+OLD CS1 Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 Electroplated gold trim? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 (edited) aluminum reacts strongly with everything, and getting the gold to strongly adhere is a challenge. TiN coating could probably be done as a batch job reasonably cheaply if you can get enough units to process, and had buyers lined up in advance. It looks quite nice, and is obscenely durable. I mean, look how lovely it is... its meant for metal cutting tools for cnc mills. the normal wear and tear of a computer case is childs play for the stuff. Edited September 24, 2019 by wierd_w 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GDMike Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 Oooh..ok..I'll take a couple, let me know when it's done. Hahaha.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 this place claims to be in CA, and gives free quotes. http://www.pvdamerica.com/get-a-free-quote/ if you can source a bunch of Ti aluminium shells, it never hurts to ask, especially when the quote is free. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GDMike Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 Absolutely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 (edited) Mia Culpa. Just sayin, if you want metallic gold colored metal objects, TiN is inexpensive AND durable. That is all. The real trick is getting your hands on the shells to have processed in the first place, which is what the thread is SUPPOSED to be about. (and if you dont want shiny gold, similar processes can give all kinds of pretty rainbow colors instead!) Edited September 24, 2019 by wierd_w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 9 hours ago, wierd_w said: Mia Culpa. Just sayin, if you want metallic gold colored metal objects, TiN is inexpensive AND durable. That is all. The real trick is getting your hands on the shells to have processed in the first place, which is what the thread is SUPPOSED to be about. (and if you dont want shiny gold, similar processes can give all kinds of pretty rainbow colors instead!) That metallic kind of job you see on cars where it is green from one angle and purple from another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 22 minutes ago, OLD CS1 said: That metallic kind of job you see on cars where it is green from one angle and purple from another. No, exactly what is on this cutlery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 24, 2019 Author Share Posted September 24, 2019 17 minutes ago, wierd_w said: No, exactly what is on this cutlery. I wonder if anyone has done that to a DeLorean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+OLD CS1 Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 18 minutes ago, wierd_w said: No, exactly what is on this cutlery. We have our Kickstarter fodder! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 (edited) Hmmm... Now I have additional thoughts... I remember seeing awhile back, about people wanting to know about ways to screen on new lettering onto the metal of these shells. I am reminded of the "laser toner + wintergreen oil" image transfer trick, and now I wonder if silicone powder impregnated parchment paper would work well as the intermediate transfer film. (It should not stick to the fuser in the printer, AND should release the fused toner easily...) I had this thought, because if you send shells in for Titanium coating services, you will have to re-apply logos and such. (the surface has to be completely clean before coating will stick, and that means removal of all old printing.) I dont know if my old laserjet 4V still works or not... I could cut some parchment paper and test I suppose. Edited September 24, 2019 by wierd_w 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 24, 2019 Author Share Posted September 24, 2019 Hmm, I wonder how toner would adhere to metal? Would one need to heat it up? Would that make it bleed? Would one spray a couple of thin layers of clear coat on it to make it permanent? Interesting to say the least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted September 24, 2019 Share Posted September 24, 2019 (edited) Ahhhh.. Those polymer clay kids... https://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=291004.0 They have tested the silicone based parchment paper idea. They suggest 100% transfer is possible onto the polymer clay using the parchment paper. (I suspected; since the silicone treatment will prevent the polypropylene (the bulk material of laser toner) from fusing to the paper fibers directly, and so it should just "peel" off the surface once misted with the solvent.) It works very well with polymer clay (and many plastics) because the toner fuses to the polymer material (being another solvent softening plastic itself!), but it should stick to metal and glass as well. It just might have a habit of flaking off. Perhaps a fabric craft mini-iron would be useful... Horrible youtube video of polymer clay transfer demo. Polymer clay contains a liquid plasticiser, which is what is softening the toner. (You dont have to apply anything, this is raw polymer clay; eg, Premo or Sculpey) In our case, we would want to use something like a hairspray pump bottle, and mist the solvent onto the image, turn it over onto the cleaned metal surface, press, iron with the mini-iron, then quickly rip the paper back. Should theoretically transfer near 100% of the image. Edited September 24, 2019 by wierd_w 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+FarmerPotato Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 10 hours ago, wierd_w said: Polymer clay contains a liquid plasticiser, which is what is softening the toner. (You dont have to apply anything, this is raw polymer clay; eg, Premo or Sculpey) In our case, we would want to use something like a hairspray pump bottle, and mist the solvent onto the image, turn it over onto the cleaned metal surface, press, iron with the mini-iron, then quickly rip the paper back. Should theoretically transfer near 100% of the image. You don't need to add solvent. We tried many materials at the Hackerspace for transfer onto copper PCB. The best we found turned out to be pages from Make Magazine. So have the laser printer print (with 100% dots, no toner saving mode) onto a sheet of magazine glossy. Then iron it onto your metal. There is a material called Cermark which we use in combination with a laser to mark metal. This leaves permanent marks; you can raster or vector. It costs, but the effect is as striking as anodizing. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twoodland Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 On 9/23/2019 at 4:50 PM, Tursi said: If I was buying a new trim, I'd want something more solid than the thin aluminum and a mirror finish. Someday I'll do that mirror finish... Maybe this vinyl wrap would work for that! I have a silver & black TI that I could use to experiment on if someone could volunteer to try creating the logos to put back on it. As Omega said, the hard part will be the grills. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tater1337 Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 On 9/23/2019 at 8:23 AM, wierd_w said: You have a hydro block press laying around? A 3axis mill to cut the two halves of the press dye? I got access to two 3 axis mills one being a leadwell MCV 550D 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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