Recommend a soldering iron?

[576XE]

Exactly, Brian. Temperature controlled stations are much more preferable.

 

We need to separate destructive or non destructive desoldering.

If we'll decide to use hot air pistoles in particular case of 130XE weak mobos

only God knows what will occure first exfoliation of printed circuits or real desoldering of IC's.

 

My question: What temperature is recommended for nondestructive desoldering?

[Bryan]

I just ordered one of these (thanks to this thread...). I don't think I've seen this assortment of features at this price before.

 

http://sra-solder.com/product.php/7176/1/738h

[JamesD]

The Hakko FX888 is a nice iron as well

That's the one I have. They are so much better than the simple pencil models.

[SIO2]

I just ordered one of these (thanks to this thread...). I don't think I've seen this assortment of features at this price before.

 

http://sra-solder.com/product.php/7176/1/738h

That looks nice. Lots of handy tools and features. You should enjoy that one.

[+orpheuswaking]

I just ordered one of these (thanks to this thread...). I don't think I've seen this assortment of features at this price before.

 

http://sra-solder.com/product.php/7176/1/738h

Excellent choice, I wish I had gone with that one instead of the single Soldering Station.

[kt425]

I would recommend getting a temperature controlled station as well. I have a Hakko FX-888D and love it. Its a digital temperature controlled model that replaced the FX-888. It has a quick recovery time and has nice things like preset and sleep modes. I also did some research on Hakko and found that they have a good quality product. There are a lot of people still using old Hakko stations today.

 

I tried to find where I got mine but I did stumble upon this one: http://www.gotopac.com/Hakko_FX_888_Soldering_Station_s/3893.htm. Its under $100, which is pretty reasonable and it has free shipping.

 

Hope that helps!

[russg]

Hot air is more for surface mount devices. It can be used to temporarily melt all the connections so you lift an IC off the board, or it can be used to solder a part in place using solder paste (a mixture of finely ground solder and flux).

 

What is that white tip cleaner? Is that isopropyl alcohol?

Edited March 7, 2014 by russg

[Bryan]

What is that white tip cleaner? Is that isopropyl alcohol?

That's a flux pen. The extra flux makes the solder braid work faster.

[+wongojack]

Very informative thread that will likely result in me purchasing something. Commenting to follow

[russg]

 

Very informative thread that will likely result in me purchasing something. Commenting to follow

 

Well, I did it. My trusty Proskit solder station quit. I bought a new SMD (China) Rework station.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EMNG9RE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&tag=atariage&creativeASIN=B00EMNG9RE&linkCode=as2

 

It doesn't say temperature control, sure hope it isn't just an adjustable. Doesn't say wattage either. If I remember, I'll post specs when I get it.

 

Oh, here's a youtube about it. 700W.

 

Edited March 8, 2014 by russg

[Bryan]

Well, I did it. My trusty Proskit solder station quit. I bought a new SMD (China) Rework station.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EMNG9RE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&tag=atariage&creativeASIN=B00EMNG9RE&linkCode=as2

 

It doesn't say temperature control, sure hope it isn't just an adjustable. Doesn't say wattage either. If I remember, I'll post specs when I get it.

 

Oh, here's a youtube about it. 700W.

 

 

It's a temp controlled 45 watt ceramic iron, so no problem.

 

45 watts goes further with a ceramic element because they're smaller and used to apply heat more directly to the tip.

[1050]

I'm thinking the often included sponge pad as on Russ's model is somewhat of an inherited feature of much earlier days when temp control was not so common. The pad was originally doused with just water, used for cooling the tip and thus, this was your temperature control old school style, but only with a fair amount of practice did one gain the knack of just how long to apply the tip until it was just right for the job at hand. Different tips and job sizes meant a new skill set had to be learned too. I suspect that the pad came to signify a 'good soldering station' whether anybody knew of it's original purpose or not. And it's on my very old HexAcon therm-o-trac as well. Soon enough then came along tip cleaner solutions to put in the water to aid soldering work which many would not do without, so there is a very valid reason for it to still be on a temp controlled modern station. There always was temperature control with a wet sponge, but it required a certain acquired skill set that many would prefer to do without the learning of, including myself. When the solder on the tip is dull grey with wrinkles, especially with a hue of blue color, it's way too hot. About all I care to learn too, when the solder on the tip shines like a liquid mirror, it's just right and you are good to go.

 

 

 

Not my picture or iron, just one exactly like it, $400 to $600 for the same model number ( 1002 ) new today ( can anybody tell me why so high? ), but they look a bit different than this one - mine was given to me, current bid on this one is at $20.50 with $13 shipping. A different seller ( $50, no bids ) says "Works great, after 750 temp light just keeps blinking, but gets nice and hot." Yeah, the red light shows the power cycling off and on to the tip, when it blinks you are at the selected temp no matter where on the dial you set it to. Same knob shuts it off when turned to the left with a click. Where this one above is actually set to is where I run mine except for large work, then the dial is straight up or a nudge past noon but that will cook the solder in just a minute, so you want to start using it or deal with grey solder. Takes a half minute to warm up too. Mine does a thumping buzz with the light, like throwing the mains on a battleship or something. Only trouble I've ever had with it in the past 25 years was that once it needed a new tip which I got from FleaBay for $6 or so. Don't neccessarily have to spend big, people.

 

 

 

 

 

[Bryan]

Quick Update...

 

This little station is only $25.99+shipping, but is temperature controlled and uses standard tips. I'm thinking of getting one as a travel iron. Even if it only lasted a couple years it would be a decent deal. I've been pretty happy with the Aoyue stuff compared to some of the other Chinese brands.

 

http://sra-solder.com/product.php/7221/22/aoyue_469

Edited September 13, 2014 by Bryan

[Zap!]

Soldering beginner here, looking to buy something to solder a Dreamcast battery holder (and also an Atari 2600 difficulty switch). How's this? It's only $24.95 and it's in the US.

 

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/station-60.html

[russg]

Soldering beginner here, looking to buy something to solder a Dreamcast battery holder (and also an Atari 2600 difficulty switch). How's this? It's only $24.95 and it's in the US.

 

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/station-60.html

That'll work. You might want to get a desolder pump and solder wick. The rework station has a hot air wand for de-soldering, but as long as you have

something to soak up the old solder, you should be OK.

[Zap!]

That'll work. You might want to get a desolder pump and solder wick. The rework station has a hot air wand for de-soldering, but as long as you have

something to soak up the old solder, you should be OK.

 

Wow, I just looked up yours and it really has a ton of features. Even though I liked the price a lot better on the one in my link, I think I'm going to just order the one you have.

[eeun]

I picked up a combo soldering / hot air station a couple years ago identical to this one and am happy with it.

The iron is sometimes a bit on the weak side when using a fine tip on a large ground area of PCB, but that may be my laziness for not switching to a larger tip.

Hot air is damn handy, especially if you ever need to repair any modern electronics. Or if you use a lot of heat-shrink tubing.

[Kyle22]

The quote function here seems to be broken again, but to answer 130XE's question, 320-370C (600-700F) for soldering, maybe a little higher for desoldering.

 

Use the lowest temperature that you can to avoid damaging the board, and when desoldering, it is helpful to put a small drop of flux (or even a little new solder) onto the joint before sucking the solder out.

 

Also, sometimes if the chip it to be discarded, you may clip the pins off of the chip and heat and remove them one by one from the board.

 

Hope this helps.

[Zap!]

I'm going to order the "898D+ 2in1 SMD Rework Soldering Hot Air Station Welder ESD 11 Tips BGA Nozzles" from eBay. Cheapest I found is $75 shipped from the US, so I won't have to wait 2-4 weeks from China. Here's the listing:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200966083516?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[kogden]

I have a half-decent iron these days.... now I need a cheap DEsoldering iron with a real pump. I have a 40W desoldering iron with a hand-pump but it can be pretty hit or miss. That's where I make the most mess and end up with lots of flux on the board.

 

What is the best way to get rid of leftover flux sticking to the board anyway? Is there a good remover spray? I've been using a toothbrush and bottled water but it ain't perfect.

Edited October 17, 2014 by kogden

[BillC]

I have a half-decent iron these days.... now I need a cheap DEsoldering iron with a real pump. I have a 40W desoldering iron with a hand-pump but it can be pretty hit or miss. That's where I make the most mess and end up with lots of flux on the board.

 

What is the best way to get rid of leftover flux sticking to the board anyway? Is there a good remover spray? I've been using a toothbrush and bottled water but it ain't perfect.

Isopropyl alcohol works well at dissolving flux, and the 99%(not rubbing alcohol) variety doesn't leave residue. It's available at many pharmacies, at least in Canada.

[Omega-TI]

Is there a good remover spray?

 

Try << THIS LINK >>

 

[Zap!]

so forg

I have a half-decent iron these days.... now I need a cheap DEsoldering iron with a real pump. I have a 40W desoldering iron with a hand-pump but it can be pretty hit or miss. That's where I make the most mess and end up with lots of flux on the board.

 

What is the best way to get rid of leftover flux sticking to the board anyway? Is there a good remover spray? I've been using a toothbrush and bottled water but it ain't perfect.

 

I soldered for one day of my life, and it was with a cigarette lighter and soldering wire (let's just say it didn't go too well). So please forgive me for the following question: Doesn't a decent soldering station (like the 898D+) have built-in desoldering and come with a pump? Here's a link:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200966083516?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[russg]

so forg

 

I soldered for one day of my life, and it was with a cigarette lighter and soldering wire (let's just say it didn't go too well). So please forgive me for the following question: Doesn't a decent soldering station (like the 898D+) have built-in desoldering and come with a pump? Here's a link:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200966083516?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

No. The solder station doesn't come with a desolder pump. It comes with an iron, with lots of tips and a heat blower. You would use the heat blower on

what you want to desolder, then use a separate desolder pump to suck up the solder. Also, solder wick can help, but not much.

[Zap!]

No. The solder station doesn't come with a desolder pump. It comes with an iron, with lots of tips and a heat blower. You would use the heat blower on

what you want to desolder, then use a separate desolder pump to suck up the solder. Also, solder wick can help, but not much.

 

OK thank you. I will order separately a desolder pump. Any recommendations?