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Found 10 results

  1. Is it possible to fasten this female into shielding like it originally was? It seems to have slipped out everytime I put in a coaxial. Otherwise it is fine. I have no clue how it originally was.
  2. I have a very old, crusty RF modulator for the VIC-20. Of course it worked at one point in its life but I cannot guarantee it still does and I no longer have any VIC-20s with which to test it. Yours for the cost of shipping, your choice: padded envelope for cheap or USPS Priority Flat Rate Small Box. The former will be a few dollars, the latter around $7.20.
  3. Hello all, long time reader, first time poster on the forums. I recently picked up a junk Coleco Telstar Combat system made in ‘77 for a couple dollars. It was pretty roached, but it’s a rather obscure system so I couldn’t pass it up. However, after getting it all cleaned up, I plugged it to my TV to test it out, but all I got was static and no signal. I tried many times turning the system off and on but mostly no signal would appear at all. Sometime a staticky signal would fade in and out, but it was very inconsistent. Once, I even got a vague image of the actually game screen to appear for a few seconds. I’m fairly confident that the video cable coming from the system itself is not the issue and I have it hooked up to a known working RF switch that works well with my Atari 2600. So, I opened the system back up, removed the RF shield, and began to adjust the RF inductors (I’m using a modern tv). ( I attached pics for reference) There appears to be 2 RF inductor adjustments under the shield, and a screw adjustment at the top right corner of the board. I started adjusting the orange (bottom) inductor but that only caused the video to go from no signal, to staticky image, back to no signal. So I tried to adjust the white (top) RF inductor, but it wouldn’t budge. Upon further inspection, I saw the slot inside this inductor had several cracks. I desoldered the inductor from the board to examine it further, but couldn’t get it to budge. After resoldering it back on, I still have the same issue, however, the static signal seems to become more and more scarce, leaving me with no signal as I fiddle more and more with the inductors. I also tried adjusting the screw adjuster to no avail, but I’m not really sure which RF adjusters I should/need to adjust. Would the cracking in the inductor be enough to inhibit the video signal completely? Is there anything else that could be causing this issue besides the inductors? I have a rather limited knowledge on electronics as I have only been attempting retro repairs for about a year and a half, so any new nuggets of knowledge are greatly appreciated! This is a really neat and rare system that I would like to have working in my collection. Feel free to ask questions if something isn’t clear. Thanks in advance! (Note: I have the same problem regardless if I’m using batteries or the power supply).
  4. Hi. I have a question related to compatabilty and modification of an Atari 5200. I know it is recommended that you purchase a 2 port system since the 4 port ones run power and rf through a proprietary prone-to-breaking switch box that is hard to replace. However, if I purchase a system I will be getting it s video modded. Does anyone know if the modification bypasses this switchbox (I know there is a power jack mod too), which would negate any issues and actually make the 4 port a superior option? Thanks
  5. IMG_1069.MOV I pulled out my old 800xl. It seems to work but there is interference in the RF output. It’s pops and clicks with lines like an old VHS tracking disorder. The monitor output has never worked on this machine. The hole in the case isn’t even large enough to fit the monitor to RCA cable. I have tried many different RF cables, switch boxes, and adapters and different monitors and TVs. What do you guys think? Would it be the power supply or the graphics chip? Should I open her up and reseat chips or something? Or does it seemed trashed? I’m trying to upload a video but it doesn’t seem to work IMG_1069.MOV
  6. Hey Everyone, I am currently trying to research and write an article for Hardcore Gaming 101 about Gulkave for the SG-1000/ColecoVision. I have a question though. At the bottom of the screen, there is a long power-up bar with squares. The power-ups come in 1, 3, or 5. Collecting these moves you up that many squares. I am confused as to what happens when that power-up bar fills up and resets. P.S. Is there anyway to take screen captures from an rf video game system? SG-1000 is RF only, and becuase it's so rare, I don't want to get it modded. Also, HG101 articles require lots of screenshots, so this is essential. Any help would be appreciated.
  7. Hey guys, so a few weeks ago I purchased an "as-is" ColecoVision off eBay. The graphics were all garbled on the display, so I assumed it was either a power or video RAM problem. Being a very novice electronics tinkerer, I figured I could give a go at repairing the console. After replacing the power switch, verifying the power supply was providing the appropriate voltages, replacing the video RAM with the 5v RAM mod, and repairing some broken traces on the RAM bus I got functioning video! However, I am not getting any audio out of the Coleco. I next wired an RCA cord to Pins 7 and 8 on the audio chip and confirmed it is outputting audio. Suspecting a broken trace somewhere between the audio chip and the RF modulator (due to my experience with the memory bus) I used my multimeter to follow the signal from Pin 7 (audio out) along the various hops on the board. Confirming no break between pin 7 and the last point before entering the RF modulator, I removed the metal box from around the modulator, separated the daughterboard from the modulator, and reconnected the board with wires so I may explore inside it. I have found no broken trace or component between pin 7 and C88. The only symptoms I now have are the staticy audio (and no game audio as far as I know), and the video signal occassionaly gives out. I'm stumped as to what the possible issues could be. I've made a YouTube video of the issue in hopes of getting some interesting leads from those on this forum. That video may be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ME-nVOafMpA Thank you for any time and advice provided for this.
  8. Hi @ all, i'm new to atari 28 years old and my first console was a SEGA Master System 2. Atari 2600 was a few years before my time;) but i wanted to give it a try and have some retro fun. So i bought a big package containing a woodgrain light sixer, a Junior, 8 controllers and 35 games. So far so good... I connected the antenna cable of the Junior to my television (modern LG Flatscreen) and it worked perfectly. Colors and sound were all right. But the light sixer seems to have some problems. As far as i know they both use RF and both should output the same picture to my tv. But the light sixer just gives a bad picture with totally wrong colors (always the same way wrong.... see Pictures) or just Grey (and even that very poor). I tríed it on different channels (switch A-B on the console and different settings on the tv) and i even tried it on an old TV (also see pictures) Had anyone this problems too? Is something broken? What could it be? Can it be repaierd? I planned to do a AV Mod. I already ordered this kit (still waiting for it) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Atari-2600-7800-A-V-Composite-Video-Mod-Kit-NTSC-PAL-DIY-/171149875461?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d953d905 Could this mod help with the picture even if it's that bad rigjt now? I'm unsure what to do because the light sixer should already output the same Picture as the Junior... and if i do this mod and it's still the same the broken light sixer is even less worth and i put the work into it for nothing Any idears? EDIT: i only got one PSU with both consoles... no idear if it could make a difference... it's one like this http://www.konsolenkost.de/images/produkte/i90/9030262.jpg http://www.konsolenkost.de/images/produkte/i90/9030262-1.jpg EDIT: as far as i know my light sixer should be PAL. At least the seller told me that. Sadly there's no sicker on the back... how can i find out if the light sixer is PAL or NTSC? Any internal part that Shows this clear? If the console is NTSC i contact the seller and want my Money back.
  9. Hello! I'm having a problem with my Colecovision the past couple of days. It's been working great for a couple years now. It was working fine just a couple days ago, but suddenly now it only displays mostly static on the screen when I turn it on. There is no visual of any game/startup screen. The attached pic shows the pattern of static I see. Sorry, it's sideways. The top quarter of the tv is plain black, but then there's like a reddish line and the rest is static (although the bottom quarter seems yellowish). I've tried using different RF Adapters and cables and it's the same problem (maybe the colours a little less noticeable, but same issue). For now, I'm just using a direct cable connection to the tv. I've already taken apart the power switch to clean the contacts on its top and bottom halves. No change. Another piece of info. I recently checked out the voltage readings reaching the main board from the power supply. When the power is off: Blue: -4.6 V White: 4.75 V Red: 9.7 V --Wait, isn't that a bit far off? Then I turn the power on and here are the readings: Blue: -4.6 V (same as before) White: 4.75 V (same as before) Red: 6.4 V -- Is this supposed to happen when the power is turned on?? I'm worried that the problem could be the RF Modulator. But those power supply readings seem strange, but I don't know why the system would work fine for years and then suddenly this would be the problem. Anyway, based on this info, and the picture attached, does anyone have any suggestions/ideas of the problem and how to fix? Thanks, all.
  10. Can the RF box be disabled by cutting the four pins that connect to its PCB? I'd like to disable RF without physically removing it.
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