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mojoatomic

Atari 2600 cap and voltage regulator kits

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I didn't either, didn't know it was needed but I didn't do the install, a local game store owner did. Do I need to take it back to him?

It's use is implied to pros, I'm sure he used some.

 

 

 

Aww... I ordered too early to get the heat sink compound.

 

I just reused what was there. Hasn't exploded yet. ;)

I'll send you some if you need it :-)

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It's use is implied to pros, I'm sure he used some.

 

I'll send you some if you need it :-)

 

 

Thanks for offering - but I think there was enough left that I scraped off the original. :)

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It's use is implied to pros, I'm sure he used some.

 

I'll send you some if you need it :-)

 

I'm pretty sure he used some. There's some white gunk on the used parts in the baggie when he gave me the baggie back, like it was on his fingers when he grabbed the used caps and put them back in the bag

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I'm pretty sure he used some. There's some white gunk on the used parts in the baggie when he gave me the baggie back, like it was on his fingers when he grabbed the used caps and put them back in the bag

 

 

Or it could've just been mayonnaise left over from lunch.

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Just received my 'Mojo Kit' :) , down here in Oz. Sturdy package. Excellent communication with Mojo. Very helpful indeed!

 

Thx Dougy :) :thumbsup:

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Mojo, I have a question. My 4 switch 2600 board is a revision 12, with a basic AV upgrade kit from Atariguy1021 (Sean). I'm about to purchase a Harmony Cart and I wasn't sure if I needed this kit or not. So far my VCS plays all 60+ games I have with no issues, but I understand that these parts are old and do wear out. I've also heard that the Harmony Cart may be more sensitive to out of spec caps than the old game carts. Should I go ahead and replace them now to avoid issues later on?

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So I've had this kit since March and I've finally worked up the nerve to install it in my 6-switch Atari(I'm not that savvy on the hardware side).

I've replaced these parts, and my Atari still works:
post-3056-0-37974600-1502146814_thumb.jpg

However, I don't know where these parts go:
post-3056-0-82228900-1502146826_thumb.jpg

I think I know where the blue ones go, one on the switch board just below the right difficulty switch, the other inside the RF shield, but the new parts are a different design. I suspect the 0>0> mark along with its corresponding short leg is important for orientation.

Likewise the dark green ones appear to have a leg that is slightly shorter, though not as pronounced as the blue ones, so I suspect there's an orientation to be concerned with for them as well.

 

Photos on where these go would be greatly appreciated, thanks! :)

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So I've had this kit since March and I've finally worked up the nerve to install it in my 6-switch Atari(I'm not that savvy on the hardware side).

 

I've replaced these parts, and my Atari still works:

attachicon.gifIMG_8797.jpg

 

However, I don't know where these parts go:

attachicon.gifIMG_8798.jpg

 

I think I know where the blue ones go, one on the switch board just below the right difficulty switch, the other inside the RF shield, but the new parts are a different design. I suspect the 0>0> mark along with its corresponding short leg is important for orientation.

 

Likewise the dark green ones appear to have a leg that is slightly shorter, though not as pronounced as the blue ones, so I suspect there's an orientation to be concerned with for them as well.

 

Photos on where these go would be greatly appreciated, thanks! :)

 

On the green chicklet caps, orientation doesn't matter. On radial electrolytic caps, it does. The marking is usually a white arrow which it is in your case. The arrow points to the ground (e.g., points in the direction of current flow, from the positive lead through the component to the ground lead. Also, on radial caps, the longer lead is positive. :)

 

Hope this helps!

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Hope this helps!

I think that helps - assuming I've identified the correct parts to replace, the 0>0> legs would be installed going through the holes pointed at in these photos.

 

post-3056-0-42659500-1502148949_thumb.jpg post-3056-0-56313900-1502148961_thumb.jpg

 

Now to figure out where green ones go :)

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I think that helps - assuming I've identified the correct parts to replace, the 0>0> legs would be installed going through the holes pointed at in these photos.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_8799.jpg attachicon.gifIMG_8800.jpg

 

Now to figure out where green ones go :)

 

Those caps on the Sixers are axial, not radial. I'm surprised someone would put together a capacitor replacement kit for Sixers and use radials to replace axials. It shouldn't matter but you'll have to fold them down against the board after installation for clearance reasons, probably. At least, for the one on the switchboard.

 

Not sure where the chicklets are intended, though. On a 4-Switch board, there's one down near the voltage regulator that generally goes out if the voltage regulator goes bad, and four others up near the controller ports in back.

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Those caps on the Sixers are axial, not radial. I'm surprised someone would put together a capacitor replacement kit for Sixers and use radials to replace axials.

The kit's from mojoatomic, who posted this on page 1:

In all cases, the 4.7uf caps will be radial. The supply for 4.7uf axial caps in the needed range is drying up, and the only ones I can find are nearly 10 year old stock or older - which makes them worthless. Rest assured, radials are electrically identical and work perfectly fine.

Not sure where the chicklets are intended, though. On a 4-Switch board, there's one down near the voltage regulator that generally goes out if the voltage regulator goes bad, and four others up near the controller ports in back.

I see 6, 1 on the switchboard (a bit larger than the new ones):

post-3056-0-99400000-1502150930_thumb.jpg

 

1 by TIA:

post-3056-0-31831300-1502150949_thumb.jpg

 

and 4 below the cartridge port(2 on either side):

post-3056-0-31276300-1502150978_thumb.jpg

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Mojo disappeared from the forums a while ago. He went on a trip to Europe, and never returned to the forums. I was supposed to get a restored 2600 from him :(

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It shouldn't matter but you'll have to fold them down against the board after installation for clearance reasons, probably. At least, for the one on the switchboard.

I gently bent the legs. Standing up it's still shorter than the red things next to it.

post-3056-0-77051900-1502223478_thumb.jpg

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Thanks!

 

Aha - the light sixer only needs 1 of the green ones.

 

I think my kit for my light sixer had the extra green one too.

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I gently bent the legs. Standing up it's still shorter than the red things next to it.

attachicon.gifIMG_8804.jpg

 

Fantastic. :)

 

So, have you reassembled it? If so, how's it working?

 

And if I might ask, what inspired you to replace the caps in the first place? I have 5 x 2600's and 2 x 7800's; the only caps I've had to replace on any of them were the chicklet caps (and voltage regulator) on a troublesome Vader I picked up for cheap; the RIOT was bad on that machine when I got it too (player 1 difficulty switch wouldn't register). I had to remove the old chip, installed a socket and replaced the chip. The picture was static-y and color would fade after about 10 minutes as well. Replaced the 7805 and nearby chicklet cap and voila. :)

 

But that's the only one.

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Yes, it's back together and seems to be working better.

 

Been having an off-color issue when first powered up for a half year or so now. Once it warmed up the colors would be OK. I'd been putting off installing the kit, as I've been busy working on CDF and Draconian, but this weekend the color issue got worse so I decided I didn't want to put it off any longer.

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The most important green "chicklet" capacitor is the one pictured, next to the voltage regulator.

That's the one that will cause "snow" immediately, or after a warm-up.

The other one at the top I've replaced, but noticed no difference. If the bottom one was bad, then the top probably is also.

The older systems had .1uF, but I recently read somewhere to always use .22uF, but both values will work.

post-29575-0-39626700-1503549572.jpg

 

 

The same part, but "newer", looks like a beige rectangle box.

I've used these without problem from this pictured "kit".

Until mojo returns, get all pictured below, plus thermal paste for $9.95 US.

post-29575-0-78888900-1503549570.jpg

 

 

Lost a spring in Reset or Select? Quick temporary fix! (Not my system, but cool nonetheless.)

post-29575-0-58496500-1503549571.jpg

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It looks like the OP has gone MIA and hasn't been on the forum for 2+ years, so is there another member that is offering these refresh" by chance?  Thank you!

 

I didn't realize that "Console5.com" was a thing, as the picture being watermarked just didn't immediately look legit to me.  I dug around on their site and found links to their kits, posted below:

 

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