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1088XEL Atari ITX Motherboard DIY Builders Thread

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Thx. Of course, I know your website. Therefrom I got a lot of very helpful informations. :thumbsup: :-)

 

Sometimes, finding too much information causes confusion... ;)

 

Sleepy

 

Once a project is complete and released, I try to get all the final information to my website. Still have a few more to get done, but usually that's the best place to find the correct information.

 

Good luck with your VBXE installation Sleepy. If I find the more specific instructions on that I'll provide a link.

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Well, some time ago I installed a VBXE in my XEGS; so I´m optimistic that I´m successful this time, too. ;)

 

If so, I´ll try to compile the necessary information and post it.

 

Mechanical assembly so far:

post-18285-0-06965900-1549920241.jpg

I changed the connector J4 to a standing one.

 

The pcb is sustained by two spacers between XEL-pcb and VBXE-pcb.

post-18285-0-97109300-1549920938_thumb.jpg

 

The "sub-chassis" comming with the housing is used to hold two spacers that keep sophia and vbxe in place (if XEL should ever tumble... :-o ):

post-18285-0-15840700-1549920412.jpg

post-18285-0-67368700-1549920653.jpg

 

Sleepy

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Nice - VBXE and Sophia. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I've not installed either in my 1088 (who am I kidding - in any of my machines) yet.

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Nice - VBXE and Sophia. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I've not installed either in my 1088 (who am I kidding - in any of my machines) yet.

 

Ditto. I made provisions on the back plate of my 1088XEL for a DVI SOPHIA but, well, other uses for that money keep appearing ... *sigh*

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Ditto. I made provisions on the back plate of my 1088XEL for a DVI SOPHIA but, well, other uses for that money keep appearing ... *sigh*

 

I have both the RGB and DVI versions of Sophia, but no back plate for my 1088XEL -- yet. I'm probably going to stick with the DVI in the 1088XEL and the RGB in the 1088XLD.

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Probably unlikely that a capacitor would have any bearing on this.

 

If you are going to order new parts, go ahead and cut the leads on Q2 the presumed NPN transistor so that you can better read it's markings. This also has merit, in that doing so eliminates what I will call the pre-switch for Q1. So after cutting it out, apply power once again with the 555 timer removed and see if the system stays OFF. If it does, there is a good chance that Q2 was either bad or the wrong part. If the system still comes on without the 555, then remove Q1 and see what happens. If it still comes on without Q1, then there is a serious bridge somewhere (hopefully not in one of the inner layers of the PCB).

Hi Mytek,

 

Sorry for this long delay but I had no time to do Atari related things last week.

I did what you suggested and here are the results :

 

1) I cut Q2. It was a 2222. Then I removed the 555. The system still goes ON.

2) then I cut Q1. 555 still removed. The system stays OFF.

 

Does it mean that Q1 was damaged (maybe when I soldered it on the board) ?

Do you think replacing these 2 components will cure the issue or do you want me to do other tests before replacing them ?

 

I am still waiting for both components to arrive but when I have them, I replace them and tell you if the issue is still there.

 

Thank you for your help !

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Yes it sure does sound like Q1 was damaged, and that replacing these with new components should solve the problem. Keep in mind that Q1 is static sensitive, and you should be sure to discharge any static electricity you may have by touching a grounded surface before touching and soldering on this part.

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Yes it sure does sound like Q1 was damaged, and that replacing these with new components should solve the problem. Keep in mind that Q1 is static sensitive, and you should be sure to discharge any static electricity you may have by touching a grounded surface before touching and soldering on this part.

 

Hi MyTek,

Thank you so much for your help.

Your diagnostic was right.

I received Q1 today and immediately replaced it and YESSSSS, it's working perfectly.

I put the board in the H60 case so I won't touch any sensitive chips or components anymore !

That was a great adventure building this wonderful computer.

I am waiting for the rear panel which I should receive next week.

I can not wait to build your next baby (1088XLD) !

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Ebiguy I'm glad you are now up and running :) .

 

With the components mounted in the board, they are a lot less static sensitive. And even better having the board in the metal grounded case.

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I wrote a little "photo-story" how to fit the 1088XEL with a VBXE.

 

Does anybody have the desire to translate the text from german to english? If I try, it would take a lot of time and probably expression suffers...

 

Sleepy

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I wrote a little "photo-story" how to fit the 1088XEL with a VBXE.

 

Does anybody have the desire to translate the text from german to english? If I try, it would take a lot of time and probably expression suffers...

 

Sleepy

 

 

 

Sure. Send it along. Since I have installed a couple, it should be a little more straightforward than someone just translating.

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Hi,

 

I was wondering if there is enough space to put both XEL-CF3 board and a Rapidus board.

In a previous message, there is a picture made by flashjazzcat with a rapidus but without XEL-CF3 (or was it there but fully hidden under Rapidus ?)

When I look at both boards, I don't see any way to put both boards (even with stacked sockets) at the same time.

It seems that both boards partially cover the socket of the other one.

Can someone explain and post a picture if he managed to do that ?

And if it is possible, which Rapidus model (XL or XE) ?

 

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Hi,

 

I was wondering if there is enough space to put both XEL-CF3 board and a Rapidus board.

In a previous message, there is a picture made by flashjazzcat with a rapidus but without XEL-CF3 (or was it there but fully hidden under Rapidus ?)

When I look at both boards, I don't see any way to put both boards (even with stacked sockets) at the same time.

It seems that both boards partially cover the socket of the other one.

Can someone explain and post a picture if he managed to do that ?

And if it is possible, which Rapidus model (XL or XE) ?

 

 

 

There is not enough room. I have tried many solutions, none have worked (so far). I do not think the XL version will work at all, but I have not tried it yet.

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Hi,

 

I was wondering if there is enough space to put both XEL-CF3 board and a Rapidus board.

In a previous message, there is a picture made by flashjazzcat with a rapidus but without XEL-CF3 (or was it there but fully hidden under Rapidus ?)

 

Maybe you can extend the MPBI with help of a (selfmade) ribbon cable (something like this, but with matching numbers of pins)...

post-18285-0-00310800-1552465259.jpg

...and place the CF 3 somewhere else in the housing?

 

Sleepy

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Maybe you can extend the MPBI with help of a (selfmade) ribbon cable (something like this, but with matching numbers of pins)...

attachicon.gifIDC-IDC-20-2-x-10-polig-Verlängerungkabel.jpg

...and place the CF 3 somewhere else in the housing?

 

Sleepy

 

 

I tried that. It introduces too much noise into the system and the CF card becomes unstable. I also tried shielded cabling. It is marginally better, but not perfect.

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Where can I get an XEL board in the UK or Europe?

 

th_ff might have one or two bare boards available. He's in Germany and the shipping might be a lot less than from the USA.

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As far as I know, he sold all boards.

 

source

 

But this post was done november 2018 - to be sure ask him. :-)

 

Good luck, Sleepy

Edited by Sleepy

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Where can I get an XEL board in the UK or Europe?

 

I do not know how much postage is within EU/UK, but I can send one board to the EU/UK for US$15, so a total of $30. That's about GBP20, I think. They are on the website:

https://www.thebrewingacademy.com/

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That´s not more (in fact currently even cheaper) than shipment from germany; last year, it was 30€ + p&p (Eine Platine (Materialpreis, Porto aus China und Zoll/Einfuhr-MwSt.) kostet 30 Euro zzgl. Porto.).

 

So clear recommendation for the brewinga cademy,

Sleepy

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Looking for the S-Video/RCA Combo connector if anyone has spares. PM Me

 

 

I have them. I have all the parts on the BOM

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So my 1088XEL is "Finished" in the sense that I just need to insert IC's

 

I tried testing the power without any IC's in it as I've heard you should, and nothing is happening.

Could it be the Power Supply I'm using?https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-ac-adapter-black/5019131.p?skuId=5019131

 

You say nothing’s happening but there’s not much that *can* happen without the chips. :) If you mean the yellow and green LED’s aren’t lighting up, then it could be as simple as the LED being soldered in backward (I did that the first time, d’oh!). Also, the power circuit of the XEL requires you to momentarily short two pins to turn the board on. These are intended to be wired to a momentary contact switch such as the front panel button on a mini-ATX case but you can touch the two pins with a metal screwdriver or something to trigger it.

 

But if the LEDs are installed correctly, it could be anything, really. Have you verified tip polarity and the actual voltage coming from the the power supply? If so, then you need to break out the multimeter and start checking the power at some points around the bare board and see what’s going on. Google up the Atari IC pinouts or check Michael’s schematics to find the Vcc (+5V) and Vss (ground) points for each and ensure that you’re seeing very close to 5 volts at each Vcc point. If not, start tracing the schematics back to find out where the issue is. If those look good, start checking the Vcc and Vss points on each logic chip, etc.

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