Wifi modem! Telnet from any computer with a serial port

[Sinphaltimus]

 

Here is the one I received pre-assembled from Paul a month ago. it's the same thing and I do not see any solder bridges or jumpers.

 

It works on the TI exactly as the pictures show. no jumpers or solder bridges.

My primary use is for Amiga so I have to do a solder bridge if it doesn't work without. Also, I can't build my kit. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/257387-ti-994a-modification-weekend/?p=3791364

 

So I'll probably resell it at a loss for cost of shipping unless the buyer doesn't mind the mark up. Then I'll have to order a preassembled one when they are available again.

 

Edited June 24, 2017 by Sinphaltimus

[Shift838]

My primary use is for Amiga so I have to do a solder bridge if it doesn't work without. Also, I can't build my kit. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/257387-ti-994a-modification-weekend/?p=3791364

 

So I'll probably resell it at a loss for cost of shipping unless the buyer doesn't mind the mark up. Then I'll have to order a preassembled one when they are available again.

 

 

instead of creating solder bridges you could just use a small piece of wire like from a ribbon cable to jump what you need.

 

If you are unsure if you need flow control, etc then you can try it with no bridges first.

 

The only part that will be more difficult to solder than the others is the USB port. Of course that is used to power the unit. Or from what I can see there is a through hole power terminal you can use and connect DV power supply. This should remove the need for the Micro USB connector.

 

I will double check with Paul (the developer) and repost back.

[Shift838]

My primary use is for Amiga so I have to do a solder bridge if it doesn't work without. Also, I can't build my kit. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/257387-ti-994a-modification-weekend/?p=3791364

 

So I'll probably resell it at a loss for cost of shipping unless the buyer doesn't mind the mark up. Then I'll have to order a preassembled one when they are available again.

 

 

I found a bullet in the assembly manual that states:

 

• Powered by a USB mini jack or solder terminals for your own power source.

 

So it appears you can choose how you want to power it, via USB or the 2 solder terminals.

 

The voltage regulator even though it's SMT the pins are spaced far enough apart to be able to easily solder.

Edited June 24, 2017 by Shift838

[Shift838]

Also Paul responded back to me and said there is no need for the USB connector that we can use just the Power Pins but there is no reverse polarity protector so double-check the polarity before hooking it up.

[Sinphaltimus]

That's great to know. i assumed it also might be for connecting to PC for configuring the Wifi because I skipped the manual mostly and went straight to the assembly instructions.

I'd really like to know the process for soldering such small connections. What would I do? Add a tiny drop of flux to the pads, hold it all together with a safe clamp and apply the solder to the area where the pad meets the pin while heating the pin?

It scared the heck out of me not knowing how to approach this.

[Shift838]

That's great to know. i assumed it also might be for connecting to PC for configuring the Wifi because I skipped the manual mostly and went straight to the assembly instructions.

 

I'd really like to know the process for soldering such small connections. What would I do? Add a tiny drop of flux to the pads, hold it all together with a safe clamp and apply the solder to the area where the pad meets the pin while heating the pin?

 

It scared the heck out of me not knowing how to approach this.

 

To sold really small connectors it's best to use small tip. apply a small amount of solder on each pad. Hold the component in place and reheat each pad to bind the solder to the component leg long enough to flow the solder between the pad and the leg.

 

SMT can be frustrating. The key is the correct solder iron and small enough tip.

 

i'm getting ready to put one of these together for Insane Multitasker.

 

The Mini USB is only used for power, not for programming it. the Wifi232 is already pre-programmed.

[Shift838]

That's great to know. i assumed it also might be for connecting to PC for configuring the Wifi because I skipped the manual mostly and went straight to the assembly instructions.

 

I'd really like to know the process for soldering such small connections. What would I do? Add a tiny drop of flux to the pads, hold it all together with a safe clamp and apply the solder to the area where the pad meets the pin while heating the pin?

 

It scared the heck out of me not knowing how to approach this.

 

since the Mini USB only provides power then if I read the schematics correctly we only need to worry about hooking up both outside pins for power.. going to verify that too. If so then it will be easier to solder.

[+acadiel]

 

since the Mini USB only provides power then if I read the schematics correctly we only need to worry about hooking up both outside pins for power.. going to verify that too. If so then it will be easier to solder.

 

 

Yep, that's the only part I couldn't solder, but he does give a jumper header for alternative power, which I Will be using... The regulator wasn't really hard to solder for me.

 

Someone from AHCS said they'll try next meeting to take a stab at the USB soldering, but in the meantime, I'll use the power header.

[+Ksarul]

One note: it is a whole lot easier to solder SMT stuff using solder paste. Put a little of it onto each of the traces you need to solder, carefully position the component, make sure you didn't smear the paste into the spaces between the traces (cleanup can be done with a toothpick, as can application), and run over the component leads one by one with a fine point iron (or a blast from a hot air gun designed for precision soldering).

[Sinphaltimus]

Solder paste! I'll have to get me some.

 

How's this look? https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Leaded-Solder-Syringe/dp/B00TIC895Y/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498397525&sr=8-5&keywords=solder+paste

Edited June 25, 2017 by Sinphaltimus

[+Ksarul]

That should get you where you want to go. . .and the small tube will be more than enough to keep you busy for a long time!

[Shift838]

 

 

Yep, that's the only part I couldn't solder, but he does give a jumper header for alternative power, which I Will be using... The regulator wasn't really hard to solder for me.

 

Someone from AHCS said they'll try next meeting to take a stab at the USB soldering, but in the meantime, I'll use the power header.

 

Paul said we will only need to solder the V+ and the Negative so that should be only the outside pins of the Mini USB.

[Shift838]

i went through and assembled the kit today and it works great.

 

for everyone that is assembling it. Remember the this version of the WiFi232 has been set to 1200 baud so I used Mass Transfer to set it to 19200 then went into TIMXT at 19200 and saved the settings.

 

Also I have tested it uploading/downloading with Heatwave and Fusion BBS. The max baudrate is 9600 that I have been able to upload and 19200 is the max I have been able to download.

 

There is also new firmware available than whats loaded on it (mine anyway). Once you get it to the baudrate you want and connected to your WiFi network, in the terminal type:

 

to check for new firmware:

 

ATUPDATECHECK (press enter)

 

If an update is available type:

 

ATUPDATE (press enter)

Edited June 25, 2017 by Shift838

[Sinphaltimus]

I'm guessing I have to solder bridge these for it to work with Amiga, do you think it will still function with TI once doing so?
"In my testing using NComm on the Amiga, it required the DTR/DSR loop to work."

 

EDIT: or do you have an A500 you can test it with?

Edited June 25, 2017 by Sinphaltimus

[Shift838]

I'm guessing I have to solder bridge these for it to work with Amiga, do you think it will still function with TI once doing so?

"In my testing using NComm on the Amiga, it required the DTR/DSR loop to work."

 

EDIT: or do you have an A500 you can test it with?

 

since the TI does not use hardware flow control then I would think it will not work. What I would do if I were you is to use another small circuit board and solder some headers on it for use with jumpers for the DCD/DTR, DTR/DSR, FLOW IN and FLOW OUT and use jumpers so you can make it work for any computer based on jumper settings. Use some ribbon cable to solder from the header to the contact pads.

Edited June 25, 2017 by Shift838

[Sinphaltimus]

That was my original plan until I saw it was pads for soldering. would love to have had those through holes for direct pin soldering. i supposed I'll figure it out. The TI gets out to BBses right now via serial and PC so I might just make this for Amiga only.

[+arcadeshopper]

I got mine in the mail Sat.. I'm assuming we need a modem cable for this to work? 2/3 3/2?

 

Greg

[+arcadeshopper]

I got mine in the mail Sat.. I'm assuming we need a modem cable for this to work? 2/3 3/2?

 

Greg

 

All I needed for the nano was a 9-25 adapter works great got timxt loaded to set it up at 1200 baud and bumped it up to 38400 and :

[+InsaneMultitasker]

Nice! The nano-peb creator did a good job of choosing the standard pinout for that serial port. It makes life so much easier!

[+arcadeshopper]

Nice! The nano-peb creator did a good job of choosing the standard pinout for that serial port. It makes life so much easier!

 

yes and no.. yes good if you are hooking up PC cables/devices no if you are expecting it to work like the rest of your TI gear

[Sinphaltimus]

OK, so I completed the assembly. I load up TIMXT for nano v4. As per the instructions I set the rs232 baud rate to 1200. When I return to the emulator screen, it locks up after just a few second. I can't type or hit fctn+9 to get back to the settings.

I am using a standard PC adaptor to go from the rs232 on the wifi modem to 9 pin serial. I'm guessing that won't work. I need a special adaptor created or something?

[Sinphaltimus]

Yep, that was the issue - I connected the custom adaptor I made for my UDS-10 and it is working thus far,. i just got it connected to my wifi, now to try and connect to FUSION BBS - may take me a bit to setup things. I think 38.4 is a good baud rate eh?

WHOOHOO! connected and logged in.

Edited July 16, 2017 by Sinphaltimus

[Sinphaltimus]

One note: it is a whole lot easier to solder SMT stuff using solder paste. Put a little of it onto each of the traces you need to solder, carefully position the component, make sure you didn't smear the paste into the spaces between the traces (cleanup can be done with a toothpick, as can application), and run over the component leads one by one with a fine point iron (or a blast from a hot air gun designed for precision soldering).

Solder paste worked out great! Thank You!

[Zap!]

 

Yes, I have one and it works pretty good. But keep in mind there are issues transferring files with this little gem for the TI. I have had success getting mine to work on while connecting to FuSiON BBS, bu t have not had success with Heatwave. The insane one is looking into it. We are hoping we are close to a solution.

 

Did you ever resolve the issue with transferring files?

[Omega-TI]

Yep, that was the issue - I connected the custom adaptor I made for my UDS-10 and it is working thus far,. i just got it connected to my wifi, now to try and connect to FUSION BBS - may take me a bit to setup things. I think 38.4 is a good baud rate eh?

 

WHOOHOO! connected and logged in.

 

I connected a Vonets WiFi device (shown below) up to my TI back in 2015, and it works fine... except when I change my routers PW, then I have to disconnect it and hook it up to my PC to reset the password. Would I gain anything in daily operation if I upgraded with a new gadget?