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CollectorVision Phoenix Release Thread

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10 minutes ago, Swami said:

It takes 5V from a usb wall adapter. It is a switching power supply, but I've used it to power the Roller Controller. It plugs into the same OG ColecoVision power port as the standard OG ColecoVision power supply and the Roller Controller. I assume the Roller Controller just uses the 5V and ground pin of the power supply. Perhaps a direct connection would be more linear and perhaps that is less noisy than a switching power supply. A bit beyond me there.

I'm sure the Roller Controller can be powered via the ColUSB, as it's intended to be used, but I wouldn't attempt to start at the PS/2 port on the Phoenix, to the ColUSB power supply, (via a PS/2 to USB cable) to power a Roller Controller.  The ColUSB might try to draw too much power. 

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I am updating my two Phoenixes tonight, I've never done this before and I have a question: Is it best to install the latest SERVICE.PHX file first, or the COREXX.PHX files? Or maybe it doesn't matter in which order I update those components?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.  :)

 

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14 minutes ago, Pixelboy said:

I am updating my two Phoenixes tonight, I've never done this before and I have a question: Is it best to install the latest SERVICE.PHX file first, or the COREXX.PHX files? Or maybe it doesn't matter in which order I update those components?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.  :)

 

I don't believe it matters but I would do the service first as then you can make sure the newer cores took properly

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3 hours ago, zaphro72 said:

I don't believe it matters but I would do the service first as then you can make sure the newer cores took properly

This is correct. Updating the service first will allow you to see which version of the cores you have installed and to verify that the core has the right revision after updating.

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Updating all done, and I did the service first. Very nice.

 

By the way, I noticed that my name doesn't appear in the credits of the Phoenix's manual. Less nice...  :( 

 

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On 10/17/2020 at 9:06 AM, Bmack36 said:

Yes, that is what I meant, and yes it is possible. The power and ground can be pulled from the PS/2 as well.

 

 

The issue with Pin 9 and cables with nothing connected to it is a different issue. We are working on resolving that for the next batch.

Have you come to a conclusion about which power source (PS/2 or Expansion Port), if either, is preferred for powering the roller controller? BTW, Thank you for looking into this and seeking a remedy.

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I've been testing one of my Phoenixes with my collection of CV carts, and I noticed some issues while playing. Can anyone confirm these problems?

 

- Cabbage Patch Kids - Adventures in the Park : Game plays about twice as fast as it should.

 

- Fathom : At the opening skill select screen, moving the joystick in any direction increases the skill level number, but I cannot decrease it.

 

- Montezuma's Revenge : Jumping works about 10% of the time when I press the fire button.

 

- Rock 'n Bolt : When the guy emerges from the hole in the floor, his sprite is entirely visible. Probably because F18A is active by default, so not really a bug.  :)

 

- Zenji : Doesn't work on the Phoenix. Sometimes the title screen appears and I can hear some music, but it crashes quickly. Most of the time, I just get a black screen upon reset.

 

I've tested just over 20 carts so far. It's kind of a drag to have to press the reset button every time I insert a new cart and turn the power on, but the system works fine otherwise. I love the nice, crisp image.  :D

 

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4 minutes ago, Pixelboy said:

 

 

I've tested just over 20 carts so far. It's kind of a drag to have to press the reset button every time I insert a new cart and turn the power on, but the system works fine otherwise. I love the nice, crisp image.  :D

 

Does that work?  I've been unplugging the HDMI cord every time.

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33 minutes ago, Pixelboy said:

I've been testing one of my Phoenixes with my collection of CV carts, and I noticed some issues while playing. Can anyone confirm these problems?

 

- Cabbage Patch Kids - Adventures in the Park : Game plays about twice as fast as it should.

 

- Fathom : At the opening skill select screen, moving the joystick in any direction increases the skill level number, but I cannot decrease it.

 

- Montezuma's Revenge : Jumping works about 10% of the time when I press the fire button.

 

- Rock 'n Bolt : When the guy emerges from the hole in the floor, his sprite is entirely visible. Probably because F18A is active by default, so not really a bug.  :)

 

- Zenji : Doesn't work on the Phoenix. Sometimes the title screen appears and I can hear some music, but it crashes quickly. Most of the time, I just get a black screen upon reset.

 

I've tested just over 20 carts so far. It's kind of a drag to have to press the reset button every time I insert a new cart and turn the power on, but the system works fine otherwise. I love the nice, crisp image.  :D

 

Are the issues the same when run from the sd card?

 

What kind of controller are you using. The speed of movement in CPK is affected by the spinner input. If you use a SAC and spin the spinner the character will move super fast while it is spinning. If you are using a custom controller that has a pin 9 wire without anything connected to it, it can cause spurious spinner inputs affecting speed.

 

I don't see any missed jumps in  Montezuma's with the snes or standard controllers when run from sd card.

 

If you hold down # after the core loads with a cartridge in the slot, it will take you to a menu where you can turn off/on the sprite flickering and scanlines. This is only necessary when playing from carts. These options are available on the sd card menu as well.

 

Zenji loads and plays fine from the SD card, does that work on your system or does it just mess up from the cart.

 

For Fathom, that is the way it works on a standard system as well.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Bmack36 said:

Are the issues the same when run from the sd card?

 

What kind of controller are you using. The speed of movement in CPK is affected by the spinner input. If you use a SAC and spin the spinner the character will move super fast while it is spinning. If you are using a custom controller that has a pin 9 wire without anything connected to it, it can cause spurious spinner inputs affecting speed.

 

I don't see any missed jumps in  Montezuma's with the snes or standard controllers when run from sd card.

 

If you hold down # after the core loads with a cartridge in the slot, it will take you to a menu where you can turn off/on the sprite flickering and scanlines. This is only necessary when playing from carts. These options are available on the sd card menu as well.

 

Zenji loads and plays fine from the SD card, does that work on your system or does it just mess up from the cart.

 

For Fathom, that is the way it works on a standard system as well.

Tried Cabbage Patch Kids with a different controller, and it works fine, so the custom controller I'm using apparently has an unconnected pin 9. This causes trouble with Zenji as well, because it plays fine with a different controller (both from cart and SD card). Montezuma also seems to be allergic to my custom controller. The jumping works fine with other controllers.

 

Fathom seems to behave "normally", as the behavior's the same with blueMSX. I could swear I could make the skill level number go up and down when I played this game as a kid...

 

I'll keep testing over the next few days. Thanks for your assistance!  :)

 

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16 hours ago, Pixelboy said:

Tried Cabbage Patch Kids with a different controller, and it works fine, so the custom controller I'm using apparently has an unconnected pin 9. This causes trouble with Zenji as well, because it plays fine with a different controller (both from cart and SD card). Montezuma also seems to be allergic to my custom controller. The jumping works fine with other controllers.

 

Fathom seems to behave "normally", as the behavior's the same with blueMSX. I could swear I could make the skill level number go up and down when I played this game as a kid...

 

I'll keep testing over the next few days. Thanks for your assistance!  :)

 

I believe the problem with custom controllers is that pin 9 is connected on the controller and it shouldn't be unless the controller has the super action spinner

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36 minutes ago, zaphro72 said:

I believe the problem with custom controllers is that pin 9 is connected on the controller and it shouldn't be unless the controller has the super action spinner

Early standard CV controllers also have pin 9 connected at the DB9.

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1 hour ago, Ikrananka said:

Early standard CV controllers also have pin 9 connected at the DB9.

Did I describe the issue correctly though that it is the DB9 pin being connected that is the issue that is giving the phoenix problems, or is it something else to do with it?

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1 hour ago, zaphro72 said:

Did I describe the issue correctly though that it is the DB9 pin being connected that is the issue that is giving the phoenix problems, or is it something else to do with it?

My understanding is that controllers that have a wire running from the controller to the DB9 connector are an issue.  Even if the wire isn't electrically connected within the controller, the wire itself creates an antenna effect which creates spurious reading on the Phoenix which are interpreted as occasional spinner inputs.  If you can see a female pin in position 9 in your DB9 then you will likely experience the issue.  If the hole in position 9 of your DB9 appears to be empty then you shouldn't have an issue with that controller.

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On 10/21/2020 at 5:24 PM, Ikrananka said:

My understanding is that controllers that have a wire running from the controller to the DB9 connector are an issue.  Even if the wire isn't electrically connected within the controller, the wire itself creates an antenna effect which creates spurious reading on the Phoenix which are interpreted as occasional spinner inputs.  If you can see a female pin in position 9 in your DB9 then you will likely experience the issue.  If the hole in position 9 of your DB9 appears to be empty then you shouldn't have an issue with that controller.

Can you tell me what issues still remain with the pin 9 wired?

 

I just tried Zenji and Montazuma's Revenge with the little switched pass-through I found connected to my Edladdin SAC+ and it worked properly with switch 9 off. Telebunny had problems with switch 9 on, but worked with switch 9 off. I did have some issue on getting the keypad to work to select the skill level, but after some fiddling it worked, so not sure what that was. May be some carry over time after going from pin 9 on and off. Road Fighter also worked well.

 

One note: You will need some kind of slight extension to the port or have to saw off a small part of the left corner of the switched pass-through with a steak knife or something, as it sticks out enough to butt with an outcropping of the molding to the left of the control port. The switched pass-through extends far enough into the controller port to work, but not far enough to be really snug, which is a common problem with the DB9 breakout boards, but is fine if you don't jostle the console or pass-through.

 

2nd note: I carefully, gently used my smallest jewelers flat screwdriver to pry the edges of the metal shield around the connector out a bit, which gave a tighter fit. Also, had to remove the two left rubber feet on the controller 2 switched pass-through so they could overlap slightly to fit side-by-side. I put the extra feet under the others, since it hovers in the air otherwise, but you could also use a thin spacer. However ... if you're good at making your own connectors using a Genesis/Atari cable, being sure to find one that has wires for lines 1-6 and 8, that might be much cheaper and less bulky and the molded connector should fit snugger, at least on the end going into the console. I thought I'd give this switched pass-through a try, though, for the more intrepid and the in-built switch is handy, although, it still took a bit of mucking around to make it fit and fit stable.

 

Edit: Telebunny issue was with switch on the Edladdin SAC+ needing to be on, Road Fighter same (needs to be on).

 

note 3: the thing I dislike about working with the Atari/ Genesis extension cords is that the wires are so thin and so is the plastic sheath around each wire so they tend to crack and break when exposed. I wish they made standard break out boards with the molded extended connector tips or at least longer metal clad ones. 

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on the top is the power adapter for roller controller or driving module using PS/2 socket, on bottom is the same using the back expansion port and in the middle are the two switchable pass-throughs to give you an idea of their (large) size. Both power sources tested with driving module and work. Waiting on Adam adapter for the Roller Controller tests. The 2.1/5.5 barrel socket go to one of those battery replacement adapters for C batteries.

 

 

image1 (1).jpeg

 

The pass-throughs are no larger than a male and female breakout end-to-end though. You could also get a M/F DB9 adapter, crack it open, scratch the pin 9 trace and reseal it for $5 each (not tried):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Monoprice-DB9-M-F-Null-Modem-Adapter/

 

or double your purposing by doing it to one of these datashield esd protectors (tried and works):

Tripp Lite Datashield Serial In-Line

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006B81G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iv-KFb3S2PDAE

 

 

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Okay. I got the Adam power adapter and finished the expansion port and ps/2 power adapters for the Roller Controller and can confirm that both methods solved the warping issue with the Roller Controller. BTW, I ran across some confusing information for the Adam power adapter pinout, so, for the DB9 plug you use with it, pin 5 is ground and pin 3 is +5V. I used this female for the connector into the Adam male DB9 that has the pins.

image.jpeg.30dc2b3ab16b89913f4d336de3d49ee1.jpeg

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On 10/23/2020 at 11:25 PM, Swami said:

 You could also get a M/F DB9 adapter, crack it open, scratch the pin 9 trace and reseal it for $5 each (not tried):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Monoprice-DB9-M-F-Null-Modem-Adapter/

 

 

 

Null modem adaptors won't work. They switch some pins around internally to be able to connect two DTE devices (usually computers/terminals) directly without a DCE device (like a modem) in between. You need something that passes the signal straight through. 

Edited by nick3092
Typo

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1 minute ago, nick3092 said:

Null modem adaptors won't work. They some switch pins around internally to be able to connect two DTE devices (usually computers/terminals) directly without a DCE device (like a modem) in between. You need to something that passes the signal straight through. 

Okay. Thanks. I ordered the one mentioned. I believe I’ve seen others called extenders. I’ll check around. I have confirmed it works with the DataShield, but they are fairly expensive, although they add esd protection, I understand the Phoenix already has this. 

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I wonder if you could get away with using one of each of these gender changers back to back, and break off pin 9 on the M/M one? Unfortunately there isn't much of a use case for a slim M/F DB9 connector that isn't null. So I don't think any exist.
 

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Slimline-Serial-Gender-Changer/dp/B00066HOXY
 

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Serial-Gender-Changer-Coupler/dp/B00005111M

 

Alternatively, if you crack open that null modem and it's wired instead of a PCB, you could rewire it. But that might be difficult. Here is a typical 9 pin null modem pinout if you want to see what pins are crossed. Ironically, this shows 9 not connected.

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Null_modem#/media/File%3AD9_Null_Modem_Wiring.png

Edited by nick3092
Added crossover link

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27 minutes ago, nick3092 said:

Null modem adaptors won't work. They some switch pins around internally to be able to connect two DTE devices (usually computers/terminals) directly without a DCE device (like a modem) in between. You need to something that passes the signal straight through. 

Okay. Thanks. I ordered the one mentioned. I believe I’ve seen others called extenders. I’ll check around. I have confirmed it works with the DataShield, but they are fairly expensive, although they add esd protection, I understand the Phoenix already has this. 

 

Maybe be one of these tiny ones would work if you had needle nose pliers to twist off pin 9. Your Cable Store Serial Port 9 Pin Male/Female Adapter DB9 RS232 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CX9G2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DBcMFb0S94K60

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2 minutes ago, Swami said:

Okay. Thanks. I ordered the one mentioned. I believe I’ve seen others called extenders. I’ll check around. I have confirmed it works with the DataShield, but they are fairly expensive, although they add esd protection, I understand the Phoenix already has this. 

 

Maybe be one of these tiny ones would work if you had needle nose pliers to twist off pin 9. Your Cable Store Serial Port 9 Pin Male/Female Adapter DB9 RS232 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CX9G2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DBcMFb0S94K60

Ah, so they do make them. That's more or less what I was suggesting with the back to back converters, just all in one. Nice. 

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6 hours ago, nick3092 said:

Ah, so they do make them. That's more or less what I was suggesting with the back to back converters, just all in one. Nice. 

I like the idea of something that would save wear and tear on the ports, which is what got me interested in the switched pass through. I had a bunch of the Data Shield devices lying around for my OG ColecoVisions, which have fragile controller chips. Just never liked the idea of using two of these large adapters per port, but these latest tiny ones are small enough you could use one to save wear on the port and a second to deactivate pin 9. They do come in a 5 pack for 16 bucks. One reviewer describes them as the worlds shortest extension cable. 

 

You can can also get a 5 pack on eBay from Hong Kong for $5.50 if you don’t mind waiting six weeks. 

 

Just make sure to remove pin 9 and not pin 6. 💡

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23 minutes ago, nick3092 said:

I wonder if you could get away with using one of each of these gender changers back to back, and break off pin 9 on the M/M one? Unfortunately there isn't much of a use case for a slim M/F DB9 connector that isn't null. So I don't think any exist.
 

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Slimline-Serial-Gender-Changer/dp/B00066HOXY
 

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Serial-Gender-Changer-Coupler/dp/B00005111M

 

Alternatively, if you crack open that null modem and it's wired instead of a PCB, you could rewire it. But that might be difficult. Here is a typical 9 pin null modem pinout if you want to see what pins are crossed. Ironically, this shows 9 not connected.

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Null_modem#/media/File%3AD9_Null_Modem_Wiring.png

Yeah, looks like that null adapter just might find its way to the trash can. At least it was only $5. 

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I just made up a set of short custom extensions/adapters, with Pins/Wires #7 & #9, not connected:

 

C6DUKi.png

 

 

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