Lendorien Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 (edited) IMO this topic is pointless, because: A) anyone who knows enough to properly light an LED or light bulb, should be knowledgeable enough to figure out for himself how to wire it. This is just about the most basic level of electronics understanding that there is. and B) anyone who does NOT know enough to properly light an LED or light bulb, should not be messing around with the insides of his console -- even with a schematic diagram (which he probably wouldn't understand anyway). That's a pretty snobby answer, and certainly is not helpful in any way. I have RGB-modded several of my consoles (including my NES, which is the most difficult to do) and I would not add an LED mod to one of my systems without having a diagram or some instructions. Having an understanding of electronics and knowing how to solder up something by following a schematic are two totally different things. I can use a soldering iron just fine and can read electronics schematics, but that doesn't mean that I can design a circuit, no matter how simple. The guy was just asking for some simple information, and was polite about it even in the face of some rather douchey behavior. If you aren't going to help him, maybe laying off of the "add reply" button would be better than scaring away a forum newb. Posts like all three of yours in this thread do nothing to welcome a new member into the community. I don't care how long you've been around or what you've contributed to the scene. AA is better than other forums because we don't treat people like shit based on their post count or level of experience with things. Pretty sad that the most helpful comment in this thread was made by someone with zero prior posts. Chris Frankly, when it comes to A.J. Franzman, this behavior is fairly typical. And the sad thing is people often defend him on the rare occasion he's called on it. I too have had my run-in with this sort of condescending trollish behavior from him. I'm glad others were willing to call a duck a duck in this case. New members who ask completely legitimate questions and contribute in a positive way should not be treated this way. Edited January 21, 2011 by Lendorien Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowCoder Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Frankly, when it comes to A.J. Franzman, this behavior is fairly typical. And the sad thing is people often defend him on the rare occasion he's called on it. I too have had my run-in with this sort of condescending trollish behavior from him. I'm glad others were willing to call a duck a duck in this case. New members who ask completely legitimate questions and contribute in a positive way should not be treated this way. I'm not talking for or against Mr. Franzman, though I actually do have some respect for him. He's obviously a very intelligent person, and I think he does provide positively to the community. If you've ever worked in a highly technical field, you'll find a lot of technically inclined folks who appear to be wired differently, in such a way as they appear to lack in social prowess. Having friends who are like that, I can tell you they're not always being snobbish or have a "better than you" attitude. They just convey their information in a very short way, leaving out emotion, and often you get their true thoughts, rather that a veiled impression. Long ago I was told I appear to have that same "better than you" attitude, and it actually hurt to be told that, because that's obviously not how I feel inside, and I don't want others to feel that way about me. I try to be helpful as much as possible. I worked to change the way I presented my attitude. But not everyone will be willing to do that, as they may feel if you don't like them the way they are, that's your problem, and not theirs. As I said earlier, I'm not speaking for Mr. Franzman, but I can't count him out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osbo Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 I did the math using a 9V / 500 mA power supply. Taking the power straight from the source, you'll need a 1.5K Ohm resistor and an LED. It takes about 1.7 V to lit an LCD. Feel free to chip in, I don't have an atari any more to test this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pioneer4x4 Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 I actually considered doing 2 things, start off by assuming you have a indicator for the atari being on that works, then one day it doesn't light up, and the atari won't work. I am going to either use a bicolor LED or 2 LEDs to indicate A> Power supply connected and functioning. 2> Atari turned on and power applied to it's guts. I think it is more likely a power supply will give up the ghost than the Atari. And for calculating the size of a resistor, remember you can always use a higher value, the LED will run fine at less current, just be a little dimmer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osbo Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 (edited) I actually considered doing 2 things, start off by assuming you have a indicator for the atari being on that works, then one day it doesn't light up, and the atari won't work. I am going to either use a bicolor LED or 2 LEDs to indicate A> Power supply connected and functioning. 2> Atari turned on and power applied to it's guts. I think it is more likely a power supply will give up the ghost than the Atari. And for calculating the size of a resistor, remember you can always use a higher value, the LED will run fine at less current, just be a little dimmer. Yeah, like I said, I don't have an Atari handy to measure the voltage coming out of the voltage regulator. This mod will just lit up when you connect the power supply to the wall socket. I guess I could use the voltage coming out of the on/off switch too. Dang, I need an Atari for this, lol Edited January 22, 2011 by Osbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigO Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 (edited) Yeah, like I said, I don't have an Atari handy to measure the voltage coming out of the voltage regulator. This mod will just lit up when you connect the power supply to the wall socket. I guess I could use the voltage coming out of the on/off switch too. Dang, I need an Atari for this, lol The voltage coming out of the regulator is 5 volts. Speaking of going big on the resistor as Pioneer was: I'd probably use 12 volts (or more?) when calculating for driving the LED from the otherwise unloaded power supply. Being unregulated, that power supply can (will) put out more than 9 volts. The 9 volt rating is the expected output voltage when the unit is supplying its maximum rated current. One LED won't draw that much current. Edited January 22, 2011 by BigO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osbo Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 Yeah, I made a mistake in the other circuit, the 1.5K was sucking way too much current, I replaced it with a 560 Ohm, and it worked (gotta love multisim) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzman66 Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 Speaking of going big on the resistor as Pioneer was: I'd probably use 12 volts (or more?) when calculating for driving the LED from the otherwise unloaded power supply. Being unregulated, that power supply can (will) put out more than 9 volts. The 9 volt rating is the expected output voltage when the unit is supplying its maximum rated current. One LED won't draw that much current. Yep, you are right on that! Atari power supplies I have tested without a load are putting anywhere between 13 to 15V out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigO Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 (edited) Yeah, I made a mistake in the other circuit, the 1.5K was sucking way too much current, I replaced it with a 560 Ohm, and it worked (gotta love multisim) The 1.5K would have been showing a higher voltage drop (XMM1), but the circuit should be drawing more current with 560 ohms (through XMM3).The voltage drop across the LED (XMM2) should remain relatively constant. Edited January 22, 2011 by BigO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesk Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 Doing this will void your warranty. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osbo Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 In the second one, I used the voltage out of the voltage regulator (5 volts) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syntaxerror999 Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 After ten years of forum threads like "What's your favorite game?" and "What power adapter do I need?" the community jumps on a guy with a legitimate question? He probably thought it would be easier to see if anyone already had instructions for this project rather than try to figure out for himself how to wire it, what size resistor to use, etc. Sad people need to bash others to make themselves feel better... I know thats a little "after school special", but its the truth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyChris Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 I was looking on information on how to to this the right way too. Here's something I fould on the web. http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/led-guide/ - Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moving2 Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 (edited) Does this really help? Because this is about what you asked for. A.J.- late to the thread, obviously, but for people reading this thread for future reference: thanks for the schematic! Since you are attempting to be abundantly helpful in providing what the OP was asking for, perhaps you can enlighten us as to: 1. specifically how you would recommend an LED be connected in the schematic you posted, as well as type of LED to look for 2. recommended resistor value and connection in schematic It is my understanding that the *location of the LED and resistor* in the schematic was the information the OP was seeking, and not simply a schematic, but I would be interested to hear your explanation as to how your posting of a schematic without this information was supposed to answer the OP's question. Do tell. Edited September 22, 2012 by moving2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow460 Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 What I saw in the schematic was where a typical lamp was connected to ground between the power switch and the 7805. If that's the case, it might have either been added to the schematic after the Woody shipped or it might simply have been left off the Woody after the schematic was drawn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moving2 Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 shadow460- can you point out the part of the schematic you are referring to? I am used to seeing this as an LED schematic symbol: ...and, because the LED obviously does not exist on a stock unit, is the associated resistor in the schematic also not present on the 2600? What I saw in the schematic was where a typical lamp was connected to ground between the power switch and the 7805. If that's the case, it might have either been added to the schematic after the Woody shipped or it might simply have been left off the Woody after the schematic was drawn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadow460 Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 (edited) To the right of the power switch, there's a circuit that branches off and has a symbol with a loop in a circle, then goes to ground. The loop in a circle is a schematic symbol for a standard incandescent lamp. The 7805 is a couple of steps down the line from this branch. According to that schematic, they'd have used a small "grain of wheat" sized bulb with a colored lens as a power on light instead of using an LED. The incandescent lamp may not have required a resistor in series with it. Edited September 23, 2012 by shadow460 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringfellow Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 If I were to put in a power light I thing I would use something like on the top of this page: http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d132_lighted_toggle_switches.html That way no case mod is needed and it looks pretty stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFL Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Those LED toggle switches look pretty cool. Nice find. I was wondering what would happen if you hooked up, say, a red LED from Maplins with no resistor. Would it just drain as much power as it liked until it blew something in the console or would it overload the PSU itself? Just curious as from an ignorant POV it doesn't seem like just sticking an LED to your power switch would make much difference to the system... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pioneer4x4 Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 It would burn out. There are L.E.D.s with built in resistors, primarily for 12v in automotive uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HatefulGravey Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 I have wondered about this myself in the past. I'm glad I never asked because having to ask a question seems to be instant proof that you aren't smart enough for the answer. I know it can be done because I have seen it done. That said I clearly have no idea how it is done because I haven't done it. There are members here that have done it, your best bet it going to be getting one of them to answer this question. I'm kind of amazed no one has posted a youtube video on this yet. The members here are normally pretty good to do that. We must be having a Jaguar forum kind of day. EDIT: Here, I did you a solid. This guy is a member here that I am planning to get to do some work for me when I have the extra cash. http://www.game-tech.us/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/HomePage He does the work for you and cheap. You can have all kinds of things done while you are at it. This is why I haven't had the work done yet, the original work I wanted got more added to it when I saw all the things he can do for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFL Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Thanks for the answers. So, it would just burn out the LED and not harm the system? Would the burn out happen instantly (like a fuse) or would it happen over time. Thanks for putting my curiousity to rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pioneer4x4 Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Probably instantly,and VERY brightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snstay Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 I was looking on information on how to to this the right way too. Here's something I fould on the web. http://www.vintagega....com/led-guide/ - Chris This is the one i used and it worked out perfectly for me. And i feel your pain i asked on NA about putting led lights in my nes and got trated like it was the most rediculous thing they have ever heard of. So after multiple put down posts i just dug in and figured it out myself and it looks fantastic. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nukeshed Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 (edited) Does this really help? Because this is about what you asked for. Wait, is it just me, or is there no LED in that schematic, meaning its not what was asked for? (I realize he said 'like', but as long as we are stopping the dissemination of information...) Correct me if I am wrong, I don't read schematics often enough. Edited September 25, 2012 by nukeshed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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