Xf551 missed part?

[enito]

Hi i Just received This xf551 drive. I opened cause i feel a free piece. I show in photo the piece , i power on and i listen a brrrrr brrrr sound. The green light is power. Hope you can guide if This sound is normal, and the piece i show is from drive or not. Thanks.

 

https://s33.postimg.org/s0k820ci7/IMAG0357.jpg

 

 

 

Enviado desde mi HTC One M9 mediante Tapatalk

[Dropcheck]

That part is always coming loose from the drive mech. I forget exactly where it needs to be reattached. Someone else probably can tell you where to put it back on.

 

It's not required to reattach it, but probably is best if you do. Mine work without that part on.

[enito]

Hi Dropcheck, thx for the reply, perfect..can works without this..But about the brrr brrrr sound is normal when is powered? or need some clean and lubricate mechanism?

 

Here some post about missed piece:

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/219957-xf551-part-question-help/

 

Is like a head protection for dust,

 

Greets

Edited June 11, 2016 by enito

[adam242]

Had the same issue with my XF551.

 

See this thread...

[Dropcheck]

Hi Dropcheck, thx for the reply, perfect..can works without this..But about the brrr brrrr sound is normal when is powered? or need some clean and lubricate mechanism?

 

Here some post about missed piece:

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/219957-xf551-part-question-help/

 

Is like a head protection for dust,

 

Greets

 

On all disk drives of the era there was some noise at startup and when the disk drive accessed the disk. The XF551 is quieter than the 1050 by far normally. It is common to forget the drive is on, mainly because there is no power on light on the front, only a drive mech access light. Where it becomes abnormal is when the sound continues for more than 10/15 seconds at power on. Or is louder than a 1050.

 

It's hard to troubleshoot a sound especially when you can't hear it yourself. Do you have the ability to do a Youtube video?

[Bryan]

That's the metal shield over the top head. It's attached by pieces of foam that disintegrate over time. I just used some elastic-type adhesive to put it back on.

[enito]

Perfect, thx for the reply about the piece, i try to fix with adhesive, now i show you via youtube link the sound when is powered, i think is a bit louder sound more of normal noise.

 

[1050]

That's the head seeking probably track zero and that sensor isn't working so it's hammering against the rail stops. This would be enough to shake that little tin piece right off there too.

 

Pull the top and do it again to confirm that the head is seeking the outer most area of the disk. I do believe we have a track zero sensor malfunction. You can pull the head to the center portion and then turn it on, while traveling it will do so very quietly, but as soon as it's out of rope, here comes the buzz. A different 360K mech will fix it usually or you can attack it by parts too. Track zero sensor might just be unplugged too. Give us the mech (mechanical drive part) part number, quite a few were mitsumi D503.

[Dropcheck]

That's the head seeking probably track zero and that sensor isn't working so it's hammering against the rail stops. This would be enough to shake that little tin piece right off there too.

 

Pull the top and do it again to confirm that the head is seeking the outer most area of the disk. I do believe we have a track zero sensor malfunction. You can pull the head to the center portion and then turn it on, while traveling it will do so very quietly, but as soon as it's out of rope, here comes the buzz. A different 360K mech will fix it usually or you can attack it by parts too. Track zero sensor might just be unplugged too. Give us the mech (mechanical drive part) part number, quite a few were mitsumi D503.

 

I agree with 1050. That is not normal for an XF551 or even a 1050.

[enito]

I removed the track zero looks fine, but apprently thats the problem, i remove and same effect . Where i can find a sensor or make a new one? thx for any tip .In a post i find this sensor for 1050 can replace,

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electronic-components/CNZ1023/CNZ1023-ND/385882

 

Not sure if can works with xf551.

 

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/159930-dying-xf551/

 

I found this sensor in aliexpress,

 

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/The-transmission-type-photoelectric-switch-CNZ1023/32382060129.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.2.3jPLSD&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_2_10037_10017_507_10032,searchweb201603_11&btsid=64698da2-3c10-491e-99d0-f2bcc9e768a4

 

thx for your time

Edited June 21, 2016 by enito

[1050]

Your DigiKey link is for an obsolete part, it is no longer available.

But aliexpress link appears to be a winner.

on1023.pdf

 

You will have to unsolder your current thin film connector from the bad one and resolder the thin film

connector to this replacement and you should double check the polarity of the diode symbol on the

upper bracket to ensure it's in the proper orientation.

 

Best Electronics will have the exact replacement, but end of the day his minimum order amount is higher

than aliexpress. Part number CB102684 $15, called XF551 Transport Track 00 Sensor.

With a note to call him to see about availability issue.

http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/

 

Let us know what you decide to do. Although Best shows two different track zero

sensors for the 1050 depending on where they were made, what I can grab up and look

at within reach are very similar to the panasonic on1023 and I believe I would

attempt to repair a 1050 with one too.

[+Larry]

Sounds like a 1541 on steroids!

-Larry

[enito]

Hi thx for the tips, btw, i removed the zero sensor and do it diode measurement with pin 1 and 2 and i get one right read, thats if im not bad, diode es good? not sure if the pins of atari sensor is like the same of replacement, but i assume because i get read in one direction only.

 

greets!

Edited June 21, 2016 by enito

[1050]

Trouble with that approach is that the photo transistor will also have a junction

and may behave as a diode too under a multimeter diagnosis. One trick that

can be used is to observe IR light coming from the top bracket with the aid

of an electronic camera such as a phone camera, VHS recorder, GoPro, etc.

 

The camera will pick up what the human eye can not see and if there is light,

then the IR LED is working fine and the issue must then be with photo transistor

in the bottom bracket. We are dealing with .3 mm slits though and with the

light shining down it might be somewhat difficult to determine if a good LED

is even working. One usually has to fire an IR remote control right at the

camera in order to see the IR light it makes. Almost no spill over with

such a weak source, but it is possible to see it with the aid of an

electronic camera.

 

Other possible problem could easily be the thin film connector. Perhaps

it was always marginally inserted into the jack and the real problem is

that it's just not plugged in fully? Very hard to find an intermittent

connection in these types of thin film connectors too, works fine when

you look at it, turn your head or hold your tongue wrong and it quits.

Top part of the jack lifts up 3 mm to allow full insertion, then you

press the jack back together and this action clamps the connections

together.

 

Polarity and pin outs should be the same between original part and

panasonic on1023, but of course check as best you can. I would

attempt to view the IR light with the sensor unscrewed from the

frame so it can be 'aimed' at the camera better. If you have light

coming from the top bracket, that IR LED in there is fine.

Whether pin 1 and pin 2 can measure as a good diode and still not

produce light is a question I do not have an answer for, I just

don't know.

[enito]

Finally part arrived, soldered and tested..and same trouble apprently sensor is not the bad thing..i try to search some pins reference of original part for compare to new one..any tip?

 

thx!

[1050]

Can you post pictures of it assembled as that might help. A magnifying glass sometimes helps my camera get closer before it looses focus, might try that. I would be looking to blame/test the flex connection that had to be soldered to the new part. Very hard to see a crack in the flex trace that is the width of a hair too, but there might be this kind of damage or a bad terminal that has no contact at all? I would be using analog voltmeter for this work as digital VOM might not react fast enough. Better would be a self powered LED 'test light' system that was constantly lit while you flex the flex cable watching for the light to go out.