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I've seen several posts about the 1027 letter quality printer and its uselessness due to rotted print heads. It seems like a neat piece of machinery with the rotating print head and the striker, and I would love to see one in action. I have two of these printers with mostly intact print heads, which I don't intend to ever turn on (I know the print head will self destruct). How hard would it be to take a mold of the print head and use it to cast new print heads out of a more stable material, such as silicone? Alternatively, how hard would it be to take a 3D scan of the print head and use the scan to create a mold? Has anyone tried something like this?
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Summary The Aquarius Printer is a 40 column thermal printer that uses a one-way serial connection. It was marketed for the Mattel Aquarius computer and Intellivision's ECS add-on. Its character set is fixed to match the Aquarius computer's character set. Each character is printed as a pattern of 7x10 dots. It has a 3-way switch on the back to control which parts of the Aquarius character set it can print. The switch settings are labelled as Text, Mixed, and Graphics. Contrary to what the Graphics switch setting would typically imply, there is no known way to print arbitrary pixel / bitmap graphics. The printer has a 40 byte buffer for printable characters. When transmitting data, the printer will not print until either the buffer is full, or until a newline or formfeed byte is received. On the front, it has a Power button and a Paper advance button. The Paper advance button does not advance the paper by a fixed amount; instead it advances the paper for as long as the button is pressed. Unlike many printers of its era and later, it does not have a "test mode" that can be entered by pressing and holding a button while simultaneously turning the printer on. While its interface uses standard RS-232 voltages and signaling, its connectors are non-standard, using a 3.5mm mono audio jack and a 2.5mm mono audio jack. An adapter cable is necessary to connect to a computer. Wiring diagrams are available for building adapter cables for connecting to a PC using a 9-pin serial port or to the Intellivision ECS. Software needs to be set to 1200 baud, 8-bit, no parity, 2 stop bits, and use hardware flow control that is either RTS-CTS and/or DTR-DSR hardware flow control depending on the adapter cable's wiring. Internally, it uses the Olivetti PU-1840 print mechanism and thus can use paper from other printers that use the same print mechanism (example: Alphacom Sprinter 40 and VP42). The Olivetti PU-1840 is controlled by a Hitachi HD6801V0P microcontroller. Output Modes Text Mode Only bytes in the ASCII ranges are printable (hexadecimal bytes 20 through 7E) as well as byte 7F. All other bytes do nothing with the following 3 exceptions: 0A, 0D, and 0C. The hexadecimal bytes 0A and 0D are newlines. A pair of these bytes is considered 1 complete newline. Thus 1 complete newline can be any of the following pairs: 0D 0A, 0A 0D, 0A 0A, or 0D 0D. The printer advances the paper one line on the first byte and drops the 2nd byte, as long as the 2nd byte is a 0A or 0D. If other values are inserted between the 2 bytes of a complete newline, the printer will advance the paper 1 newline, print the inserted characters, and then advance the paper a 2nd time (ex: 0D 20 0D). There is an issue where if too many newlines are printed followed immediately by printable data, the printable data is lost. It is presumed that the CTS signal back to the PC is not being processed properly. The hexadecimal byte 0C is formfeed. It advances the paper to next 1 page boundary, with 1 page being approximately 59 lines. Previously printed data is considered part of the page. For example, if 30 lines of printable bytes were sent followed by a 0C, the paper would be advanced 29 lines. There is an issue where if data is transmitted too soon, i.e. before the formfeed has finished, that data may be incorrectly printed in the middle of the formfeed or may be lost. Graphics Mode All characters are printable, based on the Aquarius computer's character set. However, after power up or a short delay between printing sessions, the data needs to be preceded by 0A 0D before the graphics data can be sent. The first 2 bytes of 0A 0D are not printed, but do cause a newline to occur. Any 0A or 0D that appears after the initial 0A 0D pair are printable characters and are not newlines. However, data can NOT be continuously streamed to the printer indefinitely. Somewhere between 880 to 920 bytes, the printer stops responding. It is recommended that long streams of data be separated into smaller chunks with short delays. Mixed Mode The same as Graphics Mode except that 0A and 0D are newlines. These bytes behave the same as they do in Text Mode. Unlike Graphics Mode, there is no need to prepend the printable characters with 0A 0D. There is an issue where, if too many newlines are printed followed immediately by data, the data is lost. It is presumed that the CTS signal back to the PC is not being processed properly or that the printer needs a brief delay after asserting CTS and receiving more bytes. Construction Major components: Hitachi HD6801V0P CPU: Hitachi's version of a Motorola 6801 (enhanced instructions, 4KB ROM and 128 bytes RAM on-chip, serial, GPIO) Olivetti PU-1840 2P Printer mechanism: 280 horizontal dots, thermal paper Hitachi HA17555: a 555 timer chip, presumed to control the baud rate The plastic case has 4 parts: the top shell, bottom shell, paper compartment cover, and the back panel. The back panel contains the serial connectors and the Text/Mixed/Graphics switch. It appears the back panel and the internal space next to it was intended to be replaceable to support other interfaces (Centronics? DE-9 serial? Commodore 64?). The top shell front internally has space for 2 unused punch-outs in the plastic, each with mounting points in an internal metal bracket. Potentially, these could support addition buttons and/or lights. Wiring Adapters / Cables Here are schematics for building either a wiring adapter to connect the Aquarius printer directly to a PC's 9-pin serial port or to the Intellivision ECS. Note that similar schematics elsewhere don't allow a direct connection to a PC since they require additional adapters like null-modem cables. Aquarius Printer Adapter Cables v1.pdf
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Looking for an Atari 825, prefer to buy one located in the US. -CH-
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Tonight I was experimenting around and tried hooking up my 1040ST to my HP laser printer. When I tried printing something, it would not even recognize that it was there. I figured I'd get something even if I didn't have a correct printer driver installed. I know back in the 80s I would take my ST to work after hours and was able to use some programs to print with it there on HP laser jets. Just to be sure, I plugged the ST into my old Epson RX/FT dot matrix and it printed just fine. Anyone got any tips for getting it to work on the HP with programs like ST Writer and 1st Word? I don't really care if I get full featured printing with bold, etc. Just so it prints.
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Printer Interface The Intellivision gaming console had a computer upgrade called the Keyboard Component, which itself had a printer available for it. The Printer Interface is the rare adapter that connected that printer to the Keyboard Component. This deep-dive video covers A LOT of detail for the Printer Interface and what is currently known of its printer. It is the culmination over almost 6 months of research which included working out the schematic and pouring over tiny minutia in the various manuals. The schematic has been worked out. KC Printer Interface Schematic v1.pdf I would like thank @cmart604, @intvnut, and @decle for their help in this project.
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I have a question regarding an 825 printer. I managed to buy one. Unfortunately, it seems, there's something wrong with it - after powering on, it starts to feed the paper constantly. At first I had a though, that maybe it needed to be connected to the computer. So I got a cable to connect it with an 850 interface, which I had earlier. Seems I have the full set required for it to work. But it didn't help. I checked the paper feed switch - it's OK. Do you have any suggestions, what can be the cause? Maybe there exists a repair manual? These printers seem rare here in Poland and therefore it may be impossible to find people familiar with service of such printers. Thanks.
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Honestly it doesn't HAVE to be working, as long as it's in fair cosmetic condition. Looking for the XMM801 locally as there is no way I'll ever be paying shipping, especially with how little money I have being a jobless college student at the moment. I'm in no rush either, just thought I'd put this post out there incase anyone happened to be nearby with one!
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I have a running atari 800xl in good shape comes with ps and rf video cables. 140 OBO plus shipping. Pictured running visicalc. Thanks Brad
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Out of curiosity, I was just wondering if anyone knew of a screen printing program that would work with the Atari 1025 dot matrix printer and allow the printing of images like those drawn with the Atari CX-77 Touch Tablet in AtariArtist? I ask because I'm planning on picking up a Touch Tablet from Best Electronics at some point this summer or fall and am interested in finding a good reliable printer and software for my Atari 400 to print images drawn on the Touch Tablet with. I know there's a screen printing program for the Atari 1020 Color Plotter but I've read that there's some reliability issues with the 1020's gears cracking over time, and it would just be a lot nicer and easier if I could print things on a reliable printer that used easy to replace ink ribbons and full sized fanfold paper and had native compatibility with AtariWriter. I don't mind the AtariArtist pictures coming out as low quality dot matrix images, I'd just like some way to do reliable and easy to maintain graphics printing on my Atari 400. So, anyone know of any such screen printing programs available for the Atari 1025 Printer?
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So I have our old Canon Bubble Jet BJ-100 printer (black ink only and parallel cable) but I am trying out how to configure it properly in 1st word or any other program. in 1st word the closest I got was the Star NL-10 (ibm) although it continues to force a second blank page to print the page number on the bottom. Any help or suggestions on how to find or create a proper config file so many years later? Coconut(Kristen)
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So I pulled my 800XL and gear from storage. It'll boot up to READY prompt, play a cartridge game, and pass all self tests. However, I'm unable to use any of my peripherals (2x 810 drives - one Happy, 1010 recorder, and 1025 printer). Any help isolating the problem is greatly appreciated. Here's what I've tried so far... - CSAVE: No apparent issues trying to save "hello world" program to cassette. Beeps and starts spinning while recording. Back to READY prompt and recorder stops when done. - CLOAD: Error 138. Apparently didn't record. RETURN key properly starts recorder playing but no noises. - LIST/LOAD D1 & D2: Error 130. Nothing. Neither drive will spin when turning computer on. OPTION-on goes straight to test screen. Drive switches are set to 1 & 2, and have tried swapping them, plus each individually as D1. Note: Drives will power up with momentary busy light when computer is off. - LIST "P:": Error 138. Nothing. Printer head resets position when turning on computer. I've tried all peripherals daisy chained and individually, swapping out the IO cables with same results. I removed all socket chips from the motherboard, cleaned everything and no difference. Need a new POKEY chip? Anything else it could be? Thanks for the help guys!
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I tried searching for this topic, but I couldn’t find it. If it already exists, sorry about that! Please let me know the link, then, as I’ve had trouble finding results that were helpful to me. I’m new to the Adam, and I took a chance on a cheap auction that has no printer. I’ve seen vague references to other options, but I couldn’t find many details. For new folks and non-technical folks, can we have a list of all the known alternatives for power supplies other than the giant printer that wipes tapes when it’s turned on? I’ve heard it’s possible to make one, but how does a newbie go about doing that? Detailed info on any alternatives would be great! I can update this top post with all the different suggestions so it’s easy for new folks to find. Thanks for your help, everyone!
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Got a moving sale going on, prices negotiable, shipping will be the larger portion of the price....and Paypal only. Three 5200 joysticks - SOLD. Next is a hardly used Okimate Printer originally for the Commodore 64. I know most collectors have no use for old printers, but there is always one somewhere....the kicker on this one is the three UNOPENED ink cartridges (2 color, 1 black) so there might be some life left in them...I have no idea what to ask for it as the shipping might be hefty....if anyone has interest in it, just PM offer and we'll negotiate. It DOES power up, gives a blinking 'Ready' light, but I DO NOT have the extra serial cable and have not hooked it up to a real C64. Last, Nintendo DSI with four carts and charger, very clean screens (not mashed in touchscreen like some used ones) - $55 plus shipping. Will combine shipping and try to get you the best shipping rate possible...Thanks for looking!
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This has been packed and shipped and on its way to a new home. Texas Instruments Omni 800 Model 840 printer for free! Formerly owned (and probably used at work) by a TI employee here in Houston. It even comes with TI work product! I have not tested the printer at all so I make no claims on its work ability. Local pickup is preferred but I'm willing to ship if there is no local interest and you want to pay the shipping. It's already packed well in the original box which is 29"x23"x14" and about 32# I can't keep this around any longer and need to get rid of it. If I can't find any takers then it will sadly have to go to the recycler.
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I have a Panasonic KX-P1123 24-Pin Dot Matrix Printer for sale. The picture below was taken with the installed ribbon so the characters are not solid black. However, I bought a still wrapped ribbon and will include it. eBay looks to have enough stock of the ribbons to last some time. This printer uses a Centronics (Parallel) interface. Thanks for looking! Maybe your ASCII art be beautiful and code listings be free of bugs. http://r.ebay.com/UBlJh4
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From the album: My Game Collection
My Boxed Atari 1027 Printer, opened, but not used. -
From the album: My Game Collection
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Home 3-D Printers aren't ready for prime time just yet.
PacManPlus posted a blog entry in PacManPlus' Blog
My wife bought me this printer for Christmas: http://www.amazon.com/WER-Mostfun-Structure-Optimized-Platform/dp/B013WHD2OS/ref=cm_rdp_product The next day, I spent the entire day trying to get this thing to work. This is what I found: - Instructions are only in Chinese, although I was able to install the software from the pictures they gave - No 'step-by-step' or 'quick start' instructions on how to get something printing. - After leveling the 'bed' (I can't tell you how many times), when you start to print, the nozzle is far away from the bed - I consistently get two types of printing: 1) Where the filament doesn't stick to the bed and the nozzle drags the plastic all around, and 2) Where the filament does stick to the bed, but stretches the plastic to each new location the print head moves to. This causes the print head to leave a plastic line (that isn't supposed to be there), and when it dries the print head gets 'stuck' moving over it which throws off the entire print job. Either way, I was unsuccessful getting a complete print job. - Like mentioned above, I spent the whole day leveling the bed, trying new print jobs, even different filaments, and couldn't get one successful print. So, a few days ago I request a return and a refund. The seller, while being very nice and respectful, asked me to try things I already had numerous times. I told him that I already tried everything he asked, and I would like a refund (2nd time asking). He gets back to me asking to try a few more things. I reply that I have the unit back in the box, and I am not interested in wasting more time trying to get this to work. If the printer requires this much work to even get one (unsuccessful) print, it is unacceptable. Please give me an RMA to send this printer back. (3rd time asking). I get a reply asking to watch a video they will make. I have now gotten Amazon involved, and gave them the whole story. I have done more research, and while I have found another printer that I would like to get, I'm not so sure I will get another one. After looking at *many* reviews for other 3-D printers, the above scenario seems like the *norm*, and not the exception. I'm not interested in wasting days just trying to get a single print job to work. It looks to me like 3-D printing (for the home anyway) is not anywhere near close to being ready yet. -
What's the best printer for the Atari 8bit. Nothing special. I just print functionality. Something that still works in 2015 and reliable. I got a 800 if that means anything.
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I am looking for an Atari 820 printer in working condition. PM me if you have one.
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I found a site with specifications of a device that allows printing to a USB printer from a parallel printer port. It doesn't offer them for sale, the site has schematic, Eagle files, and ATmega16 firmware. The designer allows cloning of the device, but requests feedback for assigning serial numbers. http://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/bastelecke/Rund%20um%20den%20PC/USB2LPT/lpt2usb.en.htm It doesn't translate the protocol so the printer in question must be able to handle that used by the source, I believe the Epson FX protocol would be the best option for the Atari8 line. IBM has a webpage with a database that can be checked to see which printers support this. A similar commercial device is available for US$69.00 from http://www.lpt2usb.net/
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I have this stack of very nice printer user's manuals that I hate to toss because they are in great shape. If anybody wants these I will ship them to you FREE! EPSON: RX-80 STAR: NX-1000, NX-1000C, NX-1000 RAINBOW, NX-2400