+MrFish Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 A 90 degree connector would also help. You should insert the cart from the side. More dust-proof too. I thought the same thing at first, but then you're talking about mangling the case. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvas Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 I thought the same thing at first, but then you're talking about mangling the case. The top needs to be cut anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roydea6 Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 A 90 degree connector would also help. You should insert the cart from the side. More dust-proof too. Stand the enclosure on it's side the cartridge slot is horizontal and not vertical and (less dust) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MrFish Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 The top needs to be cut anyway. Yes, but if you're having the custom panel made, it'll be professionally cut. Also, do you see those vents on the side? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvas Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Stand the enclosure on it's side the cartridge slot is horizontal and not vertical and (less dust) Yes, but then the ventilation holes would be covered. With the hole in the side, the connector would be closer to the casing -> no guidance needed, more simple to insert the cart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvas Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Also, do you see those vents on the side? Yes. Can be cut professionally. But just an opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 (edited) Interesting discussion. The dust aspect and using orientation to avoid it will not really work when you consider that there are vent slots everywhere. Using a right angle edge card connector to enter from the side would have a considerable amount of said cartridge sticking out and not be as easy as plugging in from the top. Moving the connector farther in to compensate for the amount that is external to the case is not really an option. Personally I've always liked a top cartridge entry, but that's just me. Anyway with all things considered I'll be sticking with this concept for at least my first couple of systems. It's relatively cheap versus a completely custom case from the ground up. It'll still look very professional. And it fits at least one vision I had running through my head when I began this project. In another iteration, such as bolting it to the back of a monitor for that All-In-One system, it will require a different approach because I wouldn't want the case to be as tall, and obviously if a cart were required, it would then have to be a side entering type. So a different case and a cartridge adapter would come into play. So what we are seeing here is that this isn't a one size fits all situation. But with some adaption and the numerous choices that are available in Mini-ITX cases, it will certainly yeild some very interesting outcomes. Only limited by one's imagination. Welcome to the world of DIY. - Michael Edited March 3, 2017 by mytekcontrols Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MrFish Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 It's relatively cheap versus a completely custom case from the ground up. It'll still look very professional. This was the approach taken with the SDrive Nuxx and it turned out great. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MrFish Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 This was the approach taken with the SDrive Nuxx and it turned out great. For those who don't know about it, it was a custom implementation of the SDrive, by AA user c0nsumer, which used a very nice, standard, aluminum project box and custom front and back panels. SDrive NUXX 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 For those who don't know about it, it was a custom implementation of the SDrive, by AA user c0nsumer, which used a very nice, standard, aluminum project box and custom front and back panels. SDrive NUXX sdrive_nuxx_main.jpg sdrive_nuxx_main_2.jpg Wow that is nice! I've got to step up my game - Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MrFish Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 (edited) Wow that is nice! I've got to step up my game I don't know about that ("step up my game"); this was a vastly simpler board. He did an ace job on everything, though. Here's the original thread/topic from 2009: SDrive NUXX Edited March 3, 2017 by MrFish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 I don't know about that ("step up my game"); this was a vastly simpler board. He did an ace job on everything, though. Here's the original thread/topic from 2009: SDrive NUXX sdrive_nuxx_board.jpg Wow nice read, and there goes another afternoon Now I understand how he created the artwork on those panels. at first I thought how the heck could that be done with front panel designer? And then I found out that it wasn't, but instead he used this metal like label material that is photo sensitive, so essentially became a 'printing' process. End result was great! - Michael 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) I'm working on the Cart Tunnel This is my first day at it, using new software, and this is just a mock-up of what I have in mind that is not dimensionally correct. But it did make for a good tutorial on how to use the software. Starting tomorrow I'll rip it up and and design it for real. However this first version does get across the concept of what I have in mind. This will get sandwiched in-between the 1088XEL motherboard and the top cover plate. I'm also thinking that what is shown in green can likely be combined with what is shown in red, having no seam. I am curious as to how thin the material can be on the tunnel wall, since I have no previous experience with 3D printing. Any suggestions? I'm creating this on-line with TinkerCad Output can be exported as either STL or OBJ. I'm assuming STL is probably the preferred format for printing? - Michael EDIT: I'll be adding a radius to some of those edges, especially the one where the cart enters. BTW, the actual printed version will be all black Edited March 4, 2017 by mytekcontrols 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 STL does seem to be the most prevalent format. I've had fairly good success with similar designs around 2 to 2.5mm thickness. I will say that I only have experience with ABS, and I am definitely not an experienced 3D printer. I've used Open SCAD before - maybe I should give TinkerCAD a try. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) STL does seem to be the most prevalent format. I've had fairly good success with similar designs around 2 to 2.5mm thickness. I will say that I only have experience with ABS, and I am definitely not an experienced 3D printer. I've used Open SCAD before - maybe I should give TinkerCAD a try. Hi Stephen --- thanks for the feedback. I'll try 2.5 mm and see if I get any objections from the printing service I decide to use. Speaking of which, TinkerCad will let you choose from 4 different 3D Printing Service Providers (Shapeways, I.Materialise, Scupteo, Ponoko) if you don't have your own printer (which is the boat I'm in). After I signed up I just jumped right in and had created that mock-up in 20 minutes. It's a pretty simplistic interface, but does seem quite capable for generating some of the things I've seen done on AA. What's really nice is that for FREE software, it isn't a closed system, meaning that you are not forced to use them for creating the final product. If you go on Youtube you'll find a bunch of videos detailing the use of the different features. One of the most useful features for what I was doing, is called the 'Align Tool'. Here is that video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVVL_mIUTbE BTW, I just noticed for first time users of Ponoko, they give you $20 off your first print. That would cover a pretty good portion for printing my first prototype . - Michael Edited March 4, 2017 by mytekcontrols 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Bill is moving to Washington (whaaaaaaaa...) this summer so I doubt we will have an Atari Party this year. Bob That makes me very sad I knew I should have went with you last year (stupid me). I'm not much for traveling, so what and where is the next event that would have A8 attendees? - Michael Bill and I have been talking (VERY preliminarily and I would presume not exclusively ) about me taking over the Atari Party when/if he leaves. I live very near to him and have been at the last couple. So, *IF* I have the honor of taking over and *IF* Bill is not here, I will make sure one happens. -M 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 Bill and I have been talking (VERY preliminarily and I would presume not exclusively ) about me taking over the Atari Party when/if he leaves. I live very near to him and have been at the last couple. So, *IF* I have the honor of taking over and *IF* Bill is not here, I will make sure one happens. -M That would be fantastic *IF* that works out - Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) I've been playing around a bit more and think I have something very close to what I need for the Cart Tunnel. Here's a link to see it in your browser using the A360 3D viewer: 1088XEL Cart Tunnel - Michael Here's an alternative viewer (I like this one better myself). Edited March 5, 2017 by mytekcontrols 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 (edited) I added a couple of mounting holes to my Cart Tunnel (3D LINK)... I got a very gracious offer from someone on AA to print this for me, but I was also very curious about using i.materialise with their dyed nylon material (less abrasive). So I have a sample coming from them in a couple days. And even though these guys are based in Belgium, their shipping cost to the US was extremely low (in fact it was better than I can do shipping the smallest priority box within the US). Since they are located in Europe, I also figured that they would make for a reasonable and fast source of professionally printed 3D parts in that continent as well. Although I'm not routing traces yet, I really felt that this diversion was necessary in order to ascertain what if any changes on the PCB layout might be required to accommodate this Cart Tunnel idea. And there will definitely be some minor ones needed to get a little bit more clearance around the Cart connector, as well as adding the two mounting holes. Proposed PCB Changes... - Michael Edited March 5, 2017 by mytekcontrols 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MrFish Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 I added a couple of mounting holes to my Cart Tunnel (3D LINK)... I just was thinking earlier today that some screws would be better than gluing the top edge. The only thing about putting screws through plastic like that is the plastic can crack over time, especially when you have something that's being roughed around like a cartridge slot can be. That's probably a solid spot, but maybe the use of some hard rubber washers on the underside of the sleeve -- where the screws go through -- would give it some longevity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 (edited) I just was thinking earlier today that some screws would be better than gluing the top edge. The only thing about putting screws through plastic like that is the plastic can crack over time, especially when you have something that's being roughed around like a cartridge slot can be. That's probably a solid spot, but maybe the use of some hard rubber washers on the underside of the sleeve -- where the screws go through -- would give it some longevity. I'm thinking it'll be ok, since the top of the tunnel gets pinned in place by the enclosure's top cover plate (the custom one with a hole in it). Being secured in both the upper and lower quadrants should prevent any possibility of side-to-side movement, which would normally be the cause of cracking as you mentioned. - Michael Edited March 5, 2017 by mytekcontrols Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MrFish Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 I'm thinking it'll be ok, since the top of the tunnel gets pinned in place by the enclosure's top cover plate (the custom one with a hole in it). Being secured in both the upper and lower quadrants should prevent any possibility of side-to-side movement, which would normally be the cause of cracking as you mentioned. You're probably right there. The other reason, which I hadn't mentioned yet, is just the pressure of the metal screws pushing down against the plastic. Plastic will often crack over time due to that alone -- thicker plastic being a plus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 (edited) PLL You're probably right there. The other reason, which I hadn't mentioned yet, is just the pressure of the metal screws pushing down against the plastic. Plastic will often crack over time due to that alone -- thicker plastic being a plus. That was one of the reasons I wanted to try the nylon 3D printing that i.materialise is using. It's somewhat soft and pliable, thus not prone to cracking easily, and also less abrasive to the cartridges when slid in or out. Should be the perfect material for this application. But to be on the safe side, I'll also be using nylon washers underneath between the nuts and the motherboard, which should add an additional amount of pliancy. I do love your thinking and your concerns in regards to all of this, since it brings up valid points that often need to be addressed. We are definitely heading in a good direction because of this. - Michael Edited March 5, 2017 by mytekcontrols 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MrFish Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 (edited) That was one of the reasons I wanted to try the nylon 3D printing that i.materialise is using. It's somewhat soft and pliable, thus not prone to cracking easily, and also less abrasive to the cartridges when slid in or out. Should be the perfect material for this application. I do love your thinking and your concerns in regards to all of this, since it brings up valid points that often need to be addressed. We are definitely heading in a good direction because of this. I didn't realise you were using nylon; my bad there; just thinking out loud; I should have read through the info more closely. Nylon will probably be perfectly fine in this situation. Carry on... Edited March 5, 2017 by MrFish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 I didn't realise you were using nylon; my bad there; just thinking out loud; I should have read through the info more closely. Nylon will probably be perfectly fine in this situation. Carry on... No worries. I did edit that post, adding in the idea of also using pliable washers as well. Better safe than sorry as the old saying goes. - Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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