Various 2600 mod questions

[Kapikui]

I recently aquired a 2600/a woodgrain. The circuit board is a rev 13. I’m thinking about doing some modding. I kind of want to make a 2600 modern retro. I have some questions and ideas.

 

The field service manual refers to anti-static tape mounted across the switches and to the RF shielding to alleviate potential static charges through the switches to the circuits. Is this necessary? With the shielding removed to add the video composite mod, what would I ground the switches to?

 

The first mod is a video composite mod I’m thinking of using this one http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/product/atari-video-mod-kit/ does anyone have any experience with it? Is it acceptable, or is there another that would be better. I’m trying to make it look professional inside and out when done. So I'm going to want to mount the board nicely. It seems that some have used mounting tape, is there a better way?

 

Next would be the pause mod. I don’t like the switches that seem to be generally provided. Would it be possible to repurpose the 2-3 switch since it will be of no use with the composite mod? That way I don’t have to mount a new switch to the case. I especially don’t want to make it difficult to take the case off. If everything were mounted to the circuit board and simply protruded from the top (as with the original design), it would be far more aesthetically pleasing, and it looks as if I could just cut the trace on the circuit board and solder the wires to the switch.

 

Third would be a power light LED mod A simple green led could be mounted next to the power switch. Green as it would have been the period correct color had atari actually installed one. Again, it would be preferable if the LED were attached to the circuit board, and then simply protruded from the bezel next to the power switch, rather than attaching the power LED to the bezel and having to carefully open the case every time I want to mod it. Alternately, I just had an idea to put LED’s or EL wire around the switches making them glow from inside.

 

Fourth, would it be possible to find a power supply similar in size to a laptop charger and use it as an internal power supply. It is physically possible to put an appropriate power supply inside the case. It could be placed in front of the board and the wire run to the back, and soldered in place of the current power jack. A standard removable cord jack could be attached to the back of the case making the Atari easier to deal with.

Lastly, I had a thought about splitting off the composite out and running it to a simple HDMI adapter mounted inside the case, and then run to an HDMI jack on the back of the Atari. Has anyone ever tried anything like this?

 

Thank you for your time.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Using the 2/3 switch is fine I would imagine however, that switch is recessed in there pretty far and might make it tough to actually flick back and forth to pause or unpause? I've thought the same about people using the 2/3 channel switch on the 7800 LHE AV mods for the TIA9 cutoff too. Anyway... why a green LED? Red is also very period correct and is really the color that would have been used. But either way...

[Keatah]

This is that cheap mod with a single transistor and where the instructions tell you to cut and break off the RF modulator! I wouldn't use this mod. Any mod instructions that tell me to break things is beyond cheap. The same care goes into making the design and mod kit I'm sure. Thus I'd go for something better like:

 

http://retrorgb.com/atari.html

http://etim.net.au/2600rgb/

 

Disclaimer: I have not used any of these kits personally, but have installed them for others. I play on the most sophisticated console only. Emulator Stella.

[Kapikui]

Using the 2/3 switch is fine I would imagine however, that switch is recessed in there pretty far and might make it tough to actually flick back and forth to pause or unpause? I've thought the same about people using the 2/3 channel switch on the 7800 LHE AV mods for the TIA9 cutoff too. Anyway... why a green LED? Red is also very period correct and is really the color that would have been used. But either way...

Green traditionally meant things were working OK. while red LED's generally came on if there was a problem. That goes way back to some of the first indicator lights, predating LED's by a lot. Then someone invented the insanely bright blue LED's, and everything turned blue.

[Keatah]

Red is more period correct. Many tape recorders had red to indicate recording.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Red is more period correct. Many tape recorders had red to indicate recording.

^^^^^^^^^^ This...

 

Also the AV kit that the OP linked to..does state and have mention to break off the small board off the RF modulator, but I think you can leave it attached. It just produces artifacts in the video since it interferes with it. I personally cut them in the middle with my flush cutters. Then it is very easy to repair with a small bit of solder to bridge it back together.

 

Also a few other consoles to consider that used Red LEDs for power one indication:

 

NES

Intellivision System 3

Atari 5200

Atari 7800

Most computers of the era

 

So if the 5200 and the 7800 had Red LEDs, I can't think of any more period correct than that and from Atari to boot?

Edited January 30, 2017 by -^Cro§Bow^-

[Keatah]

The field service manual refers to anti-static tape mounted across the switches and to the RF shielding to alleviate potential static charges through the switches to the circuits. Is this necessary? With the shielding removed to add the video composite mod, what would I ground the switches to?

 

The first mod is a video composite mod I’m thinking of using this one http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/product/atari-video-mod-kit/ does anyone have any experience with it? Is it acceptable, or is there another that would be better. I’m trying to make it look professional inside and out when done. So I'm going to want to mount the board nicely. It seems that some have used mounting tape, is there a better way?

 

 

Yes it is. To prevent static discharge into the circuit when you shuffle across the genuine 70's shag carpet. Remove it and all it'll take is one blast, and your VCS will fail some number of months down the road.

 

If you remove the tape, just put it back and reconnect it to where it was connected before. That'd be the shield.

 

I wouldn't go eliminating the shield. It cost money, it was put there for a reason. Interference generation & rejection, and the aforementioned static discharge.

 

One of the mods I mentioned before, the more complex one, has nice instructions that tell you to preserve the shield. It is alright to cut holes in it or trim an area away to let wires through. http://etim.net.au/2600rgb/installation-4switch/

 

As far as mounting things like small boards and wire clips? There's many methods, glue, brackets ties and rivets, snap holders. All kindsa shit limited only by your imagination. You can even epoxy (or drill) a mounting bracket to the board and fasten it to the housing whatever way..

[Keatah]

I suppose a more "professional" way of taking the modulator board out of circuit (instead of breaking it in half) would be to desolder the "L" shaped pins and put them in a tiny parts bag and tape it to the inside of the housing. Along with a time/date tag.

[Kapikui]

I guess i'll need to get a replacement for the static strips. They didn't survive removal, and barely survived disassembly.

 

I had been planning to remove the entire RF modulator. Would that be a problem?

[Keatah]

Removing the RF modulator box entirely shouldn't cause any issues. None that I can think of off hand.

[Keatah]

I guess i'll need to get a replacement for the static strips. They didn't survive removal, and barely survived disassembly.

 

I would think wires soldered to the switches would be sufficient. You'd have to work quickly so that the plastic parts of the switch don't melt. Or disassemble the switch before heating. There are other options like taping and gluing springy contacts to the metal switch body if you don't want to solder. If done thoughtfully and carefully, even taping wires would work. the issue is to have enough pressure to make contact, and tape tends to stretch out.. hence the spring suggestion. I bet there are 20 other ways I haven't thought of to remedy that problem.

[Kapikui]

^^^^^^^^^^ This...

 

Also the AV kit that the OP linked to..does state and have mention to break off the small board off the RF modulator, but I think you can leave it attached. It just produces artifacts in the video since it interferes with it. I personally cut them in the middle with my flush cutters. Then it is very easy to repair with a small bit of solder to bridge it back together.

 

Also a few other consoles to consider that used Red LEDs for power one indication:

 

NES

Intellivision System 3

Atari 5200

Atari 7800

Most computers of the era

 

So if the 5200 and the 7800 had Red LEDs, I can't think of any more period correct than that and from Atari to boot?

 

I hadn't thought of those, I might have to go with red after all. Whatever though blue is out.