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Found 32 results

  1. Purchased a Fairchild Channel F model 1 and the power supply brick was busted open. Wires were ripped out of the transformer and is beyond repair unfortunately. If anyone has an extra power supply laying around or one from a parts console, please message me. I would like to purchase a used power supply.
  2. So what switch accessories are you snapping up? So far I purchased: -Insignia Carrying case-space for the Switch and 6 game cards, accessories -Tempered glass screen protector-2 pack- The switch screen is plastic and scratches easily, this was a quick order Tried to purchase -Pro controller-still can't find one locally Interested in Purchasing -A second dock-for my upstairs TV, may just have to get off the Nintendo website soon -Larger carrying case, with room for dock, cables, and a pro controller-for hooking up to friends and families TV and such -Charging grip and second set of joycons-but finding it hard to justify the $110 pricetag of that combo (sort of ridiculous really) -Some sort of stand for the switch, as it seems rather obvious at this point that the built in kick stand is flimsy and useless -I heard rumors of arcade sticks being released...and with SSFII coming out this might be interesting What accessories did you get or are you looking forward to?
  3. So my 5200 has apparently given up the ghost and just refuses to turn on. I recall the last time it functioned (about a month ago was when I played it last) it took a couple of tries to get it to turn on, but eventually it worked perfectly fine and I was able to turn it off and on with ease as I switched out games. Now all of the sudden it doesn't want to turn on at all. I have had this 5200 for a few years, and it has worked great otherwise. At the moment I don't have anything to test the power supply itself. But I'm assuming it's the switchbox. When I was trying to turn it on I examined the switchbox after several attempts and noticed it smelled like burning plastic. It wasn't strong, but you could definitely smell it if you held it up to your nose. I took it apart and everything looks good, except for the part where you plug in the actual power supply. The part where you plug the console in - which was where it smelled like burning plastic the most when I examined it - seems okay. Attached are pics of the switchbox, which I have taken out of its shell to look at. As you can see, the part where you plug the power supply into (the black thing, I don't know the name of it) seems rusty and corroded all over. Would this be my problem? Could I take it off the switchboard and clean it up, or would it be best to just buy a new part? Also, what can I use to test out my power supply to make sure that's not what's causing the issue?
  4. In the guts of it now. I'll link the pics here when done. For now, you can follow along on Facebook if you like. New pic each milestone. https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10206883911608295&id=1592441926&ref=bookmarks
  5. Since I have begun dabbling in programming for the Atari 2600, I have become interested in running a PAL system for testing purposes. I have one wood-grain 4-switch NTSC VCS, and there are multiple PAL VCS's for sale on eBay at reasonable prices. My main question is about displaying the signal. I obviously don't have a PAL CRT, and the only way to get one would be to pay a fortune to ship one from across the pond. Not to mention that I would need to power it with the proper voltage at 50Hz. I have heard that the Commodore 64 1080/1084 monitors will accept PAL signals, though (I think), but getting a PAL CRT is pretty much out of the question for now. I was thinking of instead getting a signal converter so I could display the picture on a NTSC CRT, something like in this video. It seems too good to be true, but could something as inexpensive as this converter be all I need? One other question. I noticed that my power supply converts from 110V 60Hz to 9v DC. If I plug a PAL system into a US wall outlet, will it work properly? Or will I need a different power supply? I would assume that both NTSC and PAL systems run at 9V, but I may be wrong.
  6. Hello there, I got a quick question for all you atari expert here I'v recently found an old atari 600XL with no power supply or other cables. I've looked up the input voltages and hooked the atari up to a simple 5v, 1.5A ac-dc converter. Now when I turn the atari on I get a red power light on, but my tv cannot find any channels on the rf-output (it can find the signal for the nintendo, so i suppose the tv can't be the problem?) I also came some information that said you should not use an alternative power supply for the 600XL, at least not an unreglated. What exactly are the requirement for the atari 600XL power supply? I've measured the voltages from mine. With the atari off, it gives 5.23 volts. When I switch the atari on it goes to 5.07 volt. That's 3%. Should I assume that the converter I have is unregulated? Or is 5.07 too low? Any information on the matter would be welcome, I hope I can get this nice machine to work again. I'm going to try building a video cable for the monitor connected today, to see if only the rf-module is busted. Thank you! Bram
  7. I have an old US Colecovision power supply that game with my system, but I've been interested in replacing it for a while - it's been buzzing, and given the periodic graphical screwups I've been concerned that the issue is that power supply dying. I finally bit the bullet and bought a Canadian supply on ebay that was listed as tested and working, etc. Well when I got it and plugged it in, nothing happened. The game screen didn't pop up (though the static patterns on my tv changed slightly). I complained to the seller, who sent me another one he had available... same issue. Now one bad supply could happen, sure, but getting two seems a bit weird. Anyone have any idea what could be wrong, and how I could test that and fix it? The US supply still boots up the system, so I'm inclined to think it's related to the Canadian supplies themselves... unless there's an issue on the power jack's pins or something.
  8. Hi everyone, New to the forum and the Atari 800XL. I recently (yesterday) managed to get my hands on this machine with disk drive and a bunch of games (both cartridge and disks), and the touch tablet from Freecycle. Not bad really but alas my joyful evening of playing Space Invaders has been ruined by a lack of power. Not in the house, thankfully, but with the machine. Now I have an issue. Is it likely to be the power supply that came with it or the 800XL itself. How am I to tell? Is there an easy way to tell? Does anyone live near me with a working power supply that is happy to let me come check my machine - or does someone have a spare supply that they don't need?! I don't really want to go and buy a replacement PSU if the machine is a brick anyway understandably. My current PSU is the CO61763 if that helps any. I flick the switch and nothing happens. Changed the fuse and nothing. Don't know what to do now. Hoping to get other systems along the way (Would love a Lynx, Jaguar and 2600) so this is my first foray into Atari systems - though I used to play a 2600 quite a lot as a kid So is there anyone in the Kent, Sussex, Surrey, London (UK BTW) area that could help me out? Cheers R
  9. I live in the US and I recently bought a G7400 VideoPac from Europe. Can anyone comment on whether it would be possible to swap an internal power transformer in an odyssey 2 with the transformer in the G7400 to get the correct voltage to the system? It seems like a reasonable alternative to buying a step down converter, but I don't have the technical background to know for sure. Suggestions or comments? Thanks
  10. I have recently gotten my XF551 up and running by replacing the Mitsumi d503 mech. The previous owner had routed around a broken power switch by cutting a trace and jumpering so it's always on. So I have been pulling out the power cord when I want to turn it off and inserting it when I want to turn it on. A pain, but oh well. Recently that power supply died with voltage going close to zero. I have several of these supplies since they're the same as the 1050, but before I start using another one I will ask this question: could the death of this power supply have anything to do with turning the drive on and off by inserting and pulling the plug? Related question - it would be very easy for me to add a generic switch to the jumpered area -- would any 'ol switch work?
  11. I recently received an Atari 2600 (4 switches) which was in working condition from the previous owner. Upon receiving it and plugging it in to my TV, it did not work. I see snow on the TV and I am using the RCA to RF (Coax) connector. I have a multimeter and when I tested the Atari power supply, it shows 20v. Is that an issue given that the brick is rated at 9v? Also, with the power supply connected to an outlet and I plug the cord into the back of the Atari, I do not see the "spark" that other threads mention, regardless of whether or not the Atari is on or off. Unfortunately I do not have a spare Atari power supply or Atari to validate against. If anyone has any thoughts on this, I would appreciate it. Thanks.
  12. I have a few Atari ST items up for auction on ebay. "Cleaning out the attic". These items were from my own Atari ST setup back in the day. These auctions end today (sorry about the late notice). The most interesting items is probably the Spectre GCR (by Gadgets by Small) hardware Macintosh emulator. Here is the wikipedia page for the Spectre GCR: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spectre_GCR You can also find some youtube videos of this device in action. My current Atari ST auctions. Spectre GCR http://www.ebay.com/itm/301850740308 520ST power supply: http://www.ebay.com/itm/301850753109 Power supply for SF354 disk drive: http://www.ebay.com/itm/301850759871 (another) Power supply for SF354 disk drive: http://www.ebay.com/itm/301850761482 I also have some auctions ending today for some Atari 8-bit stuff. I will be posting up some new auctions for Atari stuff (8bit and ST) soon. Check out my other ebay listings here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/chris82369/m.html
  13. For sale: 12 Atari Lynx official power supplies NIB. Asking price: $200 shipping included for the whole lot, or $25 (shipping included) per unit. If you're in the US, include $10 extra for insurance. PM me if you're interested. Payment via PayPal only. Fast shipping as soon as payment is received. Prices are in Canadian dollars for buyers in Canada, and in US dollars for American buyers. Reasonable offers will also be accepted. Here's a link to our eBay profiles: http://www.ebay.ca/usr/ladyjaye75 and http://www.ebay.ca/usr/ericdestcyr
  14. I bought woody sixer vcs off ebay - it looks in mint condition, as do the paddels and joysticks. It doesn't have a power supply, do I need a genuine atari power supply, or can I get a multi adapter from maplin and use that? If so, which way is the polarity and what voltage should I use? I am in the UK. I am so excited!!
  15. Hey guys I found an Atari 400 at Goodwill and bought it yesterday. The problem is there is no power cable and I dont want to pay the $25 for the ones on ebay. Is there any new stuff that works? I thought maybe this would work but I wanna be sure it would fit the adapter plugin on the 400. Thnx
  16. My power is going out about every other use on my TI99/4a. The power comes on, I use it for five minutes to an hour, turn it off, then the computer will not turn back on for several hours. But it will turn on again the next day, and the cycle continues. If you were a bettin' man, would you say that was an internal or external PS problem?
  17. I hope someone out there can help me with a question about general electronics and, in particular, the Videopac G7400 power supply. I live in the US and I recently imported a G7400 Videopac from Europe. I originally was going to get a voltage converter, but I was reading the import guide at this website and on step 3 there is mention of swapping the original power supply with a regulated 12V/5V US power supply. I am perfectly comfortable with the actual replacement, but I don't have the technical knowledge about electronics to ensure that I won't do anything really stupid and install an incompatible PSU. So my question is: Can someone give me some info or a link to a regulated 12V/5V US power supply that would be safe to use? Thanks!
  18. I am looking for an acoustic coupler power supply for the Atari 830 Modem, the TRS80 Interface II Modem, Cat Novation model CAT Novation 490190 modem, or TI-99/4A Phone Modem (part 490267-4). Note I am only looking for a single power supply, all of the listed modems are the same product with cases custom designed for various computer manufacturers. Preference would be for the Ti-99/4A branded modem power supply, or the Cat Novation part #901017 (this was the manufacturer of all of these variants) . Considering that this item no longer suits any real world purpose, I am looking in the $12-$15 US price range max. TIA
  19. Probably a very newbish question, What is the difference between the 9900, 9500, 95000, etc. TI-99 power bricks? I've heard that both the TI-99/4's and the TI-99/4a's have the same model number yet different voltages, yet there seem to be many model numbers, and I've heard that some with the same model number have different voltages. My 9500 and my 95000 seem to have different voltages on pins 2 and 4 so I was wondering which ones are safer to use on the 99/4a. Thanks!
  20. Since I don't know what Atari system it was for, I will post it here. When I bought my 7800 power supply today, the same shop had another Atari power supply sitting right by it. It wasn't overly much bigger than the regular 2600 power supply, but it had a barrel plug on it, so definitely not 2600. The back said it was rated at 10VAC output, 9W, 750ma (Might not be exact there, but it was close to that). The employee thought it was from an Atari flashback, but the design and the fact it said 'Made in USA' on it ruled that out. Any idea what Atari system it was made for?
  21. Hello Atari fans. Possibly a boring post but here goes anyway. I've come across an unusual and official Atari brand CX2000/2600 power supply (UK 240V). I say "rare" because i've probably handled over 1000 2600 PSUs as I recondition the Woody 2600 light sixer models and have purchased 100s of job lots over the last 10 years. The label reads Atari CX-2000/2600 (in that order) It's similar in design to the early 1977/78 Cherry Leisure and Ingersol PSUs which came with UK Sunnyvale light Sixers and the PAL heavy Sixers but must have been made in 1982 (after the Val Proto was made obviously). As far as i'm aware it's unique and interesting that is says 2000 first as it if was made with the Val model in mind? Has anyone ever seen a 120V one of these? Probably not that interesting to most of you, but is to me considering the obscurity of the CX-2000 so I must be the only person with labelled power supply for one. A label error but shows the 2000 was on someones mind at the factory in the UK for it to be produced. Any thoughts?
  22. Hello everyone! I need to make sure that I'm testing my XEGS power supply correctly. Most pinout diagrams on Internet don't specify if the pinout is viewed from the connector's point of view or from the console's plug. Using the pinout configuration displayed on the guides, I get -5VDC instead of 5VDC in the respective pins; therefore, I assume that the guides show the pins reversed (i.e., shown from the console's plug), but I want to make sure if I'm doing the right thing. Any words of wisdom?
  23. I put several Atari 8-bit (and a few ATari ST) items on ebay. View my ebay auctions here: eBay Seller: chris82369 Some of the items include: * Qix cartridge + Gauntlet II disk * Atari 850 interface with original manuals * AtarWriter cartridge + paperclip word processors * Visicalc disks with original manual * Atari 800XL power supply. I also have a few Atari ST items: STM1 mouse, power supplies.
  24. Since I have begun dabbling in programming for the Atari 2600, I have become interested in running a PAL system for testing purposes. I have one wood-grain 4-switch NTSC VCS, and there are multiple PAL VCS's for sale on eBay at reasonable prices. My main question is about displaying the signal. I obviously don't have a PAL CRT, and the only way to get one would be to pay a fortune to ship one from across the pond. Not to mention that I would need to power it with the proper voltage at 50Hz. I have heard that the Commodore 64 1080/1084 monitors will accept PAL signals, though (I think), but getting a PAL CRT is pretty much out of the question for now. I was thinking of instead getting a signal converter so I could display the picture on a NTSC CRT, something like in this video. It seems too good to be true, but could something as inexpensive as this converter be all I need? One other question. I noticed that my power supply converts from 110V 60Hz to 9v DC. If I plug a PAL system into a US wall outlet, will it work properly? Or will I need a different power supply? I would assume that both NTSC and PAL systems run at 9V, but I may be wrong.
  25. Hello! I'm having a problem with my Colecovision the past couple of days. It's been working great for a couple years now. It was working fine just a couple days ago, but suddenly now it only displays mostly static on the screen when I turn it on. There is no visual of any game/startup screen. The attached pic shows the pattern of static I see. Sorry, it's sideways. The top quarter of the tv is plain black, but then there's like a reddish line and the rest is static (although the bottom quarter seems yellowish). I've tried using different RF Adapters and cables and it's the same problem (maybe the colours a little less noticeable, but same issue). For now, I'm just using a direct cable connection to the tv. I've already taken apart the power switch to clean the contacts on its top and bottom halves. No change. Another piece of info. I recently checked out the voltage readings reaching the main board from the power supply. When the power is off: Blue: -4.6 V White: 4.75 V Red: 9.7 V --Wait, isn't that a bit far off? Then I turn the power on and here are the readings: Blue: -4.6 V (same as before) White: 4.75 V (same as before) Red: 6.4 V -- Is this supposed to happen when the power is turned on?? I'm worried that the problem could be the RF Modulator. But those power supply readings seem strange, but I don't know why the system would work fine for years and then suddenly this would be the problem. Anyway, based on this info, and the picture attached, does anyone have any suggestions/ideas of the problem and how to fix? Thanks, all.
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