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TransKey-II in development


mytek

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mouser sells a nice ps2 connector with pigtail wires. you just need to add your plug of choice, I like the molex kk ones myself.

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kobiconn/161-2106/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsQtlBhqKq43V6NCb10jEf7

 

Yes good point, but I'm not sure how much savings there would be, considering that several parts would need to be ordered and assembled. And the plug for the mouse/keyboard combination is a bit different than the standard molex. It is a dual inline 10 position plug/header (the one shown on the right in the picture below). The link you provided, has a starting price of $3.10 each, with the first price break at 10 pieces ($2.83). The Startech complete assembly which includes the mini-din panel mount jack w/screws, a pigtail, a bracket, and the 10 position plug is going for $3.21. All that is required is to re-position the terminals in the housing (terminals have already been crimped to the wires). I guess if you were going to build a lot of these (as in 10 or more) it might be cheaper to go the route that you suggested, hard to say for sure. But none the less, thanks for providing another option.

 

7330219_orig.jpg

 

- Michael

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I got fooled :dunce:

 

I just assembled two of the new boards I received from OSH Park (both a TK-II-PB and a TK-II-XEGS), and I'm happy to say they both worked first time out of the box. Although it was funny at first with the TK-II-PB board installed in a 1200XL I thought I had a problem. Because every time I tried to use the arrow keys or any CTRL key combination, the cursor would erratically move down one line as if break were being pressed. So I pulled the board out and inspected all the pins and then plugged it back in. Same problem. Then I plugged in an older board made at ExpressPCB and every thing worked as it was suppose to?!?

 

So what was the problem? When I built the new TK-II-PB board, I also burned a fresh PIC chip. What I forgot about, is that the new PIC would initially have all its EEPROM parameter bytes set to defaults. So that meant that the POKEY KR1 and KR2 lines would be tri-stated (set to float). Since the 1200XL I was using didn't have its stock keyboard plugged in, that meant that there were no active pull-up resistors on those lines (the 1200XL keyboard is unique in that its key scanning mux chip circuit is integrated, similar to a XEGS). So by pressing CTRL+ALT+X I toggled into XEGS mode which forces a logic level high signal on the KR lines instead of relying on a pull-up resistor. Now it worked as it was suppose to. So although the KR1 line was passable in a floated state, the KR2 line was not, thus that was the reason that a break was also being sent out with the control, although erratically (POKEY's KR2 input is responsible for SHIFT, CTRL, and BREAK).

 

Lesson Learned: If your TK-II board is acting erratically or your stock keyboard is not working but TK-II's does, then check the state of XEGS Mode by pressing ALT+X (if you are planning on using the stock keyboard with TK-II, then XEGS Mode needs to be set to OFF, otherwise set it to ON when not using the stock keyboard on a 1200XL --- always set to ON for your XEGS computer). CTRL+ALT+X toggles the XEGS Mode.

 

- Michael

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good find Michael!

 

Or you could say TK-II was messing with me, perhaps testing the creator. I better watch out before it decides I need to be sterilized :-o

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6o881n35GU

 

I just hope I can talk TK-II into self destruct before that happens :grin:

 

- Michael

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Here's what an assembled OSH Park TK-II-PB looks like (and the one that had me concerned earlier through no fault of its own).

 

8163096_orig.jpg

The purple color is kinda growing on me, although it did remind me of Barney :grin:

 

- Michael

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TK-II-PB should plug into either a 600XL or 800XL with just a minor modification. Removal of 10uf electrolytic capacitor below right of POKEY chip (C012294), and replacement with the same, but longer leads that allow bending it over. And of course you need POKEY to be in a socket (always the case for a 600XL, but hit and miss on a 800XL). The only thing I'm not sure about is the stacking height and interference with the underside of the stock keyboard, although if used alone (no stereo board) it should work.

 

600XL

x8lEn5t.png

 

800XL

m0FNMtj.png

 

- Michael

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I started laying out yet another variation on the XEGS board. This one only has a single PS/2 connector, but is wired so that the mouse would still be connectable via a special 'Y' cord (same as Yogi's TK-II/SIO2PC-USB Hybrid Board, and also suggested by MrFish earlier in this thread). It provides for the option of using two right angle mounting brackets (Keystone 621) which makes it much more usable as a 'wire in' option, giving you the ability to mount it directly to the case. J2 is still setup for a D-SUB 15 connector, but it could also be soldered jumper wires instead. It is the smallest TK-II board layout to date, requiring very little space if installed internally, and very unobtrusive if plugged into the XEGS keyboard port. And I forget who mentioned it, but unlike the first XEGS version where the cords would have a sharp bend, this one allows for a straight shot from the front when used with the XEGS computer. I'll still keep the previous XEGS board version info and OSH Park order link on my website for those that prefer that design.

 

I must confess I got the idea for the mounting brackets from Steve Cardin, who is using a similar idea on his KRH-II boards ;-)

 

So for those that may be confused as to what this is really usable for, here is the straight and skinny...

 

If you have an XEGS, this will plug into the standard keyboard port on these machines. If you have some other 8-Bit Atari, and you can't fit the TK-II-PB board in place due to other upgrades at or close to POKEY or a non-socketed motherboard (130XE), then this new board can also be used as a solder in option, and be far cheaper as well (no Startech PS/2 connector cables required).

 

 

atQSq65.png

 

I'll be double checking the layout over the next few days, get it converted to gerbers, and then do a practice run through OSH Park. If all goes well, then it will be added to the collection (this will take around 3 weeks to verify).

 

- Michael

Edited by mytekcontrols
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AtariBits.com website doesn't want to load in the Chrome browser. Problem started about 2 days ago and I have a support ticket in with Weebly to try to get it fixed. Strangest thing is that it will load no problem in FireFox (haven't tried with MSIE). Sometimes a page will come up in a fragmented form, but other times just a blank page. Anyway just thought I'd let you guys know in case you were trying to access the TK-II Design Page and can't get through. Damm free websites sure don't give you your moneys worth :P

 

- Michael

 

P.S. I shrunk the new board design height down even more, and then sent it off to get gerberized.

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It opens normally, no delay no errors, with Chrome (windows 10 x64). Just checked.

madi

 

Must be something wrong on my end, although I checked it on 3 different machines and on my tablet with all the same results. maybe it's a Linux thing, because I don't run windows. Thank you Madi and Jon for checking and responding so quickly. Now I'll sit over here and scratch my head :???:

 

- Michael

Edited by mytekcontrols
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Hey all,

 

Got the pcbs from osh park, built the XEGS version.

Keyboard works great, and I can see the issues with mouse control.

Overall, pleased as punch. Great project! My xe/xl's thank you...

I still have to order some startech ports, but thinking of perf boarding a few sockets...

 

I'm going to try it on a 600xl, I've moved the cap to the bottom of board.

 

Fuji-Man

 

P.S. The web site has the XE and the Piggyback gerber files are switched around...

Edited by Fuji-Man
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Hey all,

 

Got the pcbs from osh park, built the XEGS version.

Keyboard works great, and I can see the issues with mouse control.

Overall, pleased as punch. Great project! My xe/xl's thank you...

I still have to order some startech ports, but thinking of perf boarding a few sockets...

 

I'm going to try it on a 600xl, I've moved the cap to the bottom of board.

 

Fuji-Man

 

P.S. The web site has the XE and the Piggyback gerber files are switched around...

 

Hi Fuji-Man,

 

When I get a chance, and develop a better strategy, I will likely re-look at the mouse code and see if I can improve upon it. No guarantees as to when this will be :( (POKEY, POKEY, POKEY, boy are you slow). But hey, at least I got the keyboard part working good, which after all was the original goal of this project. The mouse is currently extra fluff, and hopefully will mature into something better, but at least the connect-ability is there when and if it does.

 

If you don't mind do me a favor and snap some pics of your 600XL installation, and I'll put them up on the website.

 

Also thanks for the heads up on the file swap. it's all fixed now :)

 

 

BTW; I got the latest greatest board variation being made...

 

RPLPVBI.png

 

This one is very cute :lust: and tiny.

 

For direct wiring, I figure one of those D-Sub 15 crimp on male ribbon connectors could be used to mate with it, and then solder the fanned out wires at the end of the ribbon cable to the appropriate chip connections. just a thought :?

 

- Michael

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Hi Fuji-Man,

 

When I get a chance, and develop a better strategy, I will likely re-look at the mouse code and see if I can improve upon it. No guarantees as to when this will be :( (POKEY, POKEY, POKEY, boy are you slow). But hey, at least I got the keyboard part working good, which after all was the original goal of this project. The mouse is currently extra fluff, and hopefully will mature into something better, but at least the connect-ability is there when and if it does.

 

If you don't mind do me a favor and snap some pics of your 600XL installation, and I'll put them up on the website.

 

Also thanks for the heads up on the file swap. it's all fixed now :)

 

 

BTW; I got the latest greatest board variation being made...

 

RPLPVBI.png

 

This one is very cute :lust: and tiny.

 

For direct wiring, I figure one of those D-Sub 15 crimp on male ribbon connectors could be used to mate with it, and then solder the fanned out wires at the end of the ribbon cable to the appropriate chip connections. just a thought :?

 

- Michael

Just got my boards in today :)

As I was reading the latest posts, I noticed something. Haven't crossed checked with the DIN part you are using but my mini DIN foot print is reversed from yours. On mine, the signal pads are towards the board 'center' and the Case tabs are closest to the board 'edge'.

Looks very good and easy to install.

Yogi

Edited by Van
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Just got my boards in today :)

As I was reading the latest posts, I noticed something. Haven't crossed checked with the DIN part you are using but my mini DIN foot print is reversed from yours. On mine, the signal pads are towards the board 'center' and the Case tabs are closest to the board 'edge'.

Looks very good and easy to install.

Yogi

 

F_____K!!! :mad: It must have happened when I flipped the orientation, and accidentally mirrored it. Yours is right, mine is wrong. Thanks for the heads up, now to go fix it ($20 down the drain :(). On the plus side it'll be easier to get the traces to the pins without the mounting holes in the way :-D .

 

- Michael

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F_____K!!! :mad: It must have happened when I flipped the orientation, and accidentally mirrored it. Yours is right, mine is wrong. Thanks for the heads up, now to go fix it ($20 down the drain :(). On the plus side it'll be easier to get the traces to the pins without the mounting holes in the way :-D .

 

- Michael

Bummer, $hi+ happens :( I was hoping I was wrong. But it's not a total loss, can still use the boards with a panel mount mini DIN; just have to custom wire to the footprint.

Size wise, it's perfect. Should fit in the most cramped/modded out case.

Yogi

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Bummer, $hi+ happens :( I was hoping I was wrong. But it's not a total loss, can still use the boards with a panel mount mini DIN; just have to custom wire to the footprint.

Size wise, it's perfect. Should fit in the most cramped/modded out case.

Yogi

 

Was able to reach OSH Park in time and got the order cancelled :grin:

 

Thanks again for the quick heads up. Now I'll see if the gerber translate service will also give me a break (fingers crossed).

 

- Michael

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It works fine for me in Chrome 46.0.2490.80 m on XP 32 SP3.

Maybe Weebly is a little wobbly. :)

 

I think my brain is more wobbly :grin:

 

 

Round Two: TK-II-XEGS-S ('S' as in single PS/2 connector)

 

b6fe9c097d98cde463b0814a63d93929.png3d1b6e5dea686d502b3a92c5eb4ea063.png

 

SVOEEjG.png

 

Looking good :)

 

- Michael

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Looks fine here in Chrome.

 

 

 

It opens normally, no delay no errors, with Chrome (windows 10 x64). Just checked.

madi

 

 

It works fine for me in Chrome 46.0.2490.80 m on XP 32 SP3.

Maybe Weebly is a little wobbly. :)

 

Ok here is where it gets interesting. Both at my shop and my home I can no longer load the AtariBits website, except when using Firefox. Chrome no worky. Also tested with a laptop using Win7 (other machines were with Linux Mint 17.2), and it fails on all 3 browsers (Chrome, FireFox, IE). Now this weekend I am up in my cabin in Pollock Pines and on another Linux Mint computer, I have no problems what-so-ever on either Chrome or FireFox. What's the difference? My shop and home have AT&T internet, my cabin is on Comcast. So it would appear that perhaps the ISP is blocking this when using AT&T. Does anyone have a clue as to why this would be so?

 

I tried clearing the cache, turning off all privacy settings, prefetch, and anything else I could think of that could be interfering to no avail. The fact that I have an identical build of Linux Mint and the latest version of Chrome on both the working and non-working systems really says something else is amiss.

 

I know this post is a bit off topic, but I would still appreciate knowing why this is happening. And it certainly does interfere with me doing cross browser checks on the website where the TK data is stored.

 

Thanks for your feedback provided thus far.

 

- Michael

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Hey

 

Okay here are my installation pictures on a 600xl. Sorry about size.

 

 

 

 

 

The size is fine (gives me better results when scaling it). I'll have to take a look at a 600XL without the console switch connections, to get a better idea of what they are soldered to (I have a hi-rez image already, probably use it to do a before and after). BTW, I like your use of ribbon cable, keeps things really neat. And what an interesting take on the PS/2 connectors, never would have thought of doing something like that (just gave me an idea for making another PCB with the PS/2 and a ribbon connector like you proto'ed) , but I am curious about the reason for it being so elevated?

 

And if I could trouble you to take one more photo slightly higher and a bit to the left of what is shown in the 3rd photo, and angled to capture everything including a complete view of your connector board.

 

Thanks so much for posting these :thumbsup:

 

Also let me know if you catch any problems with the keyboard implementation, since you probably use your Atari more than I use mine (taking awhile for me to get back into the groove after being away for 20 years). Also if you have any questions about the features, please let me know since I never put together any sort of manual.

 

- Michael

Edited by mytekcontrols
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