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Bryan

The UAV Rev. D Video Upgrade Thread

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Hey crossbow,

 

I dont have raster, but I installed the UAV with the AC and PS conversion all at the same time. Using my AtariMax, playing Frogger for some decent music reproduction I do not notice overdrive or distortion. I have the picture stretched from a composite mod to a 60 plasma and it looks fantastic. Sounds like not a lot of people have Ac Modsed their 5200.

 

BAA3A29F-E4C8-4E31-B6DA-81202FED331A.MOV

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This was my mod - I did it prior to the published install guides. I pulled +5v from the unused RF spot and pulled the audio from the resistor. Im not sure if its optimal, but it works and sounds great. post-61342-0-86872400-1517441663.jpegpost-61342-0-82360400-1517441672_thumb.jpegpost-61342-0-35230600-1517441682.jpeg

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I installed the UAV in my 1200XL and it worked very well on the first try. I went ahead and installed it in my 6sw 2600 and am having problems. I am just going to use composite out. For some reason I am only getting black and white. When I select the color switch on the Atari to B/W it works great. When I select the switch to color the screen is still black and white but it looks like it skips lines. So what might be causing the color not to work correctly? Here is a picture of what I am talking about.

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Edited by whaledriver
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This is the exact same thing that happened to me. I used the same UAV on both a 7800 and 2600 and no color. I thought I was losing my mind. Luckily I had an extra board, swapped it out, and it worked fine. There must have been an issue with the latest batch.

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Hey guys. I just got my furnace installed last night and I'm trying to get caught up on a million things.

 

I'm going to make a small board to make keeping the 4050 in the 5200 easier. Apparently some of them won't work without it. I've got a lot of A8's here but only one 5200 to test on at the moment.

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This was my mod - I did it prior to the published install guides. I pulled +5v from the unused RF spot and pulled the audio from the resistor. Im not sure if its optimal, but it works and sounds great. attachicon.gif81870886-6576-4738-B862-F29705103FCD.jpegattachicon.gifBB4A1948-122B-41DA-873C-053C737DFF5E.jpegattachicon.gif2C0D3DC6-DF0F-4657-BE0A-1D128A06AE81.jpeg

Couple of things here I see..

 

First is that your pulling the audio from a different location. Bryan's guide advises to pull it from R50, which is where I've pulled it from in the past only I would just put a 10uf cap off it and then run it straight to the RCA from there.

 

Also do you have your 4050 removed? Again, I couldn't get anything but a blank screen with the 4050 removed. And yes, I had the jumper in place on R2 and R3 and black screen. This 5200 simply refuses to work with out the 4050. Besides Bryan also advised that the 4050 is also used as part of the reset circuit so it kinda needs to be there regardless it would seem.

 

As I stated, I ended up cutting the pins off the jumper headers. Then soldered the extra socket over the jumper header section. On the bottom of the board I just bridged the jumper points with solder since they are so close together, it is easy to do without using any wire or leads. that allows the entire assembly to still sit in the original 4050 socket, with the 4050 still in a socket on the top of the UAV and is still not as tall as the audio induction coil on the right of that is. So works well and wasn't too much to modify to do it. Took longer to solder the socket ontop of the pins from the machine headers than anything else really.

 

I have the audio going into the same spots on the UAC so I guess that part is right. Again, only difference is I pulled the audio from R50 as Bryan advises. Honestly the person receiving this, isn't likely to notice the slight distortion as I did. Games sound find..it was when I tested with the Raster Tracker demo that it began to show up. Not as much bass either but then that might be better for most people.

 

I'm still in the process of editing and slicing together my video of the process in doing this. It isn't as detailed as some of my other ones, but the reworking of the UAV is shown as well as where everything else was done.

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I installed the UAV in my 1200XL and it worked very well on the first try. I went ahead and installed it in my 6sw 2600 and am having problems. I am just going to use composite out. For some reason I am only getting black and white. When I select the color switch on the Atari to B/W it works great. When I select the switch to color the screen is still black and white but it looks like it skips lines. So what might be causing the color not to work correctly? Here is a picture of what I am talking about.

 

Try moving that red wire in the far left on the solderless connect terminal and solder it to the T. Col location instead? That is where the TIA color burst is ran on the 7800 upgrades and the Maria is ran to the COL location off the terminal block.

 

Just curious if that might make a difference because those black n white pics with the stripes are a result of the color burst missing.

 

I get the exact same results on my Genesis when I have the color subcarrier line cut and trying to use composite or s-video. (Off topic but I cut the subcarrier on the Genesis to remove the jail bars on RGB).

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When I installed the UAV and the audio board in my 5200, I did it as shown in the install guide Bryan posted in his blog- except for the ground wire on the audio rca jacks. Instead of bringing the ground from the jacks back to the resistor as shown in the image, I stuck a single wire to all 3 rca jacks and fed it into one of the ground terminals on the UAV. For the UAV itself, the 4050 in mine was not socketed, so I just left it in and soldered the socket Bryan included onto the top of it.

 

The video quality is what I've come to expect from composite on my crt tv - it's a lot cleaner than RF was but there still some shadows on certain color combinations.

 

For the most part the sound is fine, except that in Ms. Pacman I'm getting a kind of crackle on the sound effect for eating the dots which I don't hear with my un-modded 5200. When installing the audio board I did accidentally de-solder one of the smd components and had to put it back on. I thought at first that this might be the cause of the crackle, but I tried bypassing the board and put the sound output straight from R50 to the jacks and could still hear it

Edited by jjh76

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Atari 800 update:

 

Here's how I just installed the UAV in my 800. Leave the 4050 in the circuit. I prefer to attach the wires to it instead of the PCB because it can easily be replaced and will provide a support for the UAV.

 

1. Remove the 4050 and attach power wires to pins 1 and 8.

2. Attach solid bus wire/component leads to pins 5,7,9,11,14.

3. Bend them so that the following pads & leads line up when the UAV is roatated 180 degrees from the 4050:

0 = p5

1 = p9
2 = p14
3 = p11
S = p7
4. Slide the UAV over the pins and solder them.
5. Attach the 5V and G wires to the pads (remembering that they'll be crossing each other with the chip turned).
6. Attach wires for Chroma, Luma, Composite, and Color In to UAV and then install it in the 4050 socket.
7. Lift right side of R189(75 ohms), L104, L105. These three components are next to each other.
8. Solder the wires to the board:
CV = empty pad of L104
Luma = empty pad of R189
Chroma = empty pad of L105
Color In = Right side of R196
EDIT: After this, I moved the ground wire going to the UAV. The new wire picks it up off the board and then goes to the G pad. I believe this yielded a small improvement in the picture, so I left it that way. See the last pic.

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Try moving that red wire in the far left on the solderless connect terminal and solder it to the T. Col location instead? That is where the TIA color burst is ran on the 7800 upgrades and the Maria is ran to the COL location off the terminal block.

 

Just curious if that might make a difference because those black n white pics with the stripes are a result of the color burst missing.

 

I get the exact same results on my Genesis when I have the color subcarrier line cut and trying to use composite or s-video. (Off topic but I cut the subcarrier on the Genesis to remove the jail bars on RGB).

 

I tried that and still no change. Still black and white. I also tried it using Chroma/Luma on my 1702 monitor and it is still black and white. I am wondering if mu UAV board is damaged. I sent a message to Bryan in hopes to buy another one.

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I installed the UAV in my 1200XL and it worked very well on the first try. I went ahead and installed it in my 6sw 2600 and am having problems. I am just going to use composite out. For some reason I am only getting black and white. When I select the color switch on the Atari to B/W it works great. When I select the switch to color the screen is still black and white but it looks like it skips lines. So what might be causing the color not to work correctly? Here is a picture of what I am talking about.

 

Just want to let everyone know we're working on this. The colorburst isn't making it to the monitor so we'll find out if it's the UAV or something else.

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Just want to let everyone know we're working on this. The colorburst isn't making it to the monitor so we'll find out if it's the UAV or something else.

His composite is working correct? So that would mean the color burst as to be making it to the UAV. I don't know anything about how the UAV is constructed, but I guess the issue is that the color burst isn't getting split properly to provide the chroma output, hence his black n white images.

 

And that install method on your 800 is pretty slick. Though for the amateur it might still be a bit tough with getting the soldered on leads to line up properly. I've wondered if there were a way to perhaps provide small jumpers kinda like small staples to fit into those vias and just hit them with a bit a solder as they lay in there? With those small jumpers in the holes, the solder would just flow to them naturally and bridge them easily. Wouldn't be easily undone, but then who is going to likely remove a UAV from an install once in place? Be easier to just buy another UAV for another project in most cases right?

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His composite is working correct? So that would mean the color burst as to be making it to the UAV. I don't know anything about how the UAV is constructed, but I guess the issue is that the color burst isn't getting split properly to provide the chroma output, hence his black n white images.

 

And that install method on your 800 is pretty slick. Though for the amateur it might still be a bit tough with getting the soldered on leads to line up properly. I've wondered if there were a way to perhaps provide small jumpers kinda like small staples to fit into those vias and just hit them with a bit a solder as they lay in there? With those small jumpers in the holes, the solder would just flow to them naturally and bridge them easily. Wouldn't be easily undone, but then who is going to likely remove a UAV from an install once in place? Be easier to just buy another UAV for another project in most cases right?

 

My understanding is that he's not getting color no matter what. When the 2600 outputs color he just sees the color carrier in the picture (dot pattern). This means the TV never received the colorburst and is in B&W mode. He sent me a pic of his color signal out of TIA and the burst is squashed compared to the rest of the color. This usually means that the blanking pin (6) has not been lifted, but the pictures he sent me show pin 6 lifted. Still a mystery.

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Got it sorted. Some of these old sockets are strangely constructed and the lifted TIA pin 6 was still touching even though it was out to the side.

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A huge shout out to Bryan for helping me figure this out.

 

Turns out there is a small metal tab on each of the pin holes in the socket. Pulling the TIA pin just enough not to go in the hole still had the pin contacting the tab. So I just pulled the pin out a little more and presto! Works like a charm!

 

I just ordered two more boards to finish upgrading my collection.

Edited by whaledriver
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Yesterday I received my new UAV rev. D.

I installed it immediately in my new old 600xl.

I assume it is NTSC since it didn't include monitor din port and I got it used here in US. Therefore, previously I removed the channel switch and installed a DIN connector. I also cut a trace that connected two pins of DIN 5 connector.

The first problem I had was that I couldn't get s-video to work, then I switch to AV and the blue ready screen was there, what a relief!

But then the image started to get weird greenish colors and finally the color I gone, and then the sync gone and the image started to rotate thru the screen. Check the video

If I turn atari off and then on the problem is still there. Instead, if I wait about 30 seconds it works ok for a few seconds and then the problem starts again.

I checked and rechecked everything. I noticed that inserting the UNO cart makes the booting process look very green, and then the UNO cart menu is also very green. The color pot did not solve the problem and actually I have it full to the right to make the screen less green. BTW, the image got "crazy" with the UNO cart after few seconds, as well.

Any ideas?

Thanks

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check power supply voltage under load, (that's to say with everything on.)

I'll check that. By the way, how is that jumpers configuration for 600xl is different from the configuration of 800xl?

Another doubt, after cutting the trace under the DIN5, luma and chroma pins in the DIN5 monitor connector are not connected to anything, right? (NTSC 600xl). I assumed that so I didn't further isolated the DIN5 connector before soldering the UAV output to monitor connector pads.

Thanks for the help and that's to Bryan for developing this upgrade.

Mauri

Edited by manterola

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Hello all. Installing the UAV into a light six switcher and I'm running into a problem with S Video. No matter what I try I can't seem to eliminate the jailbars. I've tried every trick I know, short wires, shielded wires, different cables, different tv sets, etc. and nothing seems to eliminate it. Composite seems to be fine and in s video black and white is crystal clear. Any hints would be greatly appreciated.

 

Edit: Added a rough installation pic. Wires are messy but will be cleaned up when I can sort out the s Video issue. Other board is the sound board I built but I disconnected it.

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Edited by Riggs1976

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I'll check that. By the way, how is that jumpers configuration for 600xl is different from the configuration of 800xl?

Another doubt, after cutting the trace under the DIN5, luma and chroma pins in the DIN5 monitor connector are not connected to anything, right? (NTSC 600xl). I assumed that so I didn't further isolated the DIN5 connector before soldering the UAV output to monitor connector pads.

Thanks for the help and that's to Bryan for developing this upgrade.

Mauri

Oh no! Things are going downwards.... I tested the voltage at the UAV PCB and it was 4.78. then I connected the 5v directly to the UAV , and the computer started to go memory self test. Uh oh... Then I checked if the basic rom chip was ok, nothing... Then change the OS chip because I needed to change it anyways to install a sio2bt later, then the 600xl did not boot anymore, just a red brownish screen. Then I put the original OS chip, it just show a red screen (of death?) Different mor intense and straight red than the brownish I get when I use the eprom sio2bt OS version. I reseated the Basic and OS chips but nothing. Now I am stucked with the red screen. The sad part I that now the problem can be anything. In this point this is off topic, but I am very frustrated how this nice and simple upgrade turn into something really bad looking. Not anyone's fault, but mine. So, I'll be asking for extra help in other threads in order to bring this 600xl back to life.

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Strange things are afoot at the Circle K.

 

I made the install change like the one you did in your 800, Brian. Things seemed to look basically the same on the capture card and the PVM (testing composite video).

 

Then after the machine was warmed up and running for a bit and me scratching my chin, the following image sequence cycled while running the color bar program. (Last image is "back to normal")

 

I only wired up composite video for testing. The metal shield is on in order to balance the power and AV output board. One screw was put in to hold everything in place. I have a roll of electrical tape on top of the open/close switch to keep it closed, and obviously the keyboard is plugged in. Not your normal, closed-up 800, but should be functional in that state.

 

 

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Any of you guys have odd switch on/off changes in your signal like above?

Are you sure that's not the attract mode/screensaver kicking in? Does pressing a key make it stop?

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