the graphics and audio are absolutely superb, it's just not any fun unless I can get some kind of balanced difficulty. Next time my buddy comes over to my house, I'll give it a whirl, but it seems like there's no real way to dumb down the AI, short of playing a 2 player game in 4 player mode against "dead" opponents, which is boring and lame. I don't even own a second set of paddles. My friend is slightly less skilled than I am at Warlords (although he could whup my butt in Combat), and I imaging when we finally play each other on Medieval Mayhem, the CPU will probably annihilate us, unless we play doubles mode. Honestly, the dumb AI in the original Warlords made for a great multiplayer experience. In opposite corners, we would often play co-op until the enemies were annihilated, then it would be all out war between the two of us, winner take all. I don't know when I'll be able to invite him over again with his work schedule, and my mom and fiance are complete non-gamers. Anyone else run into problems trying to play Medieval Mayhem, or do I just really suck that bad? If I could somehow get the CPU opponents to be somewhere harder than Warlords, but easier than it is now, then maybe it would be a more well-rounded experience. I really want to be able to set the CPU so that I win some and lose some, but as it stands, Warlords is a pushover and Medieval Mayhem just seems unfair. Don't get me wrong, I want to enjoy this game, but it's hard to play against a CPU that constantly wins or constantly loses. I read the reviews and they said the AI was a lot smarter in Medieval Mayhem, but this is insane. I know Atari fixed the CPU difficulty in single player variations of PONG by setting a maximum velocity for the paddle to travel, ensuring that the human opponent would have a fair chance to win. I really want to love this game. Hopefully, the AI in "Gunfight" and "Warring Worms" will be a little more balanced...
  4. I'm looking for multiple knobs for the Atari 2600 paddle controllers that are not broke or cracked
  5. I have a darth vader 2600 model. First I only played Night Driver and seems to work. But maybe is because this game is more binary left/right. All other paddle games the sprite move corner left to corner right, without gradation. Any hint where the problem can be? Thanks.
  6. I'm making this thread because I'm not a big fan of the SVA 2 controllers and I'm working on replacing them. The hunt for joysticks is going just fine, as there are many of those made for the 2600, and they all seem to work more or less identically on the SVA 2. Where I'm having a huge difficulty is in getting working paddles. The SVA 2 controllers work as paddles, but they are not as comfortable to me as are the official 2600 paddles. The problem is that the official paddles are difficult. In Warlords, they work like on the 2600, where you plug them into ports 1 and 2 and they control players 3 and 4, but they also require one to have the button option of the system set to 'Joystick', which means I cannot use one set of atari paddles and the two SVA 2 controllers to make 4 players. That's not a big deal for me, since I'll be buying another set of paddles, but a bigger problem is Breakout. It only picks up one of the official paddles when in port 1, and when in port 2 there is no effect. Maybe it actually works fine in port 2 as a player 3/4 control, but I have not yet seen this happen. There are some other inconsistencies, but nothing yet that has affected the games (Kaboom plays properly, for example). I just want to understand why paddles are so tempermental on the SVA 2, and to learn of what controllers will work properly on the system. It looks like some games work fine with two sets of atari paddles, but what should I do for games that do not work this way on an SVA 2? And are there any other weird things I should know about the SVA 2?
  7. I heard at one point that just as there was an original model of the ordinary paddle which had the Atari logo instead of the word "paddle," there was also an original model of the driving paddle which similarly had the Atari logo rather than the word "driving." The closest I've seen to one is on eBay there was an auction for driving paddles "CIB" and the box had a picture of driving paddles as I described above. However, the actual paddles inside the box in this auction said "driving" rather than having the logo. Does anyone know for sure whether these mythical driving paddles exist? Better yet, does anyone own one that can post a picture? I'm trying to collect an entire set of "first run" Atari hardware including the heavy sixer with original accessories and controllers. Thanks!
  8. I just got a pair of paddles of ebay along with Super Breakout. The paddles were basically non-functioning, no matter how I turned it the bar was either to the left or to the right. I disassembled one of them, cleaned all the gunk off the black ring and contacts in the pot and reassembled. After that, it worked just fine in the game. I had seen some reports of people using this game or that, or saying game x wasn't a good game to test with. If you don't have a game, or want a more precise way to test your paddles, put your basic cart in and run the following program: 10 PRINT PADDLE(0), PADDLE(1) : GOTO 10 RUN That will constantly print out the current value of the paddles 1 and 2 connected to joystick port 1. The values will range from 0 to 228, and the values should be steady without you moving the paddle, and should smoothly increase or decrease as you move them. I've since cleaned the other pot, and both work quite well in Super Breakout. I think I may pick up the Castle Crashers game here soon (along with another set of paddles).
  9. As suggested by Random Terrain in this thread, I've made a new thread to ask the specific question: How do I get the driving paddle to work? I know that it's been done in zombie chase and the code is something akin to this (this version was tweaked a bit by bogax: const nomove = 1 const turnright = 0 const turnleft = 2 data ptbl nomove, turnright, nomove, turnleft turnleft, nomove, turnright, nomove turnright, nomove, turnleft, nomove nomove, turnleft, nomove, turnright end temp1 = SWCHA / 4 & $C temp1 = temp1 | last last = temp1 / 4 if ptbl[temp1] & nomove then goto no_move if ptbl[temp1] & turnleft then goto left else goto right However, when I try this, it just results in a constant turn one direction or the other. Note: that is using Stella with the Driving controller selected. Could someone perhaps give a very simple working example or maybe point out what's wrong, if anything?
  10. Since i came across the Paddle for the Atari Portable by Lovablechevy: i had the Idea for a Usb Paddle for the Legit 2017 Atari Flashback Portable i have the following ingredients: that Atari Paddle Thingy from Basic fun (without the Docking Station) and a mini usb (USB B) game controller for the Handheld Famiclones from the Flea Market (Model JD-2008) in the Attachment is a picture of Both Ingredients. is it possible to make such a thing? may i get a guide to do this?
  11. Here's the newest addition to the MiniVex controller lineup for Vectrex. The MiniVex V features a steel case and an adjustable rapid fire feature for button #4, like the other models do. This one's got a LH mounted spinner control and a RH mounted analog paddle control. The spinner can be used with some homebrew games and an assortment of original Vectrex titles that have been modified for spinner use. It also doubles as an extra fire button, just push down on it. The paddle control can be used with the game "Hyperchase" in its original, unmodified Vectrex cartridge format, as well as Vectrace, Spike's Water Balloons, Vaboom, and a few other homebrew titles. There's also a switch that selects the X or Y axis for the paddle, which allows you to navigate menus on multi-carts AND crank up the thrusters on Moon Lander. All in all, a versatile package. Need additional info? Please post here or PM me. Larry
  12. Here’s my new game, and why I needed help plotting out circles. It’s called Robin’s Roundabouts. This is a PADDLE game. Your task is to drive through a never ending succession of roundabouts without crashing into other cars or the curb. When you do, you're going to have repair costs. Press the fire button to step on the gas. All of my games so far have been about current events in Wisconsin, and this one is no different. Right now in Wisconsin, the big debate is whether we need more funding for roads. Some people believe we’re wasting too much money on roundabouts. Others, like the Assembly Speaker (Robin), say roundabouts are not the problem. However, it sometimes does seem like the state overdoes it with roundabouts. It’s not uncommon to find five in a row. The code is a little sloppy, but I included a lot of comments to guide you through it. Some things I learned writing it were: - Usually paddles are used to set sprite positions directly. This program uses the paddle to determine a variable, which is used to calculate the sprite’s position. - Plotting a circle with an adjustable radius - How to use icons for lives using the life counter One thing I still don’t understand is what happens to a temp variable when you define it differently within just a couple lines. Please play and enjoy. Remember this is a PADDLE game (on Stella: start the game, press tab, click controller, change player0 to paddle, exit, when the game starts back up press ctrl+r). Feel free to clean up the code or improve it. I’d really appreciate it if you would. Special thanks to Bogax for teaching me to plot a circle! RobinsRoundabouts.bas RobinsRoundabouts.bas.bin
  13. New MiniVex controller for Atari 2600 / VCS combines a joystick, paddle, and driving controller all in one unit! Up until now, MiniVex controllers were made for the Vectrex (with the exception of the MiniVex Pedal I, which is compatible with both Vectrex and Atari) but this one is strictly Atari compatible. Compact size fits right in your hand, see second photo for size comparison. ONE cord and ONE plug, you can play your favorite games, one after the other, without having to unplug and plug in all the different controllers. Case is made of tough steel, has a weighty feel to it. Two toggle switches on the back. One selects joystick or paddle function, and the other toggles between paddle "A" and paddle "B." The black button on the back enables and disables the driving controller. Two buttons for your convenience, no matter if you're left or right handed. Either button can be used with any of the three controllers. Driving controller on the left, paddle on the right. Joystick in the center has the feel of an analog stick but functions like a digital one. All new parts used in the making, so there'll be no jittering during Breakout or Indy 500. This and other MiniVex controllers are hand-made by me, so they aren't cosmetically perfect. They do come with a 30-day repair guarantee. A handful of these will be auctioned on eBay during the next few weeks, as they get made. The hand-making process is slow, and how many will ultimately be made remains up in the air at this point. Please see this and my other eBay listings under seller name "classicgamesandcarsfan." Larry
  14. I'm looking for some very common 2600 & 7800 items and eBay prices are getting me down. Please PM me if you have anything below for sale. I'm in the US and am looking for carts only. 2600 Air Raiders Amidar Arkanoid Demons to Diamonds Enduro Fantastic Voyage Fathom Fishing Derby Frogger II Frostbite Ghostbusters Gorf Gravitar Hero Jungle Hunt Keystone Capers Krull Laser Gates Masters of the Universe Megamania Midnight Magic Millipede Moonsweeper Off the wall Outlaw Pitfall & II Pressure Cooker Q Bert River Raid Robot Tank Seaquest Solar Fox Solar Storm Solaris Sorcerer’s Apprentice Spiderman Stargate Star Wars Arcade Star Wars: Death Star Battle Star Wars: Jedi Arena Subterranea Superman Threshold Tunnel Runner Wizard of Wor 7800 Choplifter Commando Crossbow Donkey Kong Donkey Kong Jr. Rampage Tower Toppler
  15. I own an Atari 2600 heavy sixer and I'm looking for a little help diagnosing a problem. I've bought two sets of used paddle controllers (two controllers attached to one wire) and neither has worked. My problem is, I don't know if my controllers, or my joystick ports are to blame. After disassembling all four pots and cleaning them, there is no change. So I looked up a pinout of the 2600 joystick ports, and found this little number. http://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_05_2014/post-32232-0-25905600-1400246916.gif I do happen to have the Video Touchpad controller, and testing it with Star Raiders shows it is in perfect working condition. I notice that pins 5 and 9 are shared by the touchpad and the paddles for input. If my touchpad works fine, am I correct in assuming that this eliminates the possibility of my joystick port(s) being bad? If so, what the heck is most likely wrong with my paddles? Where do these things fail most often? I'm looking to fix them, but I'm not sure if it is feasible.
  16. I've just started up my Atari collection and I bought a 2600 Jr bundle off a local selling page. Bundled in with it was this controller paddle by ''Dynacom''. Does anyone know anything more about them? I've been trying to research them for the past hour or so but can't find much. Apparently they were only sold in Brazil and are pretty hard to come by. I've only found a few mentions of them on the internet and nothing gives me any info on their value. Any help would be appreciated, cheers! This is the most I've found on them - Dynacom: Rare paddle controller that featured suction cups on the base. It was only available in Brazil. Description from ad: "The control of strong emotions. The Dynacom Paddle Controller is the only unique rotary controller for video games that allows precise and highly reliable shots. The Paddle Controller can be used in Dynavision and other games compatible with the Atari system. To ensure strong emotions with your Paddle Controller, the following games are already available." Sources - http://www.2600connection.com/faq/controllers/faq_controllers.html http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-614870198-raro-controles-paddle-dynacom-atari-2600-_JM Thanks, Superdead22 Image of the same paddles I found online.
  17. Have the atari 5200 paddle controllers been found by any collectors yet?? and if so, are are any of them complete? :?
  18. While watching Transformers 4, a couple of familiar figures got me hooked. An Atari Paddle, next to a Quickshot joystick, are being used by Mark Wahlberg while he is guiding the drone with the credit card to the ATM in the movie. Sadly I didn't noticed any other Atari item in the movie. Still, its really cool to see relics from the past (especially Atari ones) being used as movie props.
  19. So by now there are tones of adapters and USB type controllers that can replace the joystick controller, are there any controllers or adapters for the paddle controllers? What is the best know Computer equivalent to the paddle controllers? If there aren't is anyone aware of any projects that make use of GPIO on the raspberry pi to allow the paddle controller to work? Mind you I am not looking to emulate any games I don't own and am not endorsing others doing so as well. I mainly want to have a portable system I can load my games up and play hook up easily to a modern TV.
  20. I found this lovely thread, which answers many of my questions about the paddle. However, there are still a few questions left unanswered: 1. What is the "idle" state of a paddle? That is, what is its resting position? Apparently its values can be 0 - 76, but which value does it rest at? 2. What happens when one twists the knob the other direction? Paddles, if I'm not mistaken, can be twisted both directions, so what happens if one twists it the other way? Does the value decrease from its "center" position towards 0 then, upon hitting 0, it returns to 76? 3. How are paddles meant to react? Does turning it clockwise typically denote moving something right in a game, or does turning counterclockwise denote right?
  21. Edited after figuring out answer: This game, Rain of Terror, is a PAL ATR game for atari 8-bit. In MAME, it works sort of with the keyboard set up (only all left, all right or straight up), but it is supposed to be used with paddles to shoot at ~9 positions of a semi-circle from ground. I am using a 2600-daptor II to plug an atari 2600 paddle pair into the PC for MAME. Couldn't figure out how fire properly but figured it out later in post below. BTW, this is a contest winner from Europe. Also, can anyone explain why there are five fields for the "paddle analog", "paddle analog dec" and "paddle analog inc" in MAME? Paddle only seems to move when I use the fifth "paddle analog" field. Rain Of Terror (p).atr
  22. I just found some pretty cool stuff in my parents basement. It's the last of my collection that I didn't have any idea that existed. I don't know what to say about it. The last time I used any of it was many many years ago. I'm taking offers. There can't be worth that much. So if you're interested shoot me a PM and we can work something out. I have the following: NES fourscore Playstation Dual Shock 2600 driving controller 2600 paddle controller x2 RF switch Suncom Tac-3 Goldstar 3D0 controller Sold R-Type for the Sega Master system Gone. Like I said earlier I haven't used these in many years. The last time I used these, they worked fine. I don't have a way of testing any of them. So I'm selling them as they are. Edit-I'm also up if someone has a copy of Nights for the Saturn if anyone has one available.
  23. Hello Hopefully someone more experienced can help me with my Atari 2600 problem: I fell in love with the Atari VCS last year when I got a Flashback 8 Gold HD. Finally I bought a real Atari VCS (Darth Vader, NTSC version) on eBay a couple of weeks ago. It was allready modded to A/V output by the previous owner. Unfortunately it shows some heavy jittering/shaking when using paddle games. First I carefully cleaned the Paddle pots but this didn't help (and it happens with other controllers as well). During cleaning I accidentally found out that jittering will stop as long as I touch the bare cable which is soldered to the circular resistor with my hands. Because there was a loose connection within the power supply I bought a new power adaptor but this did not affect this jittering problem. I am not a technician but I guess if something simple like touching an electrical contact can stop this jittering it might be fixable. I added a Youtube video which shows the problem and some pictures of the paddle and mainboard. On the paddle picture I point with a screwdriver to the sensitive/touchy contact. The red circle on the mainboard picture shows the corresponding electric solder bump on the board - touching this point with my hand will stop jittering as well. Because it is not that easy to get an NTSC Atari in Germany (without ordering from the USA) it would be great if I could repair this unit. I will be very grateful if someone could help me with some educated guesses or hints how to solve this problem Youtube link:
  24. I've seen USB adapters for connecting Atari 2600 paddle controllers to a PC, but what about connecting USB optical mice to a real Atari to use as paddles? I'm interested in trying a regular wired USB optical mouse or PC wired USB optical trackball for controlling paddle games - not only would it give a different gaming experience than paddles, but optical controllers would also be "jitter proof". I have already made my own spinner controllers for MAME and Stella on the computer very simply, by duct-taping an optical mouse against a shaft (such as a wood dowel, or a wood dowel through a section of foam pool noodle) connected to a knob, and it works beautifully. So I am curious about making an adapter using an Arduino or Raspberry Pi or similar, that you can plug the mouse into, and outputs the variable resistances that would emulate a real paddle controller on the 2600. (The paddle button would be a simple matter of wiring the button to the appropriate pins.) Has anyone tried this, seen a page on this, or got any idea how a microcontroller might output the resistance range (1M ohm) that a native 2600 paddle controller would?
  25. Three controllers in one! MiniVex 3-in-1 Deluxe for the Atari 2600 / VCS provides a joystick, driving controller, and paddle all in one unit, PLUS a detachable mini-paddle to add a second player to paddle based-games. Play all your favorite games, one after the other, with no need to unplug and plug in all the different controller types. The original 3-in-1 has a switch for toggling between paddle "A" and paddle "B." The Deluxe instead has a jack for the mini-paddle, so your trash-talking buddy can challenge you in Street Racer. Joystick has the feel of an analog stick but functions like a digital one. All new internal parts are used, so NO jittering during driving or paddle games. Either button can be used with any of the three controls, making it friendly for both right and left handers. Cases are made of tough steel; your dog cannot chew them to pieces. Note: these are hand-made by me, so they aren't cosmetically perfect. 30-day repair guarantee. Please see photos below and check out this link to see the MiniVex 3-in-1's and all my other items currently available: eBay Seller: classicgamesandcarsfan Thanks for stopping in. Larry
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