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1088XEL Atari ITX Motherboard DIY Builders Thread

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Well, to fire up and test operation, you will of course need the U1MB installed and working.  Also, the UAV board needs installed.

 

HOWEVER - before doing any tests, I very much recommend doing a power test with all the ICs (except the 555 in the power reset circuit) removed.  This way, you can test for 5VDC on the proper pins.

 

Then, before the real powerup, double check then triple check the orientation of all ICs.  I fried a PAL ANTIC and nearly blistered my finger when powering up my 1088XLD because of that :(  1st IC I have destroyed from improper insertion since the mid 90s when I popped a 486 (square and symmetrical).

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SO this is what I got from Lotharek..   I am not able to see a tracer mask.. but it does make troubleshooting difficult. The last image called connections is what I sent back to him with this msg.

 

Ok, so Pin 1 seems to make both connections.. so its ok.

 
pin 9 no - I have shown what I think is pin 15 of the xill  (this scares me -- do I do end of leg closest to board? or closests to chip?)
 
pin 15 no - again show where I think I make the connection. 
 
Now this is what I SEE I have damaged.. I have no idea if all others are making contacts.. because I dont know where to test continuity to and from.
 

----------------------------------------------

  • PIN 1 - VCC  (EASY)
  • top - left side of R1
  • bottom - right side of r6

 

  • pin 9 cas inhibit IN (shit..hard solderding) 
  • xillinx pin 15 

 

  • pin 15 - BASIC -  easy
  • R7 rigt side 

 

rule - right side of resistor is when you read letterd R7 normally; not upside down

 

 

pojehjnfdakngmhd.png

newboard.jpg

 

Edited by Bikerbob
fix error

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Question, what solder in x2 but socket x1???  I accidently solded in x1.. any issue?

 

James

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11 minutes ago, Bikerbob said:

Question, what solder in x2 but socket x1???  I accidently solded in x1.. any issue?

 

James

Well one of those is the system clock and the other is the PAL colorburst clock, IIRC. Check the BOM to see which is which. 

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Yes.. thats correct.. x1 is system clock and x2 is pal burt.. (I am ntsc - Canada)  but they are both in the board now.. and soldered.. thats no biggie right?? 

 

James

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Just now, Bikerbob said:

Yes.. thats correct.. x1 is system clock and x2 is pal burt.. (I am ntsc - Canada)  but they are both in the board now.. and soldered.. thats no biggie right?? 

 

James

As long as they are in the correct location, no.  You will, of course, never be able to switch it to PAL unless you de-solder X1.

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OK.. just realised my last post picture was wrong.. here are the correct pictures.

 

James

solderside.thumb.jpg.403f7c174cd90d96bb8d9bfcbd2340e7.jpg

newboard.thumb.jpg.ad58ce6c735d8ef9dd826d7fff1a527c.jpg

 

Edited by Bikerbob

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Wish there was a way to edit something later.. but there is not.. the earlier pics show the wrong pictures..  Except for the diagram.. The pics I did.. so these are not from Lotharek.. just making sure no one is thinking he is sending out incorrect stuff.

 

James

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6 minutes ago, Bikerbob said:

Wish there was a way to edit something later.. but there is not.. the earlier pics show the wrong pictures..  Except for the diagram.. The pics I did.. so these are not from Lotharek.. just making sure no one is thinking he is sending out incorrect stuff.

 

James

when a mistake of this nature is made it is important enough that you report yourself and have the message edited by a moderator or have the permission requested to do so yourself. Please utilize that feature of the forum!

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5 minutes ago, Bikerbob said:

Wish there was a way to edit something later.. but there is not.. the earlier pics show the wrong pictures..  Except for the diagram.. The pics I did.. so these are not from Lotharek.. just making sure no one is thinking he is sending out incorrect stuff.

 

James

Just become a subscriber to Atariage then one of the perks is to edit post;)

 

Mike

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18 minutes ago, Bikerbob said:

Wish there was a way to edit something later.. but there is not.. the earlier pics show the wrong pictures..  Except for the diagram.. The pics I did.. so these are not from Lotharek.. just making sure no one is thinking he is sending out incorrect stuff.

I granted permission to edit your earlier post, so if you wish, you should now be able to replace/remove the pictures.

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ok.. after figuring out how to look at this without twisting my brain this is where I am at.

 

So I have tested all the points I thought I messed up.. SO far .. knock on wood - once I stopped messing it up.. I got all the right connections tested and they work!!!! 

 

When I first contacted lotharek  I showed him Pic 1.. frontside.jpg  see the two that I pulled the pads?? Then he sent front P5 header.jpg back to me.. Saying that the pin7 of the P5 header goes to A8 which he says is the pin highlighted on the A8 location mask.png pic.  His diagram to me shows pin7 to IO.. and lastpic.jpg shows the trace from pin7 up around 13 between it and 15.. i have checked I caused no bridges and to the point near the battery I get a good continuity check.. BUT I do not to the indicated A8..  I cannot see the traces under the battery.. can anyone confirm where pin7 goes to??

 

NOW - since I am getting a good signal on pin7 past the header.. I did not damage it from the desoldering.. so .. no matter where it is supposed to go.. if it oringally worked.. then it still does because I did not damage it.. SO do I just go ahead and plug all this into the board??? Can I do any more damage??

 

James

frontside.jpg

front P5 header.jpg

lastpic.jpg

20pin header pinout.jpg

A8 location mask.png

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looks like you have damage to a number of traces such as the pin that goes to r8 etc.. you are going to have to make short jumps to each of those kinds of half pulled/damaged points.

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They have all been tested and they all are good.

 

James

 

BTW.. what is it that the PIC chips picked for this board cannot be programmed with INDUSTRY standard PIC programmers..    Seems I now need one of these JOY2PIC.. to get my 1088xel going.. :(

 

 

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Pin 7 on the MMU header goes to ~pin 6 on the CPLD. A8 isn't even listed on the pinout of the MMU connector so I'm not sure why it would be mentioned. Pin 7 is labelled 'IO'.

 

Put the meter in diode mode, put one probe on pin 7, and drag the other across pins 5-7 of the CPLD. If you get a ping, you're good. If not, don't worry about which CPLD pin it goes to: just repair the 1mm distance between the via and the outboard trace. ;)

Edited by flashjazzcat
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3 hours ago, Bikerbob said:

They have all been tested and they all are good.

 

James

 

BTW.. what is it that the PIC chips picked for this board cannot be programmed with INDUSTRY standard PIC programmers..    Seems I now need one of these JOY2PIC.. to get my 1088xel going.. :(

 

 

The PIC chips can be programmed with INDUSTRY standard PIC programmers as long as they support that particular PIC.   Some do, some don't.   The PIC chips used are chosen for their specific purpose, not for whether they are supported by a third party's PIC programmer.  Since there is not room on the mainboard to include InCircuit programming capability, your programmer has to be able to do out of circuit programming.   If you want to use Microchip's InCircuit programmer you'll have to provide a configurable hardware device to accommodate the different programming pinouts of the different PICs. 

 

Mytek provides the firmware in the correct HEX format for most Microchip/clone PIC programmers on his website.  But using 3rd party PIC programmers to correctly program the chips is not something he can provide support for. 


By the time you invest the time and money for that, you have recreated what the Joy2PIC board and Atari based autobooting programming .atr does for you.   I think MacRorie offers already programmed PICS either with the kit he offers or as a standalone offer.  Check out his website.

 

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Yeah honestly programming the PICs is a pretty simple process with the JOY2PIC provided you have any other A8 to use. And if not, I know folks have built a simple breadboard adapter and ZIF socket and flashed the code that way. But by the time you spend that money and go to that effort, you could just buy or build a JOY2PIC anyway. *shrug*

 

EDIT: Also, it looks like a cheap PICkit3 programmer and ZIF adapter as sold together on Amazon can program both chips as well, but again by the time you buy those, you could have bought or built a JOY2PIC for the same or maybe even less. So it’s kind of a wash. 

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I love being able to program the PICs without pulling out a PC based programmer/burner.  All of mine were programmed using a 400/Joy2Pic combination.

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59 minutes ago, Dropcheck said:


By the time you invest the time and money for that, you have recreated what the Joy2PIC board and Atari based autobooting programming .atr does for you.   I think MacRorie offers already programmed PICS either with the kit he offers or as a standalone offer.  Check out his website.

 

I do indeed offer that service.   Let me know if interested.  Of course, the STICKPIC is the easiest way to do it.   Very simple.

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44 minutes ago, Brentarian said:

I love being able to program the PICs without pulling out a PC based programmer/burner.  All of mine were programmed using a 400/Joy2Pic combination.

I programmed the chips for my XEL with my 1200XL and the chips for my 1088XLD with my XEL. That pleases me greatly. :) 

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4 hours ago, MacRorie said:

I do indeed offer that service.   Let me know if interested.  Of course, the STICKPIC is the easiest way to do it.   Very simple.

 

YEAH. I hear you all on this.. I bought a Universal TL866 programmer than I could do GALs PICs Eproms up to 4mb - Supports over 4500 programmable chips.. and it cant do ANY in this project :(

 

James

 

Whats the cost of the Stickpic? either as kit or finished?

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3 hours ago, Bikerbob said:

 

Whats the cost of the Stickpic? either as kit or finished?

$35+postage assembled/tested

$25+postage DIY

Click me!

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Just to give everyone who contributed closure.. The U1mb board is sturdier than I thought.

 

Works just fine.

 

20190822_142727.thumb.jpg.b1a8e3ae520334fc41e3e01543ec287a.jpg

Now I just have to get a joy2pic to program the pic chips (that all my other programmers wont.. LOL) So.. the build is on hold until I can get some chips programmed.

 

James

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Nice - while you are waiting on the PIC programmer, you desperately need to rid yourself of the Ulrimare Serup BIOS on the U1MB.  It'sd a white Lotharek model, so you are guaranteed to have the proper JED.

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