ls650 #976 Posted April 11, 2020 Have you contacted Starwander to let him know of the problem? I've found him very reasonable to deal with. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad Scientist #977 Posted April 21, 2020 I identified and resolved the problem with my Starwander pro-controller. There were issue with the ribbon cable. It is installed with a severe amount of bend, with long leads extending through the keypad's circuit board. On mine, the wire for one button had broken at the ribbon. In messing around with alignment, wiring for the directional pad was similarly affected. I stripped, fluxed, and re-soldered the impacted lines, and I now have a fully functioning controller. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JagChris #978 Posted April 21, 2020 I just got mine and so far works great. I hope I don't run into these issues and gave to track down a solder person Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg2600 #979 Posted March 23, 2021 On 4/21/2020 at 5:29 PM, JagChris said: I just got mine and so far works great. I hope I don't run into these issues and gave to track down a solder person So these Pro's are safe to buy again? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DragonFire #980 Posted March 23, 2021 They were never unsafe, a few just have minor issues that are easy to fix. Based on this thread, it seems that the original controllers have the same issues, so they’re just quirks of the original design. How many production runs have there been? Are there plans to produce more if these run out? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leech #981 Posted March 23, 2021 9 minutes ago, DragonFire said: They were never unsafe, a few just have minor issues that are easy to fix. Based on this thread, it seems that the original controllers have the same issues, so they’re just quirks of the original design. How many production runs have there been? Are there plans to produce more if these run out? Yeah, I bought two of these. They aren't quite as nice as my original one (like the plastic feels a tad cheaper) and one of them had an issue with one of the buttons, but like you said, an easy fix. They are definitely worth it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
3dfx #982 Posted October 30, 2021 Hi guys, will there be sometime again the possibility to buy this pad at a normal price? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Albert #983 Posted October 30, 2021 2 minutes ago, 3dfx said: Hi guys, will there be sometime again the possibility to buy this pad at a normal price? I will be adding them back to the AtariAge Store soon. ..Al 1 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hyper_Eye #984 Posted October 31, 2021 20 hours ago, 3dfx said: Hi guys, will there be sometime again the possibility to buy this pad at a normal price? Songbird Productions has it in stock: https://songbird-productions.com/product/jaguar-procontroller/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+Starwander #985 Posted October 31, 2021 On 3/23/2021 at 11:15 AM, DragonFire said: They were never unsafe, a few just have minor issues that are easy to fix. Based on this thread, it seems that the original controllers have the same issues, so they’re just quirks of the original design. How many production runs have there been? Are there plans to produce more if these run out? I am still on the first production run of these actually Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
3dfx #986 Posted November 17, 2021 does anyone know a source from the EU? the customs with us is very strict Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+cubanismo #987 Posted March 12 (edited) Ran into two issues with one of my reproduction pro controllers, which led to a third: Pressing D-Pad down would also trigger D-Pad right quite often. This made things like Rayman really hard when trying to crouch. The rubber button under D-pad right was starting to stick. I could hear it pop up some time after I released the D-pad. This made most games nearly unplayable. I opened things up and resolved both issues by removing, cleaning, and rotating the rubber button assembly under the D-pad 90 degrees clockwise such that the original "right" button was now "down" instead, and straightening the upper PCB as recommended earlier in this thread. I also noticed a scrap of plastic from where the D-Pad was presumably separated from its neighbors and/or injection channel flange bits after coming out of the mold had broken off and appeared to have been partially wedged under some button as best as I can tell, but fell out when I first opened the controller. Not clear if it had been part of the cause of either problem. However, when taking the controller apart, I noted the phillips head socket of one of the screws holding it together was almost completely stripped. I managed to get it out by applying a lot of downward pressure and turning it very, very slowly, but there's no way I'm sticking this thing back in there. I'm not even sure I could tighten it down again if I tried. @Starwander, any chance you know where I can get a replacement? The controller is a bit loose with only three out of four screws in place. This had been my primary controller for over a year up until recently, so it got some pretty heavy use and is still going strong after these adjustments, modulo the missing screw. Edit: To be clear, just looking for specs of the screw or pointer to a replacement source for the screw, not a replacement controller. It's the top-left screw looking at the assembled controller from the back, but I'm assuming they're all the same. Edited March 12 by cubanismo Clarify. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JagChris #988 Posted March 13 My D pad sticks. Most notably to the right. And it's rather creaky like it's loose. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bratwurst #989 Posted March 14 On 3/12/2022 at 8:21 PM, JagChris said: My D pad sticks. Most notably to the right. And it's rather creaky like it's loose. Try these, I redesigned the D-pad interface for both 6-button and 3-button controllers: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/319600-jaguar-d-pad-upgrade-78002600-joysticks/ 2 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+Starwander #990 Posted March 15 On 3/12/2022 at 12:07 AM, cubanismo said: Ran into two issues with one of my reproduction pro controllers, which led to a third: Pressing D-Pad down would also trigger D-Pad right quite often. This made things like Rayman really hard when trying to crouch. The rubber button under D-pad right was starting to stick. I could hear it pop up some time after I released the D-pad. This made most games nearly unplayable. I opened things up and resolved both issues by removing, cleaning, and rotating the rubber button assembly under the D-pad 90 degrees clockwise such that the original "right" button was now "down" instead, and straightening the upper PCB as recommended earlier in this thread. I also noticed a scrap of plastic from where the D-Pad was presumably separated from its neighbors and/or injection channel flange bits after coming out of the mold had broken off and appeared to have been partially wedged under some button as best as I can tell, but fell out when I first opened the controller. Not clear if it had been part of the cause of either problem. However, when taking the controller apart, I noted the phillips head socket of one of the screws holding it together was almost completely stripped. I managed to get it out by applying a lot of downward pressure and turning it very, very slowly, but there's no way I'm sticking this thing back in there. I'm not even sure I could tighten it down again if I tried. @Starwander, any chance you know where I can get a replacement? The controller is a bit loose with only three out of four screws in place. This had been my primary controller for over a year up until recently, so it got some pretty heavy use and is still going strong after these adjustments, modulo the missing screw. Edit: To be clear, just looking for specs of the screw or pointer to a replacement source for the screw, not a replacement controller. It's the top-left screw looking at the assembled controller from the back, but I'm assuming they're all the same. Message me your address and I am sure I can find you some. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+Starwander #991 Posted March 15 On 3/12/2022 at 6:21 PM, JagChris said: My D pad sticks. Most notably to the right. And it's rather creaky like it's loose. Try out Bratwurst's suggestion as it is the best add on option. You can also try what Cubanismo did in the post above you and it should fix this issue. If you are still having issues message me. 1 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+cubanismo #992 Posted March 19 Just want to say @Starwander definitely followed through and took care of me here. Great service, and I love these controllers. The Gravitic Mines demo (Still waiting ffor the full version) just wouldn't be the same without them. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+CyranoJ #993 Posted March 19 19 minutes ago, cubanismo said: Just want to say @Starwander definitely followed through and took care of me here. Great service, and I love these controllers. The Gravitic Mines demo (Still waiting ffor the full version) just wouldn't be the same without them. I never owned a pro-controller (and wasn't going to pay insane money for one!) so yes, @Starwander certainly played a huge role in GM having ProController support - and the shoulder buttons make a HUGE difference. 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+cubanismo #994 Posted May 20 FYI, even though my problem was resolved (Thanks again), I couldn't let the search for the proper screws go. After much wrangling of calipers and searching of aliexpress and eBay, I believe the correct screw is a 10mm M2.6 pan-head self-tapping phillips screw with a blunt rather than sharp end (In US sheet metal screws, I believe this is referred to as type B, but I'm not entirely certain. That also seems to correspond to finer thread size. I've found the wonderful world of fasteners is nearly as complex as that of circuit components). Here are the ones I ordered and verified work well: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002424432889.html Or if you prefer black (These are the same screws as one of those used to hold the two halves of the Sega Master System Light Phaser together), these work too: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803144062450.html A pack of 100 of each was roughly $5 total including economy shipping. The stainless steel ones were under $2 total by themselves. If you're in the US and need a couple in under 2 months though, PM me. I have more than a few spares given I didn't even need them for the controller anymore. 3 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites