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MotoRacer

Neo Geo Aes help

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So, I have my Neo Geo Aes which I haven't been able to do anything with.

 

When I turn it on with the neosd plugged in, I get a black screen with some light rolling static. Light buzzing through the speakers.

 

The thing is, I'm not sure if it's the system, or a bad connection, or what. I'm not sure if the AES is supposed to have a boot screen even without a cart, or what to expect.

 

What could be the issue? Any pictures I need to take, please tell me and I'll provide. Thank you!

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So, I have my Neo Geo Aes which I haven't been able to do anything with.

 

When I turn it on with the neosd plugged in, I get a black screen with some light rolling static. Light buzzing through the speakers.

 

The thing is, I'm not sure if it's the system, or a bad connection, or what. I'm not sure if the AES is supposed to have a boot screen even without a cart, or what to expect.

 

What could be the issue? Any pictures I need to take, please tell me and I'll provide. Thank you!

 

No boot screen, colors maybe if no cart is inserted, sorry, been a long time since I booted up my AES I play primarily on my Omega Entertainment Machine which runs MVS carts.

 

You didn't say how your AES is connected or to what (composite, RCA, S-VIDEO modded etc.) (CRT, HDTV, UHD etc).

 

So the only cart you have is the NeoSD flash cart? No regular AES carts to test with? Can't remember if you can access the memory card test/menu without a cart actually installed.

 

Sorry man, like I said I'm a little rusty when it comes to the AES these days.

 

The NeoSD cart is the AES version, correct? Not the MVS version? I only ask because they use the same AES cart shell for both the AES and MVS boards.

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SDcart is definitely AES version. Through composite on a CRT Trinitron. 120,000k something number unit with model 3 power adapter, which it's supposed to have.

 

I know there's supposed to be a boot screen without cart, now. Someone told me that. No boot screen without cart.

 

Forest green, blue and black when I spin the power adapter on the plug. No image. No sound.

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Being sent in for repair :(.

Hey Alex,

 

My apologies for not being in the discussion sooner since that I just saw it now. But looks like I came in too late. :(

 

Sorry that you have to send in your unit in for repair. However, I do have someone in mind that can help repair it. His name is Chris at mobiusstriptech. He's also a member on the forums here.

 

If you like, he can fix your unit for you. Chris is already doing two of my AES units and putting unibios chips in them as well. PM him, I'm sure he will assist you. Maybe you can ask him about your problem your having with the NeoSD :)

 

Here is the link to his profile. Hope this will help you bro. Tell him Anthony sent ya. He knows who I am. :-D

 

Anthony.

http://atariage.com/forums/user/62147-mobiusstriptech/

Edited by fdurso224

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Yeah the AES has a self diagnostic screen as mentioned above. 9/10 AES consoles I look at usually have a broken trace or 2 somewhere. The Neo Geo Diagnostic Bios by smkdan can also be a big help in narrowing down issues. Same with the Universe bios. It sounds like you are working with someone already to get it repaired. Good luck and do post what they find the issue to be.

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So, I got the system back from "repair".

 

Sigh.

 

With the "new" power cord he gave me, I get horrendous rolling static and audio static. With my old power cord that originally came with it, it works 90% of the time without issue.

The reason I say 90% of the time is, I'm realizing that there's a warm up period this thing needs to make it's audio not sound like static crap. It needs about 2-3 minutes before it goes away on it's own. Then it's fine. I think it's a warm up issue, because even if you turn it off and turn it back on immediately, it's fine. It's only on cold boots it does this.

 

When the audio goes to crap, you'll get light rolling static.

 

Is this a capacitor issue? What could be the problem?

 

Thank you.

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A warm-up period? Definitely capacitor related. Needs a recap. Could be audio opamp related but usually those behave in the opposite fashion, sound is fine from a cold start, then dies after a half hour, hour, etc.

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A warm-up period? Definitely capacitor related. Needs a recap. Could be audio opamp related but usually those behave in the opposite fashion, sound is fine from a cold start, then dies after a half hour, hour, etc.

 

Yeah this dies out after a few minutes. Damnit. I have no idea how to do that and I doubt this guy will repair this again for me.

 

fdurso, who's your repair guy. If anyone can recommend someone who isn't ungodly expensive and who is trustworthy, let me know. Thanks.

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Yeah this dies out after a few minutes. Damnit. I have no idea how to do that and I doubt this guy will repair this again for me.

 

fdurso, who's your repair guy. If anyone can recommend someone who isn't ungodly expensive and who is trustworthy, let me know. Thanks.

Hey Alex,

 

It's Atariage member mobiusstriptech. Here is the link to his profile to contact him bro.

http://atariage.com/forums/user/62147-mobiusstriptech/

 

mobius repaired two AES units I recently purchase off from a seller in Japan. He does great work at reasonable rates . Here's a rundown on what was done on them and pics of the two units. This will help build confidence and legitimacy on sending your AES unit over to him

 

Hope this helps ya bro. :)

 

Anthpony

 

mobiusstriptech

Chopper Commander

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Sent Wed May 2, 2018 9:04 PM

Sure thing Anthony.

 

Both units received full capacitor replacement, socketed Universe Bios chips, and general cleaning, like cleaning the cart connectors to ensure good contact.

 

The 3-6 AES had the vertical bar mod performed. This is the fix for removing vertical lines in RGB. It requires removing 3 traces from the bottom of the board. This was the unit that didn't need any special repairs and arrived functioning normally. Aside from dirty cart pins, it was in good shape.

 

The 3-3 AES had the RGB mod performed. This involves replacing the 100uf capacitors at the AV Out with 470uf capacitors and replacing the 68ohm resistors with 75ohm. This was the console that had the strange power issue where it would only work when held at an angle. There were actually multiple things I did with this board. I removed the Neo-D0 chip and cleaned up some capacitor fluid that was underneath. Then I reflowed a number of chips and components on the front part of the board. I also found some corroded traces near the cart slot, so I repaired those and added some solder to make a solid connection. In testing I removed the Z80 and socketed that as well. This was also the unit that had poor audio after I got it working, this was due to capacitors in the audio section of the board that had leaked. Replacing the capacitors corrected this.

 

That's about the extent of what was done. Most of the time was spent in diagnosis. Finding all of the damage on the 3-3 board to fix the power issue was the time consuming part.

 

 

 

post-12863-0-48990400-1525307634.png

Edited by fdurso224
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MotoRacer, have you tried another TV, or plugging them in another power socket as this may not be a AES issue

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MotoRacer, have you tried another TV, or plugging them in another power socket as this may not be a AES issue

 

I don't have any other tube tvs or tvs with composite input. However, yes, one of the first things I thought of was to try it with a different outlet. Same exact results. Hallway outlet 12 feet away.

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