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CV power switch replacememt

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I remember reading somewhere about a replacement power switch for the CV. If I remember right, it gets installed in the spot of the original switch and has wires that run to the mobo. Of course you'd want some sort of disconnect on the wiring. Can someone please link me to the proper switch so I can purchase one? I couldn't seem to find a thread on it here, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

 

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I remember reading somewhere about a replacement power switch for the CV. If I remember right, it gets installed in the spot of the original switch and has wires that run to the mobo. Of course you'd want some sort of disconnect on the wiring. Can someone please link me to the proper switch so I can purchase one? I couldn't seem to find a thread on it here, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

 

Here is a video on how to replace the power switch.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QhCYc-pvYM

 

In the video he uses a Radio Shack DPDT Rocker Switch part #275 691

 

Hope this helps you out.

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Here's the thread for when I did this mod to my CV a while back: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/201074-power-led-or-new-power-switch/

 

I should mention if you go the 'fancy' route using those NKK illuminated switches, things can get expensive and those in particular are a pain to track down depending on whats in stock with which ever vendor you chose (Mouser, Digi-Key, etc).. However, the look is worth it IMHO. ;)

 

If you want to keep things simple, like 65Gamerguy said, that Radio Shack DPDT Heavy Duty Rocker Switch (275-0691) is another cheaper/easier option and fits into the existing power switch hole nicely.. It's all a matter of personal preference. :)

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Please NEVER replace the original. If refurbished it should last as long or longer than a replacement.

 

If the original power switch is:

 

1. Desolder and remove

2. dissemble

3. cleaned with rubbing alcohol and q-tip to get the old grease off

4. deoxidize contatcs peferably with D100 Deoxit

5. regreased with a high quality dielectric (simply means non conductive) grease.

 

I would recommend lithium.

 

Here is a tube for $5. You can get grease in almost any big box or automotive store.

 

http://puredieselpower.com/products/lucas-10533-1-white-lithium-grease-8oz.html?gclid=CJ6Bgt6m_MICFQmNaQodLoUAUw

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Here is a video on how to replace the power switch.

 

 

In the video he uses a Radio Shack DPDT Rocker Switch part #275 691

 

Hope this helps you out.

Used this video and replaced my power switch with the Radio Shack one today. I have very little experience soldering but this was relatively easy. I hated the old switch but saved it for a rainy day. I love the way the new one just works!

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Please NEVER replace the original. If refurbished it should last as long or longer than a replacement.

 

If the original power switch is:

 

1. Desolder and remove

2. dissemble

3. cleaned with rubbing alcohol and q-tip to get the old grease off

4. deoxidize contatcs peferably with D100 Deoxit

5. regreased with a high quality dielectric (simply means non conductive) grease.

 

I would recommend lithium.

 

Here is a tube for $5. You can get grease in almost any big box or automotive store.

 

http://puredieselpower.com/products/lucas-10533-1-white-lithium-grease-8oz.html?gclid=CJ6Bgt6m_MICFQmNaQodLoUAUw

 

 

Agree, I don't understand why everyone is replacing, just refurbish the original. By the way, did for the first time today, you do only have to pinch the expanded metal on the outherside of the power switch, and desolder the metal shielding for the switch (two spots). No need to remove the whole switch. :)

Edited by zippiz

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It's easily reveresable if I ever want to go back to the old switch. I actually like the way it looks. I guess it's subjective. The new switch is much easier to operate though.

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I would just hope that if you ever decide to sell your console you put the OEM switch back on. What's out in the wild is all that's left of this aging console and the numbers are becoming rarer with each passing year. With all of the mods getting done having an original one stock is going to be desirable.

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I would just hope that if you ever decide to sell your console you put the OEM switch back on. What's out in the wild is all that's left of this aging console and the numbers are becoming rarer with each passing year. With all of the mods getting done having an original one stock is going to be desirable.

I'll never sell mine! I do have the old switch stored in a safe place.

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Used this video and replaced my power switch with the Radio Shack one today. I have very little experience soldering but this was relatively easy. I hated the old switch but saved it for a rainy day. I love the way the new one just works!

Thanks for this. (and to everyone who replied) I picked up this switch at RS today for 53 cents. I'm going to install it soon. I will probably use one of those pc power supply y cables for parts to make the switch able to disconnect when I take the case apart.

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I would just hope that if you ever decide to sell your console you put the OEM switch back on. What's out in the wild is all that's left of this aging console and the numbers are becoming rarer with each passing year. With all of the mods getting done having an original one stock is going to be desirable.

yep, I have one modded out I use for the podcast, it will never be sold so does not matter what is done to it :). The other 4 I have are remaining stock (with refurbed original switches as Yurkie described to do :) )

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Installed the switch and used molex connectors to make the case top easy to set aside should I ever need to open it again.

 

With the new switch the CV works 100% great. Not a single graphical glitch in over an hour of play, turning it on and off to swap out different games.

 

I had disassembled my stock switch twice. Used dielectric grease, but it would always start messing up after a few months. My stock switch was bad off though. It was actually frozen and needed to be freed when my friend gave me the CV. It was stored in his attic for years. Anyway, the system will see a lot more use now that it will work good when I do use it now and again.

 

Thanks!

Edited by Official Ninja

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I'm happy with my decision. I couldn't even play Mr. Do before without it glitching out. Now I am enjoying the system. Not sure why people think it looks ugly, but to each his own I guess!

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Personally I think it makes the original aesthetic design of the console look like a tricked-out low-rider but I'm glad you're happy with the mod and it improves game performance.

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I need to replace the switch in mine too. Smurf's shirt follows him on the opposite side of the screen, etc etc. I was surprised the cause is usually the Power Switch of all things.

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How does one know if the switch needs to be taken apart and cleaned?

 

My Colecovision sometimes glitches out. Usually the game is still playable, except the colors get messed up, and/or a bunch of random stuff appears on the screen. It usually fixes it self when turned off then on again.

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How does one know if the switch needs to be taken apart and cleaned?

 

My Colecovision sometimes glitches out. Usually the game is still playable, except the colors get messed up, and/or a bunch of random stuff appears on the screen. It usually fixes it self when turned off then on again.

That's exactly when. Good luck with the repair.

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Just successfully AV modded my Colecovision! I was sweating it since I have a shaky soldering hand, but thankfully my wife helped keep things steady. 😄

 

Two of the four things I hate about the system are now fixed. Hopefully the ball top controller mod will eliminate one of my other gripes. Now if only I could solve the problem of the two ton power brick...

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Thanks for the sales plug chart45. The gamepad is still available in my MarketPlace thread for less than I paid for it.

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Here is my CV with it's "ugly" switch. I have to say that since installing this switch I have used my CV much more than I normally have in the past. It works glitch free 100% of the time.

 

16541305365_948d3066ea_s.jpg by CharliePel, on Flickr

Edited by Official Ninja

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