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My homemade 5200 controller

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He’s still adjusting the button design but showed me a WIP last night. The blue LEDS are for dramatic effect. Not sure yet if I’ll modify my boards to include them. Kinda depends on the current available from the controller port. :)

 

a86fdeead599a0c9f2bee20a169c6a09.jpg

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He’s still adjusting the button design but showed me a WIP last night. The blue LEDS are for dramatic effect. Not sure yet if I’ll modify my boards to include them. Kinda depends on the current available from the controller port. :)

 

a86fdeead599a0c9f2bee20a169c6a09.jpg

 

Nice but at this point I would just be happy with two cases for my right analogue stick board :)

post-38693-0-06426300-1550506324_thumb.jpg

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Nice but at this point I would just be happy with two cases for my right analogue stick board :)

 

My friend used my board (with the left-mounted stick) as the basis for the design. I spoke with him briefly tonight and he says so long as the button mounting is symmetrical around the middle of the board and keypad (which it appears to be), it should be no issue to make one opposite-sided. I have one bare board left around here but it's in with a bunch of my project stuff and don't have it handy to make measurements. Can anyone CONFIRM that the fire button pads are left-right symmetrical about the middle of the keypad layout? If so, I can confirm that to me friend.

 

Oh, and here's a finished board with black, opaque buttons. I won't be able to pick it up until I meet him for beers again in a couple weeks but I'm looking forward to it!

 

post-30400-0-51196200-1550539874_thumb.jpg

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My friend used my board (with the left-mounted stick) as the basis for the design. I spoke with him briefly tonight and he says so long as the button mounting is symmetrical around the middle of the board and keypad (which it appears to be), it should be no issue to make one opposite-sided. I have one bare board left around here but it's in with a bunch of my project stuff and don't have it handy to make measurements. Can anyone CONFIRM that the fire button pads are left-right symmetrical about the middle of the keypad layout? If so, I can confirm that to me friend.

 

Oh, and here's a finished board with black, opaque buttons. I won't be able to pick it up until I meet him for beers again in a couple weeks but I'm looking forward to it!

 

attachicon.gifSMBaker_Case.jpg

 

The thumbsticks are symmetrical to the center axis of the keypad layout. The fire buttons also appear to be symmetrical to the center axis of the keypad layout. If you take a picture of the solder side of your controller I can confirm if our fire button offsets (where the buttons are mounted) are identical as well.

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I'd love to see what one of those new controllers looks like after the sanding & acetone treatment followed by a paint job. I bet it would be mind blowing.

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He’s still adjusting the button design but showed me a WIP last night. The blue LEDS are for dramatic effect. Not sure yet if I’ll modify my boards to include them. Kinda depends on the current available from the controller port. :)

 

a86fdeead599a0c9f2bee20a169c6a09.jpg

The joystick looks nice!

 

The file for the 3D printed cases includes left and right joystick positions, for those who want to know.

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The joystick looks nice!

 

The file for the 3D printed cases includes left and right joystick positions, for those who want to know.

 

I'll pass along your compliments to my friend. :)

Just to be clear, he used your design as an inspiration but this new design he made for me is something he modeled up from scratch to better suit his own printers and the software he was familiar with. I think the overall shape is similar but I believe he's changed some of the internals, plus modeled brand new buttons to use his fancy new DLP printer.

 

I'm very much looking forward to getting together with him to buy him multiple beers in thanks so I can take these home to give them a serious playtest!

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I did not want to put Atari logo on my stuff to avoid patent/copyright trolls, if you know what I mean...

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i finished my first controller. not totally happy with the case print, but the thing works perfectly. Thanks to Scott for the design and animan for the stl case files.

 

 

post-26000-0-48233200-1551042113_thumb.png

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Use some 200 grid sand paper to smooth out the edges, and it should look good.

For prints with supports, try to play with support line width, spacing, Z distance etc. Sometimes try to orient the object 90 degrees, and see how the supports are built.

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I'll pass along your compliments to my friend. :)

Just to be clear, he used your design as an inspiration but this new design he made for me is something he modeled up from scratch to better suit his own printers and the software he was familiar with. I think the overall shape is similar but I believe he's changed some of the internals, plus modeled brand new buttons to use his fancy new DLP printer.

 

I'm very much looking forward to getting together with him to buy him multiple beers in thanks so I can take these home to give them a serious playtest!

 

Any updates from your friend? Thanks.

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Use some 200 grid sand paper to smooth out the edges, and it should look good.

For prints with supports, try to play with support line width, spacing, Z distance etc. Sometimes try to orient the object 90 degrees, and see how the supports are built.

 

 

my first printer (used for this controller) was an FLSUN kit (prusa i3 clone) that a friend recommended. i had no idea what i was doing, it took about 10 hours to assemble, and i melted the pfte tube in my experimentation. i have since re-assembled it with some enhanced parts i printed and it does pretty well.

 

i also have a monoprice mini v2 which was about $180 and i was printing PERFECT prints in 10 minutes. the cura profiles are simple and perfect. but the mini's bed is too small for this controller.

 

so even though i've been printing junk for about 6 months now, i still feel like a newb.

 

thanks for your advice and suggestions. i did increase the support z distance, and it makes removing supports much easier. I'm currently printing another top and we'll see how it turns out. the top takes about 7.5 hours with top up and all the supports. i think the bottom (printed same way) was slightly longer.

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Any updates from your friend? Thanks.

 

Not yet. We haven't been able to meet up and I've been buried with work and personal stuff for the past week or two.

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I remixed Animan's beautiful 3D case design to a smaller version I can print on my Monoprice Mini 120x120mm print bed. I kept all the main internals, buttons, screw holes. I also enlarged the cable connector hole so my larger DB15 connector will fit the opening.

 

Not nearly as nice as the original, but it does allow for quicker prints with smaller printers.

post-26000-0-76317700-1552216944_thumb.png

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I remixed Animan's beautiful 3D case design to a smaller version I can print on my Monoprice Mini 120x120mm print bed. I kept all the main internals, buttons, screw holes. I also enlarged the cable connector hole so my larger DB15 connector will fit the opening.

 

Not nearly as nice as the original, but it does allow for quicker prints with smaller printers.

 

If it fits and it works that is great. I think it looks ok. You are only gonna get so nice with a 3d printer.

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I remixed Animan's beautiful 3D case design to a smaller version I can print on my Monoprice Mini 120x120mm print bed. I kept all the main internals, buttons, screw holes. I also enlarged the cable connector hole so my larger DB15 connector will fit the opening.

 

Not nearly as nice as the original, but it does allow for quicker prints with smaller printers.

Close enough. But seriously not bad either.

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If it fits and it works that is great. I think it looks ok. You are only gonna get so nice with a 3d printer.

 

For now. Prices continue to drop. Look at the photos of the buttons my friend's DLP-based printer did for my controller (which I still need to meet up with him to pick up!!!). That kind of resolution will come to faster, larger printers with time, as well consumer-priced metal and ceramic printers, which are already being used industrially. Hell, there are at least three entirely different additive-manufacturing technologies being used to produce titanium aircraft parts alone!

 

So maybe not for a few more years, but very high-res resin printers will become very affordable for hobbyists.

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I have plenty of blank pcboards on hand now, so anyone needing a blank pcboard, just send me a PM and we can make arrangements. My usual price is $10/board plus shipping.

 

As a reminder, these are blank boards only, you still need to source all the components yourself.

 

Scott

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I have plenty of blank pcboards on hand now, so anyone needing a blank pcboard, just send me a PM and we can make arrangements. My usual price is $10/board plus shipping.

 

As a reminder, these are blank boards only, you still need to source all the components yourself.

 

Scott

 

And for reference, parts to build two boards is pretty cheap - about $25 from Digi-Key. WELL worth it! :)

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The joystick looks nice!

 

The file for the 3D printed cases includes left and right joystick positions, for those who want to know.

 

 

My friend used my board (with the left-mounted stick) as the basis for the design. I spoke with him briefly tonight and he says so long as the button mounting is symmetrical around the middle of the board and keypad (which it appears to be), it should be no issue to make one opposite-sided. I have one bare board left around here but it's in with a bunch of my project stuff and don't have it handy to make measurements. Can anyone CONFIRM that the fire button pads are left-right symmetrical about the middle of the keypad layout? If so, I can confirm that to me friend.

 

Oh, and here's a finished board with black, opaque buttons. I won't be able to pick it up until I meet him for beers again in a couple weeks but I'm looking forward to it!

 

attachicon.gifSMBaker_Case.jpg

 

Still interested if these cases become available but in the meantime my friend was able to print me up a set.

post-38693-0-64812400-1552413790_thumb.jpg

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The joystick looks nice!

 

The file for the 3D printed cases includes left and right joystick positions, for those who want to know.

 

Hi amiman99, I sent you a PM, thanks.

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Still interested if these cases become available but in the meantime my friend was able to print me up a set.

 

Those ones you pictured with the clear tops look pretty nice! :)

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Just chiming in to say thanks for this. I got mine built and working and immediately set my personal best for Gyruss in the HSC here. Way better for fast button mashing than the stocks. One thing, maybe it has been mentioned, I used the extension cable from Console5 and was having intermittent issues due to the pins being recessed in that cable. I just took a Dremel and cutoff the connector to the pins and it works great and stays on without need for screws or anything. Once again, thanks!


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Just chiming in to say thanks for this. I got mine built and working and immediately set my personal best for Gyruss in the HSC here. Way better for fast button mashing than the stocks. One thing, maybe it has been mentioned, I used the extension cable from Console5 and was having intermittent issues due to the pins being recessed in that cable. I just took a Dremel and cutoff the connector to the pins and it works great and stays on without need for screws or anything. Once again, thanks!

 

 

Hi, can you share a pic of your cable modification? thanks.

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