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UAV - Ultimate Atari Video - Atari 7800

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My small set of them wasn't too bad. Maybe $20 I think. I got them on sale at Home Depot I think and it is the Ryobi brand. Same as my cordless drill I use. $20 is expensive as a one time use, but I've used mine over a dozen times now and haven't cracked a case yet. If you can't get forstner bits, then use an 1/8 inch bit as a pilot and work your way up from there. the only problem I have with that method is that it is harder to keep the holes lined up doing it this way.

 

Yeap...same price..here they are:

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-Forstner-Bit-Set-8-Piece-A9FS8R1/202078676

I'm adding some firebuttons to a CX80 Trackball. That set looks like it will work nicely.

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I've found that regular bits are fine, as long as you use a slower speed cordless bit driver/cordless drill. Corded high speed drills will smash a 7800 case faster than a hammer, but slower speeds and good newer still sharp bits with low hand/arm pressure is the key

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Just installed a UAV Basic board in a 7800. Using composite only since I don't have a TV/monitor w/s-video. When I powered it up, no picture. In fact I was getting no signal according to the TV. I left it powered while I went to get my multimeter. When I got back about 20 seconds later, a faint grey image of the game was on the screen (Galga). As I watched the screen grew brighter and the color started coming in till it was a clear bright picture. I turned it off then right back on and everything came back up as I would think it should, Atari boot screen then the game with a great picture. If I leave it off for 5 minutes or so it starts all over with the slow start, Gray picture, then slowly building up to full color. It's like it's having to warm up or something. Anybody got any ideas? If I need to post any pictures let me know.

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What does the little blue and white knob/tuner do?

That is for adjusting the artifacting. But it only works on the 8-bit line that I'm aware of and of course would really only been seen on composite. On a 7800 it does nothing at all, and I would assume the same on the 2600 as well.

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That is for adjusting the artifacting. But it only works on the 8-bit line that I'm aware of and of course would really only been seen on composite. On a 7800 it does nothing at all, and I would assume the same on the 2600 as well.

 

Doesn't do anything on the 2600 based on my personal experience.

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Doesn't do anything on the 2600 based on my personal experience.

 

I suspected as much. Figured if the knob didn't do anything on the 7800, it isn't likely to on the 2600 either. Now the 5200 I would guess it does since the 5200 and the 8-bit line share so much in common in their video.

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For the 7800, did you test the dial with a game that uses artifacting colors, like Tower Toppler?

Actually...Yes I did. No changes when turning it at all. Well..that isn't totally true. I did notice on one game only...Dark Chambers. That as you turn the knob the image pixels themselves seemed to shift slightly from left to right. But othewise no change. Even in dark chambers the colors never did change and I only noticed the pixel shifting on the maze walls. Not on the characters or items on the screen as I recall.

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Actually...Yes I did. No changes when turning it at all. Well..that isn't totally true. I did notice on one game only...Dark Chambers. That as you turn the knob the image pixels themselves seemed to shift slightly from left to right. But othewise no change. Even in dark chambers the colors never did change and I only noticed the pixel shifting on the maze walls. Not on the characters or items on the screen as I recall.

The pixel edge shift is expected, since the whole artifacting effect is based on the luma edge being misinterpreted as chroma frequency. Shifting the luma edge would be the only way to shift the artifacting color phase.

 

Dark Chambers uses a 160a mode, which is too coarse a pixel clock for real artifacting color. (same with 2600 games) The most you'll see is a very-subtle color shift at the very edge of a luma change. So no shock you didn't see much there.

 

It is odd that Tower Toppler doesn't see artifacting phase chage, as there's nothing conceptually different about 7800 artifacting and the A8 artifacting.

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The pixel edge shift is expected, since the whole artifacting effect is based on the luma edge being misinterpreted as chroma frequency. Shifting the luma edge would be the only way to shift the artifacting color phase.

 

Dark Chambers uses a 160a mode, which is too coarse a pixel clock for real artifacting color. (same with 2600 games) The most you'll see is a very-subtle color shift at the very edge of a luma change. So no shock you didn't see much there.

 

It is odd that Tower Toppler doesn't see artifacting phase chage, as there's nothing conceptually different about 7800 artifacting and the A8 artifacting.

 

I should mention that I didn't test the artifacting adjustment on a CRT...hehe. I was only using the s-video on my flatpanel. So it could be possible. But given that only a few wires are actually used on the 7800 installation and not the entire board, it is also possible that the artifacting adjustment is skipped entirely.

 

I can't recall where, but I believe Bryan himself said in the 8-bit forums that the artifacting adjustment was only for the 8-bit line since on those you actually use the pin header and attach the UAV to the 4050 inside them.

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That's right. Artifacting only works with composite video, since luma and chroma are mixed together there.

 

[edit: beat to the punch by Trebor. :)]

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Tower Toppler, my shoddy soldering, and PAL vs NTSC differences have all stopped me looking into modding my 7800. If this properly displays Tower Toppler through composite then I may be interested, especially as I could use s-video and just use a composite adapter for TT.

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Well, since I just modded another 7800 for a member here with the UAV and have some more work to do on the unit. I can take some pics of Tower Toppler running on it over the weekend through a composite connection? Even on my flatpanel I believe the artifacting works through Comp and I can try and adjust. I guess since everything in my personal setup is on s-video I didn't even think to mess with it much.

 

And I knew that artifacting didn't work over s-video or RGB...etc. But again I was under the impression that the adjustment didn't do anything at all really on the 7800 and 2600. I will see this weekend as my interest is piqued

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Curious question ...

 

I am wondering how the title screen on my WIP of Sky Scraper (linked here) would look under this device.

 

The title screen uses an interlaced 320B mode that displays 9 colors + BG per character per palette, with 2 possible palettes. It might look better in S-Video than on a CRT or ordinary TV due to no artifacting.

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I can test it tonight on my Concerto.

 

Do let us know the results as I can't get the roms posted in the thread for Sky Scraper to work on the Mateos 16 in 1 flashcart.

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Never seen that..but I also recently modded another users 7800 with the UAV and they have reported that Midnight Mutants causes severe flickering on the screen, but only on screens with lots of water? I don't see this with my UAV modded 7800. Wondered if it might be a TV thing? Do you still have the RF modulator installed? The one I just modded still has the RF modulator in it, but on mine I took my RF modulator out sometime back when I originally had the LHE mod installed.

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Never seen that..but I also recently modded another users 7800 with the UAV and they have reported that Midnight Mutants causes severe flickering on the screen, but only on screens with lots of water? I don't see this with my UAV modded 7800. Wondered if it might be a TV thing? Do you still have the RF modulator installed? The one I just modded still has the RF modulator in it, but on mine I took my RF modulator out sometime back when I originally had the LHE mod installed.

midnight mutants crashes once you try to play the game on my primary 7800 from concerto.

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