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Found 4 results

  1. Hey all! I have an UltraSatan v1.1 that is not detected by any Atari ST that I connect it to. It has been working fine since 2017. What happens: - Running the configuration software just lists 0 through 7 and then reports that the US was not found. - Using the same power/cables/SD I can access a different UltraSatan without issues. - When powered up the LEDs for each slot blink, as expected - When an SD card is inserted, the LED blinks, as expected What I've tried: - Tested on multiple Atari ST's - Swapped out cables, SD card and power supply - Shorting out J2 to boot from the base firmware - Swapped out the coin battery - Reflow solder on the IDC connector pins on the US So, at this point I'm looking at an interface issue on the US itself... A buffer chip or something similar. I would like to get debug data from the UART port, but I don't have a pinout for J1, which is where the UART and JTAG connection should be, but I could be wrong. Does anyone have the pinout for the UltraSatan connectors? Any suggestions on where I should start troubleshooting?
  2. Hello. I found an old Atari 2600 console clone in my basement. Seems to be broken, some parts are missing, but the chips are all OK (CPU and ROM, I guess). Therefore I'm wondering about reusing these parts somehow on a breadboard or something. But in order to do this, I need some information on these chips and their pinouts, maybe some datasheets or schematics. The chips are labeled as follows: 6591 9208A 922511 DIP-48 (two rows of 24 pins each, 48 in total) Seems to be the CPU. WB2600-4MP DIP-32 (two rows of 16 pins each, 32 in total) Seems to be the ROM. As far as I know, there was no cartridge slot, so the games must be stored on that ROM. There's an empty place on the PCB for another DIP-28 chip, the silkscreen label says "IC3 512K MASK ROM", but there is no chip there and it seems that it has never been. HD14011BP 2C26 Just four 2-input NAND gates. MC14024BCP FFES9206 Motorola chip, 7-stage ripple counter, I guess for clock division or something, since it is near the quartz resonator. The resonator is: STANDARD 17.734475 (which I guess is its frequency in MHz) I see no separate TV circuit/chip, so I guess the TV signal is generated on the main CPU somehow. Could it be that the CPU has a TV signal generator integrated in it? I can post some photos of the PCB if needed. But I hope the labels on the chips will be enough for the experts to identify them. Can anyone help me with identifying the chips and supply some descriptions of their pinouts? Perhaps some more detailed datasheets? --- I also found an old Atari 65 XE motherboard. Unfortunately it's broken in half so the chips in the middle of the board are broken as well ;/ But other chips on the edges of the board are OK, so I'll try to reuse them as well. But I'll describe that in a separate thread later.
  3. I finally got a chance to open up the 1400XL I found at a garage sale. I'm planning to build a power cable for it that will connect to a PC power supply. I used Jerzy Sobola's 1400XL schematic as a guide: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/244786-1400xl-on-ebay/page-5 I checked each pin of the power jack against known test points on the board. However, the result seems different than what's on the schematic or what I've seen on the power supply pictures elsewhere in the forum. Here's what I'm getting: -5V and +12V appear to be switched on my board from what I've seen elsewhere. I tested my board by checking continuity between +12V on the jack and one end of R140. I also verified that -5V was connected to the other pole of the power switch from +5V. Finally, I verified +5V as connected to the power LED. Am I missing something here? This is one of those things you want to get right on the first try Here's a pic of the board in case that helps:
  4. Hello all - Since jumping into this thing and doing little projects here and there, I have suffered some setbacks, and enjoyed a few surprising successes. But, this latest project I've embarked upon has given me quite a few ups and downs, with an emphasis on the down. I have a Wico Keypad that was only registering a few buttons. I swapped a cable and confirmed it's the cable. Despite urgings from the intelligence center of my brain, I had to jump into getting to the bottom of it and solving my problem {without consulting the pros here first, of course}. How hard could it be to get some new wires from keypad box to the tip of a new donor cable? Well, long story short, I failed. I've attached a photo. My question is: Does anyone have a simple explanation of where each of the 15 colored wires in that line within the keypad need to be when they reach the DB15 tip of the new cable? I'll gladly expand if anyone can join me in solving this dilemma {and even hope to be gratefully embarrassed if/when someone shows me one of those simple pinout diagrams like for converting O2 sticks to Atari, etc.} But, so far I'm not seeing it. NOW, I have seen that page that someone explains the matrix array set-up of these controllers, and with that and following the lines on the boards, and some great mental strain etc. I could see solving this puzzle some day.... AND, as you may be able to see from the picture, I've got all the wires tipped with male prongs, and a female to female gender changer adapter on it's way. It sure would be nice {and I would be more than quite grateful} if, when that gender changer adapter arrives, I could just plug those male prongs 1,2,3....15 right into their respective spots at the DB15 tip and begin to feel I've brought something good back into the world again. Thanks for reading, helping, etc. A final note {since you've stayed on this far}: Wico, in a cruel twist {and causing all my pain here} embedded their wires in some blackened amber encasement at the tip of the cable, making tracking the wires nearly impossible {I was able to track like 3 of them after a "careful" destruction of the tip}. Also, the damage was done, but it didn't help that they included 2 orange/white wires into the mix. Thanks again.
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