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H454

Would like thoughts on personal 2600 av svideo rgb mod work - pics

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Hi, I've been on the forums for awhile(mostly reading) -the posts are very informative and friendly.

After doing my own av mods and considering selling the units or doing installs for others,

I wanted to get a feel for what people consider my quality of work.

Also to make the installs as clean as possible - I think RCA jacks sticking out the back look terrible and even worse - the sides.

One is a 2600jr with the ElectronicSentimentalities s video mod( av cable connects to a trs jack in the old RF port - I wanted to use a trs jack and then saw the game-tech install video using the RF port) and 2600 vader with 2600RGB mod(with composite -trs jack, component - trs jack, s video and RGB via framemeister cable).

I don't like hot glue and it's almost never needed - I used epoxy for the ports. And once the case is closed - nothing should be moving if the wiring was routed right.

Yes, I did use cat5 wire for the installs, but solid core is better for something thats not moving and its what I got with the kit from ES.icon_wink.gif

I know the ports on the vader are a little tilted, but was also my first time using epoxy.icon_biggrinwink.gif

Here are some pics, feel from to ask questions or give CONSTRUCTIVE criticism.icon_razz.gif - Thanks

 

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Looks like there is a little extra space around the S-video port, and flux around the solder points.

However I would consider it minor, and possibly better than I could do.

 

BTW, welcome, and love the Chevy... I drove a 1964 Chevelle Malibu SS for 19 beautiful years.

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Looks like there is a little extra space around the S-video port, and flux around the solder points.

 

Do you mean the one with RGB mod? Like the extra glue? Yea, I didn't have a 12mm drill and end up reaming slightly too big.

And as for the flux I find there is two schools of thought on that - 1. clean it off and 2.Most newer electronics solder (rosin core) is harmless don't even bother - especially compared to what Atari left on their boards.icon_woozy.gif

Most of the old boards I worked on, I SCRUBBED them with warm water just to get some of the crap off - like old flux, dust and dead bugs.

I spent 3 or 4 hours one night trying to find an answer to whether cleaning after soldering really mattered and what I could find was generally "uh - probably" and "as long as you didn't use plumbers solder (acid core), then don't worry about."

 

If any has some real experience with not cleaning rosin core solder becoming a problem, let me know.

 

 

BTW, welcome, and love the Chevy... I drove a 1964 Chevelle Malibu SS for 19 beautiful years.

 

Thanks, 65 Impala 4 door hardtop, sold about 10 years ago. Think had almost 200,000 miles on it. Started every time I turned the key, but had almost no heat.

Edited by H454

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Practice makes perfect ;) But your first try is far better than mine :) I used RCA on my first attempt and agree, there is no attractive way to do that. I considered using a 3.5 A/V plug but thought that would get confused with the power port. Ultimately, I love what you have done, is it epoxied in place? My thought for my next try was to use a commodore 64 A/V cable as a 5 pin din chassis connector can be mounted easily.

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I considered using a 3.5 A/V plug but thought that would get confused with the power port.

I did too, but but if it became a problem, I'd probably change to power jack to something else. I usually leave the av stuff plugged in. And i figured most people know which is the power jack.icon_razz.gif

 

I love what you have done, is it epoxied in place?

Yes, as long as you have hole tight it works great. But as you can see that the jacks are a little twisted. You have figure out how to have them stay in place until the epoxy starts to set(like 5 min.). They make clear epoxy too - looks better if a little comes out around the edges

 

My thought for my next try was to use a commodore 64 A/V cable as a 5 pin din chassis connector can be mounted easily.

The regular size din connector can be bigger than you think.icon_wink.gif Also, think the din 5 commodore spits its wiring into luma, croma (s-video) and audio (din 5 to rca)? - which would probably work perfect for a commodore monitor.icon_thumbsup.gif

The db9 on the Commodore 128 does TTL RGB. -CGA? Not 100%, but have gotten a 128 to work with an OLD Sony PVM.

 

Thanks for the input.

 

Also, buy a good set of stepper bits and go slow. Amazon has a metric set of three in a box for like $30. I didn't have for the first stuff I modded.Metric offers slightly better size increments. And think the din holes are metric.

.

 

.

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If you guys need to butcher the systems, why not to use mini DIN as Sega Genesis... that would fit in that RF socket and has lots of pins... at least Genesis is able to output both composite and RGB though that port

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Thank you H454 for the good advice! I'll go look for the stepper bits!

 

I did too, but but if it became a problem, I'd probably change to power jack to something else. I usually leave the av stuff plugged in. And i figured most people know which is the power jack.icon_razz.gif

 

Yes, as long as you have hole tight it works great. But as you can see that the jacks are a little twisted. You have figure out how to have them stay in place until the epoxy starts to set(like 5 min.). They make clear epoxy too - looks better if a little comes out around the edges

 

The regular size din connector can be bigger than you think.icon_wink.gif Also, think the din 5 commodore spits its wiring into luma, croma (s-video) and audio (din 5 to rca)? - which would probably work perfect for a commodore monitor.icon_thumbsup.gif

The db9 on the Commodore 128 does TTL RGB. -CGA? Not 100%, but have gotten a 128 to work with an OLD Sony PVM.

 

Thanks for the input.

 

Also, buy a good set of stepper bits and go slow. Amazon has a metric set of three in a box for like $30. I didn't have for the first stuff I modded.Metric offers slightly better size increments. And think the din holes are metric.

.

 

.

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If you guys need to butcher the systems, why not to use mini DIN as Sega Genesis... that would fit in that RF socket and has lots of pins... at least Genesis is able to output both composite and RGB though that port

I would not call it "butchering" more like resto-modding if done right, half the old systems don't work on new monitors and TV's...Kind of like putting hardened seats on a set of old heads to get them to work with unleaded gas....or better yet, a new set of aftermarket heads! ;)

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If you guys need to butcher the systems, why not to use mini DIN as Sega Genesis... that would fit in that RF socket and has lots of pins... at least Genesis is able to output both composite and RGB though that port

It a 2600, not priceless art. I wouldn't call It "butchering".icon_biggrin.gif

As for the genesis (mini-din 9 Type b) proprietary - good luck finding a panel mount - I've only found one and its at best low quality and PITA to solder.

The s video and Mini din 8 are the ones that come with Tim Worthington's 2600 RGB mod kit - they are best I've seen of ANY din hardware. I've ordered the s-video jacks / daughter boards separate for other projects.

Others have found running audio through the DIN RGB cables can easily produce unwanted video interference.

 

The mini din 8 is wired to direct connection to a framemeister.

Quote from Tim's site:

Reasons for the decision.

I preferred to use an RGB connection standard that was already used by somebody else. The connection must use a connector which is widely available, easy to mount, and is not dedicated to a particular purpose (such as a USB connector is, for example). It is also unacceptable to require additional components connected to the video signal. This was often done by Sega and other game console manufacturers to reduce the cost of their game consoles at the expense of the cables.

I stated by looking through the list of Game Console RGB SCART Cable Diagrams. So many use proprietary connectors or require extra components! The only one to meet the criteria is the Neo Geo AES, a console known for its variable RGB video quality. Some people have used Sub-D connector in these circumstances... I considered this but the D shaped connector is quite difficult to mount. VGA connector is not suitable because the signals are not compatible with VGA and this will cause confusion. SCART connectors are too large and funny shaped...

I settled on the connection from the Micomsoft XRGB-mini Framemeister. This uses a small 8 pin mini din connector for audio and RGB video. Sync on composite video (75 ohm terminated). It's basically SCART/Jap RGB-21 with all the extraneous pins removed. The only change I make is to leave off the audio pins. The signals audio and video signals should go through separate cables so that they don't interfere with one another. This is the simple solution to audio interference problem. The alternative would be to use special cables that keeps the signals separate along its length. This would make pre-made cables significantly more difficult to make (and hence more expensive) with little added benefit. People are used to plugging in multiple connectors at once anyway.

The choice of a 3.5mm jack socket instead of a pair of phono (RCA) connectors was mostly an aesthetic one. The mini din connectors that I supply are small and do not protrude much. The 3.5mm jack protrudes the same amount and takes up very little panel space. This is important for space constrained consoles such as the Famicom.

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I would not call it "butchering" more like resto-modding if done right, half the old systems don't work on new monitors and TV's...Kind of like putting hardened seats on a set of old heads to get them to work with unleaded gas....or better yet, a new set of aftermarket heads! icon_wink.gif

 

Yes! Thank you!

Although I don't think a lot of video game people will know enough about old cars to get the reference.icon_thumbsup.gif icon_biggrin.gif

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Use a ruler. Your jacks are uneven.

I did - look again. The pics my not be perfect angles.

Check the second and Third pic - see the scribe marks? All the jacks share the same center line vertically and horizontally.

3.5 jacks are strait down with power and the dins with difficultly switches.

The the middle 3.5 jack is in the EXACT center of that rear indent.

There is some extra glue on the s video and a slight twist, but those jacks as "even" any "professional" mod I've seen.

 

Should I take all my pics at a top down 3/4 angle, so that no one can tell? Google some pro services - they are shown at a weird angle or they have a row of crooked RCA jacks.icon_surprised.gif

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I did - look again. The pics my not be perfect angles.

Check the second and Third pic - see the scribe marks? All the jacks share the same center line vertically and horizontally.

3.5 jacks are strait down with power and the dins with difficultly switches.

The the middle 3.5 jack is in the EXACT center of that rear indent.

There is some extra glue on the s video and a slight twist, but those jacks as "even" any "professional" mod I've seen.

 

Should I take all my pics at a top down 3/4 angle, so that no one can tell? Google some pro services - they are shown at a weird angle or they have a row of crooked RCA jacks.icon_surprised.gif

 

Why did you ask for opinions if you are gonna freak on anything that isn't praise? Good luck with your sales. It's clear that is the only reason you joined this forum.

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Why did you ask for opinions if you are gonna freak on anything that isn't praise? Good luck with your sales. It's clear that is the only reason you joined this forum.

 

If had read more than just the header, you'd see that NONE of it was "praise". I was looking for (as stated) a little constructive criticism and conversation - which has been the post so far.

 

Hi, I've been on the forums for awhile(mostly reading) -the posts are very informative and friendly.

 

Sorry if I was annoyed by a curt reply that seems like you just posting with out reading even anything.

 

 

Good luck with your sales. It's clear that is the only reason you joined this forum.

So, wanting to make something better? I joined LONG before planed on doing anything. If I was looking to sell, I would had thrown on eBay without a care in the world.

 

You shouldn't "freak out" so easily.

 

So long and short is - the Snorks was 10x the show the Smurfs was.icon_dunce.gif

 

(That last part was sarcasm icon_wink.gif / a joke )

 

Also - did you know this was available? icon_piratehat.gif

 

My world has been turned upside down. 'Cuase he's wearing a hat Shawn - A HAT!

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