FABombjoy Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Pretty much anything that's a light or pastel color comes out very dim, no matter the game. And the problem persists whether the console is connected to an LCD or CRT TV. I made 2 changes to mine that may fix this problem. I just installed my first board tonight in a 4-switch & found things were too bright on s-video & composite. Color Bar Generator confirmed that the first 3 bars on the greyscale screen were the same intensity which kills off a lot of detail. The fixes for s-video were: Remove 75 ohm resistor that runs above the FMS6400 Increase resistance on 75 ohm to the right of FMS6400 to about 150ohms I haven't messed with the composite side but I'll bet it's about the same. Anyway, after these two changes, the s-video appears spot-on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 Pretty much anything that's a light or pastel color comes out very dim, no matter the game. And the problem persists whether the console is connected to an LCD or CRT TV. I made 2 changes to mine that may fix this problem. I just installed my first board tonight in a 4-switch & found things were too bright on s-video & composite. Color Bar Generator confirmed that the first 3 bars on the greyscale screen were the same intensity which kills off a lot of detail. The fixes for s-video were: Remove 75 ohm resistor that runs above the FMS6400 Increase resistance on 75 ohm to the right of FMS6400 to about 150ohms I haven't messed with the composite side but I'll bet it's about the same. Anyway, after these two changes, the s-video appears spot-on. I will look into this. Thanks for the suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FABombjoy Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 (edited) I'm wondering if ASEL on the FMS6400 should be low. Does luma really need the 6dB gain? How does it look without the above changes, but with ASEL tied low? I would think this would be ideal as the FMS chip runs hot; lowering the gain should cool it off a bit. I should have some time tonight to do a few more experiments. Edited April 22, 2009 by FABombjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwilkson Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 I'm wondering if ASEL on the FMS6400 should be low. Does luma really need the 6dB gain? How does it look without the above changes, but with ASEL tied low? I would think this would be ideal as the FMS chip runs hot; lowering the gain should cool it off a bit. I should have some time tonight to do a few more experiments. Assuming 75 Ohm outputs, the output voltage gets divided by 2 when loaded by a standard 75 Ohm video input. That's why the 6dB option exists. What's the peak-to-peak voltage on your FMS inputs Longhorn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 (edited) I have ran it low before and the image was way to dark. What's the peak-to-peak voltage on your FMS inputs Longhorn? I will have to check later when I get home. Edited April 22, 2009 by Longhorn Engineer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fangorn81 Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Not trying to derail the conversation, but I still am not getting anything...I looked at Ben Heck's page, and it looked like he wired his up differently...I am going to take pics of my board when I get home and post them so everyone can see exactly what I am talking about. Also, I am gonna take it to my friends house and try it on his TV, though if I can't get it to work with my TV, it will be a huge bummer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fangorn81 Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 (edited) Ok, this is ungodly blurry, but all I have right now is my phone camera. The Red is actually not attached at the moment, but had been on pin 20 of the TIA. And the pins connected Grey, White, Orange and Brown wires are bent up. Edited April 23, 2009 by Fangorn81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 Ok, this is ungodly blurry, but all I have right now is my phone camera. The Red is actually not attached at the moment, but had been on pin 20 of the TIA. And the pins connected Grey, White, Orange and Brown wires are bent up. Looks like its attached correctly. When you those pins you dont need to cut the leads on the resistors. Make sure none of the wires are connected or bridged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frotz Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 Has anyone heard from Longhorn lately? I'm wondering when my modboards will arrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 Sorry everyone last week of school. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vectorman0 Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 I tried to do this mod on a second 2600 last night and I have spent three hours trying to troubleshoot it. Audio works 100%, but there is no video (just a fast flicker when powering on). I tried two separate video mod boards, two TIA's, 2 s-video jacks, 2 separate 2600 motherboards. I tested the wires for continuity, and tested for bridged points. I tried on different TV's with different video cables too, and different power supplies. They system works fine without the mod installed using RF output. Maybe I messed up both mod boards, or I am blind and soldered a couple wires backwards? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fangorn81 Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 That is the same problem I have had, and have found no solution so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prodos8 Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 I've read or been told not to remove the pins on the TIA chip from the motherboard to make the connections. Something to do with them being open-collector or something. YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted May 14, 2009 Author Share Posted May 14, 2009 Sorry about the lack of emails and updates fellas. I have 3 more finals to go. I will be done on Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ransom Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 Sorry about the lack of emails and updates fellas. I have 3 more finals to go. I will be done on Sunday. Good luck on 'em! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tremoloman2006 Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 (edited) nm Edited May 17, 2009 by tremoloman2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vectorman0 Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 I've read or been told not to remove the pins on the TIA chip from the motherboard to make the connections. Something to do with them being open-collector or something. YMMV. This was the problem, thank you! I removed all of the wires from the TIA and did everything by this guide and it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted May 18, 2009 Author Share Posted May 18, 2009 Ok finals went fairly well. I am waiting on some PCBs to arrive. Should arrive here sometime next week. Then all orders placed will be filled. Sorry about the wait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fangorn81 Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 I can't follow the guide because the board isn't the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted May 19, 2009 Author Share Posted May 19, 2009 I can't follow the guide because the board isn't the same? Hey Fangorn you can attach the PCB directly to the TIA legs. The PCB is labeled on which wire goes to which pin. Make sure all pins stay connected to the board except pins 6 and 9 (Blank and Color) and pins 12 and 13 (Sound). Those 4 pins have to be lifted. The only reason the guides show cutting resister leads is that is allot easier then cutting TIA leads. If you have a multimeter you can find the resister pinout for yourself and email it to me so I can add it to the guide. \ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepax Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 I can't wait to buy the PCB! However, it depends on the the PAL VCS compatibility report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted May 27, 2009 Author Share Posted May 27, 2009 Ok all orders placed and paid for at this point have been filled. This includes all PCBs, Unassembled, Assembled and Modded Ataris. They will ship tomorrow (5/27/09) afternoon. Will get to work ASAP on the PAL version. Very sorry to our brothers across the pond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 All orders have been shipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Engineer Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 Ok for all future orders please direct to this site. http://www.longhornengineer.com/Videomods/Videomods I have a paypal cart system setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InactiveX Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Will get to work ASAP on the PAL version. Very sorry to our brothers across the pond Very pleased to hear it! Am following the PAL progress with eager attention. Thanks LE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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