phipscube Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 I used the Recom R-785.0-1.0 and did exactly as the instructions. Does the LED get its connection through the same ribbon cable that connects all the buttons? The only other thing I can think of is those fragile connections have broken a bit. Before this mod it worked fine. I had also done a full cap replacement before this as I bought the lynx not working with screen issues, replacing all caps fixed that, but I still had problems with power now and then (screen flickering with some strange sounds), so found this mod and tried it, I also replaced Q12 at the same time. Since then the LED started flashing, but it seems to have cured the screen problem the last 3 days I have been playing with it. But I wonder as I have undone that ribbon cable a few times now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 Yes the LED is connected through the ribbon cable. If I remember, pin 1 is cathode side of the LED (negative) and pin 14 is common 5v power for all the buttons and LED. If the button are working, check pin 1. Pin 1 is the side closer to control pad and on/off buttons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puk Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Hi there, great idea in replacing the dodgy reg! I recently dug out of lynx and found my batteries had leaked in the compartment, whenever i put the thing away 20+ years ago i guess i didn't think about batteries leaking as a ten year old. So I did some digging and found this thread, and this forum, hoorah! There is still love for the Lynx. I can't find the charger, so this got me thinking. Okay, i'm now wondering about updating the thing, i found McWill's LCD, and the flash cart that's in testing, and this got me thinking. So how much in total would a Lynx 2, with a new lcd, and flashcart(sd) pull, probably, 600mA? What do you reckon? So I'm thinking of replacing the horrid idea of AA batteries with lipo's, either several in series or one larger one and then using a usb charger to charge them and supply enough voltage to the Lynx to power it whilst it's on charge. So this way you could sit on a flight with the usb plugged in charging and playing away. I've had a look at the schematics that i've found here http://www.retroisle.com/atari/lynx/Technical/Hardware/Lynx-Schematics.php and can't see that the 9v is used anywhere, it's simply stepped down to the 5v. It's been over ten years since i've touched or looked at schematics and my mind is fairly sketchy. So I'm thinking on installing one of these http://core-electronics.com.au/usb-liion-lipoly-charger-v1-2.html and then output to a 5v step-up Pololu reg or one akin to the one you used. I found your thread when best working out where i would plug the thing in. What do you reckon, would it cause any hassal to the Lynx overall would you have thought? I don't like the idea of hacking up the Lynx but may knock up something to make it sit in the battery box with a 3d printer. Think anyone else would be interested in using it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puk Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Edit, I lost the original charger link i meant to use, it was suppose to be this one, http://littlebirdelectronics.com.au/products/powerboost-500-charger-rechargeable-5v-lipo-usb-boost-500ma which doesn't then need the step up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+karri Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Interesting. An USB powered Lynx with built-in charger. They seem to have an 1A version also. It may be better for the modded Lynx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puk Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Yea, i'm still wondering what a McWill LCD and SD cartridged Lynx 2 would pull, as obviously space can be an issue and these regulators get a bit hot. It's been years since i've used my Lynx, what is battery life like with standard AA's? Couple of hours? So it wouldn't need a particularly large lipo to match that, and with the aid of usb charging would make life extremely easy. I've already got a 1A charger from a retropie project, so maybe when i get some time i'll knock it up. I need a friend with a 3d printer to make a battery door that i can have a usb plug in. Save chopping it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 When I modded my Lynx 2 with LCD, I was averaging 300mA with tops near 350mA on most carts. I don't know what a flash cart with FPGA or w/e would draw but 600 is probably a bit more than what it would need total. A generic USB charger would do the trick but some cheap USB charger may not put out clean 5v. If you have an O-scope, check the ripple. A good ripple should be very minimal within a few millivolt. Cheap POS may have ripple in excess of half volt or more, Injecting 5v directly into the 5v spot and ground rather than using 5v regulator as described in standard 5v mod would work. I had considered using lipo battery but it needs a proper charger to avoid disaster and a 5v dc-dc converter from lipo output. And there's a chance you will have annoying blinky LED because the power input isn't higher than 5v and the LED circuit would think your battery is low. I posted a schematic elsewhere on this forum section, it includes the circuit on Lynx 2, maybe it can be modded for different voltage range or just fixed entirely to remain steady and just play until Lynx crashes or shuts off then recharge battery. Right now my focus is getting my Turboexpress #2 working (lights up, nothing else works) and modding my GG with new LCD. Then I need to go back to my PC Engine and fix the fouled up mod that some noob with $10 soldering iron thought he could do and failed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puk Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Hmm, interesting. Thankyou for the reply. This item https://www.adafruit.com/products/2465is a step-up dc-dc regulator, with a built in Lipo charger circuit. It also includes a low battery light, charging light combo. I've got one of these at my place in the UK that i intended for building a Raspberry-Pi RetroPi system based on the size of a gameboy, but that's a different story. So until that comes into fruition then i can use that charger. I'm good at SMD soldering, so shall remove the LED and see if i can relocate it. So to elaborate on your post, you think i could just feed the 5v straight into the points that you've used for your regulator? I can't see why not. A decent soldering iron is everyone who plays with electronics best friend, i hate the cheap stuff, especially if someone uses a low wattage iron and lead free solder, what a fucking mess. I haven't even thought about a TurboExpress in over twenty years, I'm liking this forum! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 (edited) Pin 1 on the control panel membrane is for LED, cathode side to be controlled by power circuit. Pin 14 (opposite side) is 5v source. If the low indicator LED on that lipo board is tied to +v source and the cathode is connected to a circuit to control the LED, you can just run a wire from where cathode spot is to pin 1 and cut the PCB trace leading to pin 1 on Lynx mainboard. Pin 1 is the side closest to cross pad, pin 14 is closest to button A and B side. PS the original LED is taped on rather than soldered on. But if you're really good with irons, you could replace the original LED with a SMD bi-color LED, One to power active, one to low power so you get one color for normal and different color if it's low. The original LED uses obsolete submini axial package, SMD came out shortly afterward and made tiny LEDs in leaded package all but useless. Edited August 31, 2015 by 7800fan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megantonneke Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Hi, I'm another newbie on this forum and in the process of reconditioning some of my five atari lynxes using all the shared knowledge on this forum. Great stuff!. But my question: I have one Lynx I not powering up with 9V adapter or batteries, but working using the 6V adapter trick, can this be fixed using this Recom voltage controller mod, or replacing Q12 (Q11 on Lynx I) with the N-channel mosfet? I understand that doing both is best to keep them in working order. But I would like to know the minimal repair needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 It sounds like the transistor or zener diode is bad and not providing 5v, and Lynx generally don't like running at 9v unregulated. The 5v mod most likely will fix it. The mosfet (Q11 or Q12) are fine if you can turn on Lynx with the power button. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megantonneke Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 It sounds like the transistor or zener diode is bad and not providing 5v, and Lynx generally don't like running at 9v unregulated. The 5v mod most likely will fix it. The mosfet (Q11 or Q12) are fine if you can turn on Lynx with the power button. Thanks, the 5v mod it is then... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megantonneke Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Hmm, interesting. Thankyou for the reply. This item https://www.adafruit.com/products/2465is a step-up dc-dc regulator, with a built in Lipo charger circuit. It also includes a low battery light, charging light combo. I've got one of these at my place in the UK that i intended for building a Raspberry-Pi RetroPi system based on the size of a gameboy, but that's a different story. So until that comes into fruition then i can use that charger. I'm good at SMD soldering, so shall remove the LED and see if i can relocate it. So to elaborate on your post, you think i could just feed the 5v straight into the points that you've used for your regulator? I can't see why not. A decent soldering iron is everyone who plays with electronics best friend, i hate the cheap stuff, especially if someone uses a low wattage iron and lead free solder, what a fucking mess. I haven't even thought about a TurboExpress in over twenty years, I'm liking this forum! I really like the idea of having a USB rechargable lipo powering a Lynx. I even saw on the adafruit website a kit with inductor coils for wireless charging. That would be bliss, to have dock to put your Lynx in and have it recharge via induction! Just getting a bit carried away here :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 I really like the idea of having a USB rechargable lipo powering a Lynx. I even saw on the adafruit website a kit with inductor coils for wireless charging. That would be bliss, to have dock to put your Lynx in and have it recharge via induction! Just getting a bit carried away here :-) That would be pretty slick. I've got two other Lynx's that I'm going to do the voltage mod on. I think I'm going to try the OKI regulator since it's a few $ less, and is supposed to run a little cooler than the RECOM. There are some really cheap 5V step down regulators on eBay for around $2 or less, but most of them have an adjustment pot to adjust voltage output. I really want just a fixed output, less room to make mistakes or have things change in the future. Since you'll be in there, it's probably not a bad idea to also replace the power MOSFET (Q11/Q12). I'm just going to recap, new mosfet, and regulator all the Lynx's I own and any I plan to refurb. the total cost on all those parts is around $11. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitter Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 I started to do the 5v mod on my board, but realized the induction coils are missing where they would normally be on other revisions. They are just jumpers on this one. Question is would doing the 5v mod as is do any harm to this board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7800fan Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 Looks like Atari left them out to save $0.02. Just snip the one jumper for the diode and leave other jumper in place, it should work fine. The inductor is removed for the 5v mod anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Also, put some dabs of hot glue on each side of your power jack to re-inforce it. I do that on all my systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitter Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 Thanks guys. Mod was successful along with the lcd mod, but my power light is blinking now. With batteries or with the power supply. Not sure why that is, but I may just leave it alone. That new lcd just knocks it out of the park. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atryly01 Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 OK, first Thanks to all for researching and sharing all this information. I hope to install the 5V Mod with the Recom tomorrow and maybe even the McWill Screen Mod (I received it last week) in my recently acquired Lynx II. Since the beginning I own a Lynx, but that is the original big version. In the past I have even made some color samples for Atari a dark blue metalic, Dark Red metalic and a Green metalic version. As the original paint came of my first Lynx I decided to strip it and airbrush the casing. Mine was bright metalic Red. The manager from Atari Benelux had seen my Lynx in that color and send me some samples to do the color versions. NEVER seen the color versions in production though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trew Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 OK, first Thanks to all for researching and sharing all this information. I hope to install the 5V Mod with the Recom tomorrow and maybe even the McWill Screen Mod (I received it last week) in my recently acquired Lynx II. Since the beginning I own a Lynx, but that is the original big version. In the past I have even made some color samples for Atari a dark blue metalic, Dark Red metalic and a Green metalic version. As the original paint came of my first Lynx I decided to strip it and airbrush the casing. Mine was bright metalic Red. The manager from Atari Benelux had seen my Lynx in that color and send me some samples to do the color versions. NEVER seen the color versions in production though Interesting... got any pictures? Is it easy to do, would love a how to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atryly01 Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 This weekend I have modified my Lynx II and installed the Recom R785.0-1.0 before I continued to install the Screen Modification from McWill and added the VGA connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atryly01 Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Interesting... got any pictures? Is it easy to do, would love a how to? I don't know if I made some pictures. Perhaps I did. As at the time it was old school photography, it could well be that during moving house they are lost. It was not that difficult. I removed all not to be sprayed parts, such as screen window and several buttons. Sanded the casing, primer and sprayed them in the desired colours. Then added the lettering and finaly several clear coat protection layers were added on top of it all before assembling the Lynx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 Anyone solved the blinking power LED issue? I've done about 5 or 6 of these regulators, and I have my first lynx that has a blinking LED. Confused as to what's causing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phipscube Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 My lynx eventually stopped lighting the power LED completely, so I think mine is to do with the ribbon. I recently bought a junk lynx to try and salvage from it, but not had time to try. Will post here if my problem is solved replacing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowdog360 Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 If your light went out completely then there are probably 3 possibilities: 1. The LED itself went bad. 2. The tape holding the LED onto the flex circuit let go (had this happen a few times), and needs just to be re-taped on. 3. The ribbon connector is scratched off too much on the end. You can fix that by cutting back a few mm, OR using a nickel conductive paint pen to beef up the existing connectors. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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