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Incognito - Now's your chance!

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16 hours ago, gelo29 said:

Accordingly to what?

Please, explain, where and how to set it properly? 

I'm not looking at an 810 right now, so i might not be exactly right, but in the back there is a small opening with two switches, one behind the other. Each has two positions, left and right. The different combinations will result in the drive being designated 1, 2, 3, or 4. If it is the only drive hooked up to the system, you want 1. if there are two drives(real or simulated), one has to be 1, and the other has to be two. I think there is a diagram engraved that explains the positions. Also, I don't know if this is your problem or not.

Edited by invisible kid

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Oh,

yes, I knew those basic settings and those were ok.

It turned out, that my 810 is just broken (damaged power board), that's why the computer didn't see the drive and there were no communication between them at all.

After changing the power board for 100% working, the 810 drive works like charm.

No special settings needed to be set in Incognito's BIOS menu (I thought, that this was the problem, that I messed something up in BIOS, but no).

Thanks for all Your suggestions. :)

One more thing: I've ordered and mounted Lotharek's Simple Stereo V2 board.

But I got strange clicks / noises, I write about it here:

Can it be the fault of Incognito board?

Are there any negative interactions between Incognito and Simple Stereo V2 board?

 

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1 minute ago, gelo29 said:

Oh,

yes, I knew those basic settings and those were ok.

It turned out, that my 810 is just broken (damaged power board), that's why the computer didn't see the drive and there were no communication between them at all.

After changing the power board for 100% working, the 810 drive works like charm.

No special settings needed to be set in Incognito's BIOS menu (I thought, that this was the problem, that I messed something up in BIOS, but no).

Thanks for all Your suggestions. :)

One more thing: I've ordered and mounted Lotharek's Simple Stereo V2 board.

But I got strange clicks / noises, I write about it here:

Can it be the fault of Incognito board?

Are there any negative interactions between Incognito and Simple Stereo V2 board?

 

Have you tried to ask Lotharek? he sold you both devices 

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12 hours ago, Jeffrey Worley said:

I think that Lotharek really thought the connectors could fairly be omitted and that the average consumer of this product would have ready access to the means and parts to add the thing.  It takes a fair amount of skill just to disassemble the 800 and put it back together correctly.  To install the Incognito is a skilled job, so the assumption that the skill to add the port is universal is not unreasonable.  I don't think he meant to cheat anyone and I don't personally feel cheated.  These are really high-quality devices lovingly made and I'm beside myself with glee over them.  I'll eventually stick a connector on there.  I have a reader for the roms, so I can just yank the eprom, put it in the reader, burn it how I like it, and put the rom back in the incognito.  That's the quickest way to un-brick one, trust me I know.

But without the connector, you can not do CPLD updates.  Granted this is a more rare update than simply changing the firmware, but no external burner will help in this case.

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47 minutes ago, gelo29 said:

Oh,

yes, I knew those basic settings and those were ok.

It turned out, that my 810 is just broken (damaged power board), that's why the computer didn't see the drive and there were no communication between them at all.

After changing the power board for 100% working, the 810 drive works like charm.

No special settings needed to be set in Incognito's BIOS menu (I thought, that this was the problem, that I messed something up in BIOS, but no).

Thanks for all Your suggestions. :)

One more thing: I've ordered and mounted Lotharek's Simple Stereo V2 board.

But I got strange clicks / noises, I write about it here:

Can it be the fault of Incognito board?

Are there any negative interactions between Incognito and Simple Stereo V2 board?

 

Sorry I did not respond in the other thread - I got super busy at work and forgot.  Listening to the file you posted, that sounds like normal (although much louder than normal) background noise from the Atari.  I tend to run all of my systems through a big receiver and they are all noisy.  Perhaps you could try making connections to the board with shorter or shielded wire?

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Having the JTAG connector present will not allow un-bricking of the board if no EPROM programmer is available. If you manage to screw up a ROM firmware update (difficult, but perfectly possible owing to the unforeseen resourcefulness of users), you'll need to pull the flash chip and program it externally regardless of whether you have a JTAG connector or not.

 

I wouldn't personally hold my breath waiting for more CPLD updates anyway (which require the JTAG connector); the main problem was the PBI IO RAM bug which was discovered years ago, and that's fixed now. The board looks incomplete to me without the JTAG connector, but unless one finds an unpopulated set of vias triggering, it's nothing to worry about until such time as some critical CPLD update materialises in the future.

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47 minutes ago, flashjazzcat said:

Having the JTAG connector present will not allow un-bricking of the board if no EPROM programmer is available. If you manage to screw up a ROM firmware update (difficult, but perfectly possible owing to the unforeseen resourcefulness of users), you'll need to pull the flash chip and program it externally regardless of whether you have a JTAG connector or not.

 

I wouldn't personally hold my breath waiting for more CPLD updates anyway (which require the JTAG connector); the main problem was the PBI IO RAM bug which was discovered years ago, and that's fixed now. The board looks incomplete to me without the JTAG connector, but unless one finds an unpopulated set of vias triggering, it's nothing to worry about until such time as some critical CPLD update materialises in the future.

I've DONE it.  By burning the U1MB rom onto the Incognito.  I know how dumb that is, but I did it.  Instant brick.  I have a chip writer though, so no biggie, but I felt like a fool.

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17 minutes ago, Jeffrey Worley said:

I've DONE it.  By burning the U1MB rom onto the Incognito.  I know how dumb that is, but I did it.  Instant brick.  I have a chip writer though, so no biggie, but I felt like a fool.

Hehe... yes: this is a perfect example of the boundless inventiveness I mentioned earlier. :) If I have time, I'll add a firmware signature check (with the option to override) to the 'whole ROM' flash. Unfortunately it's taken me all my time just to implement all the little firmware tweaks required to get the latest update ready. I spotted a corner case bug in the loader last night which resulted in duplicate FAT filenames in the Logical Drives menu if ATRs not all hosted in the same folder (or even on the same physical disk in the case of a dual-card XEL-CF setup) were rotated with CTRL+S. Fortunately - since menu items are indirectly referenced via a pointer table - 'rotating' pointer table entries fixed it.

 

Edited by flashjazzcat
clarity
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50 minutes ago, flashjazzcat said:

Hehe... yes: this is a perfect example of the boundless inventiveness I mentioned earlier. :) If I have time, I'll add a firmware signature check (with the option to override) to the 'whole ROM' flash. Unfortunately it's taken me all my time just to implement all the little firmware tweaks required to get the latest update ready. I spotted a corner case bug in the loader last night which resulted in duplicate FAT filenames in the Logical Drives menu if ATRs not all hosted in the same folder (or even on the same physical disk in the case of a dual-card XEL-CF setup) were rotated with CTRL+S. Fortunately - since menu items are indirectly referenced via a pointer table - 'rotating' pointer table entries fixed it.

 

Well, I probably woulda overridden it.  Maybe it should say "Not an U1MB you are bricking". or something equally explicit.

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12 minutes ago, Jeffrey Worley said:

Well, I probably woulda overridden it.  Maybe it should say "Not an U1MB you are bricking". or something equally explicit.

You can't just 'click through' the exiting firmware signature warnings when - say - flashing the main Incognito BIOS. It flatly refuses to flash anything but a valid Incognito firmware ROM. To override this, you have to uncheck Options->Require Signed ROMs every single time you start the program. I'm suggesting that you'd have to do the same when flashing a complete ROM whose main BIOS component didn't match the current hardware, which I assume will be quite sufficient on its own. If you go out of your way to override signature checks before flashing the wrong content, that'll be on you. ;)

Edited by flashjazzcat
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33 minutes ago, flashjazzcat said:

You can't just 'click through' the exiting firmware signature warnings when - say - flashing the main Incognito BIOS. It flatly refuses to flash anything but a valid Incognito firmware ROM. To override this, you have to uncheck Options->Require Signed ROMs every single time you start the program. I'm suggesting that you'd have to do the same when flashing a complete ROM whose main BIOS component didn't match the current hardware, which I assume will be quite sufficient on its own. If you go out of your way to override signature checks before flashing the wrong content, that'll be on you. ;)

I can attest that the checks that are there saved me when I misunderstood the instuctions on how the flashing software worked. So, it's good that it is there!

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56 minutes ago, toddtmw said:

I can attest that the checks that are there saved me when I misunderstood the instuctions on how the flashing software worked. So, it's good that it is there!

Believe me, when I'm flashing freshly compiled test versions to different platforms using real hardware again and again and again, I'm not absolutely immune to triggering an 'Invalid file signature' from time to time. :) It has saved me resorting to the EPROM programmer on several occasions.

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=> mimo:
Lotharek is very busy man, I asked him many questions , but his answers are either laconic or: ''read the manual, everything is there, why don't You read it first, I know You didn't even read it so I will not waste my time anymore'' etc...
So NO, no help from Lotharek…

=> Stephen:
I think maybe I have found the problem: my CPU board is very noisy (I've switched to other CPU board and there is much less background noise)...
Worth to try is to take A4 and BELL signal from the nearest possible point, near POKEY chip, but directly from Atari 800 mainboard, not form the CPU and GTIA pins.
Anyone knows where to take those signals from?

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12 minutes ago, gelo29 said:

Anyone knows where to take those signals from?

I don't have the motherboard in front of me, but looking at the schematic, you can get the Bell signal (S3) from R102; pick the side which has direct continuity to pin S of the CPU board socket. A4 you can get from pin C of either cart slot.

 

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17 minutes ago, gelo29 said:

=> mimo:
Lotharek is very busy man, I asked him many questions , but his answers are either laconic or: ''read the manual, everything is there, why don't You read it first, I know You didn't even read it so I will not waste my time anymore'' etc...
So NO, no help from Lotharek…
 

 

Please, quote especially Your questions and my asnwers HERE 

 

just for info :

 

I HAVE RECEIVED 32 mails concerning installation of stereo. 

 

AFTER I RECEIVE ANSWER:   REAL MAN DO NOT READ MANULS,  i gave up with support of any type

 

Grzegorz, przykro mi bardzo - JESTES KLAMCA !

Edited by lotharek
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=> flashjazzcat:

I'm not accusing anyone, absolutely not, just answering ''mimo'' user.

=> Lotharek:

very nice to see, that You have time to answer here, on this forum :)

So answer my previous quesiton, please:

- where to take A4 and BELL signal from the nearest possible point, near POKEY chip, but directly from Atari 800 mainboard, not form the CPU and GTIA pins?

Thank You! :) 

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4 minutes ago, gelo29 said:

I'm not accusing anyone, absolutely not, just answering ''mimo'' user.

Sorry: I forgot [humour] tags. I was just remarking on the fact a rebuttal appeared within fifteen minutes of your posting here. :)

4 minutes ago, gelo29 said:

where to take A4 and BELL signal from the nearest possible point, near POKEY chip, but directly from Atari 800 mainboard, not form the CPU and GTIA pins?

You can find the information above, which I found in five minutes. I don't know what we can conclude from this.

 

Edited by flashjazzcat
typo
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=> Lotharek,

please, chill out and don't call me LIAR on public forum...

Even in polish language, ok?

I've just quoted known sentence: ''the real man never reads the manual'', with '';)'' emot, but this was just for a joke.

I am very disappoited, that You didn't get it...

But, nevemind.

 

=> flashjazzcat:

thank You :) I didn't notice Your answer, I will try it for sure.

 

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=> flashjazzcat:

''A4 you can get from pin C of either cart slot.''

You mean, pin C of which card slot?

CPU board slot?

Simple Stereo card slot?

I didn't understand, please explain...

Thanks a lot! :)

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I tried something different for my ATR switch.

 

I installed an AT42QT1070 capacitive sensor board on my power PCB. The green wire in the photo leads to pin 3 of the ATR switch header on the Incognito (which, confusingly, is referred to as the "first" pin elsewhere in this thread). The white wire currently just leads outside of the case, and to swap disks I just move my hand next to the wire. The red/black wires are hooked up to 5V and GND on the power PCB.

 

I have plans to connect the white wire to copper tape that I have attached to a surface inside the A800 case. Then, to swap disks, I just touch the outside of the case corresponding to where the tape is. I have already tested that the board can detect my hand through the plastic. Easy.

 

Also, there is a green LED that lights up when the sensor is triggered. I can see that LED through the gaps around the keyboard/power key, etc. That provides some subtle visual confirmation that things are working.

 

ATR Switch.jpg

Edited by spspspsp
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There is nothing more elegant than Candle's suggestion of the modification of the light pipe. Did that on my (one of seven) 800s. It's subtle, integrated and 'looks the part'. Screw you, 'perfectionists/ preservationists'. You know who you are.

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12 minutes ago, adam242 said:

Screw you, 'perfectionists/ preservationists'. You know who you are.

To each his own. I‘ll take the same way but no need to be rude about it. 

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