1200XL PBI EXTENDER BOARD PRODUCTION RUN: ORDER HERE!

[MEtalGuy66]

I actually prefer the MIO on the side.. Its much more convenient, considering that the 1200XL is so deep already. It puts the MIo power switch right up front, and the SCSI cable straight out the back...

 

Both my 1200XLs have 130XE motherboards, which puts the MIO directly behind the machine.. I like to use REAL (commodore/magnavox) monitors... And I like to have my keyboard centered in front of the monitor.. You gotta have a DAMN DEEP table surface to do that with a 1200XL and an MIO setup out the back of it..

 

The "side setup" works out great because your hardisk enclosure ends up being right next to (to the left) the monitor, the MIO right next to the 1200XL... Floppy drives & SIO devices to the right of the monitor..

 

 

As far as supporting the board, heres what I reccomend:

 

Get a piece of 1/4" Lexan and cut a piece about 18" x 4".... Get two 1" threaded standoffs from your hardware/electronics parts supplier... Drill two holes on one end of the piece of lexan to line up with the holes in the 1200XL-PBI board, and screw the standoffs into those holes in the lexan.. Then situate the lexan so that it goes under the 1200XL case, and screw two screws through the 1200XL-PBI board holes, into the standoffs...

 

This arrangement should not only provide support when inserting a cartridge (by keeping the board from flexing downwards), but also when removing a cartridge (by keeping the board from flexing upwards.)

[tuf]

So has anyone made a case or mounted standoffs to their PBI extender yet?

[tuf]

MG: Could you throw together some instructions on adding a switch to disable the internal 1200 mod, just so we could still use the 1200xl w/o the PBI extender installed? I assume it mostly involves patching around the cut trace, but I'm not 100%

[Tempest]

MG: Could you throw together some instructions on adding a switch to disable the internal 1200 mod, just so we could still use the 1200xl w/o the PBI extender installed? I assume it mostly involves patching around the cut trace, but I'm not 100%

Any word on this? I think it would be a nice mod to do especially since I already have the switch free.

 

Tempest

[+warerat]

MG: Could you throw together some instructions on adding a switch to disable the internal 1200 mod, just so we could still use the 1200xl w/o the PBI extender installed? I assume it mostly involves patching around the cut trace, but I'm not 100%

Any word on this? I think it would be a nice mod to do especially since I already have the switch free.

 

Tempest

 

Pretty easy, but it is important to make sure the ribbon cable is disconnected when you switch back to stock mode (you'll have two signals driving the same line if you don't-- bad).

 

If you have a switch with three lugs (one lug is common to both positions):

 

First, disconnect the wire from the ribbon cable that goes to U14 pin 16.

 

O ---- from U11 pin 1

 

O ---- to U14 pin 16 (this is the common)

 

O ---- from ribbon cable that used to go to U14 pin 16 that you desoldered.

[Tempest]

MG: Could you throw together some instructions on adding a switch to disable the internal 1200 mod, just so we could still use the 1200xl w/o the PBI extender installed? I assume it mostly involves patching around the cut trace, but I'm not 100%

Any word on this? I think it would be a nice mod to do especially since I already have the switch free.

 

Tempest

 

Pretty easy, but it is important to make sure the ribbon cable is disconnected when you switch back to stock mode (you'll have two signals driving the same line if you don't-- bad).

 

If you have a switch with three lugs (one lug is common to both positions):

 

First, disconnect the wire from the ribbon cable that goes to U14 pin 16.

 

O ---- from U11 pin 1

 

O ---- to U14 pin 16 (this is the common)

 

O ---- from ribbon cable that used to go to U14 pin 16 that you desoldered.

Oh cool, that's not too hard. Now I'll have two switches that can take my modded 1200XL back to a stock 1200XL (turning off the memory upgrade and the PBI upgrade).

 

Tempest

[+Larry]

OK, using Ken's quote, I found the original thread.

 

For those interested, here's how I made my support/spacer for the 1200XL pbi/cart extender (and of course, a couple of pics):

 

I had no 1/4" Lexan laying around, nor the correct standoffs, so I made mine from 1/4" Poplar. IMO, easier to work with, anyway.

 

For my 1200XL, the correct height of the dowels is 1-1/4" + 1/4" to allow the dowels to go completely through the base. The dowels are glued in and I used some miniature brass screws to secure the PCB to the dowels. On my 1200XL, this lines the PCB up perfectly to the cart jack opening -- slides right in.

 

There is one caveat about the 1/4" thickness of the base -- I had to add some (apx.) 1/8" small rubber feet to the bottom of the original Atari feet so that the computer rests on its feet rather than on the wood base. There is a very small clearance -- maybe .030" (< 1mm).

 

Left to do -- finish sand and paint. Of course, some folks may like a plastic/metal support better, but this one is fine for me and is rock-solid.

 

If you decide to make some type of support, remember to wear eye protection and watch those fingers, especially if using any power equipment!

 

BTW, my extender is not wired to the Atari. On this XL I will not be using a HD. Pictures below...

 

-Larry

 

 

 

 

As far as supporting the board, heres what I reccomend:

 

Get a piece of 1/4" Lexan and cut a piece about 18" x 4".... Get two 1" threaded standoffs from your hardware/electronics parts supplier... Drill two holes on one end of the piece of lexan to line up with the holes in the 1200XL-PBI board, and screw the standoffs into those holes in the lexan.. Then situate the lexan so that it goes under the 1200XL case, and screw two screws through the 1200XL-PBI board holes, into the standoffs...

 

This arrangement should not only provide support when inserting a cartridge (by keeping the board from flexing downwards), but also when removing a cartridge (by keeping the board from flexing upwards.)

[tregare]

Yeah Im not sure what percentage they take.. Im just trying not to come up short, because I really am "in a hole" financially at the moment..

I can guarantee any money I get for these will be used appropriately, but it would be a really bad thing (for me) if I had to end up spending extra funds "out of pocket"...

I think $5.00 will more than cover it.

I dont know how accurate this is, but check it out: http://ppcalc.com/

 

I know that feeling.

[+bob1200xl]

Very nice. Looks just like wood!

 

If not a HD, what can you run without the flat cable?

 

Bob

 

 

 

OK, using Ken's quote, I found the original thread.

 

For those interested, here's how I made my support/spacer for the 1200XL pbi/cart extender (and of course, a couple of pics):

 

I had no 1/4" Lexan laying around, nor the correct standoffs, so I made mine from 1/4" Poplar. IMO, easier to work with, anyway.

 

For my 1200XL, the correct height of the dowels is 1-1/4" + 1/4" to allow the dowels to go completely through the base. The dowels are glued in and I used some miniature brass screws to secure the PCB to the dowels. On my 1200XL, this lines the PCB up perfectly to the cart jack opening -- slides right in.

 

There is one caveat about the 1/4" thickness of the base -- I had to add some (apx.) 1/8" small rubber feet to the bottom of the original Atari feet so that the computer rests on its feet rather than on the wood base. There is a very small clearance -- maybe .030" (< 1mm).

 

Left to do -- finish sand and paint. Of course, some folks may like a plastic/metal support better, but this one is fine for me and is rock-solid.

 

If you decide to make some type of support, remember to wear eye protection and watch those fingers, especially if using any power equipment!

 

BTW, my extender is not wired to the Atari. On this XL I will not be using a HD. Pictures below...

 

-Larry

 

 

 

 

As far as supporting the board, heres what I reccomend:

 

Get a piece of 1/4" Lexan and cut a piece about 18" x 4".... Get two 1" threaded standoffs from your hardware/electronics parts supplier... Drill two holes on one end of the piece of lexan to line up with the holes in the 1200XL-PBI board, and screw the standoffs into those holes in the lexan.. Then situate the lexan so that it goes under the 1200XL case, and screw two screws through the 1200XL-PBI board holes, into the standoffs...

 

This arrangement should not only provide support when inserting a cartridge (by keeping the board from flexing downwards), but also when removing a cartridge (by keeping the board from flexing upwards.)

[+Larry]

I use APE as my primary I/O device. At UltraSpeed + no mechanical latency, it's still quite good. A HD would be nicer, but maybe later. A MyIDE flash cart seems like the most likely candidate. The primary advantage to me (for now) is having two vertical cartridge slots, because I have quite a few carts that will not go into the XL cart bay or must be "crammed." OSS carts, some flash carts, etc.

 

-Larry

 

 

Very nice. Looks just like wood!

 

If not a HD, what can you run without the flat cable?

 

Bob

[+bob1200xl]

Oh... Us 1200XL users do have well developed left hands.

 

Maybe someone will fix that.

 

Bob

 

 

 

I use APE as my primary I/O device. At UltraSpeed + no mechanical latency, it's still quite good. A HD would be nicer, but maybe later. A MyIDE flash cart seems like the most likely candidate. The primary advantage to me (for now) is having two vertical cartridge slots, because I have quite a few carts that will not go into the XL cart bay or must be "crammed." OSS carts, some flash carts, etc.

 

-Larry

 

 

Very nice. Looks just like wood!

 

If not a HD, what can you run without the flat cable?

 

Bob

[Koji77]

if I have the Atarimax 32- in one I can get this upgrade??

[+Guitarman]

if I have the Atarimax 32- in one I can get this upgrade??

 

If you purchased the 1200XL version of the 32in1, yes, this board will work. Since the 1200XL version of the 32in1 comes with the correct MMU and the internal basic upgrade, the PBI extension board can be installed.

[Tempest]

Sorry for the necrobump, but I'm having a problem with my PBI mod. I had Bob mod my 1200XL so I didn't have to have the PBI board always plugged in or that little jumper. He wired up a switch for me so I could turn it off and on (jumper/no jumper basically). To quote Bob:

 

When the PBI card is not running, you have to short out the connector in order to use the system. Now, the switch does that for you - DOWN to short the pins - UP to use the PBI card.

 

 

This past weekend I took the board out to clean the case and noticed that a wire had come loose from the switch so now the PBI mod is always on. Unfortunately I have absolutely no idea where this wire was originally soldered so I need some help. Here's what I do know:

 

1. The switch consisted of two wires (red and white) that connected to the underside of the motherboard where the PBI mod was done.

2. The red wire has come loose on the bottom of the board

3. The red and white wires were braided together so the red wire must have been attached somewhat near the white wire.

4. The white wire is still attached (see pictures)

5. I don't think there was ever a third wire attached to the switch (there are no other loose wires that could go to it)

 

If anyone has ANY idea on where this wire could have gone I'd be eternally grateful. I can try and provide more info if needed.

 

Here are the pictures of the underside:

 

http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/1200xl1.jpg

http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/1200xl2.jpg

http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/1200xl3.jpg

[MEtalGuy66]

Well, since one wire is clearly still hooked to U14 pin 16, the other one needs to go to U11 pin 1 (or some trace that has continuity to U11 pin 1 and is within reach of that wire).

 

If you can't figure it out based on this, it's probably best to ask Bob. I don't have a 1200Xl apart at the moment to look or I'd make a recommendation for an exact solder point.

 

Good Luck.

[Tempest]

That's the problem, I'm not sure where that spot might be. It's obviously not going directly to that pin, but I suppose I could untwist the wire and make it go there. Which pin is pin 1 (left or right side of the top)?

 

Do you think the switch ever had a third wire connected?

 

Here are some more pictures showing the entire board:

 

http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/1200xl4.jpg

http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/1200xl5.jpg

http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/1200xl6.jpg

http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/1200xl7.jpg

http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/1200xl8.jpg

http://www.atariprotos.com/temp/1200xl9.jpg

[Tempest]

Holy crap that was all it is. I took the disconnected wire and touched it to pin 1 of U11 and bam! it came up. Now I just need to do a quick solder job and I should be all set.

[Tempest]

Looks like I spoke too soon. It works now, but it's rather temperamental. Sometimes it will come up and another times it will show me some funny scrambled graphics pattern with noise coming from the speakers (like a bad connection on a 2600 game). I'm really not sure what's going on. Everything is as it should be, the only thing that changed is that I soldered the red wire to pin 1 of U11 (the solder point should be good, no bridges or anything like that). I just don't get it.

[Tempest]

And... I've solved the issue, at least I think. I believe my cartridge port is a bit wonky so after taking out and inserting the cartridge again I can consistently get the game to come up. I don't want to jinx this, but I think the problem is solved. Of course this doesn't explain why it wasn't coming up consistently with no cartridge installed, so there may still be another issue I need to deal with. I'll do some stress testing tonight and see if I can reproduce the issue.

 

EDIT: And it's doing it again. I guess it's not the cartridge port after all, or at least not all the issue.

[MEtalGuy66]

No there never was 3 wires.. Bob's version of the switch hack is just a simpler one than Warerat's.

 

1. Make sure all the wires are still connected

2. Clean the contacts on the tongue of the adaptor with a pencil eraser until it's nice & shiny copper, followed by some isopropyl alchohol to remove any pencil eraser residue..

3. Re-insert and try again.

[Tempest]

I sent it to Bob to take a look. There's something fishy going on. It's like the PBI board isn't being grounded/shorted all the time and it's only by random chance that I get the right signal and everything starts up properly. Could be a loose wire I suppose. Then again I was having a similar problem before I broke the switch, it's just much worse now.