Black Retro Joystick by Arcade Forge

[Andromeda Stardust]

So I was considering getting into the builders' market by making arcade controllers out of cigar boxes and decided to check out the vastly more expensive competition.

 

At the top of the list was the 7800 Pro system controller at $225. It is truly the Roles Royce of 7800 controllers:

http://classicjoysticks.com/?page_id=36

 

This was followed by Edladdin controllers, all in the $120-$180 range:

http://edladdin.com/Atari-2600-7800-Controllers_c2.htm

 

A fast sexy sell out last year from Rose Colored Gaming for $99:

http://forums.atari.io/index.php/topic/793-rose-colored-gamings-new-atari-2600-arcade-joystick/

 

Then there's this cute little fellow for about 60€ Euro:

http://arcadeforge.net/Joysticks/Black-Retro-Joystick::210.html

 

By far this was the cheapest option I could find online for custom made Atari sticks using real arcade parts. I did a Google search but couldn't find any reviews for it, so I took a chance and bought one, mainly because I'm curious about the build quality, and also because it's cute. I think this is the most I've ever spend on a controller I didn't build myself. Cost about ~$81 USD to import thanks to the low exchange rate.

 

Anybody here have experience with Arcade Forge? I'll be sure to do a review, and possible tear down (if it can be opened non-destructively) when I recieve it.

[AW127]

Anybody here have experience with Arcade Forge? I'll be sure to do a review, and possible tear down (if it can be opened non-destructively) when I recieve it.

Read this review here from a german forum, it`s exactly the same stick you talked about, just with different colors:

https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=de&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fforum.gp2x.de%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ff%3D70%26t%3D17920&edit-text=

 

I linked it with an english translation from Google-translater.

 

The user wrote, that the SANWA joystick-unit itself is superb, but the quality of the case was very bad with sharp edges and so on (look at the photos there). I don`t know if all these sticks have the problem or just some of them? But the user also wrote, that the seller (Arcade Forge) dont react on lots of his Emails when he reclaims the bad workmanship of the joystick-case. Sounds not so good.

Edited September 12, 2016 by AW127

[hizzy]

Making a joystick is dead easy. Order Atari wires from best, or use wires from an old 9 pin controller. Buy a stick you like, buttons your like, and find an enclosure. A good stick is about 25 bucks. Buttons 2 or 3 dollars. Wiring is cheap. The enclosure is the most complex. I'm meeting with a guy who makes kitchen cabinets to build a box to put it all in, but there are way cheaper options.

[Andromeda Stardust]

Making a joystick is dead easy. Order Atari wires from best, or use wires from an old 9 pin controller. Buy a stick you like, buttons your like, and find an enclosure. A good stick is about 25 bucks. Buttons 2 or 3 dollars. Wiring is cheap. The enclosure is the most complex. I'm meeting with a guy who makes kitchen cabinets to build a box to put it all in, but there are way cheaper options.

I agree that building an enclosure is the hardest part. So let someone else build it for you. Hence why I fielded interest in building a run of joysticks in cigar boxes of all things!

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/256709-homemade-cigar-box-arcade-controllers/

 

I have a supplier (tobacco shop) who can provide me with cigar boxes at $5 a pop (these boxes, many of them highly ornate, would be thrown in the garbage otherwise), and have determined I need 1.75" clearance underneath the bottom of the lid top for the Japanese style joysticks I plan on using (Simitsu clone with 4/8 way removable restrictor plate).

[Andromeda Stardust]

Read this review here from a german forum, it`s exactly the same stick you talked about, just with different colors:

https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=de&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fforum.gp2x.de%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ff%3D70%26t%3D17920&edit-text=

 

I linked it with an english translation from Google-translater.

 

The user wrote, that the SANWA joystick-unit itself is superb, but the quality of the case was very bad with sharp edges and so on (look at the photos there). I don`t know if all these sticks have the problem or just some of them? But the user also wrote, that the seller (Arcade Forge) dont react on lots of his Emails when he reclaims the bad workmanship of the joystick-case. Sounds not so good.

Okay this does not bode well. Barring the long shipping times, sharp edges, and unfinished wood surfaces mentioned on the second page of this thread (if mine requires actual sanding after I receive it, I will be disappointed), there is the "uncanny valley" of joystick controllers which this device seems to fall into.

 

It appears there are three ways to build a retro game joystick:

 

1) Handheld - Player holds the joystick in one hand while steering it with the other. Fire button is actuated by wrapping around the thumb on the hand holding the joystick. Example: CX-40

 

2) Tabletop or lap - Player sits or stands with the joystick firmly positioned on a table top, or sits with the joystick in his/her lap. Example: NES Advantage

 

3) Gamepad - Cross shaped D-pad and buttons opperated by opposing thumbs. Example: NES controller

 

Okay there's really two ways as the third type is not considered a "joystick". My previous controller builds using arcade parts are modeled after original gamepads or joysticks but are scaled such that they fit nicely into the second category. In fact despite the weight from using 1/2" plywood, they fit nicely in my lap and are not uncomfortable to use sitting down.

 

Examples (gallery links in my sig):

 

 

A category 1 joystick must be lightweight, small, and have low actuation pressure to be usable. CX-40s are a bit stiff for my liking but they do function and a variety of vintage joysticks were produced that address the shortcomings of the VCS stick. A category 2 joystick must have a sufficiently large base and enough mass that it can sit firmly on a tabletop without sliding around due to lateral forces applied to the joystick.

 

Based on the translated German forum link, the aforementioned joystick fails to be lightweight and low profile enough for use as a catagory 1 stick, and also fails to be large and robust enough for use as a category 2 joystick. Thus it falls in the uncanny valley between them, being ill suited for either mode of operation.

 

I do have large "man hands" so maybe I can probably hold it like a cat 1 but I doubt the sharp edges would be comfortable for long. Cat 2 may cause the joystick to flop over due to insufficient mass or bass size. The likely workaround would be to place the joystick on a lap or tabletop while bracing it in one hand, thumb securing the stick with the finger firing the button, and the other hand operating the joystick. Please excuse the crappy MS-Paint diagram.

 

I'll give a detailed review and teardown when mine arrives but I hope I didn't just order a lemon.

[hizzy]

I hope you make some controllers. There are not enough cool, affordable ones out there. Best of luck!

[Asaki]

I bought one of these for dirt cheap a while back (should've bought two). One of these days I'll get around to tearing it open, adding start/select buttons to it, and modding it to work with different consoles.

[AW127]

... there is the "uncanny valley" of joystick controllers which this device seems to fall into.

Yeah, sadly the case of this stick can not match the very good quality of the implemented SANWA JLF-TP-8YT joystick-unit. The JLF-TP-8YT itself, is really very stable, precise and wide-spread in arcade-machines all around the world and i really like the good steering-qualitys of this arcade-unit. But what helps this, when the selfmade case of this seller can not match up the quality of the implemented original arcade-parts? Such a great arcade joystick-unit like the JLF-TP-8YT needs a better processed case surrounding it.

 

I bought one of these for dirt cheap a while back ...

Some nice joysticks in the last entrys of the thread. But they all have the same problem - they are for people who wants to steer with the left hand. I personally can not play good in this way and can play much better with the right hand. When i play in arcade-halls i always cross the arms.

[Andromeda Stardust]

Yeah, sadly the case of this stick can not match the very good quality of the implemented SANWA JLF-TP-8YT joystick-unit. The JLF-TP-8YT itself, is really very stable, precise and wide-spread in arcade-machines all around the world and i really like the good steering-qualitys of this arcade-unit. But what helps this, when the selfmade case of this seller can not match up the quality of the implemented original arcade-parts? Such a great arcade joystick-unit like the JLF-TP-8YT needs a better processed case surrounding it.

Not sure why I ordered the thing. Maybe I wanted to see what the build quality was like or collect items crafted by others. I'll admit I have not tried the Sanwa joystick so I may fall in love with it IDK.

 

My joystick experience is as follows:

 

• Ultimarc Magstik Plus: Rubbish - springless joystick uses magnet to self center - easy to actuate but very little throw and abrupt end of travel. You can switch modes by pulling the lever and rotating however the plastic nut used to switch modes tends to wear with time and becomes more difficult to switch. It has it's fans but I can't picture myself using one again.
• OmniStik2: Extremely light actuation pressure. Rotating actuator plate allows for quick selection of 8-way square or 4-way diamond by lifting up the control panel. Excellent options for MAME cabs with easy access under the control panel.
• Happ Competition: Thick plastic construction. Needs 3 inches space under the CP and long stick suitable for 3/4" plywood or MDF panels. Great durable bat handle joystick with circular restriction and strong spring for ham-fisted players. A bit inaccurate on the diagonals (it is easy to hit diagonal when you don't intend to or hit cardinal when you want to do diagonal) but overall solid performer. Has some rebound issues (pulling or slapping the joystick all the way in one direction and releasing it will momentarily actuate the opposite direction).
• Simitsu clones (Zippy, Paradise Arcade joystick): Japan style, low profile, inexpensive, replaceable 6mm balltop, come with a restrictor plate which can be set for 8-way square or 4-way clover (requires Phillips screwdriver). Great performer for price. Rod is a bit short for wood panels even if you purchase the "long" versions.

Yet to try, but probably need to:

• Sanwa: Seems to have great reviews online. Being able to feel all corners with the octagonal restrictor plate seems like it would be the perfect compromise between 4-way and 8-way gameplay with no user adjustment, especially for those who tend to "ride the gate".

Some nice joysticks in the last entrys of the thread. But they all have the same problem - they are for people who wants to steer with the left hand. I personally can not play good in this way and can play much better with the right hand. When i play in arcade-halls i always cross the arms.

Well it is partly a generational thing. Gaming is largely an ambidextrous process much like typing. Look at the designs of the PS Dual Shock and the Wii-U Pro. They are almost perfectly symmetrical.

 

You grew up playing a joystick in the right hand so that is what you want. Most current "retro" gamers grew up with the NES Dpad so steering with the left feels natural. I even steer my car the majority of the time with my left hand, using the right to steady the wheel during turns. Someday I'll get a car with a manual shift so my right hand (as well as my left foot) will feel important and have something to do.

 

Since playing on my ambidextrous Atari joystick, I find myself steering more frequently with the right hand and hammering the FIRE button with my left. But for games that have multiple action buttons, I find the enhanced dexterity provided by my right hand gives me an advantage. Most modern "fight sticks" map out the four action buttons and all four triggers to eight buttons. Some games place the "diamond" in the center with triggers on the sides, while others place the diamond to the left to be actuated by the dominant fingers (index and middle) with the lesser used triggers controlled by the ring and pinky. I personally am a purist and cannot find a use for more than six buttons for any game up through the 16-bit era including MAME.

 

Accessing six or more buttons with my left hand would be very confusing. The joystick is a single device that requires a good amount of dexterity which is greater than a single button but significantly less than an array of buttons. So my preference for playing on my Atari gravitates towards using my right hand to joystick, whereas any game that requires multiple buttons I use the classic joystick left layout. While I eat and write with my right hand, a lot of activities such as typing or gaming are ambidextrous to me. I even switch off when using power tools as one arm gets tired switch to the other.

 

Take care and good luck in finding your dream "righty" joystick!

 

I hope you make some controllers. There are not enough cool, affordable ones out there. Best of luck!

Thanks! I may yet do a small run of left and right-handed single button cigar box joysticks...

[hizzy]

I just got a Seimitsu LS 40, and I like the feel. I will be putting it in a wood box with Sanwa buttons. I have happ, sanwa & seimitsu buttons handy. I like the screw in buttons from an installer's pov.

[+sramirez2008]

Some nice joysticks in the last entrys of the thread. But they all have the same problem - they are for people who wants to steer with the left hand. I personally can not play good in this way and can play much better with the right hand. When i play in arcade-halls i always cross the arms.

 

A couple of possible solutions for you...first one is from UberArcade. You can order right or left handed stick.

 

http://atariage.com/forums/gallery/image/15181-7800-prosystem-joystick/

 

 

This next stick is ambidextrous and allows for quick change from 4-way to 8-way gaming, from Edladdin Controllers.

 

http://atariage.com/forums/gallery/image/16157-supreme-78-all-play-48/

[Asaki]

Most current "retro" gamers grew up with the NES Dpad so steering with the left feels natural.

I don't know, I started on 2600, and we got an NES when I was 4 or 5...I don't remember it ever being weird switching hands, I only remember having to stare at my controller while I played because having TWO buttons instead of one changed everything.

 

Almost a decade later, we finally got into the PC game, and then you're right back to right hand for directions, and left hand for buttons. But I was kind of weird, because we got a joystick for it, but I have to use it with my left hand.

 

I actually rewired an Atari joystick once to have the button on the right side, but it just felt completely wrong, and I put it back to how it was.

 

When i play in arcade-halls i always cross the arms.

Geeze, I can't imagine that being comfortable at all =)

[Cynicaster]

I’ve got a pair of Groovy Game Gear Dominux-8 sticks in my MAME cabinet ( http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=407) and they’re pretty sweet for most classic arcade style games.

 

If you don’t insist on leaf springs, then IMO it’s very difficult to beat the value of the Happ Competition. You can get one for about $10, they last a long time, and they work nicely on a broad range of games. I had them on my MAME cabinet for years and loved them; I only upgraded to the Dominux sticks to get a better Robotron experience (which I did). I’ve still got Happ Comps on my pedestal cabinet in my garage, which uses an upgraded X-Arcade tank-stick as the control panel. The Comps are bolt-on upgrades to the X-Arcade, and infinitely better than the stock sticks.

[AW127]

Geeze, I can't imagine that being comfortable at all =)

It was not comfortable thats right, but it worked well and i was really good on some action Arcade-machines playing this way. Puzzle games for example i can also steer good with left hand, in such games it doesn`t matter for me. But fast action-games or especially fighting-games where i must make quarter-circles or half-circles to activate special-moves, i can play much better with right hand. It`s like Kosmic Stardust wrote before, how the user grew up and learned playing and it`s hard to switch the playing-hand later.

 

Take care and good luck in finding your dream "righty" joystick!

Yes, i know it`s not easy to find an Arcade-stick that has the controlstick on the right side inherently. Nearly all of the big Arcade-sticks comes with left-hand joystick, but it can easily be solved. For example by:

 

- using a controller-adapter that has a buttonmapping that switches steering-directions. For example adapters like the Raphnet SNES-to-PSX or SNES-to-Megadrive can do this. Then the user simply choose this mapping and turn around the Arcade-stick. Works good

 

- another way for example is using such a cable here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGUFRtBVYU4

it switches the directions and user then again turn around the stick

 

- third way is using a controller-adapter which has the ability that the user can remap the buttons by himself and then save this new buttonmapping. for example the Kipper2K PSX-to-9Pin adapter can do this. the user then can change the steering-directions by himself and also turn the stick. This remapping-function is a cool thing by the way, because you can make crazy mappings. I played "Lotus 2" on the Amiga with the Kipper2K-PSX-adapter and steered the car with the right analog-stick on the PSX-controller. Accelerate and brake i mapped to the d-pad on the left side of the stick. works good this way

 

A couple of possible solutions for you...first one is from UberArcade. You can order right or left handed stick.

 

http://atariage.com/forums/gallery/image/15181-7800-prosystem-joystick/

 

 

This next stick is ambidextrous and allows for quick change from 4-way to 8-way gaming, from Edladdin Controllers.

 

http://atariage.com/forums/gallery/image/16157-supreme-78-all-play-48/

Two interesting sticks, especially the "7800 Prosystem" stick looks good and stable. But the price is also not cheap. I solved the right-hand thing with the solutions i mentioned further up and i am satisfied with this until now. Edited September 17, 2016 by AW127

[Skippy B. Coyote]

The past year or so I've been doing all my Atari 2600 and 7800 gaming via emulation on the Wii since I sold off my Atari collection last year, which was a decision I later came to seriously regret; believe me. But, on the upside of things, along the way I ended up spending a lot of time playing Atari with my wife's custom Wii arcade stick (picture and parts list in the spoiler tag below):

 

 

 

Mad Catz Tatsunoko vs Capcom Wii Fight Stick

- Seimitsu PS-14-KN Buttons

- Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT Joystick

- Sanwa JLF Octagonal Restrictor Gate

- Paradise Arcade Shop Custom Purple Anodized Aluminum Joystick Bat Top

- Paradise Arcade Shop Custom Fuchsia Anodized Aluminum Shaft & Dust Cover

 

 

 

What I learned from this experience is that after playing Atari with a lap sized arcade stick with real high quality arcade parts I'd never want to go back to using handheld joysticks like the CX-40, Wico Command Control, Competition Pro, or any of the other handheld sticks I used to play games with ever again. For me personally it is vastly more comfortable to play with a big arcade stick sitting in my lap and hand cramps (not to mention the carpal tunnel pain I used to get) are now a thing of the past. I find the controls to be a lot more precise when using high quality arcade parts as well, and while I'm not entirely convinced that a Sanwa JLF stick and Seimitsu buttons are the best parts to play Atari with they're still miles ahead of anything I used to play with. Personally I think what I'd like the best are a Industrias Lorenzo Compact 8-Way stick with Industrias Lorenzo concave buttons (with 50g microswitches), but hey, it's my wife's controller so I have to work with what she likes the feel of.

 

At this point I'm really itching to rebuild my old Atari collection and get back into playing on real hardware, I'm just having a hard time finding someone with the tools and skills to build the kind of controller that I'd like to play with. I love the professional look of UberArcade's offering for 7800 shown at the top of the page, and I might be able to get into using a JLF with all the modifications that he's done to it, but the price of $225 would be pretty tough for my budget. On the other hand, it's really the only professional looking option for a lap sized dedicated Atari 2600 / 7800 controller out there right now. Every other option available has top mounted screws securing the joystick to the housing, and the moment I see screw heads poking out of the top of the case I immediately say "Nope!" Screw heads poking out of the areas where you rest your hand aren't going to make for a comfortable gaming experience, so ultimately I may end up having to shell out for one of UberArcade's sticks (if they're still available by the time I can save up the money for one) or see if I can track down someone who offers custom arcade stick enclosures that can tailor the layout and top panel graphics to the Atari 2600 or 7800.

Edited September 18, 2016 by Jin

[hizzy]

I have been ordering all kinds of parts to build myself a stick. You'll find that it's really easy. Right now, I am building a Pac-man only stick with an LS-40. I have a carpenter building the enclosure for me. I don't like screws on top, so I am installing the LS 40 with an S plate. It's really easy. Give it a shot!

[AW127]

One Arcadestick i really want to mention here because of it`s fantastic price/performance back in the time, is the "SNES TOPFIGHTER".

 

 

I bought a new one of these in the middle of the 90`s when the SNES had it`s prime-time. Cost me about 65,- DM german mark (which would now be about 33,- EURO). Like it can be seen on the picture, the stick is very stable, in a solid medal-case and it uses microswitches which are very easy to exchange if one is broken. The buttons are superb and have a very good counterpressure and i saw exactly these buttons on some arcade-machines back in the days. Very good price/performance for about 33,- EURO back in the time and the stick still is in good condition. The stick also offers the possibility, to record steering- and button-combinations and then map it to a button. This is mostly good for fighting-games, but i dont use this much, because it gives a very big advantage about the opponents and it`s easy to win then. But nevertheless a cool feature.

 

Back in the days i changed the steering-directions by changing the microswitches along with the cables, which was very easy with this stick. Then i could turn it and steer with right hand. Later i use the stick with different "SNES to ..." controller-adapters also on other consoles and computers. This is really a good arcadestick and it can be found on the internet even today, but sadly only for more money than 33,- EURO`s.

Edited September 18, 2016 by AW127

[Andromeda Stardust]

It was not comfortable thats right, but it worked well and i was really good on some action Arcade-machines playing this way. Puzzle games for example i can also steer good with left hand, in such games it doesn`t matter for me. But fast action-games or especially fighting-games where i must make quarter-circles or half-circles to activate special-moves, i can play much better with right hand. It`s like Kosmic Stardust wrote before, how the user grew up and learned playing and it`s hard to switch the playing-hand later.

 

Yes, i know it`s not easy to find an Arcade-stick that has the controlstick on the right side inherently. Nearly all of the big Arcade-sticks comes with left-hand joystick, but it can easily be solved. For example by:

 

- using a controller-adapter that has a buttonmapping that switches steering-directions. For example adapters like the Raphnet SNES-to-PSX or SNES-to-Megadrive can do this. Then the user simply choose this mapping and turn around the Arcade-stick. Works good

 

- another way for example is using such a cable here:

it switches the directions and user then again turn around the stick

 

- third way is using a controller-adapter which has the ability that the user can remap the buttons by himself and then save this new buttonmapping. for example the Kipper2K PSX-to-9Pin adapter can do this. the user then can change the steering-directions by himself and also turn the stick. This remapping-function is a cool thing by the way, because you can make crazy mappings. I played "Lotus 2" on the Amiga with the Kipper2K-PSX-adapter and steered the car with the right analog-stick on the PSX-controller. Accelerate and brake i mapped to the d-pad on the left side of the stick. works good this way

 

Two interesting sticks, especially the "7800 Prosystem" stick looks good and stable. But the price is also not cheap. I solved the right-hand thing with the solutions i mentioned further up and i am satisfied with this until now.

One thing you might find useful, if you really want a right hand joystick:

http://www.retrobuiltgames.com/diy-kits-shop/arcade-fight-stick-v3/

 

The Arcade fight stick v3 by Retro Built Games. If you are in need of a MAME controller, this one comes recommended. The mount holes in the base are pre-drilled for a Raspberry Pi but you can easily install a USB-to-keyboard or USB-to-HID-Joypad board inside if you don't mind drilling a couple extra holes in the wedge that mounts to the Pi. I installed a Cthulhu USB in mine. Mine is assembled for standard left-hand use and I plugged up the two rightmost buttons because I don't need them for MAME / Retro use.

 

Reason I bring this up is it's a wonderful DIY kit that works with standard Happ/IL plunger style buttons. The control panel is almost symmetrical and completely reversible (flip over from left hand to right hand) if you drill two extra screw holes in the CP for the mounting lugs. There are two 1/4" panels in the control panel that would normally be glued together but if you don't glue them, they can be reversed for right or left hand use. The Happ button lug nuts do a decent job holding the CP in place if you choose not to glue it.

 

Right hand assembly test:

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/223203-do-you-use-a-homebrew-joystick-post-your-pics/?p=3339718

 

 

I’ve got a pair of Groovy Game Gear Dominux-8 sticks in my MAME cabinet ( http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=407) and they’re pretty sweet for most classic arcade style games.

 

If you don’t insist on leaf springs, then IMO it’s very difficult to beat the value of the Happ Competition. You can get one for about $10, they last a long time, and they work nicely on a broad range of games. I had them on my MAME cabinet for years and loved them; I only upgraded to the Dominux sticks to get a better Robotron experience (which I did). I’ve still got Happ Comps on my pedestal cabinet in my garage, which uses an upgraded X-Arcade tank-stick as the control panel. The Comps are bolt-on upgrades to the X-Arcade, and infinitely better than the stock sticks.

Happs are definitely nice solid joysticks with heavy spring tension and can hold to a lot of abuse, however they have a couple caveats: Firstly their high profile, nearly 3 inches below the panel, so you'll need a deep enclosure of at least three inches for clearance. There's also no ball-top option unless you want to pay a premium for custom mods. Secondly, they tend to suffer a bit from recoil, meaning if you tilt or slap the joystick all the way in one direction and release it, the opposite direction will sometimes momentarily make contact. It's a non-issue if you keep your hand on the stick at all times, but something to consider. That said, my custom NES arcade box (which I recently rebuilt), SNES arcade box, and 7800 arcade box all now use Happ Comp with Versa-Ball 2 tops.

 

I'm using the low profile Paradise Arcade joysticks in my upcoming cigar box controllers. Spring is fairly lightwieght and very easy to hit all 8 directions. The plastic restrictor plate has Semitsu molded into it and it appears to be Japanese origin ie not clone. You can switch it from 8-way to 4-way with a Phillips screwdriver. They are great little low-profile sticks but like most Japanese sticks, the balltop shaft is a bit short so it won't work well or look right in a thick wooden control panel. Zippy Stick has similar construction but I think I like the feel of the Paradise Arcade stick slightly better.

 

While there's no limit to the amount of money you can spend on a Joystick, it goes to show that affordable sticks that work well are available. Money does not equal performance. Some joysticks out there using exotic technology (such as the Ultimark Mag-Stik Plus) are expensive rubbish IMO. I was dumb enough to buy two of those clunkers at $37 each plus balltop upgrades (+$14 each) before I got rid of them in my custom arcade sticks.

 

I replaced the Atari controller with a 4-way/8-way Omni-Stik 2 which I modded with a custom pulley system to switch modes:

I totally should have filed a patent for that one. LOL!

 

Lastly, if you are a fan of Happ/IL plunger style buttons but find the included E-switches lacking, you can pick them up at GroovyGameGear with soft touch switches preinstalled for no additional charge. I now buy all my buttons from there, except for the Cigar boxes which use low-profile Simitsu switches.

[hizzy]

I'm using the low profile Paradise Arcade joysticks in my upcoming cigar box controllers. Spring is fairly lightwieght and very easy to hit all 8 directions. The plastic restrictor plate has Semitsu molded into it and it appears to be Japanese origin ie not clone. You can switch it from 8-way to 4-way with a Phillips screwdriver. They are great little low-profile sticks but like most Japanese sticks, the balltop shaft is a bit short so it won't work well or look right in a thick wooden control panel.

 

Have you tried installing the stick with an s plate? They allow the stick to be mounted from below in a wood cab, but they raise the stick. You might want to check out other seimitius. Some models have longer shafts.

[Andromeda Stardust]

 

Have you tried installing the stick with an s plate? They allow the stick to be mounted from below in a wood cab, but they raise the stick. You might want to check out other seimitius. Some models have longer shafts.

Might I ask how to install an "S-plate" into a control panel that's only 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick? This is the only mounting option I have to work with:

Source: http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/mounting_layering.html

 

The cigar box lids are thin but they are also small in surface area so there isn't much flexural stress on the wood. Also the low profile joysticks I am using have a very light actuation force.

 

This leaves me with the design decision to countersink or not to countersink the bolt holes. For the natural wood boxes, I have opted to countersink with brass screws. For the boxes with painted finish or coating, I have opted to use button top bolts. Reason being if I countersink the finished boxes it will damage the finish leaving ugly rings of bare wood around the screws. Believe me, if I could "hide" the screws without sacrificing structural integrity, I would.

[hizzy]

Oh Crap! You're right! I forgot that you were installing into a cigar box!!

[Newsdee]

Funnily enough I ordered one of these joysticks a while back and received it today.

Got the one with metal sides which is a bit more expensive, setup for Amiga (2 buttons), and also ordered an octagonal gate to mod it.

 

It ended up being less tall than the ones one the picture (about 3.7cm) which I suppose is good as it makes it more comfortable to hold.

It fits rather well in my big hands so for me at least it falls into Kosmic's category (1).

 

Quality is OK, feels handmade but solid. Definitely much better than anything I could come up with.

Stick is a Sanwa and it works great as expected. The Octo gate is nice to fool around rotating the stick even if not playing.

 

Overall I expected it to be a bit heavier but I need to see how it goes after a long time playing.

I didn't have much time with it yet... but I enjoy holding it more than Atari original controllers which was kind of the point

Edited September 19, 2016 by Newsdee

[Andromeda Stardust]

Thanks Newsdee. I've always wanted to try a Sanwa with an Octo gate. I've heard they were the best all around. How is the rod height on the controllers? I have found the Japanese sticks a bit short for full scale wood panels (but the Simitsus I'm using are perfect size for the cigar boxes). I can't afford to install $20 joysticks in these for what I'll be selling them for...

[Skippy B. Coyote]

I've always wanted to try a Sanwa with an Octo gate. I've heard they were the best all around.

That's what I've been playing with for most of the last year, and while it does work a heck of a lot better than a square gate for games with 4-way control the throw distance becomes super massive when using an octagonal gate with the stock JLF actuator. Think Wico Command Control + 1/2 cm additional throw in every direction. Some people like it a lot, but it's a little too sloppy feeling for my tastes so I'd recommend using an oversized actuator if you're going to run an octo gate in a JLF.

[Andromeda Stardust]

That's what I've been playing with for most of the last year, and while it does work a heck of a lot better than a square gate for games with 4-way control the throw distance becomes super massive when using an octagonal gate with the stock JLF actuator. Think Wico Command Control + 1/2 cm additional throw in every direction. Some people like it a lot, but it's a little too sloppy feeling for my tastes so I'd recommend using an oversized actuator if you're going to run an octo gate in a JLF.

I'm using a Zippy stick with a 3d printed Semitsu 8-way octagon restrictor in my MAME stick. Unfortunately, the actuation distance was too far off center and it was impossible to hit the diagonals. I remedied this by wrapping electrical tape around the round actuator 5 times to increase the thickness ever so slightly. After that, the stick worked like a charm, but I may consider dropping in a Sanwa at a later date.

 

The stick now has a toothy feel with the 8-way nubs. It's almost feel like the Nintendo VS "Red Tent" arcade cabs which I got to try in person at the Texas Pinball Fest in 2016.