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3D Printed Objects/Cases & Carts for the TI

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http://www.computerworld.com/article/3195706/3d-printing/start-up-touts-3d-printer-that-can-build-carbon-fiber-kevlar-fiberglass-parts.html

 

^^ I wonder as technologies like this progress if we'll be able to get new carts made pretty economically.

 

If anyone prints my cart board and finds the best screws to put in it (and links to it, the thread count, etc), please feel free to share so I can put it on the 3D Object page for others.

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Without having the resources myself to do so (or the knowledge), I'd still love to see if we can get any 3D printed sidecar cases that match the beige style peripherals that TI never released. I just don't know how had that would be since so few of those cases were ever made to begin with. But I'd certainly be interested in some if they ever came to pass.

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http://www.computerworld.com/article/3195706/3d-printing/start-up-touts-3d-printer-that-can-build-carbon-fiber-kevlar-fiberglass-parts.html

 

^^ I wonder as technologies like this progress if we'll be able to get new carts made pretty economically.

 

If anyone prints my cart board and finds the best screws to put in it (and links to it, the thread count, etc), please feel free to share so I can put it on the 3D Object page for others.

 

post-25598-0-83622500-1497025078_thumb.jpg

 

turned out pretty good once we got the size figured out.. I haven't tried screws yet

 

Greg

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Necro-posting, muhaha! For want of something to print, I downloaded the STL and tried this shell out on my resin printer (Elegoo Mars). My first disappointment was that it did not fit in the bed flat, which would have made a nice fast print, but had to be fully vertical. So, 8.5 hrs later...

 

The scaffolding that the software suggested mostly worked... a little bit of it gave out, but it was mostly solid.

 

image.thumb.png.396a8ead8724070e9cde3ea89f18b119.png

 

It also popped out very easily - in fact most of it stayed on the platter when I took the shell off (it's not strictly internal, though I guess it could have been). 

 

The result was decent, solid, and though the top flat edges show a little bit of drippy resin on them, it's sturdy, holds a PCB, and seems to fit together. I even got a neat texture on the top where the software decided to hollow that tiny rise, then put fill patterns in it. A fun project. ;)

image.thumb.png.c27d46eabade2e7a7301c5e431df9cd0.png

 

image.thumb.png.61e76e78cd46845dce4b2e904fff277a.png

 

image.thumb.png.99f20fef5b9b5ffedbe4dd981be66689.png

 

Besides the build speed, with the cost of the resin I bought it cost roughly $3 to print, which is more than I'd like for more than a one-off. Though I suspect I could have got away with less scaffolding.

 

Did anyone ever decide on screws? :)

 

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...

 

One of these days I will see about getting a DECENT printer...

 

My cheap chinese FDM is not really up to the task of making "For sale" anythings.  At best, it's good for testing designs, and that's about it.

 

I don't know how big your resin printer is, (and if the cartridge case is too large to be flat... meh..)  but I have slowly been working on the "Flip-n-File" 5.25" diskette holder models. Those would make a good addition for here I think.  The patent expired, so as long as I make no mention at all about the trademark, it should be fully legit to duplicate.

 

As for "mass produced cartridge shells"--- I think you would be better off getting creative--

I think it should be possible to abuse an old washing machine to function as a suitably large centrifuge (rinse cycle FTW!) to do spin-casting with automotive resin.

 

The internal capacity of such an old washing machine should be sufficient to spincast more than a dozen shells at a time.  I am imagining a rigid, "Does not come out" support frame to accept rectangular silicone molds with a pour reservoir in them, and a simple clamp-latch on each. (say, some carr-lane clamp latches?) Then you just spray your silicone molds with release, load them into the old washer, pour in your automotive resin into the fill cavities, close the lid, and spin that thing up for a few minutes.  Finished cartridge shells should come out after demolding and minimal cleanup.

 

 

 

Edited by wierd_w
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@Tursi You beat me to it!  I am still waiting for my clear resin to arrive (on back-order.)  That looks better than I thought it would.  I have the XYZ Nobel 1.0 (prices dropped when the "a" model was released.)

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18 hours ago, wierd_w said:

I don't know how big your resin printer is, (and if the cartridge case is too large to be flat... meh..)  but I have slowly been working on the "Flip-n-File" 5.25" diskette holder models. Those would make a good addition for here I think.  The patent expired, so as long as I make no mention at all about the trademark, it should be fully legit to duplicate.

 

As for "mass produced cartridge shells"--- I think you would be better off getting creative--

I think it should be possible to abuse an old washing machine to function as a suitably large centrifuge (rinse cycle FTW!) to do spin-casting with automotive resin.

 

The internal capacity of such an old washing machine should be sufficient to spincast more than a dozen shells at a time.  I am imagining a rigid, "Does not come out" support frame to accept rectangular silicone molds with a pour reservoir in them, and a simple clamp-latch on each. (say, some carr-lane clamp latches?) Then you just spray your silicone molds with release, load them into the old washer, pour in your automotive resin into the fill cavities, close the lid, and spin that thing up for a few minutes.  Finished cartridge shells should come out after demolding and minimal cleanup.

That would be hilarious to watch run - whether it worked or not! ;)

 

You can see in the first picture how big the resin tank is - not all that much larger than the cartridge. The cart WILL actually lay down in it, JUST, but the screen that does the exposure is smaller than the tank. :)

 

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5 hours ago, HOME AUTOMATION said:

In the universe I live in...

:-o

...scaffolding is a verb!

:grin:

I am not held to your archaic notions of grammar and universally agreed upon words with known definitions!

 

<.<

 

>.>

 

 

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tursi, out of curiosity: are you using the elego mars or elego mars 2 pro for printing? Looking at the photos, the quality looks great.

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16 hours ago, retroclouds said:

tursi, out of curiosity: are you using the elego mars or elego mars 2 pro for printing? Looking at the photos, the quality looks great.

It's the original Mars - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K2ZHMRF#ace-6796040015

 

The quality is GOOD, but I wouldn't go to GREAT. My photos don't show the visible drip residue on the vertical surfaces (since they were horizontal when printed, the resin couldn't run off), nor the slight deformation in the vertical tabs at the front of the cartridge (they were ALSO horizontal when printed). I could probably have solved both issues with some extra scaffolds to give the liquid somewhere to go.

 

(Edit: Actually, looking at it, the residue is on the INSIDE of the cart, so that's actually resin that was trapped inside. A slight slope on the inside might solve that...)

 

But, none of this impacted putting the shell together nor the fit of the PCB, and it does have a very pleasing texture. I'm pretty pleased with this printer, especially for as cheap as it is.

 

Edited by Tursi
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21 hours ago, Tursi said:

That would be hilarious to watch run - whether it worked or not! ;)

 

You can see in the first picture how big the resin tank is - not all that much larger than the cartridge. The cart WILL actually lay down in it, JUST, but the screen that does the exposure is smaller than the tank. :)

 

 

Really, it should be a pretty simple modification.  The agitator post is usually held in with 5 to 8 bolts through the bottom of the basin, and could be replaced with a generic central metal post. (used to anchor the support framework at the center of the basin) The basin's metal liner contains an orderly hole pattern around the outside to allow water to be ejected during the spin cycle.  Those could be repurposed with some flat-headed bolts (there is not much clearance on the outside between the inner wall of the washer's basin, and the plastic retention wall just outside it, so you need low profile heads) and some nuts on the inside of the basin, to hold the framework in place. As long as you used proper math for placement of the frame supports, it should stay balanced. (In case you couldn't tell, I've had to service a few old appliances in the past.)

 

I just have neither the work-area/storage-space to house another major appliance, nor the cash to go hunting for an old washer.  Otherwise, I probably would have done something like this already.  (I would use it to make resin-cast kits)

 

I am imagining a setup similar to a honey extractor used to collect honey.

honey-extractor-radial12-helical-gears-s

 

Just instead of a hand crank, you use the spin cycle of the derelict top-loading washing machine. (all it needs to be able to do is enter the spin cycle. All other functions of the washer can be totally hosed, does not matter.)   Rectangular molds are inserted in the top in an orderly pattern, and held in place by the framework.  Tops of the mold forms contain reservoirs for pouring in the resin--  Once spun up, centrifugal forces drive the resin into the mold proper, and you get very clean casts. Easy peasy.

 

Since you can often get old beat-up appliances for free (Check your local freecycle type boards), it's much more economical than buying a large centrifuge.  About 50$ worth of stuff from a hardware store, and an afternoon of tinkering.  If I had a PROPER garage for sch a project, I am pretty sure I would have already done it.

 

I am surprisingly good at dreaming up novel, ghetto-tech it seems.

 

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6 hours ago, HOME AUTOMATION said:

working... working...

 

dunno.jpg.bc1f09ff1cde6d8848ace0a8fb189b8f.jpg

:twisted:

Shifty eyes :)

 

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*Spock eyebrow*

 

Technically, "Scaffolding", when employed in such a manner, is a gerund.

Such as, "The men are scaffolding the worksite."  The verb in the sentence is "are". 

 

*Gets accused or being green blooded and inhuman by the cantankerous and illogical doctor*

 

;)

 

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But "are" is just the auxiliary verb. As such, it conveys no semantic information but is part of a formal construct with another verb (gerund).

 

There is always a smaller nit. ;-)

 

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Dammit!  My "what's next-ism" problem has combined with my OCD need for "matching items" with pleasing aesthetics, so my portable TI's joystick will have to be modified.  3D printing is probably not practical for this application, so I guess I'll have to change the color instead.  

 

Matching.thumb.PNG.037f6e6cca9cd4061d372d3095e92da2.PNG

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Interesting.  When I read Tursi's post I took "scaffolding" as a reference to the lattice-like printed "support".   I've only ever heard/used the word as a noun, e.g., "The company placed scaffolding around the building."  English language aberration?

 

image.thumb.png.01fc1258900f88ec910d44ac67db4677.png

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I drew this conclusion while still somewhat of a lad... since then I have always referred to them as scaffolds.

 

So, I'm down with Tursi...

On 9/29/2020 at 2:34 AM, Tursi said:

I am not held to your archaic notions of grammar and universally agreed upon words with known definitions!

:cool:

 

...LOOK their scaffolding the statue!:grin:

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Quote

 

scaffold

 
 
 
[ skaf-uhld, -ohld ]
 

noun

a temporary structure for holding workers and materials during the erection, repair, or decoration of a building.
an elevated platform on which a criminal is executed, usually by hanging.
a raised platform or stage for exhibiting spectacles, seating spectators, etc.
any raised framework.
 

verb (used with object)

to furnish with a scaffold or scaffolding.
to support by or place on a scaffold.

 

 
 
 
Verb is totally legit too.
 
Fun use of language to piss off the grammar Nazis:
 
"The builders were building a building. Some scaffolded the exterior, while others walked on the scaffolding to lay brick and mortar."
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15 hours ago, Omega-TI said:

Dammit!  My "what's next-ism" problem has combined with my OCD need for "matching items" with pleasing aesthetics, so my portable TI's joystick will have to be modified.  3D printing is probably not practical for this application, so I guess I'll have to change the color instead.  

 

Matching.thumb.PNG.037f6e6cca9cd4061d372d3095e92da2.PNG

 

Wrong brand, but not a bad fit.

(Blurry pics -- been repairing my phone from being run over and it looks like the focusing element in the camera module no longer moves the lens. Will pop it back open and replace that.)

 

DSC00017.thumb.JPG.99e948a2e0e27c499119c1f9f1d1e1b9.JPGDSC00016.thumb.JPG.f242df071b1d78644f42edd6b944d31f.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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44 minutes ago, OLD CS1 said:

Wrong brand, but not a bad fit.
Nice.thumb.jpg.a04d1d470ac65fcbe5bb68a376dfd7a3.jpg

 

Yeah!  If it were not for the Commodore badging, I'd want to buy one!

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