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My homemade 5200 controller

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10 hours ago, DrVenkman said:

The short throw of the Sparkfun thumbstick is honestly very much like a D-pad already in 4-way games.

 

If you want to use a D-pad, the professionally-manufactured D-pad on the Genesis 3-button controller is way better than almost anything you'd be able to rig up yourself, and you can use one with one of Scott's Masterplay clone controllers, complete with 2-fire buttons.

 

 

The point of a d-pad is you can easily press left or right without accidentally pressing up or down.  Or vice versa.  The analog stick on these controllers is very difficult to do that with.

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37 minutes ago, the Goat said:

The point of a d-pad is you can easily press left or right without accidentally pressing up or down.  Or vice versa.  The analog stick on these controllers is very difficult to do that with.

I’ve built over 60 of these to sell for others and use them routinely. Your opinion differs greatly from mine.

 

That said, as I also pointed out, if you prefer a D-pad, use a Genesis 3-button controller or compatible and plug it into an inexpensive Masterplay clone. I helpfully linked resources for you to build one above. 

 

You’re welcome. 

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4 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

I’ve built over 60 of these to sell for others and use them routinely. Your opinion differs greatly from mine.

I built two of these controllers.  They are outstanding.  But they could be better.

Quote

That said, as I also pointed out, if you prefer a D-pad, use a Genesis 3-button controller or compatible and plug it into an inexpensive Masterplay clone. I helpfully linked resources for you to build one above.

I want a single controller with both analog and d-pad controls.

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24 minutes ago, the Goat said:

I want a single controller with both analog and d-pad controls.

You’re going to have to design it. Scott’s PCB does not have room for both and the circuit is analog in nature, not digital (D-pad) converted to analog needed by the 5200. 

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29 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

the circuit is analog in nature, not digital (D-pad) converted to analog needed by the 5200. 

No actually the controller uses digitally controlled potentiometers.  So it would be trivial to have the controller output a fixed value when pressing a direction on the d-pad.

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15 minutes ago, the Goat said:

No actually the controller uses digitally controlled potentiometers.  So it would be trivial to have the controller output a fixed value when pressing a direction on the d-pad.

No, actually it uses an analog thumbstick dual-axis potentiometer to start the signal chain, so really it’s an analog-digital-analog circuit. This is all well-documented in Scott’s blog post and throughout the thread. 

 

And once more, this particular PCB does not support a D-pad. Just use a Masterplay clone or design your own hybrid combination.

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3 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

No, actually it uses an analog thumbstick dual-axis potentiometer to start the signal chain, so really it’s an analog-digital-analog circuit. This is all well-documented in Scott’s blog post and throughout the thread. 

 

And once more, this particular PCB does not support a D-pad. Just use a Masterplay clone or design your own hybrid combination.

I'm not sure why you are being so obtuse.  Obviously the PCB would need to be redesigned to accommodate the d-pad.  Did you think I expected to just glue on a d-pad and it would magically work?

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Just now, the Goat said:

I'm not sure why you are being so obtuse.  Obviously the PCB would need to be redesigned to accommodate the d-pad.  Did you think I expected to just glue on a d-pad and it would magically work?

Then why are you posting in this thread instead of starting a new one to propose your design? 

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Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

Then why are you posting in this thread instead of starting a new one to propose your design? 

Because I was proposing a new feature being added to this design.

Edited by the Goat

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16 hours ago, the Goat said:

Because I was proposing a new feature being added to this design.

The microcontroller is already out of pins, effectively (there is the reset pin but there are a lot of gymnastics to go through in order to use it for data and still be able to program the chip and it would still only give you one direction).  So you'd need a bigger MC to wedge another four data signals into it and then update the FW so it can read the pad and tell the digital POTs what to do based on that.   And then decide how to code up which input wins between the analog stick and the d-pad in case both are activated at the same time.   Which brings up a less technical but maybe more important consideration which is that there are already 17 buttons and a 4-way stick on this thing.  Adding a four-way pad might put it over the amount of real estate that can be organized in an ergonomic way.

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On 7/21/2020 at 2:57 PM, MakerMatrix said:

I have enough PCBs and parts on hand to build about 25 of these.  I've had enough requests trickling in over the last few months that it's probably time to go ahead and get started on a short run of these.  And if you or a friend are handy with a soldering iron, you can always get the board from Scott and order the BOM off Digikey, et. al to DIY one.


   Would you please let us know when they’re available for purchase?

 

  Those are awesome. 🙂 

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I just got done assembling one and the analog stick will not work. I have in on the left side. The characters on screen (pac-man, berserk, etc.) automatically move to the left. The buttons work fine but the analog stick will not work. I tried rearranging the jumpers and it does not help. Maybe a bad analog stick?

 

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16 hours ago, Lan Di said:

I just got done assembling one and the analog stick will not work. I have in on the left side. The characters on screen (pac-man, berserk, etc.) automatically move to the left. The buttons work fine but the analog stick will not work. I tried rearranging the jumpers and it does not help. Maybe a bad analog stick?

 

I've built over 100 of these and never, ever run into a bad stick. Do you have a copy of Pete's Test Cartridge or the PAM SALT (diagnostic) cartridge? There are three possible problems that cause what you're seeing.

 

1) Marginal or bad solder joints on the (very!) small pads for the 0.1 uF capacitors that serve to effectively "amplify" the apparent range of the modern stick to meet what the 5200 POKEY circuit expects. If those caps aren't properly soldered, the stick won't register properly.

 

2) The POKEY Adjust resistor on your 5200 has drifted out of spec over time - this is more common than most people realize with machines pushing 38 years old. You do have to open the console to adjust it, but it's a very minor thing, much like adjusting the color potentiometer. You really shouldn't adjust it though without a way to measure the effects of your change, so if you have Pete's Test Cart or the PAM SALT cart, you should use them when making any adjustment, otherwise you're flying blind.

 

3) The digital pot chip might be out of spec - we ran into a surprisingly high percentage of these that would read low on one or both axis measurements and had to be replaced. 

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, DrVenkman said:

I've built over 100 of these and never, ever run into a bad stick. Do you have a copy of Pete's Test Cartridge or the PAM SALT (diagnostic) cartridge? There are three possible problems that cause what you're seeing.

 

1) Marginal or bad solder joints on the (very!) small pads for the 0.1 uF capacitors that serve to effectively "amplify" the apparent range of the modern stick to meet what the 5200 POKEY circuit expects. If those caps aren't properly soldered, the stick won't register properly.

 

2) The POKEY Adjust resistor on your 5200 has drifted out of spec over time - this is more common than most people realize with machines pushing 38 years old. You do have to open the console to adjust it, but it's a very minor thing, much like adjusting the color potentiometer. You really shouldn't adjust it though without a way to measure the effects of your change, so if you have Pete's Test Cart or the PAM SALT cart, you should use them when making any adjustment, otherwise you're flying blind.

 

3) The digital pot chip might be out of spec - we ran into a surprisingly high percentage of these that would read low on one or both axis measurements and had to be replaced. 

 

 

 

 

I think I might I have issue #3. My standard 5200 controllers and my Wico Command joysticks work just fine. The solder points on the homemade 5200 controller PCB are solid and not loose. I just ordered another chip. They are actually very inexpensive so it should not be an issue. I'll reply with the results as soon as I receive and install the other chip.

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