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willyvmm

1050 Happy Warp with LED display (v3?)

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Hey.

Some weeks ago i got a 1050 drive with LED display mounted on front panel.
I've foud that is an early (?) version of Happy Warp :) , and I decided to recreate the schematic.

You can find the oryginal topic, pictures, rom, schematic etc here: [url="http://www.atari.org.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?id=11300"]http://www.atari.org...ic.php?id=11300[/url]

The eprom is marked [color=#008000][b]HAPPY 3[/b][/color]

Can anyone recognize this version?


[attachment=295820:HWv3-05.jpg]

[attachment=295824:HWv3-07.jpg]

[attachment=295821:HWv3-06.jpg]

[attachment=295822:HWv3-11.jpg]

[attachment=295823:happywarp_v3.png]

eprom: [attachment=295825:hw_V3.bin]


The drive is not working, someone was trying to repair it but with no luck, now is my turn :D Edited by willyvmm

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Looks more like a happy clone, I doubt its from Mr Adams himself and more likely a bodge made by a user, the soldering is extreme to say the least ;)

Would be good to get a dump of the eprom so differences could be seen.

My bet as said is its like The Lazer boards were (only they were better looking than that) and merely Happy clones.

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I forgot to attach the eprom. Its now at the end of first post.

It is a clone, no doubt.
I compared this version to schematic v6 and v7, and there is many differences, as well as many errors in design (floating, unconnected pins etc)

There are pictures of similar happy (clone) on AA here: [url="http://atariage.com/forums/topic/205788-atari-1050-with-happy-board-not-working-correctly/"]http://atariage.com/forums/topic/205788-atari-1050-with-happy-board-not-working-correctly/[/url]
The main difference is 1 ram (8k*8) chip instead of 3 (2k*8).

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Interesting find!

Some time ago I compared the different Happy (+clone) ROMs: [url="http://www.abbuc.de/community/forum/viewtopic.php?p=23920#p23920"]http://www.abbuc.de/...?p=23920#p23920[/url]

Your dump falls into the category of "patched happy clones", but the exact origin of these modifications is currently unknown. The happy code was patched and contains some 7-segment display code, some clones also had unpopulated space on the PCB, most likely for (optional?) 7-segment LED drivers/latches.

The dump is differrent to the ones I had seen before, the closest match is the one I referred to as "warpguus.rom" (your ROM and warpguus.rom differ in 31 bytes). Most of the differing bytes are different JSR/JMP locations. At $FD7A warpguus contains a JSR to $FDD1, whereas your dump doesn't contain this JSR and the ROM at $FDD1 is blank (zero bytes).

It's hard to tell if your dump predates warpguus, but the missing code at $FDD1 could be an indication for that.

so long,

Hias

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Would it be possible to recreate - given generic spares? Maybe program a modern micro-controller to do the job of any bespoke ICs?

Incidentally, rough as it is - probably about my soldering quality! - I like this thing for some reason. It gets the job done and at least tries to look pretty doing it! Edited by morelenmir

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[color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
It's working again :)[/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
Somebody just did'nt know hot to repair that, and f*** up pcb arround power elements, 5v regulator pins was cracked, 12v regulator and power transistor was repaired using wires ...[/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
Regulators were replaced with new ones, connections arround power transistor were repaired, and it's working :D[/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
Unfortunately, when it's cold it will not turn on every time. There appears some digits on the display. I gueass, that adding missing caps arround IC's and 'grounding' unused pins should repair that problem, but i will not do that :D[/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
How it is working?[/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
LED displays the track number.[/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
Switch enables/disables writing on the disk.[/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
Write disabled - [color=#008000]the green led is lit[/color][color=green].[/color]
Write enabled - [color=orange]the led is flashing orange.[/color][/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
3 LED's on the botom are indicating disk density[/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
[b][color=red]Red:[/color]DD[/b][/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
[b][color=orange]Orange:[/color]ED[/b][/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
[b][color=green]Green:[/color]SD[/b][/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
some photos:[/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
[attachment=296061:HWv3-13.jpg][/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
[attachment=296062:HWv3-14.jpg][/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
[attachment=296063:HWv3-15.jpg][/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
[attachment=296064:HWv3-16.jpg][/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
[attachment=296065:HWv3-17.jpg][/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
[attachment=296066:HWv3-18.jpg][/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
[attachment=296067:HWv3-19.jpg][/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
[attachment=296068:HWv3-20.jpg][/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
[attachment=296069:HWv3-21.jpg][/background][/size][/font][/color][color=#333333][font=Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][size=3][background=rgb(249, 249, 249)]
Enjoy :)[/background][/size][/font][/color]

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[quote name='willyvmm' timestamp='1372158007' post='2781056']
Some weeks ago i got a 1050 drive with LED display mounted on front panel.
Can anyone recognize this version?
[/quote]
This is a (very homebrew) Copy Card 7.0, a European built speeder based on the original Happy 1050. It greatly improved the original design by fixing several design flaws (if possible) and adding functionality (track display). It boasts a lot of the Happy's features, but is not entirely compatible. The Happy software disk will always show 'fail' on the rom test, and Happy Backup will not work. It takes editing 2 bytes on side 1 (change both to NOP) to get that feature working. Can't remember which ones, though, my notes from the active A8 days are long gone.

[quote name='willyvmm' timestamp='1372158007' post='2781056']
The drive is not working, someone was trying to repair it but with no luck, now is my turn :D
[/quote]
Makes you wonder what people use for soldering, the previous owner clearly didn't have a clue. It almost looks like he used soldering acid, meant for soldering (red copper) plumbing pipes... Glad you got it working again, that feeling is just priceless (been there, done that, myself many times).

re-atari Edited by re-atari

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Yep, as thought a clone, I wonder if the Lazer software works on it?

When I saw the other PCB, the home made one I was stunned it wasn't in flames, I think he used a whole supply of Tandys solder on it :)

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[quote name='Mclaneinc' timestamp='1372433276' post='2783164']
Yep, as thought a clone, I wonder if the Lazer software works on it?
[/quote]
I wouldn't bet too high on getting the Lazer software actually to work. But, as the saying goes, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. Let's see what the TS finds out.

[quote name='Mclaneinc' timestamp='1372433276' post='2783164']
When I saw the other PCB, the home made one I was stunned it wasn't in flames, I think he used a whole supply of Tandys solder on it :)
[/quote]
Well, I was more referring to the 'repair' attempts on the 1050 motherboard. Shrek the friendly ogre couldn't have done it any better.
The homebrew PCB looks relatively decent in comparison, don't think it was built by the repairman. It looks to be soldered with the correct solder (60/40 with resin core), and the soldering itself is not too bad either. Could be much worse. It's just that the copper traces look a bit scruffy, maybe they are drawn by hand on contact film. And leaving unused input pins of 74LS gates freefloating isn't exactly according to the rules either.
But by contrast, I have seen photo's of a homebrew mini Speedy 1050 that was built by piggybacking the CPU, ram, eprom and a 74LS139 (that's all it consists of), and hooking the respective pins up through free flying wire connections. Clearly a sunday afternoon hack.

re-atari Edited by re-atari

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Forgot to mention that the board is designed to be used with either common cathode or common anode LED track displays. You have to set a wire jumper on the solder via's next to CPU pin 21-23 to select between them. You see 5 via's there that look a bit like the 5 eyes on a dice. Looking at the photo of the component side, IIRC you have to connect the center one to left below for common anode displays, or center to right below for common cathode ones. Leave the 2 top via´s next to pin 23 untouched.
It´s a bit hard to see on your photo´s, but it looks like the board is wired for common cathode displays ATM.

re-atari Edited by re-atari

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In recent years there were a number of threads dealing with all kinds of 1050 speeders, so I thought it would be nice to see one about 810 speeders for a change. By googling around I found some photo's of Happy 810 boards and (very interesting) a few blurry ones of what looks to be a homebrew Happy 810.

This one is a piggyback/wirewrap job consisting of what seems to be a few static rams, some logic gates and an eprom on the side PCB. I guess it can't be very difficult to build yourself, but it's impossible to read the components and trace the wiring from these photo's, you'd need to get hold of the contents of the eprom as well. So, I wonder if anyone can shed some light on this subject, maybe even post a wiring diagram for this hack?

re-atari Edited by re-atari

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@re-atari: Thanks for all the infos :)

The display is wired to common anode atm. (look at the schematic in 1st post)
I was trying to google all possible 810 speeders, but with no luck, could you share those photos if you have them?

BTW.
I am looking for PCB photos of any 1050 speeders, in HiRes if possible.

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[quote name='re-atari' timestamp='1372867882' post='2786200']
In recent years there were a number of threads dealing with all kinds of 1050 speeders, so I thought it would be nice to see one about 810 speeders for a change. By googling around I found some photo's of Happy 810 boards and (very interesting) a few blurry ones of what looks to be a homebrew Happy 810.

This one is a piggyback/wirewrap job consisting of what seems to be a few static rams, some logic gates and an eprom on the side PCB. I guess it can't be very difficult to build yourself, but it's impossible to read the components and trace the wiring from these photo's, you'd need to get hold of the contents of the eprom as well. So, I wonder if anyone can shed some light on this subject, maybe even post a wiring diagram for this hack?

re-atari
[/quote]
It may be an original Happy 810 upgrade, which was done using point to point wiring, or a clone. See this posting: [url="http://atariage.com/forums/topic/169186-a-tale-of-3-atari-810-drives/#entry2159286"]http://atariage.com/...s/#entry2159286[/url]

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[quote name='BillC' timestamp='1373016316' post='2787005']
It may be an original Happy 810 upgrade, which was done using point to point wiring, or a clone. See this posting: [url="http://atariage.com/forums/topic/169186-a-tale-of-3-atari-810-drives/#entry2159286"]http://atariage.com/...s/#entry2159286[/url]
[/quote]

That's the one I had found in the past, but (of course) couldn't locate anymore. Thanks for the link, Bill!
Do you know if the wiring diagram and the eprom contents are available for download anywhere? I'd like to give it a try and replicate this hack on my 810. Can't be more than an evenings work.

re-atari Edited by re-atari

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Hello,

 

One remark to the schematic diagram.

The A12 line coming from the IC8 Nand gate is only connected to the Eprom.

So it's NOT connected to the CPU and the RAM or IC7 address decoder.

 

I'm sure, because I own a working sample of the same hardware and checked it.

Also, I can say that this particular design (and the one with 6116 Rams) come from the same source.

There was someone in the Netharlands selling those. (City Leiden)

And he patched the Happy rom to include the track display and density led's.

 

BR/

Guus

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Also, I can say that this particular design (and the one with 6116 Rams) come from the same source.
There was someone in the Netharlands selling those. (City Leiden)
And he patched the Happy rom to include the track display and density led's.


The design of this speeder has German origins, not Dutch. A hint on the actual source is in the track display connector's pinout, it is the same as the Speedy 1050's. They decoded and (if possible) corrected the original Happy rom and adress space routing, rewired the design to take an 8Kb static ram instead of 3 2Kb ones, and added the density led/trackdisplay wiring and rom routines.

re-atari Edited by re-atari

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The drive was bought in Netherlands. 

 

One remark to the schematic diagram.

The A12 line coming from the IC8 Nand gate is only connected to the Eprom.

So it's NOT connected to the CPU and the RAM or IC7 address decoder.

 

Right. There is error on the schematic. I will coorect that soon. The drive was bought in Netherlands, and is dead at this moment waiting for repair.

 

 

Btw. 

I got a BC810 with original HappyWarp 810 Upgrade: http://www.atari.org.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?id=11874

So, when I get some *free time* I will reverse the design ;)

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The drive was bought in Netherlands, and is dead at this moment waiting for repair.

Is the drive still defective? I thought you managed to fix the defects with the PCB shown on your earlier photo's. Or is the speeder not working?
 

I got a BC810 with original HappyWarp 810 Upgrade: http://www.atari.org.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?id=11874
So, when I get some *free time* I will reverse the design ;)

Thanx for your efforts, much appreciated! My A810 is exactly the same as your B&C810 internally, including the Grass Valley board on top of the drive. Well, identical except for the Happy upgrade, of course...
BTW: try to keep the Happy Computers seal intact, otherwise the warranty on your upgrade might expire ;-)

re-atari Edited by re-atari

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It got broken again. This time it looks like RAM problem. But considering the PCB quality I am afraid that it may be dangerous to the pcb to repair attempt ...
So I Think, I Just make a copy and put this one as is on the shelf ;)

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It got broken again. This time it looks like RAM problem. But considering the PCB quality I am afraid that it may be dangerous to the pcb to repair attempt ...
So I Think, I Just make a copy and put this one as is on the shelf ;)

The soldering on your speeder doesn't look that great, so resoldering and putting in sockets where needed while you're at it, might fix the problem. As the Sram and TTL's aren't socketed yet, fitting them will make troubleshooting a lot easier. It will beat making an entirely new PCB.
Judging by your photo's this is a 2-sided PCB without throughholes, so you will have to solder the IC pins on each side seperately.

re-atari

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A while ago, I finally managed to get the PCB working that I've designed for this Happy Clone.
Schematics and component layout are included.
By switching pin 26 of the Eprom, Happy or 1050 mode are available.
The PCB has been designed and build, to prove that the schematics are correct.
Only difference between the schematics in the start of this post and mine is in the A12 line.

BR/
Guus

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A while ago, I finally managed to get the PCB working that I've designed for this Happy Clone.
Schematics and component layout are included.
By switching pin 26 of the Eprom, Happy or 1050 mode are available.
The PCB has been designed and build, to prove that the schematics are correct.
Only difference between the schematics in the start of this post and mine is in the A12 line.

BR/
Guus

A few additions to this post and schematic.

 

U4 is a LS30 (8-input NAND) instead of a LS133 (13-input NAND).The schematic lists the CPU is a (hard to get) 65C02, but a standard 6502 (little less hard to get) will work as well.

 

In order to use a switch on pin 26, the eprom must be a 27128 (16Kb), a 2764 will not suffice. The dump Willy uploaded in post #1 is only 8Kb, and does not contain the 1050 mode. Guus's schematic does not show how the switch is to be wired.

For those interested, here is how to go about: solder a 4k7 resistor between +5V and eprom pin 26, and a open/close switch between pin 26 and GND. This effectively divides the eprom's 16Kb adressspace into 2 blocks of 8Kb each. In one of these blocks the speeder rom resides, in the other the 1050 rom (or rather: the speeder rom in 1050 mode). By pulling pin 26 high (switch open) or low (switch closed) you can select one of the 2 adress blocks, and between the speeder or 1050 mode.

Take care: switching between modes is best only done with the 1050 powered off!

 

re-atari

Edited by re-atari

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Hello re-atari

 

Why not install some kind of buffer between the switch and the eprom?  That way, you can flip the switch as often as you want, but the only moment the position of the switch matters is when you switch the 1050 on.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

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Why not install some kind of buffer between the switch and the eprom?  That way, you can flip the switch as often as you want, but the only moment the position of the switch matters is when you switch the 1050 on.

Why bother? You just need to take care of your precious stuff and don't handle it in a way that it's not supposed to be.
I mean, consumer stuff like microwave ovens needs to be moronproof (or as we say over here: 'hufterbestendig') but we A8 enthousiasts don't qualify as morons, do we? Neither are our A8's consumer stuff. well, maybe back in the 80's they were...

re-atari Edited by re-atari

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