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Heat resistance SIO plug


ivop

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Hi,

 

Just in case I'm about to ruin a perfectly fine SIO plug, does anybody know what temperatures it can resist? I "need" around 100℃ - 130. Do you think it will survive that or will it start melting already?

 

Regards,

Ivo

Edited by ivop
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Hi,

 

Just in case I'm about to ruin a perfectly fine SIO plug, does anybody know what temperatures it can resist? I "need" around 100℃ - 130. Do you think it will survive that or will it start melting already?

 

Regards,

Ivo

 

I guess the plug will withstand this temperature. 3D print temperature of ABS is higher than 200°C, so if the SIO plugs is also ABS (a guess too), I would expect not much more than a bit softening of the material.

(Maybe you are able to produce a mould (wink, wink) with silicone or latex at room temperature too.)

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I have done Silicone molds in the past and that would be too soft, but you're right about the mold part :) I'm thinking Polymer clay (which contains no clay at all btw). It's soft like clay at room temperature but after baking it at 110℃(230℉) for 20-30 minutes, it becomes solid PVC.

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On the other end, there is Polycaprolactone, which is solid at room temperature and can be melted by heating it to 60℃(140℉) or a little more, it becomes "kneadable". When it cools, it becomes solid again and very tough.

 

Edit: not sure BTW which material will become the mold, or maybe a combination with 3D printing or perhaps it all fails and I'll have to think of something completely different :)

Edited by ivop
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I have done Silicone molds in the past and that would be too soft, but you're right about the mold part :) I'm thinking Polymer clay (which contains no clay at all btw). It's soft like clay at room temperature but after baking it at 110℃(230℉) for 20-30 minutes, it becomes solid PVC.

 

If I remember correctly this material shrinks when heated? Not sure if this would fit the purpose.

What about Montezuma's plug solution from his SIO2BT? These should fit/match?

Edited by Irgendwer
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I think you would be fine at 130 as long as you dont touch it and let everything settle back down, I know the remaining wave solder at my work gets hotter than that for preheating, but its a ram to a peak and a sharp ramp back down, its not sustained heat (and its much less hot than the solder side or a lead free reflow oven)

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Update: SIO plug survives 130℃ perfectly fine. Polymer Clay does indeed shrink a little when it becomes solid (like Irgendwer said). Can Montezuma's design be downloaded somewhere?

 

Edit: I found Montezuma's files. It's extended, but otherwise the same as the one I had already printed (and didn't fit nicely).

Edited by ivop
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I also found this one:

 

http://modelmarket3d.com/pl/elektronika/96-atari-sio-plug.html

 

Looked at the 3D models with their viewer and although it looks more accurate and a better ledge to keep the plug in the housing, the dimensions seem completely off :/ Perhaps the shown model is not the same as the one you get when they print it for you?

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I also found this one:

 

http://modelmarket3d.com/pl/elektronika/96-atari-sio-plug.html

 

Looked at the 3D models with their viewer and although it looks more accurate and a better ledge to keep the plug in the housing, the dimensions seem completely off :/ Perhaps the shown model is not the same as the one you get when they print it for you?

 

The guy is selling a file for a 3D printable version of the SIO plug? Or?

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The guy is selling a file for a 3D printable version of the SIO plug? Or?

 

I was under the impression they also had a printing service, but I think you are right and that they only sell 3D models. Well, for 3.99zln (1 euro) I bought one. Payment accepted. Now I have to wait.

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Thanks. Please let us know how this experiment goes. Are the plastics used for parts production pretty sturdy? My only experience with 3D pieces is my UNO Cart with a 3D shell. Seems sturdy, but then it is a very simple shape and pretty thick.

 

-Larry

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printing wise round holes are better than square, you got to keep in mind unless your doing something with a high end powder printer or similar (like a soluble support material) you have to build the next layer on top of the last, thus at the top of a square hole you have a large gap to bridge

 

round hole is 2 arch's so by the time you get to the top its a very minor gap to jump ... I am no expert on it, I just have a 200$ kit printer but easily done round holes on the Z axis inches in diameter, square ... over a cm they start getting droopy

 

also have to keep in mind if its a solid hole or one split across to halves of a shell

Edited by Osgeld
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  • 1 month later...

Then there is free sio male cable end which you can 3d print yourself.

The pins that work can be atx power supply pins on a wire to inset or

Molex part # 08-50-0105

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1831769

 

Someone on the facebook side pointed me in the right direction.

 

I was aware of this plug, but unfortunately it is very difficult to get a right print. Everything is too tightly designed. I want a plug that can easily be printed on a sub-$300 desktop printer, in PLA, on a cold bed, with 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.1-0.2 mm layer height. I'm almost done designing one. It'll be a two part design, i.e. like an enclosure and a lid. No more problems with two halves not fitting well and the "insert" part not fitting in between. When it's done, I'll share the files on github or thingiverse.

Edited by ivop
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It'll be a two part design, i.e. like an enclosure and a lid.

 

You may can save (printing-) time/costs and construction efforts by utilising these standard SUB-D housings:

 

post-7778-0-94737700-1317247975.jpg

 

In the mean time I found a source for black ones:

 

https://www.henri.de/bauelemente/steckverbinder/sub-d-verbinder/d-sub-hauben-kunststoff/20373/9pol-sub-d-haube-kunststoff-schwarz.html

 

40-871-00035-PH9DT-EVE-2012-BIG.jpg

Edited by Irgendwer
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